Veekry

Thanks for posting this.

Very graphic....

I also was given a small lathe, old Logan 10x24. and I have very little metal working experience. I have made a couple small parts and am very careful when using it.
But these pictures will be in my mind anytime I use it from now on....

grab a chunk of broom stick. make a contoured handle. pencil out a simple handle with some steps and dia changes. them try to make the wood look like your picture. my son just gave me a lathe. my first real project was to turn down the ID of a steering hub adapter. im having fun with it. this thread is awesome. thanks for the guidance

Click to view attachment

The horror technique was used on us in our teen years and effectively shocked us into a safety mode around machine tools.
The instructor was a WW2 vet of military discipline,the values imparted by strict rules of operation.
It is true some people have no business messing with them,at all.Case in point,a new guy tried to off himself twice in a few days.
Untrained,unwary and ignorant of the first premises of self preservation,he was dismissed with a recommendation to a trade school.
A shop coat caught in the lead screw of the lathe,panicked,screamed and was saved by me when I shut the spindle off.
Next day,'forgot'to clamp the barfeeder and had the turret lathe hopping off the floor,he froze.
Herbert No9,made in England,30-60's.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alfred_Herbert_(company)

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We had a cast lathe chuck failure on a machine a little bit bigger than that one a few years ago, the part weighed a few hundred pounds which wasn't the problem , it was too high of an RPM for a cast chuck! Luckily no injuries. The forged steel replacement chuck cost over $15,000.

Joe,

Hurry up and make some chips, show off your work!

Arrgh. I hate you. But, as with most gifts, you probably earned it so enjoy. I'm just envious as shit. Did that little red Kennedy KK19 hip box come with it? It's about the same age. Have fun with it, Joe.

Machine shop guys always have impressive stories. And there's 101 ways to get zinged. Was in a shop with an impressively large shaper, bed over 30ft. long. Me and a new guy were watching that head slide towards us, curling off .1 thk steel corkscrew. It hit the ground right at our feet and sounded as big as a garage door spring. He bent down to pick it up and I hip-checked him. He was affronted for a moment, but then we watched it slowly turn that same blue as a motorcycle exhaust pipe.

So, I had to replace the front wheel bearings on the right side of my Vanagon today.

The rotor looked pretty crappy, so I took the opportunity to put it in the lathe.

Success! It was the first time I used the power feed and it came out pretty well.

I'm going to want a nicer finish in the future, but definitely good enough for a brake rotor.


My oldest boy (14) seemed unimpressed as I was smiling with the lathe running. I told him he didn't understand the significance of what he was seeing.

There is something therapeutic when turning the handles on a manual lathe or mill when making chips, I don't get the same satisfaction when running the CNC...


Don't laugh.....I might have some VCR tapes of Rudy Kouhoupt that cover lathe operation and tool grinding...if you still have a player and I can find them you can have them for the cost of shipping.

http://bay-com.com/Rudy_Kouhoupt.php
http://bay-com.com/cid/1-1/Machining_lathe...machinists.html

Instructional DVDs to rent:

https://smartflix.com/store/author/23/Rudy-Kouhoupt

Btw,
I was joking about making something square.

Love this place.

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Now you too can make your own stroker crankshaft!

Go ahead,make your hay.
Note how spic n span his shop is.
A cap for the lathe top should have railings,to keep tee wrenches there.
Long stringy chips are bad,dangerous,and a sign of wrong.
Never mess with those chips while rotating!
Never.

I'll be turning that rotor again......

Totally lame idea. It'll never work.

I'm sort of a pulley snob.

Lighten a flywheel

Okay, soon.

Right now I'm thinking, if I lighten a flywheel like I "lightened" that brake rotor, I might damage an engine....

Lol, bet it was fun though.

Turning a brake rotor on an engine lathe is difficult at best in keeping both sides parallel. The problem is rotors are too damn big to get your cutter to both sides without unmounting the rotor and reversing it. Holding it on a regular chuck for both sides hasn't worked for me without a lot of set-up time with a dial indicator.

