Are they aware that the pieces are too short, and need to rectify the issue? ... asking for a friend

Why not a section from a parts car? ... asking for myself

Seems the fabricated piece would not be a good replica, and I doubt it would be cheaper than a second panel and splicing.

Given the age and lack of care most of these cars had over the decades compounded by zero rust protection from the factory, and finding good used sections might be a bit of a challenge.

Yup. If you get lucky and can find something in good shape. But it's SUCH a gamble. I don't want to get trapped trying to salvage a 'good' part that turns out to be rusty or bent. Yeah, there's some compromises, but there always is. Parts from another car are no exception. Everyone's gotta make their own choice about what works, and this is mine.

@SirAndy This what you had in mind? The blue block is a shaping tool I'll have them make so I can clamp it in place and hammer it into shape. I don't think it's worth chasing the bit of flange at the corner. But if you're really into it, I can have them cut a little curved piece and weld that into the gap. It's all time...

Hammer away, that looks good. Should have known you already accounted for this.

Got the new piece. Really happy with how it turned out, except I need two changes. 1) I had it made in 20g, which is the stock thickness. But I pulled out the driver side piece I have and that's 18g. I should have checked that first cause I want them to match for equal stiffness on both sides. 2) The top radius bend is just a hard 90 instead of a radius bend. But I did bend over the flanges at the front (by the heater tube) to make sure those worked, and it turned out great. If anyone is interested in buying the 'castoff' part, PM me.

BTW, the driver's side piece I have (HESS, apparently) is correct dimensions, so I won't need to go through this again.

Cool Mark.

Mark,, I applaued your efforts,,The radius is to tight..get a Hess right side..at least it matches the left...wtf Sir Andys paying.. pun intended..

I am following this just to see the results. There is no way I can do this type of work. I am NOT a body man in any way, shape or form. Body work is truly an art, and you are an artist.

Are you going to hammer and dolly all the external panels instead of putting in filler?

Excellent updates and thread, thanks for keeping it going.

Second run at this part had the same incorrect radius issue (why is communication so hard?) and some other issues. So attempt #2 was a step backwards unfortunately. One more try, then it's time to reevaluate how best to handle this.

Hmmm I wonder how I missed those updates? Yup I also ran into those same grievances with that repop part. I still have one that I spent WAY to much time modding / fitting only to get lucky & find & use a OE scabbed long instead.
The only other feature is I think that should be included is the slight recess on the bottom for the inlay of the floor pan

Finally got it right. I can start moving forward again...

Just an fyi for those indent details at the bottom I made a fixture to stamp/indent that pattern.. I may still have it somewhere. It worked really well.

Roughed in.

Looking good.

It is always rewarding to see new metal going in.

After a long time measuring, checking, massaging, and agonizing the driver's side long is roughed in. I'm starting to think this might actually turn into a car again..

Hey Mark, did you use the Hess drivers side long? If so did you have to modify it and what are you thoughts on this piece?

* absolutely no doubt in my mind you will make this very lucky six a beautiful car again

Thats quite a jig!

Maybe it is of interest, here is a picture from my original 914 fixture for the Celette Jig. Purchased it loooong time ago, when 914s with rust were thrown away.

Great job, Mark, it is good to see just annother 914 saved!

Amazing. It has got to get a lot easier from that point forward, right? That looks great and it is wonderful to see that chassis moving forward so it can get back on the road.

It's a good piece. Much better than the passenger side repro piece, but I think mine is better. The only real 'issue' I noticed is the bottom bend radius is the same as the top, so it'll take a bit of massaging where the old and new come together. And the floor pan relief isn't quite right. But as far as repro pieces go, it's good.


Yeah, I've built a lot of that for this project. The Celette fixtures only ensure the suspension points are in the right place, it doesn't guarantee the doors will line up or the windshield, etc. That's been the hardest part of this project. The metal work is not any harder than normal, but you only get one shot to get this all right -- if I make a mistake or rush or don't check something in the right order, at the right time, then I could stack a whole bunch of other metal on top of something that's wrong. Most of the time hasn't been actually working, just a lot of thinking and planning, measuring and building jigs.


Getting these longitudinals in will somewhat 'lock' the front half to the back half. It took me a LONG time to get comfortable with my measurements, not just the numbers, but where I'm measuring from and to. To get here I only locked the strut tops into place with fixtures. Those are my 'grounding points', each time I add in another connection things get a little more solid. This builds confidence, but also absolutely must be done in the right order. If you lock something in too early, you could screw yourself later if it needs to move. I wouldn't quite say anything will be any easier until the doors are looking good and the front a-arm mounts are solid. At that point, as long as things are still lining up right, everything will get easier. Right now there's still a lot of.... risk? Not sure that's the right word, but there's still a lot of work before I feel like this has been successful.

The green is stuff I'm pretty sure is done. The red is stuff I KNOW is wrong and needs major work. The stuff with no color could be right, could need work.

It's far from over.

Amazing work. One of the few threads that makes me feel better about my own rust bucket.

Save every last one of the 914/6's!

I am a bit late to the party, but I can see tons of good stuff going on here. We are fitting new longs on the passenger side and it appears the new (RD) piece is too tall at the front end. Vertical dimensions (including flanges) are 7 3/8" rear and 8" front. The dimensions required at the front end are in the 7 1/4" range being dictated by the location of the wheel well lower flange (existing) and the upper edge of the lower door hinge post. Also the bends are not 90 degrees. Can someone help?

You're doing a great job, Mark. Skills

Work

Some seriously mad fab and metal working skills here.

It is so nice to see this chassis coming back to life. Great job working out the kinks.

Collision damage ON TOP OF rust damage, quite the project and hats off, it's looking great.

Time to bump this one. Some may understand the amount of work this is. There is so much reverse engineering here with both the crash damage and rust on top of it. Nice work. Your brain must hurt some days.

What a display of skill and determination !
Keep up the great work.
Beautiful.

Been a while and would love to see any progress updates.

It is a privilege to be a part of this group of enthusiasts. So many awesome builds and conversions going on. Wonderful talent being showcased.
Mark your skills have been known on world for a while.
It’s an overused word but it is AMAZING the metal skill to resurrect this six.
Look forward to more. Thanks SirAndy for bringing it back.
Going to be a cool creation with the hints of your plans for it.
Cheers, Dion

Talked to McMark today. Progress is slow but steady. The front trunk floor pan is in and he's working on making sure the suspension attachment points are within spec.

Even after all the pulling on the Celette bench, there's still a metric shit ton of bent metal on this car.

Slow but steady wins the race. I am sure McMark will get that tub like new.

Wow! This one is worth seeing more of. On the bright side for me, the restoration has been going on longer than mine!

But, in all fairness, it started off way worse and of course it is a real /6 worthy of saving.

So amazing this was offered up for sale at one point for $5k as /6 tub and no takers. Glad SirAndy is saving it!

Recently went by Mark's Original Customs shop in Grand Rapids, MI.
It was closed & hope Mark is safe & healthy?
Good guy & great 914er
Tom

Yeah, the shop is closed (probably permanently) but he's still working on my car when he wants to get away from his day job.

I am very sorry to hear Original Customs is closed ; he is a terrific guy and our cars need experts like him. I wish him the best and am very glad he is still working on your car Andy.

New metal!

Nice Work...If you Make right side pillar pusher LMK..I'll rent It... Ive got my own bent SIX.