Glad to see that corner came to good use.

Sorry it was so rusty.

The piece was still 100x better than what I took off.

Any tips for dislodging the spline? It seems to be rusted on. I've been soaking it in Aero Croil.

I can't see that the axle is disconected on the trans side (it should be) but you can thread the axle nut back on upside down and flush with the end, and then use a BFH to break it loose back through the hub.

You have to remove the trailing arm to get it out any further!

I just did this last month. You wont be able to pull the hub out of the bearing that way. You can remove the axcel and then pound out the hub and bearing but I found it easier to just remove the trailing arm and do it on the bench. That way you can leave the axcel, CV's and stub still attached and slide it back into the hub when you put the arm back on!

Here is the motivational photo!!!

I finally dislodged the spline. Aerocroil, time, and a BFH did the trick.

Correct about the axle still connected to the trans; there was still plenty of play between the CVs to loosen the spline from the hub.

With my newly unemployed status, I put the rear end back together again and will focus on some longitudinal rust repairs since I have plenty of metal, cutoff wheels, gas in the welder tank, and time on my hands.

Time to repair the driver side interior floor and inner long. The goal is to make the car as tight as possible spending the least amount of money.

The car has a reconstructed title after the wreck (see post #1) and is questionably not worth a whole bunch. The floor and longs should be replaced in their entirety but I will cut out the bad and replace with new steel like I did on the passenger side.

Note the trianglular replacement panel in the bottom. This was done by the PO.

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I will continue to rebuild the inner long with panels such as the one shown here in 16ga steel. The PO placed a 16ga panel under the rotted out long and up the outside of the long. I will tie into this with about 2 or 3 of these plates, then cover with an Engmans inner long kit.

The gold flakes are from grinding some braising away.

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Not much left of the crossmember. It's going away too.

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Note the tie plate on the inner long to the floor. This is braised in and will be removed.

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More of the braised plates.

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Notice the hole to in the wheel well to the right.

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Like the passenger side, the inner long is completely gone all the way along the interior.

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Had to remove the E-brake mount.

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The E-brake mount is toast. I will cut off the bolt and sleeve and make a new bracket.

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Cleaned out the bottom of the long. Prepping for the replacement pieces.

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Removed all the rusted pieces and rusted floor.

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First replacement piece ready to be welding.

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Rebuilding the inner long

Prep for adding the last inner long piece.

I cleaned up all the tar and rust proofing. The PO had braised the metal in. The new piece will come through the wheel well and attach to the existing 16ga long metal.

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The part of the patch to the inside of the wheel well was hiding some ugly rust. How shocking!

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The new inner long material installed. I ground down as much of the braise on the existing long metal and welded.

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Inner long is now solid metal from front to rear.

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Fabricated a patch for the drivers side floor.

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The channel is raised on the inside and has a piece under the car which is raise to the outside. I decided to weld this bottom piece on the entire length of the channel. I don't think the original bottom piece spanned the entire channel.

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The 2 pieces welded together. To protect the inside of the channel brace, I poured cream-colored lacquer that I had laying around which of course overflowed and got on everything.

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A pic of the inside of the channel

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Welded in place.

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OK, so I cut out all the rusted material on the wheel well. The problem is the wheel well piece is a complex piece with several bends. So I will make this 2 pieces; one with the concave bends and tack weld surface with the floor, and the other with the simple flat concave

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This is the first piece with the most complexity. I made the tack weld surface and curves then sliced the metal so to make the concave shape.

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Ready for welding.

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The bottom piece welded in place.

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And the upper piece welded into place. Franken914 gets some more stitches and lives yet another day!


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Great work !!!! Keep going !!!

Jack

Driver Floor corner piece.

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Instead of drilling holes to "spot" weld, I made slots to weld between.

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Installed

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I need to replace some of the channels in the floor. I could (and should've) replace the entire floor pan. But then again, I'm a CSOB. I bought enough 18ga metal to do the entire floor for $5 from a local metal shop so I will continue to replace in pieces.