Best way is to use a 'faceplate', not a chuck to start.
Bolt the rotor to the faceplate using the flat surface where the car rim mounts. that way you are turning the back of the rotor parallel to the axis the rim spins on. .
Then reverse the rotor, mount the rotor surface you just cut to the faceplate. now turn the opposite side of the rotor. .
Theoretically both sides will be parallel and consistent with the axis of the wheel.

I kinda just skimmed through this post but with that said, I would also suggest investing in quality measurement tools. 1" micrometers and nice 6" calipers from mitituyo or starret can be had for reasonable prices. and like others have said checking the runout of the spindle and chuck assembly is important if you plan on your parts being true. A dial indicator with a magnetic mount should get you running true in no time. And as many others have said safety is most important.

Several factors in the machining of shafts.
1)The spindle rotates about it's center within 0.00005"/0.00008",under load.(the bearings are good)
2)The spindle is parallel to the bed in both axis.
3)The carriage moves true to the bed.
4)The cross feed saddle is square to the spindle.
5)The clearance gibs are adjusted to minimums.

A tuned instrument is needed to make a correct shaft,adjust the machine to do so.
Speeds and feeds for horsepower are the required knowledge.
Keep a table poster above the lathe for reference,noting the cutting(sfm) (Surface Feet per Minute)speeds.
A turned part in hardened metal can be finished to fine tolerances with these versatile attachments.
http://www.micro-machine-shop.com/tool_post_grinder.htm
http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCLatheTPGrinder.htm
https://www.google.ca/#q=porsche+904+main+shaft
https://www.google.ca/search?q=spherical+tu...RFdCJEQ_AUIBigB
Learn something new every day,continuous learning.
Turning costs money,never turn for free.


(edit:01/14/16)
Quote:post#9
toolguy
....If not set up properly, no matter what you do, your finished project will have taper and be out of square and off center.

Correctomundo.
Pretty basic geometry,the setting up and fettling of the machinetool defines the results possible.
Direct measurement and trial cuts are required,then your efforts will satisfy you and 'customers'.
Nowadays,the price of indexable carbide tooling makes their use standard,tungsten and cobalt hss is perfect for delrin and bronze.
The manual and drawings that came with the machine makes the repair and maintenance of it painless.
The design of the headstock bearing may allow refurbishment,grinding a tighter clearance on a spacer ring.
Make,year,model,ser# and the fx# of the manufacturer is handy.
Never do repair work on the machine while under power,lockout rules apply.
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Excellent! These are points I had already decided would be necessary to perform this operation correctly next time.

I ordered another rotor, but I intend to "fix" this one until the three faces are parallel.

I have instruments and holders on order. First, I'm going to make sure the face of the chuck turns true and then proceed from there. I had planned to take the jaws out of the chuck and hold the wheel-face of the rotor against the chuck with the tail stock and a live center.

When I get the instruments, I'll measure the magnitude of my errors and report them for your entertainment. I can tell you the Vanagon is "interesting" to drive right now.

You might want to consider building a jig or faceplate that has lots of threaded holes in it to accomidate all the cars you work on, then you can reuse the jig for a few years

I wouldn't worry too much - the projects have a way of finding you. One of the most useful tools in the shop. For example, I used mine to copy some of your ideas.

I have a few Popular Mechanics year book of projects dated from around 1940. I found them when my Dad passed away last year. They kind of just assume that any guy is gonna have a metal lathe. One article is how to build a complete gasoline engine from scratch - a small motor for a model something.

They also assume that you have a plentiful supply of Model Ts, from which they make an astonishing number of things.

My Dad saved his allowance and bought a Craftsman wood lathe in the 1930s. It is a good as the day it was bought. Plan on a lot of projects

Useful attachment to mill splines on axleshafts.
A multipurpose mill/turn machine.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=lathe+millin...AJfnkmXvAX6M%3A

Neat.

