the purge valve is on the engine harnes. the way it worked was the pressure sensor work thru a swotching solinoid that read intake pressure and atmosphereic pressure which were on the body harness. there where two valves on the engine one was the egr control the other is a purge valve for the tank fumes
at least this is how it si on pre 00 miles
Full Version: Tony's Subaru Conversion Thread
Slowly but surely I've been making progress. The metal work on the car has slowed down a bit but in its place, the electrical work has progressed.
I finished the replacement for my relay board. It has a 5-position fuse block and three relays. One for system power, and two for each of the two radiator fans. There is room for a 4th relay for a heater blower, but that is an upgrade I will make when the time comes.
The new relay board is built inside of a weatherproof plastic housing with a hinged transparent lid. The box will mount to the side of the engine bay where the old relay board would sit. The box lid will open down for easy access to replace fuses or relays. I still need to drill a hole in the bottom for the wiring to go through and the large gray plastic Anderson Power conenctor will possibly be mounted on the bottom of the box. This connects to the alternator cable.
I finished the replacement for my relay board. It has a 5-position fuse block and three relays. One for system power, and two for each of the two radiator fans. There is room for a 4th relay for a heater blower, but that is an upgrade I will make when the time comes.
The new relay board is built inside of a weatherproof plastic housing with a hinged transparent lid. The box will mount to the side of the engine bay where the old relay board would sit. The box lid will open down for easy access to replace fuses or relays. I still need to drill a hole in the bottom for the wiring to go through and the large gray plastic Anderson Power conenctor will possibly be mounted on the bottom of the box. This connects to the alternator cable.
oops. forgot the picture...
The guts.
The next piece I have been working on isn't quite finished yet, but is close enough for some progress to be reported.
This box will sit on top of the ECU and simulate various sensors. The resistors are not in place, but the PCB is wired up and mounted to the housing. The PCB is unusual in color - white. Thats because the PCB is some scrap (expensive) ceramic/PTFE material that I had laying around. No particualr reason that its any better or worse for this application.
The housing is another piece of scrap. It once housed some kind of predistortion circuit for a microwave amplifier and probably cost more than what many of us payed for our 914s. Its a lovely chunk of hogged out and chem-filmed aluminum. The plastic lid I made myself.
There's a red LED indicator inside to show that the power supply for the sensors is active.
This box will sit on top of the ECU and simulate various sensors. The resistors are not in place, but the PCB is wired up and mounted to the housing. The PCB is unusual in color - white. Thats because the PCB is some scrap (expensive) ceramic/PTFE material that I had laying around. No particualr reason that its any better or worse for this application.
The housing is another piece of scrap. It once housed some kind of predistortion circuit for a microwave amplifier and probably cost more than what many of us payed for our 914s. Its a lovely chunk of hogged out and chem-filmed aluminum. The plastic lid I made myself.
There's a red LED indicator inside to show that the power supply for the sensors is active.
Just curious, what sensors did you have to simulate. We are all enjoying your progress reports, Great project.
That sure is a nice system for the relays and such!
How have I been missing this thread?
Awesome work...I'm taking notes!
Awesome work...I'm taking notes!
Okay, so I will be simulating the following sensors..
Fuel level sender (0.12 to 4.95 volts)
Fuel Temp sender (2.5 to 3.8 volts)
Fuel Tank Pressure sender (2.3 to 2.7 volts)
Rear O2 sensor signal (0 - 0.9 volts)
Neutral position sensor (+12 in neutral, 0 when in gear)
Rear O2 heater sensor signal (0-1.0 volts)
Power Steering oil pressure sender (open/close)
There may be one more, I'm still finalizing the wiring...
Most of these wil use small 10-turn potentiometers to set the desired signal voltage, but I may end up using real metal-film resistors in the end, as they are a bit more reliable.
