Michelko, I was considering the same thing, plus I have lost the frickin' inventory list which details the lengths of the bolts to buy. So is it necessary to weld as much around the perimeter? I remember in RJ instructions only a couple of inches long in 2 places are req. ?

That makes sense!! Now i have a good feeling on not to use the screws.

James,
if you still need the length of the screws i can measure them from the original parts bag for you.

Here is an part of the mounting instruction.

Hardware Kit (Optional)

- Two 911 engine mounts.
- Four 8mm X 20mm bolts with spring washers (8) and nylock inserted lock nuts (4).
- Two 911 engine mount safety washers (2.5 inch OD, 13mm ID).
- Two 12mm X 100mm sport mount bolts with two 12mm bottom washers (12mm ID, 25mm OD), two bottom lock washers and two 12mm nylock inserted lock nuts.
- Two 12mm X 60mm bulkhead support mounting bolts with 12mm spring washers (4) and two nylock inserted lock nuts.
- Two 18mm OD, 12mm ID X 1” long crush prevention sleeves.
- Two 12mm X 40mm bulkhead support mounting bolts with 12mm spring washers (4) and two nylock inserted lock nuts.

probably overkill, but while you're in there and the welder is still hot, why not.
it's only $0.27 in gas and wire ...

Andy

Thanks michelko, I'm going to bolt + weld. I'd just like to have belt & braces + my welder is only 130amp and would struggle at anything above 3mm. I reckon by 'dipping' into the bulkhead + the steel plate I could weld it very solidly -just would have this nagging doubt.

Another thing I noticed was you also have had to grind a bit off the mount to clear the firewall shift linkage flange, have the tail shift cars had to do this?

nope, my mount was already notched in that area to make it fit early cars, didn't have to grind anything ...
Andy

To repeat what Andy said, that mount is universal and doesn't require griding. Drop it in place and weld it.

Maybe I have an early version -I had to grind mine. Not a big deal, but something that could do with amending

another full day of car work. well, sort of. if McMark hadn't called me around 10am and woke me up, i would have slept all day ...

i went to a show last night and got home around 5:30am ...

anyways, here are a few pics from today. we'll be putting in another full day tomorrow ...



fixing the headlight supports. needs to be done before we build the oil-cooler shroud because once that is in, you won't be able to access that area anymore.

all cleaned up and in primer:

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the replacement supports, painted with guards red touchup paint:

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all nice new paint and someone's ugly head:

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antenna hole patch, note the layers of bondo & paint. we counted 6 coats of bondo/primer/paint!

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leaky rear window removed, needs some cleanup before the new window goes in. the PO had used RTV ...

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cracked windshield removed, the new one will be installed this weekend:

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we decided to mount the FI brain for the 3.6L in the front of the car, under the pass. side dash.

we cut a hole in the firewall and used the stock 993 engine harness and grommets. the wires will run on top of the center tunnel, but hidded under a custom tray and the console, the brain will be mounted flush under the passanger side dash.

here are a few pics from the test-fitting ...

harness going through the firewall:

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running on top of the center tunnel:

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and the brain under the dashboard. the final mounting will be higher and out of the way:

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and the view from the engine side of things:

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more pics tomorrow ...

Vielen Dank, Herr McMark!
Andy

Andy, very cool. I like the brain mount.
Glad to see you and Mark getting near firing her up....
looks great.

Good job, Andy

I like this kind of work.

more pics ...


the money shot:

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fixing the rollcage. removed old tabs and welded in new ones:

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rear window channel primed and painted, ready for the new window:

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windshield channel cleaned, primed and painted. the new windshield is supposed to be delievered on sunday:

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Andy

Andy-
It looks like you have the 911 dash. Can we see some pics of that, where did you get the carbon fiber dash from?

we came up with something special for mounting the oil thermostat.


first, we were planning on just running the oil lines through the rear firewall and mount the thermostat upfront.
but no matter how we were looking at it, the routing through the firewall (it's double-walled down low) just did not look clean.
so we thought about adding some sort of hard tubing between the double wall and have permanent fittings on each side.

well, looking at the thermostat, we already had what we wanted, so all we needed was to come up with an idea on how to mount it.