I made channels before by making all the bends one at a time. Quite time consuming. So I made a jig for making the channels. Right now there are 4 pieces:

2 pieces to set the channel width. These mount in a vice and can be adjusted for width.

1 piece to pound the metal into the channel

1 piece to make a channel end.

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Here are the channel forms in place.

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The channel is formed by pounding on the jig where needed.

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For making the channel ends, this piece can be screwed into the channel form.
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This piece will finish the floor next to the long. 2 channels terminate in this piece.

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Here the piece is ready to weld.

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Great work!

Awesome work! Keep plugging away!!

Very nice!

The front channel rusted through in a couple of places so I'll replace the entire channel.

Also rusted is the circular plug so I'll replace this with another smaller channel.

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Looks like the original.

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And welded in.

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The floor under the cross brace wasn't rusted through but was thinned, so time to replace it.

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New piece ready to go.

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Done. More stitches to Franken914.

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Great work.

Are you a plastic surgeon by any chance? You could make some money in Hollywood...

John

Making the driver side crossbrace. Used a 2x3 with an extra piece for the right width. An extra piece makes the bump-out for the parking brake switch.

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All trimmed up and ready for welding.

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Done.

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Great work!

Little patch on the footwell

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Patch on the inner firewall. This mess will be covered by Engmen's inner long kit.

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The back of the floor was pretty much a mess so I replaced the last 2 channels with a new piece. Also completed the brace parallel to the long.

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The original handbrake mount was really rusty so I cut off the post and bolt and made a new piece. This is 14ga steel like the original

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New handbrake mount welded in.

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That is some nice work.

Installed the driver seat mounts. Welded some nuts on the underside of the mounts so I can bolt on the hinges.

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For now, I'm using the same hinges that the PO used to support the seat. Welded 2 bolts onto the part attached to the seat runner and 2 bolts will attach the hinges to the mounts.

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Got the seat adjust bracket remounted.

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So I cut the hole for the e-brake warning light before mounting the crossbrace and survey says I missed the correct position.

I cut a new hole with my Dremel and welded the scab piece back in the original hole location.

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Finished welding in my Engman's inner long kit on the back and the driver's side. Took my time welding so as to not twist the chassis.

I'm now finished with the interior de-rusting so I rattle canned the floor and firewall.

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I never liked the little channel for the e-brake cable to transition through so I will try a different method to get the cable to turn. I welded a bolt onto a piece of 14ga steel then to floor and I will put a nylon wheel to allow the cable to move back and forth.

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When I cut the tunnel open to repair the clutch tube, I decided not to weld the holes shut so I made panels and attached by speed screws. I used the pieces I cut out to help center the panels.

Here's my solution to getting rid of the ebrake channel to turn the cable towards the firewall interface.

The bolt is welded to a 14ga plate then to the floor. The roller is free to turn on the sleeve. Works very well with virtually no deflection when the ebrake is pulled to its max.

Installed the new carpet kit and put the interior back together.

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Spoke,

Came across your posting while searching for fuel pump relocation info. Very nice indeed!! You sure put alot of time and love into this 914. Can you tell me what fuel pump you used and detail the hose connections from bulkhead, tank and pump? I want to update mine as well using a 2 port pump. I would appreciate your input.

Thanks,
Jim

Jim,

First off,



You should start a thread about your car, post pics and ask questions there. You will get a wider response from the World that way.


The fuel pump is the later 2 port type.

From the fuel tank large port, run to a filter, then to the pump inlet (larger port).

From the pump outlet, to one of the center tunnel fuel lines to the engine.

Then return back from the engine in the other center tunnel fuel line and into the tank smaller port.

Pretty simple. I'm assuming you have fuel injection and not carburetors.

Thanks. Can you tell me where is the best place to buy the pump? Manufacturer, model#, etc. I am moving and once my garage is complete, I'll bring my '73 and start a thread about it. It is stock and has fuel injection. I moved my old pump up front, but my first pump leaked through the check valve and my second pump leaks out of the body. This is why I want to go to a newer, cheaper and readily available pump and dothe complete re-plumbing job. Again, thanks for the info.