-Tony
Fuel level sender (0.12 to 4.95 volts)
Fuel Temp sender (2.5 to 3.8 volts)
Fuel Tank Pressure sender (2.3 to 2.7 volts)
Rear O2 sensor signal (0 - 0.9 volts)
Neutral position sensor (+12 in neutral, 0 when in gear)
Rear O2 heater sensor signal (0-1.0 volts)
Power Steering oil pressure sender (open/close)
There may be one more, I'm still finalizing the wiring...
Most of these wil use small 10-turn potentiometers to set the desired signal voltage, but I may end up using real metal-film resistors in the end, as they are a bit more reliable.
-Tony
| QUOTE (TonyAKAVW @ Jul 28 2005, 08:21 AM) |
| ...................., but I may end up using real metal-film resistors in the end, as they are a bit more reliable. -Tony |
Yes, please don't use the fake metal-film resistors, even though the low price may be tempting.
Andrew
| QUOTE (TonyAKAVW @ Jul 28 2005, 12:17 AM) |
| oops. forgot the picture... |
Cool! With just a few minor tweeks you can make it look like the 'flux capacitor'. (Not making fun. I think it's great.)
-Ben M.
You know, Bondo mentioned that to me, that the box looks like a flux capacitor. Maybe I should put a label on it that says "Warning! Do Not Exceed 88 mph"
Making a gullwing 914 would be an interesting challenge.
-Tony
Making a gullwing 914 would be an interesting challenge.
-Tony
the power steering pressure is not nessesary to fake it only closes when it loses pressure. but what you could do to make use of it is to connect it to a thermostat set at about 215 degrees, that way you get the extra signal ( cel ) if your temp goes high.
i also think you are going over board on the resisitor thing just intragrate them in to the harness
i also think you are going over board on the resisitor thing just intragrate them in to the harness
| QUOTE |
| i also think you are going over board on the resisitor thing just intragrate them in to the harness |
I am absolutely going overboard
But then I wouldn't do it any other way.
-Tony
Wow, nice work!
I'm a long time NASIOC member, and have a '95 Impreza with an MY2000 EJ25 conversion so this is a great read (Ive been looking at 914 stuff lately cause of the posts recently on NASIOC about the Renegage conversion, and the fact there is a 914 thats been forsale for like a year around the corner from my house
) That sensor simulator is a great piece, if you manage to get it to simulate both 02 sensors you can have alot of fun with the exhaust design
I was wondering if anyone has thought about using a cowel induction style intake with the N/A scoob motors on the 914's... There was a I-club member awhile back who had one using a PRM style intake filter, might be a neat idea for the swap.
As far as engine mounts go, I was curious whether you would be using the Subaru mounts or just bolting directly to your fabricated mount...
For everyone else looking into Subaru swaps, there are ALOT of very new very cheap motors (usually JDM imports) showing up now, vendors usually are selling them on the forums. Keep an eye out here if you are shopping for one: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=112 (Gruppe-S still has a brand new EZ30-R motor for ~$1500, the 250hp/215ft-lbs H6 from the new legacies, which gives me wicked ideas for a 914 conversion since it still uses the same motor mounts and such as the EJ motors... But I still think a verison 8 STI motor with its 8k redline combined with a high strung turbo would be a great motor for 914 but I dont think the tranny will take it
)
I'm a long time NASIOC member, and have a '95 Impreza with an MY2000 EJ25 conversion so this is a great read (Ive been looking at 914 stuff lately cause of the posts recently on NASIOC about the Renegage conversion, and the fact there is a 914 thats been forsale for like a year around the corner from my house
) That sensor simulator is a great piece, if you manage to get it to simulate both 02 sensors you can have alot of fun with the exhaust design I was wondering if anyone has thought about using a cowel induction style intake with the N/A scoob motors on the 914's... There was a I-club member awhile back who had one using a PRM style intake filter, might be a neat idea for the swap.
As far as engine mounts go, I was curious whether you would be using the Subaru mounts or just bolting directly to your fabricated mount...