This is NOT a beginner project and I'm not recommending to anyone, but I found it very educational in terms of what good custom lathe work looks like.
http://www.the-long-family.com/making_a_muzzle_brake.htm

Heck, that should be labeled NSFC...Not Safe For Californians , hahaha

Joe, when you get bored with it, convert it to CNC, I'm in the planning stages with my old Sebastian lathe to convert it... Motion Controller - KFLOP

https://forum.linuxcnc.org/forum/index/
Proprietary boards and motors have their place in manufacturing,and there are a number of heavy machine companies doing business.
http://www.dipaolocnc.com/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9IAHUy9A4U4
Very expensive though,you would have to have the work to pay for it.

The beauty of the Emc2,now LinuxCNC is that the development costs were borne by http://www.nist.gov/
to circumvent the bottleneck of the manufacturer's constraints.
A fella in Wichita converted a heavy 1960's 20hp Cincinnati 5X Mill to do aerospace,cheaply with great success,cheeply.
Some sweat equity is also a prerequisite,the geometry of the machine defining the expenditures.Big=$.

https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome...etools+used+usa
The prices are dropping rapidly for burnt board machines.
Converting a manual machine to cnc poses additional,large hardware costs.

(edit)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nn1bJ3YAQdI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxxdq6y8z8M

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35tHYaDUmZQ


This is it,in action.
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I've done a few small CNC conversions from manual machines at home, I did a CNC retrofit a few years ago at work using Mach3, nobody likes it except for me and a few machinists.

No more low dollar retrofits for work, all new FANUC electronics or Delta Tau, a little more $$ but worth it in the end.

No pun?

You should make a clock out of the rotor and hang it over the lathe......just cause

You're right. I'll do something like that.

I have my first revenue project.

I'll be modifying 914 axles for 944 CVs.

That should be a good one, because .001 precision isn't critical.

Updates will follow.

Oh no....

Broaching or shaping,rolling or milling?

https://www.google.ca/search?q=spline+shapi...c27AjEQ_AUIBygC
https://www.google.ca/search?q=rope+thread+...rolling+process
https://www.google.ca/search?q=spline+milli..._IjncQ_R52HM%3A
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Or you could trade your lathe for 250 beanie babies...

https://nh.craigslist.org/bar/5416282872.html

Observations from the mind of a beginner on the lathe:


Not having quick-change tools with adjustable height is complete bullshit. That will be corrected shortly.

The "simple" task of chucking a lug nut is not simple at all. It's almost impossible to get them to spin true. I have discovered this is because the bolt head and the threaded shaft are not necessarily manufactured on the same axis. This makes the "easy" task of turning a flat shoulder out of the conical seat very difficult if you want it to be perpendicular to the axis of the threading.

With the (?) tooling I found with the lathe, I can face steel at about 1mm per pass at 260 rpm. If you get greedy or impatient and go for 1.5mm per pass, you will be looking for another tool.

I ruined a parting tool, so I need more information on its correct use. Once I ruin the tip on a parting blade, how do I fix/sharpen it again? Can I?

On a positive note, I was able to put that brake rotor I ruined back on the machine. I got the wheel face turning within .001" and was then able to make the braking surfaces do the same. On my previous effort, I had managed to turn the outer face to a runout of .006" and the inner face to .01". Ouch.

Nice clock

I don't want to pay the price, but it looks like I'll be buying an Aloris BXA tool post and holders. I found a set for around $650, but I'm still shopping for used.

Chinese sets can be had for less than half that, but I think I'll eventually replace my Chinese lathe with a good one, so I might as well start assembling good tooling.

Look at KDK style first. . much better and a lot easier to use. . there use to
be a seller that had Tiawan copies which are just as good. . holders are about $20 each. . It's the toolpost that is expensive. . Get the 100 size

This is an excellent deal. . full set with 8 holders $350 buy it now

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lathe-KDK-100-Quic...VUAAOSwHQ9WZ2KZ

Those are so cool without the big bar on top to get in the way. Never seen one around here though; maybe it's a west coast thing?