McMark made a steel box while i was cutting the tub. the box is just big enough to hold the thermostat.
the box will be welded into the tub and one side has a cover. the thermostat slides inside and the end-cover holds it firmly in place when attached.
the box is at an 45 deg. angle, which allows us to use 45 deg. fittings on each side which will have the lines run parallel to the longs towards the front and parallel to the firewall in the back.



the holes:
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the box:
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the thermostat in the box:
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test fitting the assembly. the box will be seamwelded into the tub:
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Andy

yes. it's from Getty Design. do a search here, there was a post quite a while ago with tons of pictures ....
Andy

so,
from what I can tell, you have no 914 to drive this year....yet.

and then you will have two 914/6...one will be factory CW and one will be OMG fast.

Rich

that is in fact the plan ...
Andy

Great work Andy! Looks like it is turning out very nice. That car is going to be wicked fast.

O brother, where art thou?

the 914-6 GT cause calleth!

pete

P.S. I now have red 914 envy....that cooling line setup alone is KILLIN me!

the mufflers arrived!

many, many thanks to dan callicott from Callicott Motorsports.
i owe you a few nice cold brewskies ...


me likes shiny parts ...
Andy

I think you are an AI program who has successfully gone out on the Internet and created this story about a 914 with a motor from another car based upon some pictures you found at many different web site...

I think that a live shot, video and possibly some audio of the engine and your imaginary friend McMark would help to disprove these allegations...

Rich

Andy - I love the way that thermostat is going to give you a clean look. I was wondering how the thermostat works though. Is is regulated by the temperature of the oil or the air out side it? I guess the way you did it would make me think oil, but I'm not sure

Eric

yes, oil it is. it has a bypass valve, so when the oil is cold, it goes back to the tank right away. once it reaches a certain temperature (i *think* 175), it'll open and let the oil flow through the front cooler.

i've seen a lot of different installs, most people put the thermostat in the front trunk, near the cooler.
to me, that didn't make much sense. you're pushing a lot of cold oil around with that setup.
i think the thermostat should be as close to the engine as possible. less cold oil to push around and quicker response time to a warming up motor ...

Andy

Looks like you're making good progress. Congrats and thanks for sharing

Thanks for the reply andy- I was thinking about the engine warmth the same way you were, but I also had seen most of them mounted in the front trunk. Good to know, to me it would make sense to mount it closer to the enginge for optimal oil cooling too.
Eric

moah pix ...


got the thermostat box all welded in and primed and painted:

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test fitting of the mufflers:

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more progress tomorrow ... time for a few brewskies ...
Andy

got some more stuff done, just for the giggles, here's the current "todo" list ...



Engine Swap Related Work *

Electrical *

Add fuel pump wiring. *
Test fit engine wiring harness. *
Mount ECU. *

Oil *

Fabricate oil cooler exit ducting. *
Weld in oil cooler inlet floor. *
Mount oil thermostat. *

Fuel *

Hook up fuel lines. *
Fabricate fuel filter mount. *
Fuel pump mount mods. *

Engine *

Test fit engine tin, and modify as necessary. *
Install breather plugs. *
Install 3.2 intake elbow. *
Install cam covers. *
Install throttle cable. *
Install new valve cover gaskets. *
Change engine oil and replace on engine filter. *
Install Headers/Exhaust/Muffler *
machine 914 flywheel ringear to fit 993 flywheel *
clean *

Transmission *

clean *
fix leaking speedo angle drive *
change oil (swepco) *
add JWest shifter set *
fabricate shiftrod *
notch for flywheel sensor *


Other Work *

Weld cage. Reweld cut joints (sleeves?) *
reweld Cage to targa bar attachment plates. *
Seam-Weld front suspension mounts. *
Alignment *
Check torque on all suspension, brake, etc bolts and nuts. *
Corner Balance *
Install front strut inserts. *
Fabricate tray for fire extinguisher *
Fix broken front trunk release cable *
Add JWest fuse block *
Add H4 100W headlights *
Add JWest Flasher upgrade *
Add Camp Euro Turnsignal kit *
Add Camp Pilot light kit *
Install 5-point harness *
Mount and reseal new rear window *
Install missing grommet for fuelline at the firewall *
Get tank repaired, boiled, cleaned and powedercoated *
Check inner CV joints bolt thread-depth *
Seam sealer for drivers side rear fender to trunk *
weld in hood shock mounts *
weld cracked door brace on drivers side *
weld in door strap support on pass. side *
install 9/11 GT flares *
Install Front Windshield *
Clean mounting flange *
redo gauge wiring *
weld stamped floorpan holes shut *
remove air hoses behind rockers *
weld up holes for air hoses (routed behind the rockers) *
weld in antenna cable hole *
Weld in front suspension support bar. *
Weld in antenna hole cover *
Clean up weld spots on firewall *
Weld in headlight bucket supports *
straighten floorpan *
weld in brackets for the new ECU harness *