For everyone else looking into Subaru swaps, there are ALOT of very new very cheap motors (usually JDM imports) showing up now, vendors usually are selling them on the forums. Keep an eye out here if you are shopping for one: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=112 (Gruppe-S still has a brand new EZ30-R motor for ~$1500, the 250hp/215ft-lbs H6 from the new legacies, which gives me wicked ideas for a 914 conversion since it still uses the same motor mounts and such as the EJ motors... But I still think a verison 8 STI motor with its 8k redline combined with a high strung turbo would be a great motor for 914 but I dont think the tranny will take it
)
Welcome to the 914club!
Regardnig the sensor simulator, I won't be simulating the front O2 sensor. That is used by the ECU to run the enigne, whereas the second sensor is there just to verify the cat is working. Since I'm not going to be running a cat, I have to simulate the second sensor.
Don't really know what a Cowell induction is...
For the engine mount, I will be using the Subaru rubber engine mounts, which will be bolted to a roughly U-shaped bar which cradles the engine.
That EZ30 engine sounds like a great engine for a 914. I wonder if you could still fit it in the engine bay with the radiator back there. If so, that would be THE killer setup.
-Tony
Regardnig the sensor simulator, I won't be simulating the front O2 sensor. That is used by the ECU to run the enigne, whereas the second sensor is there just to verify the cat is working. Since I'm not going to be running a cat, I have to simulate the second sensor.
Don't really know what a Cowell induction is...
For the engine mount, I will be using the Subaru rubber engine mounts, which will be bolted to a roughly U-shaped bar which cradles the engine.
That EZ30 engine sounds like a great engine for a 914. I wonder if you could still fit it in the engine bay with the radiator back there. If so, that would be THE killer setup.
-Tony
Tony... Tone... Toni... YOU ARE A NUT!
How cool is that!?
I swear, we don't even need cars to start with, we just need aluminum Chinese made copies, and the upper 2% of the club's brain trust to come up with awesome hardware to fill the holes with.
M
How cool is that!?
I swear, we don't even need cars to start with, we just need aluminum Chinese made copies, and the upper 2% of the club's brain trust to come up with awesome hardware to fill the holes with.
M
Hmmm, first time i've used that emoticon.. fun.Miles,
I just followed your sig link Which lead me to another link.
Website dedicated to busting pervs.
Sick old pervs flirt with 14 YO girls on AOL chat, offer to pay them a visit or they visit the guys, and then nail them with the help from the cops. How cool is that?
"Want some candy?"...
| QUOTE (TonyAKAVW @ Jul 31 2005, 08:40 AM) |
| Welcome to the 914club! Regardnig the sensor simulator, I won't be simulating the front O2 sensor. That is used by the ECU to run the enigne, whereas the second sensor is there just to verify the cat is working. Since I'm not going to be running a cat, I have to simulate the second sensor. Don't really know what a Cowell induction is... For the engine mount, I will be using the Subaru rubber engine mounts, which will be bolted to a roughly U-shaped bar which cradles the engine. That EZ30 engine sounds like a great engine for a 914. I wonder if you could still fit it in the engine bay with the radiator back there. If so, that would be THE killer setup. -Tony |
The cowel induction intake I mentioned was a little side project from a NASIOC member from a long time ago: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread...ighlight=intake Upon looking more at the 914 engine bay, it might not be a super great idea, but I'm curious now about what kind of intake designs people are doing with the scoobie engines...
As for the engine mounts, you might want to look into at least upgrading to STI engine mounts: http://www.rallispec.com/sub_drivemt.htm
Its not super expensive, but it may eliminate some concerns you have about engine movement. I mention this cause I saw that the other engine mount pic posted by Turbo914v8 and it looks like those might be the Group N mounts ($$$, also on that Rallispec page)
I dont think the radiator will fit in the engine bay with the EZ30, it is a tad bit longer than an EJ motor (But not THAT much longer, it fits in Impreza engine bays just fine)
Hello, just a simple question from a newbie. If you do a suby conversion and you want to go turbo, which one would you prefer:
1. 2.0 WRX single turbo
2. 2.0 WRX STI twin turbo
3. 2.5 WRX STI single turbo
What do you think?
