It seemed like it was going to take forever to make some progress on my rust repair. After spending the entire winter locating parts, grinding, cuting, painting, and learning to weld, I was finally ready to take the plunge....

Also thanks to everyone on the board, I would have never had enough confidence to tackle this without this site!!!

BTW: I must be getting addicted to the "914 lifestyle" as I had withdrawal when the site was down.

Fist Pic : The Rust

Where the motor mount was.

Here we go.

The repair piece from a parts car.

Clamped.

Welded (no making fun)

The patch for the frame under the engine mount.

Patch welded in.

This part is next, after a little clean up in the welds.

Looks great, keep the pictures coming. I'm getting ready to start cutting some rust out of mine and these pictures help me to see what I may be getting into.

Whats with the electrical cable coming out of the heater tube??

Geoff

looks good

These cables in the heater tubes are for a front trunk mounted battery and some aux gauges. I am moving them to the center tunnel when I replace the rear floorpan.

Motor Mount is in, I can practially hear the engine running (as soon as I put in a new floor pan )

You don't need a floor pan to run the engine!!!


Seriously, the work looks great. It's good to see another one NOT get crushed or shredded due to rust!

Thumbs up Dude
You don't need to be an expert to see that you put some serious good work into you car. gotta love the before and after pics
Gotta send us more pics dude
WBR
Joe

Made some more progress

Before:

After:

Outer Firewall back in:

did you spray plenty of "metal-ready" inside that long before you closed it up?
looked like there was quite some surface rust in there.
i'd hate to see it rust from the inside out again ...

nice work!
Andy

Yep, I metal readied the hell out of it it. Then I used a spray gun to "Blow" some industrial rusty metal paint (I got it at the local tractor / farm supply store and it is nasty stuff used to paint old rusty tractors with, and yes there are lots of those in KY) down the long till it came out the front.

I opted not to use POR-15 in this scenario because I had no way properly prepare the surface and with the experience I've had with POR-15 it really doesn't work great unless the surface gets the proper prep.

Looks like you're making great progress. We need to get together for some shop talk soon. BTW, I saw a silver teener at Stuttgart on Leestown Rd. last week- must be a new car in the area!

Hello
I just spoke with the dist of Por15, for almost 2 hours.
For once a distributor that doesn't live in CA
I toured his warehouse and blabbed.
What kind of issues did you have, my tub gets a coat tomorow. One thing he was really explaning to me was that the top coat needs to be applyed between 4-5 hours after shooting Por15, if not you need an etcher, for after 24 hours of drying.
I have the degreaser, prep, Por15, and an etcher.
Again nice job
Cheers Joe

Well, with POR-15 I've noticed that the prep is everything. If you don't have the part really, really clean from grease or water, it won't stick and will kinda will scrape off pretty easily. Also it seems to stick better on a rough surface. The way I did it with the best results are...

1) Scrape / Sand/ Grind / Wire brush the part off till any loose material and ALL old paint is removed. (Leaving some surface rust is fine)
2) Clean the part with a degreaser ( I use simple green)
3) Rinse clean with water
4) Apply the POR-15 Metal Ready, let it stand on there about 30 minutes.
5) Rinse clean with water (It should leave a white zinc coating on the metal)
6) Allow to COMPLETELY dry (I mean NO water)
7) Paint on the POR-15

The finish on the parts I have done this way seem really durable. Any other way and the finish seems less than securely attached.

I have not topcoated anything yet, but that is interesting about the etcher. I have noticed it leaves a pretty smooth glossy finish. I wonder if etching primer will work.

WOW! you have done imipressive work. i see myself referring to this thread at some future date...

"him, my name is shane, and i have rust nightmares..."

Jamie, Another teener, cool. Including yours and mine there are only 4 I know about in this area (One of them yellow I've only seen). I had not seen a silver one. My wife is getting ready to have baby #2 so I am little busy getting the house ready, otherwise I would have already hooked up with you.

red914, I know how you feel I was intimidated by the rust at first too. Now I think it is just annoying. You cant ignore it, but you can it.

Ok I made some more progress this weekend. I got the old floorpan out, here are the removed bits...

The new pan...

Zee Hole...

Zee other hole...

Who wants to see down my tunnel?

The firewall side of the tunnel...

Up the firewall on the driver's side...

Broken clutch tube support about half way down the tunnel...

Broken tube at the firewall...

Look, I made some cash while tearing out the floor...10 cents

A 1975 and 1980 Nickel, and some strange amulet.

Forgot the pic.

Why you should always wear your safety gear. This is the safety face shield I wear, and that is a small sliver of metal stuck in it. Am I posting too many pics?

QUOTE

cdmcse   Posted on Feb 27 2005, 09:55 PM Why you should always wear your safety gear. This is the safety face shield I wear, and that is a small sliver of metal stuck in it. Am I posting too many pics?

Wow, that would have really messed up your eye.

Never too many pics, NEVER!

I welded all the clutch tube breakage, then I added this extra re-enforcement to the center clutch tube bracket. That should hold it.

New metal fuel lines secured to the center of the tunnel.

Fuel Tank end

Firewall End.

POR-15 Applied. Is there anything else I should do in the tunnel before I close it up?

I see light at the end of your tunnel
great job!

i keep thinking i should use some metal lines for the tank...hm. I dont really want to get into that though. 3m makes some spray in rust preventative stuff for enclosed areas, i sprayed the crap out of mine before i welded it up, then sprayed back the other direction from the hole in the interior under the consule.....Next one i build im dipping the whole car in rubber or something.

Metal lines were easy. I got two 60" 3/8 "easy-bend" brake lines and the fittings to convert the ends to hose barbs at NAPA for about $30. I had to drill larger holes in the rear firewall for the connectors to slide through. It took me less than 1 hour to install them (Of course half of my tunnel was already open)

Looks like the rust on my -6 #269.... Not Pretty.


My rust or ation thread
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=...2&t=5574&hl=269



I would change one thing though... Go from hose barbs to -4 or -6 AN hydrauilic fittings. More expensive than barbs and clamps, but will last a lifetime.....

Only want to fix my baby once....

best of luck

mr914, If you are ready to get started on the repair I would recommend you you start a thread on here with some pics. Even if noone else here cares I find it really motivating to make progress so I can post some pics. Maybe I am just strange

I hope to be able to afford AN hardware someday