Tom, you may want to offer a one-off price on that one, the copper alone could bankrupt you
Full Version: Fuse block for red wires from batt
Is it Andy or Zach who has the Limo project?
Tom, you may want to offer a one-off price on that one, the copper alone could bankrupt you
Tom, you may want to offer a one-off price on that one, the copper alone could bankrupt you
Yes, I expect that the wiring harness would be a major project!!
Tom
Tom
Tom, put me down for a $30 setup.
QUOTE(Tom @ Feb 15 2012, 12:29 PM) 
I found some 1/8" X 1" bar stock that I think will do the job nicely. I will include a larger piece of heat shrink that can be placed just under the fuse block area if anyone has any concerns.
I don't supply the mounting screws or bolts to mount these kits. Some may want metric, others std., so I will leave that up to the individual.
I have, previously, stressed the importance of good solid connections in electrical systems. The system is only efficient in carrying current and voltage as the poorest connection allows. So I will put together the 4 wires and connectors between the battery positive and the fuse block if you so desire. There will be a slight charge. $2.50 per kit. See pic #2.
Basic kit will be $25.00 with shipping included, $27.50 if you want the connectors installed, and $30.00 if you need a new battery connector shown in the pic. The connector on the wires to the battery is the same ID size as OEM, so if your positive batt connector is in good shape, they will fit the stock bolt.
There are 5 days left before I order parts.
For you guys who don't desire a kit, be advised it would be a great idea to check your wire condition at the connector to the positive connector. I dissected my connections and was surprised at how many strands of the original wire were broken due to vibration. On one of the 2.5 mm wires which had 32 strands of 0.28mm copper wire, over half were broken. What this does is cause trouble in trouble shooting electrical problems. That wire would read continuity just fine, voltage just fine under no load conditions, but under load would drop excessive voltage. Any of you who have the hot - no starter issues would do well to closely inspect this area and maybe put new connectors on. Just for your info, the 4.0mm wires have 55 strands of 0.28mm copper wire. Spent some time on the computer trying to find out why different wire companies make wire different. Gets too involved for this thread. US standard seems to like 19 strands of different dia. copper wire to make up different current ratings for most of the more common sized wires.
Later,
Tom
If its not too late I will take the $30.00 version. Do you take paypal?
I'll buy a kit.
Thanks.
Thanks.
OK, I'm going to order parts. If you posted here, I have you on my order list and I'll be getting payment info to you via a PM.
Thanks,
Tom
Thanks,
Tom
Tom,
I sent a pm, but its not showing up as a sent message in the control panel.
Did you get it?
porsche914gt,
No I sure didn't. Must be some setting on your controls. I need to know if you want a 4 way or a 6 way. Same price. 4 way is the one in this thread, pic of 6 way attached. Also what type, basic, connectors on and soldered and if you need a new battery terminal.
Scott S, sent you a PM.
Thanks,
Tom
No I sure didn't. Must be some setting on your controls. I need to know if you want a 4 way or a 6 way. Same price. 4 way is the one in this thread, pic of 6 way attached. Also what type, basic, connectors on and soldered and if you need a new battery terminal.
Scott S, sent you a PM.
Thanks,
Tom
So when are these supposed to ship?
Got an e-mail from the parts supplier and the parts have been shipped, 3/7. So I should have the parts no later than Saturday, 3/10. I will get them out as quick as I can.
I wanted to post my completed install pics to show the cable clamps and nylon ties. It is important to secure these areas to prevent vibration from damaging the soldered connections.
Thanks,
Tom
I wanted to post my completed install pics to show the cable clamps and nylon ties. It is important to secure these areas to prevent vibration from damaging the soldered connections.
Thanks,
Tom
Tom,
I missed this round. But am interested if there is a 3rd round.
I missed this round. But am interested if there is a 3rd round.
New info post #1
Tom
Tom
Parts are all here and I have begun work on these. Over half are going with the 6 way fuse block. Remember when you are hookin up things where you want what amperage fuse to go and be sure to use the corresponding ga. wire for that slot. For mine I run 20 amp fuses for the two 4.0mm wires and 15 amp fuses for the 2.5mm wires. The kit comes with 30,25,and 20 amp fuses. The 6 way have two additional slots. Also remember that this fuse block is rated for 65 amps max. Unless you have upgraded your alternator, you could discharge your battery if you are using it to max. Attached is a pic of a sheet I put together to try to determine amperage during operation.