Burg
1. 2.0 WRX single turbo
2. 2.0 WRX STI twin turbo
3. 2.5 WRX STI single turbo
What do you think?
Burg
My first choice would be a US domestic market sinle turbo 2.5 liter STI engine because it puts out more power than the 2.0 single turbo and has much easier exhaust plumbing than the dual turbo. I didn't know Subaru made an STI twin turbo engine actually... I know that there is a Jpanese domestic market twin turbo (like the one fiid was trying to use) but I don't think its an "STi" engine.
The 2.5L STi engines are very expensive. From what I see/hear they go for between $5k and $8k !
For any of the turbo engines you will almost certainly need to mount the radiator up front.
-Tony
The 2.5L STi engines are very expensive. From what I see/hear they go for between $5k and $8k !
For any of the turbo engines you will almost certainly need to mount the radiator up front.
-Tony
There really isnt such a thing as a WRX STI "twin turbo". The only cars that came with the twin turbos were foreign market turbo Legacies, and none of the current models use a twin turbo because of the developments in Twin Scroll Turbo technology. The JDM STI's use twins scroll turbos, as do the Legacies now. Its a much more efficient design that saves space and weight yet allows for alot of low-end torque because the twin scroll turbos spool at like 1500-2000rpms. Thats actually a good option if you want torque, even for a USDM WRX motor (IE the 2.0). There are a few folks who have run the twin scroll setup on WRX motors with great success (You can find the turbo, twin scroll piping, and oil pan all together for $1500, and use that with a WRX longblock which can be had for $1000 and you have a 300hp motor right there that spools very quickly). Although, im not sure how much torque you want in a 914 as I would think alot of low end turbo spooling would require rather large tires and a better tranny.
The other option is using a 2.5 USDM STI short block with whatever heads you want (WRX heads, JDM heads, etc.) which only costs about $1500 brand spankin new. Thats good for 30-40hp over a stock WRX motor right there, without spending the large amount of money for a full STI motor with all the goodies.
Theres another issue too with the new motors, especially the STI motor, and thats the electronic throttle. It pretty much requires you to use the proper ECU with that motor, and can make the pedal setup rather difficult. Ive also seen alot of issues with 05-06 motors now because of the Immobilizer built into the ECU's which will seems to be hard to get subaru support for, especially if you swaping it into another kind of car...
The twin turbo motors dont seem like a good idea to me for anything anymore, especially since there is ZERO support for this motor setup in North America.
I think if you arent going to do much with the tranny, a WRX motor with your choice of upgraded turbo would be ideal. Not too much torque and you can get it up to 200-300 wheel horse power if you want without too much trouble. A td05-16g or even the STI's VF39 are cheap options that I'd go with.
The other option is using a 2.5 USDM STI short block with whatever heads you want (WRX heads, JDM heads, etc.) which only costs about $1500 brand spankin new. Thats good for 30-40hp over a stock WRX motor right there, without spending the large amount of money for a full STI motor with all the goodies.
Theres another issue too with the new motors, especially the STI motor, and thats the electronic throttle. It pretty much requires you to use the proper ECU with that motor, and can make the pedal setup rather difficult. Ive also seen alot of issues with 05-06 motors now because of the Immobilizer built into the ECU's which will seems to be hard to get subaru support for, especially if you swaping it into another kind of car...
The twin turbo motors dont seem like a good idea to me for anything anymore, especially since there is ZERO support for this motor setup in North America.
I think if you arent going to do much with the tranny, a WRX motor with your choice of upgraded turbo would be ideal. Not too much torque and you can get it up to 200-300 wheel horse power if you want without too much trouble. A td05-16g or even the STI's VF39 are cheap options that I'd go with.
Just read this thread from begining to end....... I'm sold. Start looking for a donor EJ25 this week......
Great work on the details, write ups and valuable info! Please, by all means, keep it up. I'm soaking this stuff up like a sponge!
