I had quite a good air flow under the car but still a low pressure area. The cars sitting with about 80mm clearance between road and belly pan, much less under heavy braking, I think with the bigger scoop it would have been no problem for cooling. Air exit was just via the engine area in the rear, very turbulant area so not the best exit conditions. The 2 grills at the back were used for intercooler air exit. The intercooler picked up ducted air from just inside the rear wheels, in this position (above the gearbox) it was open to heat sink problems in the engine compartment . The new setup will have the interccoler mounted in the old radiator position (in the front of the engine) as I don't think it's as critical for air delivery as the radiator, all headers the turbo and exhausts ceramic coated, 2.5 STI block with 2.0l heads etc. detuned to 260 HP at the rear wheels on low boost ( not the crazy 330+ they get here with these engines). This should give me a low stress engine and the best conditions for cooling.
I like your idea of a roof scoop, air delivery was one of the hardest things I found on my car as I didn't want to have big cutouts on the topside of the body so as to retain the original look of the car. Nothing better than smoking a thumping V8 at the drags in an "old timer car"......

So I neded up doing a water test of the oil pan. I filled the pan with soapy water and let it sit for a few hours. The pan ended up having two small pinholes, which I fixed by filling them with braze. I bought a MAAP Gas torch and brazing rod at the hardware store which worked well. The leaks are gone and so yesterday I did some serious powder coating.

The oilpan will probably need some more powder, as I couldn't get full coverage inside. If I can't get powder to work I'll slosh around some POR-15. The bottom of the pan on the outside ended up a little thin on the powder so I'll add some more and re-bake.

The engine bar came out perfectly, and I drilled holes through the almunim blocks to finish it up. The inside of the bar still needs some POR-15 and a drain hole at the bottom, but otherwise its done.

-Tony

..

...

Those are 3/8 inch diameter bolts.

The bare steel plate get welded to the longitudinals near the trunk firewall.

There's a decent diffuser thread on the Subbie board..

Linky Linky

BJH

Man, I wish I had a tig.

I have a Tig.

Man I whish I know how to use the Tig.

Learning tig wasn't too tough for me. If you know how to Oxy Acetalene weld, it's very similar.

Find somone local and have them give you a crash course.

Got some work done tongiht on the engine. I'm starting to get it all put back together. I put the intake manifold and throttle body on, as well as the injectors and runners. Also, the water pipe that conencts one side of the engine to the other. The oil tank is on, as well as the shortened pickup tube. I managed to tighten all the bolts around the perimeter of the oilpan. This was based on a lesson learned from Scott's oilpan where he ran into problems getting a few of the bolts tightened. I put some effort into designing my oil tank mods such that the bolts were accesible, at least by some means...

The pulley on the front needs torqueing down but after that I can install my custom alternator bracket, and the alternator.

Anyway, here's the modified pickup tube. I basically cut out something like 1.5 inches of the tube and brazed it back together. Across the bottom of the pickup tube, Bondo welded a piece of welding rod. This is an idea I stole from Outback Motors. They do this so that if the pan gets bashed in, something keeps the intake opening somewhat clear.

The engine is finally starting to look like an engine!

more engine stuff.

Got the intake installed. The intake is an AEM intake. I cut one of the tubes shorter than normal, and had to build a bracket to hold it up. Bracket is made of aluminum and steel, and powdercoated. Between the rbacket and the intake tube is a small piece of silicone rubber.

-Tony

Engine is almost done. Left to do:

Bolt on the alternator, bracket, and belt
Fuel and air hoses
Install/adjust engine wiring harness.

-Tony

Looks familiar.... Keep up the great work!

Well, the engine is now basically ready for installation. The only things left are to bolt on the flywheel and fuel injection hose. Otherwise its all wired up, all the vacuum lines and sensors are installed, etc.



-Tony

This weekend I started working on the cable shifter, the portion that botls to the shifter console on the transmission that is.

I made ample use of my Sherline lathe, hacksaw, drill press, taps, and files. I'm not sure if its clear (probably is to some, not to others) how this whole thing will work.

Basically the threaded rods will connect to the cables and provide the two degrees of motion needed to select a gear.

