I know that welding causes heat but I failed to consider the consequences of welding on my 914-6 clone column. I can't install the lower bearing.

I have tried heating up the column and installing the bearing and was successful but ended having to remove because the bearing was binding.

So I have decided that machining is the way to go. Lathe may be the easiest if I could chuck it up, not. So that leaves a milling machine.

Could the machining experts please help here?

Could a small diameter hone work? The price is right
https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-1120-Small...words=bore+hone

I would think a small break hone would work for this.

Hi,

Take it to a repair oriented machine shop ( or friend with a lathe). The way to do it is to clamp the part to the compound or cross-slide (as if it was going to be line bored) shim up the shaft/tube to the lathes centerline and clamp in place. Then put an adjustable boring bar in a collet in the spindle (like a Criterion or DeVleig) and then tease off the out of round or off-size heat deformation. It won't take much. The machining will take a few minutes the set-up 1/2 hour plus.

I don't think that bearing needs perfect machining to sit in all the way around. It's not carrying a load. I'd try the hone, which may expose some high points that can be taken down with some light touches from a carbide cutter.

I think you can get it sorted out in your garage. Or throw it in a box my way and I'll sort it in my free time and document my process.

Thanks Mark I will try the hone (it was cheap) and let you know

David

Is there a member with a six that that is willing to send their reinforcement "washer" to McMark so he can have these laser cut

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I have this piece and also a laser.

I can work on this and sell it with the other stamped piece.

Pete

Awesome Pete. I was gonna run with it, but you're way more set up to deal with it.

Installed the Jeff Hines left-side ignition kit.

I want one of each, set them aside for me for when we bring you your seat.

That's my support ring in the photo and bought it last year via Mittlemotor at the time it was still available

Pete, for any reason if you can't find yours / NLA I would be happy to post over

Pete - I'll take 2 spacers. Thanks, mark

That is awesome Pete I will take one also. Please let me know when they are ready


Yes I borrowed sixerj photo to help emphasize my point

Here is the preliminary drawing. In the next couple days I will cut one out on the laser and see how it matches up to the OEM piece.

Pete

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Please add me to the list; I will order 1

Me too:)

Nothing really constructive to add here . . . just found these pictures of a set up I had, at one time, from a '71/6.

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I cut out the shim today.

It fits on the ignition nicely and matches up the original piece nice as well.
Next week I will cut them out of the proper gauge steel.

Pete

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Good afternoon Pete,

Is there any chance you would consider making the "washer" a little thicker?

Thanks

David

Originally the thickness is .035"

What do people want? I have material that is .045" and .032" It will be cut out of galvaneel steel, which wont rust so there is no need to paint it. It also polishes up pretty nice with some scotch brite

I can cut either thickness, but I don't want to cut both.

Pete

Pete, I would be really tempted to do it out of the thicker material. My new one I recall is very thin and yours looks like it has pulled up in where it has bolted up. I can't see that it's going to make a difference in mounting up, clearance with the plastic escutcheon etc

Thanks for doing this BTW and demonstrates exactly why this site and members are great

For those that have requested a thicker gauge metal, this may have been deliberate by Porsche. I've had a few of these and some customers' as well. When they distort they are very easily flattened back with a standard hammer and a flat surface and are good to go.

Don't forget that this is a malleable fixing plate to install the heavy unbalanced 911 style ignition. The weight and design of this ignition, and the way these older cars go down the road make the ignition move a lot even when properly installed. I think the thinner gauge and softness of the metal are supposed to behave more like a crush washer so the plate takes the impact and vibration from daily driving, instead of the soft threads of the mounting holes in the zinc casting of the steering lock housing.

This is just my opinion and reasoning. Then again maybe Porsche just cheapened out, but I would rather save the threads and have the plate give out, not the $950 ignition assembly.

Because you have the .045 in stock that would be my vote.

A class 8.8 M6 bolt requires a minimum 9.6mm of threads of engagement. There are 18mm of available threads in the lock. Therefore with a 20mm long bolt the risk of damaging the threads in the lock are minimal. I under stand tweet's post it is a very expensive part.

I have found a suitable black pan head screw and I have extras if anyone want some for their clone or real left side ignition. If interested please send me a PM

David
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If the u joints are the same between the 914 & 914-6 then why wont my 911 steering shaft slide on to my U joint? I can't find any burrs or damage and it will slide on to my 914 steering shaft?

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We finished cutting out the shims today.

They are cut from .045" thick material.

They will be sold with the dash depression piece I already make. If you want to buy one separately they will be $8. they are not on the website yet, so if you're dying to get one fast, then call and ask for Pete

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Cool!

Awesome I want one for sure.

Me too

That is great news since I'll need one too. I just wish it would have happened a couple of weeks ago when I ordered my dash depression piece.

Jeff B

I will bring a handful to Hershey if that helps anybody.

Pete

I think I'm missing the outer bearing. That seems to be easily sourced(?) Will the '73 /4 steering column shaft fit into this? It would allow me to use the later wheel which seems to be more available. Also, the lower circlip, any body have/source those? The one that holds the inner bearing in?

This is all that came in the box....

Here's where I'm at so far, and I'm just going to use that early ignition switch because I don't care so much about originality and which key it uses. Will the /6 plastic bezel screw onto my early switch? Anybody?

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The electrical connections for the ignition switch and the wiper/turn signal stalks are obviously very different when converting to the 911 column.

Does anyone have a chart with the pinout locations?

Jeff B

Yes. I'll pick up a couple from you then. Thanks

I want one too; anyone in So Cal ordering one ? I'd like to combine an order...

Wondering? what are the benefits of this mod? Converting to let side

Cool factor goes through the roof.

I did a pin-out ID for the Ignition Switch; will take a pic and post later

I will take one if you are ordering one. We can split the shipping cost.

This is all that I have been able to find so far
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The lower bearing is held in place with "C" clips. The upper bearing that you have already installed has a slight interference fit. I believe that the steering wheel fits in there and removed all of the play. I believe the lower bearing is the same between 914/914/6 and 911.

If you're doing a /6 conversion it makes it a little more authentic, true to what Porsche did. You don't have to do it, really it's just cosmetic.

But like Mark said...cool.

Great, lets see whether Larmo, Forrest, or ? want to order too....

Faster starts at Le Mans.....?

Cool factor for sure plus faster Le Mans starts!

Now, back to business, will a stock /4 steering shaft work inside of this column if I'm not going to use the lock mechanism?

Oh that would be perfect.

Lawrence, circlips are availiable from OPC, stoddard etc

I don't get the 35x1.5 dim, could swear the tube is bigger than that, should be cheap as chips if you can find a non Porsche source

Positive the late -4 column uses the same clip

http://www.stoddard.com/90004200800.html

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