Being a mechanical engineer myself, all of your "over engineering" seems perfectly logical to me. True, you could just rush the job and wrap it all up with electrical tape but why not take the time to make it easy to work on later? Big Kudos!
And all of this with the cooling in the engine bay? Are you kidding me? Why not do the swap? This thing was made with the 914 in mind......
Great work on the details, write ups and valuable info! Please, by all means, keep it up. I'm soaking this stuff up like a sponge!
Being a mechanical engineer myself, all of your "over engineering" seems perfectly logical to me. True, you could just rush the job and wrap it all up with electrical tape but why not take the time to make it easy to work on later? Big Kudos!
And all of this with the cooling in the engine bay? Are you kidding me? Why not do the swap? This thing was made with the 914 in mind......
Time for an update.
I'm 95% done with my alternator bracket. I need to get a small amount of aluminum welding done, and hacksaw off an extra piece of metal and its done.
Conceptually my alternator bracket is similar to that of others who are doing/have done a Subaru conversion. Basically take the alternator and flip it over, out of the way of the intake, and build the 'adjustment' half of the bracket to hold the loose end.
The bracket was made in my father-in-law's machine shop in the outskirts of Buenos Aires. Thats right, I couldn't go for two weeks without doing some 914 related work. Lucky for me, my father-in-law is really excited about the projecct too. Last time he came up to visit he did some body work for me
Machining was done with a mix of tools, including my favorite, the vertical EDM, which we used to make precise internal right angle cuts, and the horizontal adjustment channel.
The original bracket which I took with me caused some problems at the Argentine customs. Upon X-raying my baggage the attendant asked me to pull out the offending metal piece. He held it for a moment, looked it over, asked what it was, still acted concerned, looked it over some more, and eventually gave it back to me. So if you ever want to take stuff in to Argentina, just pack a random piece of oddly shaped metal and it will distract them. Or maybe I just got lucky
Anyway, on with the pictures..
I'm 95% done with my alternator bracket. I need to get a small amount of aluminum welding done, and hacksaw off an extra piece of metal and its done.
Conceptually my alternator bracket is similar to that of others who are doing/have done a Subaru conversion. Basically take the alternator and flip it over, out of the way of the intake, and build the 'adjustment' half of the bracket to hold the loose end.
The bracket was made in my father-in-law's machine shop in the outskirts of Buenos Aires. Thats right, I couldn't go for two weeks without doing some 914 related work. Lucky for me, my father-in-law is really excited about the projecct too. Last time he came up to visit he did some body work for me
Machining was done with a mix of tools, including my favorite, the vertical EDM, which we used to make precise internal right angle cuts, and the horizontal adjustment channel.
The original bracket which I took with me caused some problems at the Argentine customs. Upon X-raying my baggage the attendant asked me to pull out the offending metal piece. He held it for a moment, looked it over, asked what it was, still acted concerned, looked it over some more, and eventually gave it back to me. So if you ever want to take stuff in to Argentina, just pack a random piece of oddly shaped metal and it will distract them. Or maybe I just got lucky
Anyway, on with the pictures..
(referring to the above picture...)
My timing belt cover parts are in the mail... I'm replacing the belt, water pump and cover pieces before putting the engine in the car...
finally...
My timing belt cover parts are in the mail... I'm replacing the belt, water pump and cover pieces before putting the engine in the car...
finally...
toni does your engine have a iac valve and where are you putting it if it does ?
mount looks nice you should make a few
mount looks nice you should make a few
Yes, my motor does have an Idle Air Solenoid. Not sure where I'm going to put it, but I pretty much decided to do away with the stock tubing and hoses for air and fuel, and just start over with my own. So I'll find some place to mount it...
-Tony
I'll see if my father in law wants to do a small run of these.
-Tony
I'll see if my father in law wants to do a small run of these.
I would be interested in one. Looks very stock.
Eric
Eric
Wow! Thats much prettier than my version. If you ever end up making some extras you want to be rid of, let me know! 