Jim

Getting ready to convert to 5-lug. Will be doing the work next week while I have a bit of time.

Front end is from a 72 911 with M calipers.

Rear end is using the hub from the 72 911 with vented rotors, widened 914 rear calipers and cut (by Eric Shea) rear 911 rotors.
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I had to replace the stock studs with the vented rotors so I went with 66mm studs which provide more than adequate threads.
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Tires are Riken Raptors; 205/50/16 on 6x16 for the front; 225/50/16 on 7x16 on the rear; and 195/60/14 on 5.5x14 for the spare.
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Very nice caliper pad retaining clips from Eric Shea at PMB.
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The 5-lug process has begun. Doing the front end first.

Started with the drivers front. These replicas will be for sale soon.

It scares the crap out of me to get under or even beside the car with the entire front off the ground. I used 2 jackstands on each side along with the floor jack.

Drivers front is done. Got big boy pants on now.

Eric Shea restored calipers are pretty.

Started working on the rear suspension when I had my "oh shit" moment.

After reading all the threads on converting the rear to 5-lug using 911 hubs like I had, I absorbed absolutely none of the facts of what I needed to do to use the 911 hubs.

That is until I removed the half-shafts from the car and compared the 914 hub to the 911 hub. Then it all came crashing down. I needed to get different shafts and trans flanges.

At that point I decided to go with drilled 914 hubs and use screw-in inserts and sell the 911 hubs/spline/CVs (they are sold).

Eric Shea provided some beautifully drilled and tapped hubs.

I'm using these 65mm race studs from:
65mm ACS Race Stud

wow, perfect timing or JIT.

Put the rear swing arms back together.

Freeze the bearings in the freezer and heated the arm with a heat gun on low. The bearings dropped right in without outside force.

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Freeze the hubs in the freezer and heated the arm & bearings with a heat gun on low. Ratcheted the hubs right in with very little force.

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While I'm in there:

Always had a bit of a backfire as well as cylinder noise on the drivers side proportional to the throttle position. Figured it some exhaust leak.

Here's the culprit: broken weld on #1 exhaust tube. The opposite bolt was loose as well.

These pics are the same as in my other thread about vented rear rotors.

This first fitment with the rock shield bracket under the caliper mount shows the caliper not centered on the rotor.

According to Eric Shea, the rock shield is required for road use but the bracket cannot be under the caliper mount.

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Here's the proper fitment with the caliper mount fastened to the swing arm ear.

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I still needed the rock shield so I modified the bracket to go on the top of the caliper mount.

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To mount the rock shield on top of the caliper mount, a little of the caliper webbing needs to be filed.

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Here is the modified rock shield bracket ready for the caliper.

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With the rock shield bracket on top of the caliper mount, the caliper is properly spaced about the rotor.

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Had to pull the fenders out on each side. Have just a bit of room. I'll need to roll the fenders a little more then smooth out the wrinkles.

Love the big boy wheels and tires on the back.

I just read your entire thread...Amazing work!!

Time to debounce the tachometer. I'm tired of seeing the tach needle bounce all over the place when I shift gears or rev the engine.

The 914 tach is underdamped meaning the tachometer will respond quickly to changes in RPM but will oscillate after the change and settle to the correct RPM.

Something like the red line below is desired. The tach will respond a bit lower to quick jabs of the throttle but should not bounce or oscillate upon every RPM change.

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Here's a quick video of the tach without damping.

Standard Tach Performance

An easy way to damp is to add a capacitor directly across the winding of the needle armature. I've found that early tachs have a more complicated circuit and simply adding a cap across the armature not only settles the needle but causes the needle to read about 1.5x the actual RPM.

So I purchased a 74+ tach and added a 2200uF capacitor across the armature. The cap was just hot-melt glued into place and 2 wires soldered to the circuit board of the tach.

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Here's a video of the tach with the 2200uF cap installed. The tach is much more damped and doesn't wildly overshoot like before.

After Compensation