I still have a bit of work left on this, but the major components are under way.

-Tony

tony, im' sure you mentined before but what is the peak torque/HP and max RPM on this beast?

QUOTE

what is the peak torque/HP and max RPM on this beast?

On the first page of this thread is a dyno run plot of an EJ25 engine. It looks like the peak torque is 163 ft lbs and peak horsepower is 165 or so.

I will be running this with no cat and a better air intake, no air conditioner or power steering pump, so I figure I'll be at 170 - 175 HP.


-Tony

What are you doing to compensate for the thickness of the plate?

QUOTE

What are you doing to compensate for the thickness of the plate?

Well, I'm actually going to cut away the plate so that the bit that goes on the end of the shift rod can go down as far as it needs to go. So the plate thickness won't matter at that point.

-Tony

First bit of progress in a month!

The silver roller is now out of the garage, so tomorrow I'm pulling the 1.7 out of the daily driver and getting it ready for the Subaru conversion.

So if anyone wants a 1.7, let me know.

Hopefully next weekend I an install the Subaru engine

-Tony

why go through so much hassel? when renegade hybrids has already perfected the subie conversion

video proof

Because he rocks, and he thought of it first.

Great work, Tony! Looking good!


M

QUOTE (vespasoul @ Apr 10 2006, 04:39 AM)

why go through so much hassel? when renegade hybrids has already perfected the subie conversion video proof

Designing your own set up, documenting it, and being a pioneer are all worth more than a conversion in the box. Probably even cost less.

Short answer: Same reason a dog licks himslef

Finally some progress to report. For those just re-tuning in, I have abandoned the silver car conversion and am in the process of converting my yellow '70 1.7 to an EJ25.

A month ago or so, I had an engine pull party. In the time since then, I have stripped out all unneeded metal in the engine bay (except the OEM engine mounts, which are both difficult to remove and might prove useful in the future). Additionally, I have ground down the remaining spot welds, filled in a few overzealous grinds, etc. I've spent quite a few hours sanding everything smooth. While it doesn't LOOK nice it is for the most part nice and smooth. Its not perfect, but it is good enough for me. With some luck I will be able to get the Zero Rust sprayed in this coming Saturday.

-Tony

WOW! Very nice fire wall to start with! I could only dream of having a clean rust free engine bay to work from. One day soon it will be back in shape but you have a great head start! Can't wait to see what happens next. Keep up the great work, I'm following along with every step as are many others...

There were a bunch of conversions already in progress when renegade started. Them being a full service shop with budget and full-time employees meant they finished first, and they did do a very nice job, but the other conversions that are in progress are all interesting for different reasons. In this case, the oil pan modifications and the ability to run the radiator in the engine compartment are of particular interest - especially given what an amazingly clean job Tony is doing.

Tony - is that a cable shift modification to the 901 sideshifter??

Schweet - nice work!!

Wow, cleaning up the engine bay looks like a real PITA, and a thankless job at that. It'll be nice to see it w/ some paint (and an engine).


BTW, now that history is being written, Scott Thatcher had his EJ25 swap, with radiator in the engine bay, on the road (cross country and back ) before Renegade announced their kit.

Thanks for all the comments.

Fiid: Yes, that's the beginning of a 901 cable shifter cconversion. I've decided that I need to build the part that goes onto the transmission much stronger, so that prototype will just be for getting the dimensions right. I need to borrow some time on a milling machine to make a suitably strong cable adapter.

jsteele22: The engine bay SUCKS to prep for paint. Its a maze of tight corners, bad painting by the factory (I sanded down several runs, there were lots of little holes in the final paint too) and lots of seam sealant that cracks and traps water.

Painting it should be similarly difficult, so I need to get some practice in before I do the job.

I've already addressed much earlier on in this thread why I've chosen not to use a Renegade setup. Kind of like why people climb mountains. "Because its there."

-Tony

This progress was posted at Pelican parts during the Great 914Club Hacker Blackout. I'm posting them here to keep the thread as a record of the work.

Stuff is now starting to get put into the engine bay. So far I haev put the battery back in, installed the new junction box, put back the brake proportioning valve, and brand new rigid rear brake lines. Also reconnected the parking brake tubes. The radiator frame is the next item to install. I am now thinking that I want to put some kind of rubber sheet or some sort of protection against the firewall to prevent it from being damaged by a continual spray of water laden hot air.