I briefly looked over Rennegade's Subie swap on display at the GAF in Ventura this past weekend. Motor fits very nicely, with nearly a foot of space between the firewall and the front of the motor. They made a sub frame that looked like it bolted to the motor mount crossbar mounting points, and the transmission mounting points. I'm not familiar with Subie motors, but his one had an intercooler so I assume turbo.
I avoided talking with Scott about it, as he's always trying to oversell everything....it's very annoying, though he's a nice guy. Anyone have any idea as to the cost of his Subie kit?
Andys
I avoided talking with Scott about it, as he's always trying to oversell everything....it's very annoying, though he's a nice guy. Anyone have any idea as to the cost of his Subie kit?
Andys
$2k gets you:
engine mount
rubber istolators
mount plates
mount blocks
billet adapter plate
custom flywheel
pilot bearing
throwout bearing
Kevlar clutch disc
pressure plate
hardware
Add another $1000 for the front radiator setup.
engine mount
rubber istolators
mount plates
mount blocks
billet adapter plate
custom flywheel
pilot bearing
throwout bearing
Kevlar clutch disc
pressure plate
hardware
Add another $1000 for the front radiator setup.
tony such a wealth of info thats what renegade wants so how much did you pay and what are the alternatives?? 
also i would take a bracket too!!!
Well, so far I'm into this for about $75 including the car, the engine, adapter, 5 lug setup, SC front end, etc. This is due to my repeatedly getting very very lucky...
But to break down the major costs so far...
Engine - $900 but needed maybe $200 in parts
Transmission adapter/flywheel - $250 used, off of Craigslist
I still have about $1000 in parts to buy before I get the car on the road, but this is more than just a conversion, I am taking a car from a rolling chassis to a fully running car.
I'm saving a lot of money by making my own engine bar and keeping the radiator in the engine bay, etc.
Regarding the brackets... I am going to draw up some plans based on my bracket, with some minor improvements and have my father-in-law figure out how to make them and get them shipped up here. I'll try and have some info soon on these.
-Tony
But to break down the major costs so far...
Engine - $900 but needed maybe $200 in parts
Transmission adapter/flywheel - $250 used, off of Craigslist
I still have about $1000 in parts to buy before I get the car on the road, but this is more than just a conversion, I am taking a car from a rolling chassis to a fully running car.
I'm saving a lot of money by making my own engine bar and keeping the radiator in the engine bay, etc.
Regarding the brackets... I am going to draw up some plans based on my bracket, with some minor improvements and have my father-in-law figure out how to make them and get them shipped up here. I'll try and have some info soon on these.
-Tony
Update:
Still working on getting the timing belt installed. I made a stupid mistake of cutting off the old timing belt before aligning the timing marks. Because of this I have some uncertainty of where the timing is. So after consulting with Bondo, I decided to pull the oil pan off, rotate the crank to MDC, and then rotate the cams to their appropriate positions and then the crank to its position. The engine is an interference type, so I can't just freewheel everything into place without being careful.
Hopefully by end of tonight I'll have the timing belt on and install the cover, the crankshaft pulley, etc. I think now is probably as good a time as any to modify the oil pan and oil pickup tube.
Here's a photo of the motor's guts.
Still working on getting the timing belt installed. I made a stupid mistake of cutting off the old timing belt before aligning the timing marks. Because of this I have some uncertainty of where the timing is. So after consulting with Bondo, I decided to pull the oil pan off, rotate the crank to MDC, and then rotate the cams to their appropriate positions and then the crank to its position. The engine is an interference type, so I can't just freewheel everything into place without being careful.
Hopefully by end of tonight I'll have the timing belt on and install the cover, the crankshaft pulley, etc. I think now is probably as good a time as any to modify the oil pan and oil pickup tube.
Here's a photo of the motor's guts.
The timing belt is installed and the oil pan mating surface is cleaned up.
Left to do on the engine:
torque the crankshaft pulley
install the water crossover pipe
install the thermostat and water pump right angle pipe
bolt down the intake manifold
install fuel injectors and rails
do all the hoses on the engine and install misc. valves, filters, etc.
bolt down the throttle body
install oil filler neck
modify and install new oil pan and pickup tube
re-arrange the wiring to fit properly.