Where is the height adjustment on those?

I use Aloris BX series. They have sales on a regular basis.

I use their .087 wide carbide parting tool inserts (with someone else's holder I think).

Where is the height adjustment on those?

There are allen set screw in the top and bottom. . these can be turned over so 2 cutters can be set up in 1 holder. .each side with different heights

Yes, these are primarily a West Coast thing. . all the areospace industries of the 90's used them. . can't understand why they never caught on in the East. .

I like to use what's called a "dial test indicator" for setting up stuff on a lathe.... different than a "dial indicator". The feeler nub has less range of motion but it springs back to position on its own.

About the issue with the lugs having multiple axis for the heads/threads, you can use a 4 jaw independent chuck, vs the universal 3 jaw. They take longer to set up but more accurate. The test indicator becomes very handy with an independent chuck.

How can you inform your neighbors that it's noon each day, and practice on the lathe....and impress all your friends.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YH4ereLJWtY

https://www.google.ca/search?q=lathe+tool+h...Ib7EMPqcWc9M%3A
Quick height setting.
BTW,buy a few sets of feeler gauges as shimpacks,under the tool,handy,< 20$.

(edit:2/09/16)
A boxfull of shims,cut from shipping strappings,burr-less and flat.<5$

How we set our tool IC,circa 1971,1967-VDF Boehringer.Optical Microscope.
https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome...=VDF+Boehringer
Click to view attachment

Most of all these are all solved techniques,doing it for like,forever.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=wartime+wome...OF9vsdonD5SM%3A

(edit:2/23/16)
https://www.google.ca/search?q=carbide+inse...Nqs2bbXrH_-M%3A

The nose radius of the tool in the picture is not the IC of the tool.
The nose radius is a variable to which compensation is applied on manual,nc and cnc machines,when radii or slopes are machined.
In general,a nose radius imparts it's form to shoulder intersections when using manual machines.
For a larger shoulder radii with a smaller nosed tool,'stair-step' the large rad using trigonometry calculations of gradually finer resolutions.

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When I had access to a shop, it seemed like a grinder was pretty much a lathe accessory. We had a stock of blanks and old cutters and the experts could grind new tools or just grind new edges onto old tools with the right relief angles just by eye. I used a template. I think guys doing high quality work were always touching up the edges. IIRC, we frequently dipped the tools in a can of water as we were grinding to keep from losing the temper on the edge.

Click to view attachment

Making your own bushings is a handy skill.
Turning(cryogenically) dry-ice or nitrogen frozen rubbers and plastics calls for hss tool grinding and diamond honing.
Form tool geometry for those materials and some light metals requires high positive rake.
A carbide ball tool in a die grinder can create a groove in the top surface of the hss shank,a kind of 'moat'.
The relief flank is then ground to give a .005/.007" wide top face and positive chip rake.

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With some practice and a toolmaker's microscope,a <16rms finish can be achieved.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=shadowgraph+...Rz1AvcQ_AUIBigB

http://www.graphalloy.com/html/type_317.html

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(edit:2/23/16)
Generally,the use of old tech is cheap in terms of tooling costs,high in labour for the grinding of tungsten and cobalt HSS,or B-CARs.
The first error with either tool type will destroy the tool and or part,forcing a restart from the beginning.
A brand new indexable insert tool holder will allow some leeway for miscalculated feeds and speeds.
Know what you are doing before the tool touches the part.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=hand+grindin...BxuxkzkYIx6M%3A
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Seriously

Click to view attachment

Thread rolling for fun.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=thread+rolli...I0PmuZ6LetkM%3A

Thread turning on a lathe:
https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome...urning+on+lathe

Pitch diameter,metric,thread series,3-wire measurements and calculation of fits.
https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome...d+specification

Click to view attachment

Need to know.
https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome...d+specification

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