-Tony

WOW!I am going to have the most worthless teener in all creation! FANTASTIC LOOKING WORK TONY!




M!

Tony,

When I was looking at Jake Raby's car, he mentioned that he sprayed the entire engine compartment with Line-X; one of those pickup bedliner products. I'm not sure how heat resistant that stuff is, but that might be a solution for your firewall.

Your engine bay looks PRISTINE. Great work!

John

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread....threadid=282646

More progress! Today I installed the radiator frame, made a shroud to cover the cable outlets, and put the radiator in.

,,

Looks awesome Tony!

Whats the schedule for the rest?

Well, I've got a number of things in the works right now. The one thing that will definitely take some time is that I need to order a new flywheel from KEP and apparently there is a 5 week lead time on that part. In the meantime though I need to finish wiring, install the ECU, and get some serious work done on my cable shifter. So at least two months until its ready to roll.

-Tony

looks so foreign... with a radiator in the engine bay...

this aint no front engine "i get air flow" car....


looks sick. hope your cooling works

Bummer on that lead time.

Just let me know when you need a hand.

Damn TONY! Your work is METICULOUS! WHAT A BLOWOUT! UNREAL!

I am.. I just can't believe it!



M

Looks like the lower bracket/shifter box blocks about 33% of the potential inbound air flow? Any thoughts of cutting in some holes at the top? Ditto on the beautiful job and progress : )

The aperature blockage is actually the exhaust aperature. This cooling system will operate from the top down. That is, I will have a small spoiler just past the trailing edge of the roof line which upon positioning into the airstream will divert lots of air down into the engine bay. Instead of the usual engine lid grill I am going to use a series of vanes to aid in directing the air down. These vanes will extend up into the area that is normally solid. In the end it will be a super-GT-style engine bay lid.

The spoiler will attach to the car using the bolt holes for a ski rack. I still haven't quite figured out the details of it, but at some speed it will rise up into the air stream and push air into the engine bay.

As a further aide, I'm going to enclose the bottom of the car with a huge fiberglass sheet that will have an opening for the radiator exhaust, and a pair of venturi tunnels. By transitioning from a zone of high pressure (at the radiator exhaust) to a zone of low pressure (right behind the car) by means of an expanding tunnel, I ought to get a pretty decent pressure decrease under the car (in theory). Ideally this will benefit cooling by sucking air through the radiator, and at high speed may help to decrease lift.

-Tony

Can't wait to see it on the PV peninsula.

Air flow proof

TONY'S NEW HOME

J

great lookin work tony hope to see video of the end result as i wll never see the car in the flesh

Got a few things done over the last week or two.

* Put carpet on the inside of the firewall. Doesn't look concourse, but its decent enough for me.

* Took the Subaru ECU out of that silly wooden box from several pages back. Not sure exactly what I'll do in the end, but for now I am using a plate of aluminum with rubber vibration dampeners mounted to the center tunnel. Still working on this...

* Ordered and took delivery of stainless steel lines for fuel. I bought 6 foot lengths of stainless tubing from Mcmaster Carr. Less than $20 for the two pieces and they come delivered in a cool packaging tube, useful for who knows.

* Began installation of said fuel lines. Instead of Clay's method of using a die to thread the tubing, I made a beading tool. Basically I took a vice grip and ground down the tip as show in pictures below. it works pretty well, though I might make it differently if I did it again. The bead is not as high as I would like but I think its sufficient.

* Made and installed a mount for the fuel pump and mounted the pump. I took a sheet of 1/8" aluminum plate and cut it to fit the engine mount. Used a couple Mcmaster Carr rubber isolation mounts and powder coated the whole thing. The gray doesn't match particularly well to the engine bay, but whatever.

So thats about it. I'm guessing by the end of this week i'll have the gas tank back in, connected up to the new fuel lines, and have the lines held in place with some kind of bracket, etc.

Note: cheapo tubing benders have a hard time with this tubing. Mine got bent out of shape bending the 3/8" stuff.

-Tony