-Tony
Left to do on the engine:
torque the crankshaft pulley
install the water crossover pipe
install the thermostat and water pump right angle pipe
bolt down the intake manifold
install fuel injectors and rails
do all the hoses on the engine and install misc. valves, filters, etc.
bolt down the throttle body
install oil filler neck
modify and install new oil pan and pickup tube
re-arrange the wiring to fit properly.
-Tony
bad ass alt bracket tony!!!
sooo over engineered!!
sooo over engineered!!
MORE MORE MORE!!!!
great pics and info tony.......
great pics and info tony.......
After working on the engine I am taking some time now to work on some other parts of the car which need attention. First up is the braking system which is essentially non existent.
I will be using A calipers on the front which came on the SC front suspension that I have. For the rears, I will be using stock 914 rear calipers but spaced to fit 911 vented rotors.
First things first though. Tonight I worked on the pedal cluster. I really need to send a couple parts to a sand blasting place. These will get powder coacted and re-assembled with new bushings. Because the brake light switch failed I am going to engineer a repalcement for it that whould be substantially cheaper than the repalcement 914 switch.
-Tony
I will be using A calipers on the front which came on the SC front suspension that I have. For the rears, I will be using stock 914 rear calipers but spaced to fit 911 vented rotors.
First things first though. Tonight I worked on the pedal cluster. I really need to send a couple parts to a sand blasting place. These will get powder coacted and re-assembled with new bushings. Because the brake light switch failed I am going to engineer a repalcement for it that whould be substantially cheaper than the repalcement 914 switch.
-Tony
The last remaining arear on the interior of the car to be POR-15'd is the pedal cluster area, and tonight it got stripped down and got the usual pre-treatment. Might be able to get it painted tomorrow night.
-Tony
-Tony
Got some stuff done today...
First, I met my favorite stripper. She's great. She takes EVERYTHING off.
Her name is Aircraft and she comes in a can. I used it to strip the paint off the subaru oil pan which I'm going to modify this week. Also used it to finish cleaning up the pedal cluster parts which then got a blast of phosphocrap and then POR15. I decided not to powdercoat because POR-15 is impervious to brake fluid unlike powder!
I did do some powder coating however and made a really quick and dirty oven. I took a piece of sheetmetal (rusty of course) and bent it into a U-shape and clamped it to my hand dolly, and set the propane heater in front of it. I then suspended the parts with teflon wire, (which is great for the powder coating and heat resistant for curing) and after coating baked them. I suspended an oven thermometer in the back, to ensure that I was getting to 400 degrees even at the back. Seemed to work quite well.
-Tony
First, I met my favorite stripper. She's great. She takes EVERYTHING off.
Her name is Aircraft and she comes in a can. I used it to strip the paint off the subaru oil pan which I'm going to modify this week. Also used it to finish cleaning up the pedal cluster parts which then got a blast of phosphocrap and then POR15. I decided not to powdercoat because POR-15 is impervious to brake fluid unlike powder!
I did do some powder coating however and made a really quick and dirty oven. I took a piece of sheetmetal (rusty of course) and bent it into a U-shape and clamped it to my hand dolly, and set the propane heater in front of it. I then suspended the parts with teflon wire, (which is great for the powder coating and heat resistant for curing) and after coating baked them. I suspended an oven thermometer in the back, to ensure that I was getting to 400 degrees even at the back. Seemed to work quite well.
-Tony
Inside the oven...
So here's what I was powder coating.
Andrew (Phantom914) gave me a steering wheel and a couple other pieces. One piece was a standard Momo-type adapter and the other was a spacer that he made from billet aluminum to adapt the "cheap 5 bolt Pep Boys type steering wheels" to the Momo adapter. Well the momo adapter was powder coated with some kind of black crinkle finish and had a big spot that was abraded. The spacer was plain aluminum and the bolt ring was some very dull powder.