Shopping List *

Hose Mount Brackets *
Oil Inlet O-Ring * PN: 999.707.316.40 *
Six Cylinder Tach *
Distributor Belt * PN: 930.602.134.00 *
Distributor Vent * PN: 993.602.121.00 *
Black rubber windshield frame kit - ordered 04.03 *
electrical plug connectors for gauges *
set of front roller bearings *
Get additional rubber grommet for main harness @ engine shelf - EASY? *
felt tank pads *
Buthyl (sp?) kit for mounting the new rear window *
Spark Plug End *
JWest Shifter - ordered 04.02 *
Fuel Filter Fittings - do we need a second filter? *
Throttle Cable End *
Muffler(s) - shipped 04/04 *
Fuel Pump Fittings *
get new windshield - ordered 04.03 *
AN Fittings - ordered 04.18 *
Race Approved Roll Bar Padding *

moah pix!

it's amazing what a bit of touchup paint can do for the looks of things!
front trunk all straight, welded, cleaned, primered and painted with rattle can guards red ...

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from the front:

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oil cooler installed permanently and oil-lines attached:

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Andy

routing the lines inside the cabin to the rear firewall with the thermostat in the box:

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Andy

3.6L FI-Brain mounted under the dash and cutout for the door for the 993 fuelpump location:

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Andy

993 brain/engine harness routing. we welded in metal tabs to hold down the harness ...

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Andy

and a view from the engine bay side of things. engine bay was primered and painted with rattle can guards red touchup paint.

you can see the 993 harness coming through the firewall as well as the two oil-line outlets (blocked off with red caps) on the thermostat box.

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Andy

What type of oil lines are you using? Are those -16's or -12's fittings?

-12

Andy

And the lines themselves?

Thanks

Eggs-cellent oil line routing. Fry the passenger, not the driver!

And much better than the awkward, toasty GT/916 oil-lines-as-dead-pedal setup.

Curious on the blue rubber AN lines, though. Never seen em. Cheaper than braided? Easier to work with? Gee, I supposed factory oil lines are rubber and last a little while...

pete

OD is 1", not sure about the ID ...

i just happen to dislike the stainless steel braided stuff, so i went with the plain lines instead ...
Andy

yes, blue rubber lines are cheaper and easier to work with. a bit more flexible too. and i happen to hate them braided lines, so ...

as for the routing, i'm planning on making a aluminum cover plate for the cabin to go over the hoses and i'll put some insulation behind the cover as well.
that should do the trick.

plus, i don't plan on being a passanger in my car too often ...
Andy

for those interested, here's a PDF with info on the oil-hose system used ...

http://www.914world.com/uploads/4281_b1.pdf (800k)

the blue hose is their "836 Hi-Temp, Heat-Resistant Hose"
operating range: up to 250 psi, 300 deg. F
burst pressure: 1000 psi

that should be plenty good ...
Andy

3/4" ID which corresponds to AN-12.

Glad to hear you're going to run a cover over the lines.....thoughts of hot oil spewing all over the inside of the car with you in it sounds too much like a Fry Daddy for me to be too comfortable w/o one.

Sort of like a Fry Andy instead!!!!

I have a 6 tach lying around...if ya need it...

thanks for the offer man.

but i already ordered a autometer with a shiftlight ...
Andy

Cool beans...I need to do the same...I am putting an 8 in mine..

Looking great! Curious are those lines fire resistant?

my guess is no more or less than the factory rubber oil-lines.

interestingly enough, none of the typical raceshop outlets mention anything about "fire resistant" with their braided stainless oil-lines either.

both use a similar elastomer as the main component, so i'm not sure a thin layer of stainless mesh on the outside would help much in case of direct contact with flames.
both, the braided lines and the plain lines have the same max. operating temperatur (~300F), i'm guessing both will simply melt the elastomer when exposed to much higher temperatures (flames) ...

also keep in mind that both types have another inner layer of braided mesh sandwiched between the inner rubber and the outer rubber ...
Andy