Further, the horn button had a little "Auto Tecnica" emblem behind it. I decided this was lame, and printed up my own custom emblem. After putting it all together (powder coated the bolts to match too) it looks like this.
Clearly this is not something that is getting me closer to having my car on the road, but it was fun and will look pretty slick.
-Tony
Andrew (Phantom914) gave me a steering wheel and a couple other pieces. One piece was a standard Momo-type adapter and the other was a spacer that he made from billet aluminum to adapt the "cheap 5 bolt Pep Boys type steering wheels" to the Momo adapter. Well the momo adapter was powder coated with some kind of black crinkle finish and had a big spot that was abraded. The spacer was plain aluminum and the bolt ring was some very dull powder.
Further, the horn button had a little "Auto Tecnica" emblem behind it. I decided this was lame, and printed up my own custom emblem. After putting it all together (powder coated the bolts to match too) it looks like this.
Clearly this is not something that is getting me closer to having my car on the road, but it was fun and will look pretty slick.
-Tony
and the adapters...
Cool Horn Button 
I was under the car tonight putting the engine into place and heard some weird noises. I got up and heard more noises from the shelves above me. There was some kind of animal up there but I had no idea what it was. Then all of a sudden this little bird appears and starts flying around. Because it was so bright in the garage he couldn't figure out how to escape. I eventually just shut off the lights and he flew right out.
So tonight I managed to get the engine and transmission into the car, aligned and ready for making measurements for the engine support bar.
I used a transmission jack that I bought for repairing my wife's car to move the transmission/engine assembly into the correct position.
I used a transmission jack that I bought for repairing my wife's car to move the transmission/engine assembly into the correct position.
Here's the engine/transmission from beneath. You may notice that the oil pan is missing. That is currently undergoing a geometry adjustment. (making it shorter ro I can keep the engine low.
nice work tony keep up the good work
and thanks for keepin me motivated
the more i get motivated the more i fall in
with my 914
and thanks for keepin me motivated
the more i get motivated the more i fall in
with my 914
Okay, so I got my engine support bar back today from the welder. This engine support bar is made from 1.5 inch square steel tubing with a wall thickness of 0.075. The plates that the engine mounts bolt to are 1/2 inch thick and comprise a substantial fraction of the overall weight. However, these have a fair amount of stress on them, so I figured I'd make sure they aren't going to have problems.
I'll post measurements later, but the entire thing was made from a just under 5 foot length of tubing. I cut out 30 degree wedges at each of the bends. The 4th side of the tubing was left in place and I just bent the thing together. When I put it in the car to check out the mating, it fit very well on the first try. I held it in shape with some wooden struts that I bolted to the bar.
The welding cost $40, but I also took several other pieces, so I figure at most $30 to have this thing welded up, and another $10 or so in materials. Cutting was done with a hacksaw. I made a template for the angled cuts using some clear plastic acrylic pieces on which I scribed the angles with a knife. I used a few metal files to clean up the cuts and even them out.
-Tony
I'll post measurements later, but the entire thing was made from a just under 5 foot length of tubing. I cut out 30 degree wedges at each of the bends. The 4th side of the tubing was left in place and I just bent the thing together. When I put it in the car to check out the mating, it fit very well on the first try. I held it in shape with some wooden struts that I bolted to the bar.
The welding cost $40, but I also took several other pieces, so I figure at most $30 to have this thing welded up, and another $10 or so in materials. Cutting was done with a hacksaw. I made a template for the angled cuts using some clear plastic acrylic pieces on which I scribed the angles with a knife. I used a few metal files to clean up the cuts and even them out.
-Tony
tony when you mget ur bar in can u post it as i am not quite undestanding 
i guess but looks like the way that my engine was previously mounted 
with the mount welded to theside of the car, where the yellow strip is in this pic,
your bar certainly looks the part though good work
i guess but looks like the way that my engine was previously mounted with the mount welded to theside of the car, where the yellow strip is in this pic,
your bar certainly looks the part though good work
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