After you get all installed, it is easy to determine which fuse powers what by removing one fuse and then seeing what no longer has power. Make yourself up a small sheet to carry in the glovebox or your Haynes manual to help with troubleshooting.
I will start shipping on Wednesday 3/14. Probably only a few per day, so it will be a week or so to get them all done.
You should be able to save the pics to your files and print copies as needed.
Thanks,
Tom
After you get all installed, it is easy to determine which fuse powers what by removing one fuse and then seeing what no longer has power. Make yourself up a small sheet to carry in the glovebox or your Haynes manual to help with troubleshooting.
I will start shipping on Wednesday 3/14. Probably only a few per day, so it will be a week or so to get them all done.
You should be able to save the pics to your files and print copies as needed.
Thanks,
Tom
Thought I would post a couple of pics of the connector attachment process I use to ensure a very good connection.
In the first pic #1 you see the wire stripped back 1/4" and the female spade connector sized to fit a 12 ga. wire. Takes a little manipulation of the connector to get it just slightly larger than the copper.
#2 you see the crimp completed.
#3 you see the soldering completed. The hemostats are used as a heat sink to keep the solder from "wicking" up the wire.
#4 is where the heat shrink goes on and in the second pic #4 you can see the second piece of heat shrink over the spade connector.
I had posted this process before but did not have the correct size wire and just wanted it shown the right way.
Tom
In the first pic #1 you see the wire stripped back 1/4" and the female spade connector sized to fit a 12 ga. wire. Takes a little manipulation of the connector to get it just slightly larger than the copper.
#2 you see the crimp completed.
#3 you see the soldering completed. The hemostats are used as a heat sink to keep the solder from "wicking" up the wire.
#4 is where the heat shrink goes on and in the second pic #4 you can see the second piece of heat shrink over the spade connector.
I had posted this process before but did not have the correct size wire and just wanted it shown the right way.
Tom
I'll take a $30 setup if you have extras now or put me in for one if you do a third round. I need this. Had a meltdown years ago in a 72 model. Don't want that to happen again and this is a good safety measure. Thank you in advance.
I received my 'kit' a couple of days ago, Tom. Thank you 
These are fantastic. If you're going for more, I'm in.
Tom,
I'm gonna need the upgrade kit for the 1st series I bought, as called out in SB#TomTToTheRescew-1
I'm gonna need the upgrade kit for the 1st series I bought, as called out in SB#TomTToTheRescew-1
Got my kit installed...
I only used 1 set of holes in plate and also cut the pvc in half..
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Thanks Tom...
I only used 1 set of holes in plate and also cut the pvc in half..
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Thanks Tom...
Ken,
Looks good. Two feet was just right. I put those numbers on with cellophane tape just so your would know which connector went to which fuse. It probably won't last when exposed to heat.
Tom
Looks good. Two feet was just right. I put those numbers on with cellophane tape just so your would know which connector went to which fuse. It probably won't last when exposed to heat.
Tom
Update for those waiting for your kit. I had to reorder some heat shrink as what I ordered would not perform as I expected. I ordered 1/2" for the piece that covers the spade connector and it just doesn't shirnk enough to make me happy. I ordered a new bunch of 3/8" and I expected it to be here by Saturday, 24th. Didn't come, maybe Monday. I have most of the rest of the kit done, just need to get that 3/8" shrunk on the 100 plus wires and finish them up and package to ship.
I had enough to get 5 kits shipped by last week, and I hope to have all of the kits shipped a few days after the material arrives.
Sorry for the delay,
Tom
I had enough to get 5 kits shipped by last week, and I hope to have all of the kits shipped a few days after the material arrives.
Sorry for the delay,
Tom
Parts came in 28 March and so far have shipped 10 kits. I PM'd the guys I shipped to. Hope to get the rest out in the next couple of days.
Thanks for being patient,
Tom
Thanks for being patient,
Tom
QUOTE(Tom @ Mar 29 2012, 06:32 PM)
Parts came in 28 March and so far have shipped 10 kits. I PM'd the guys I shipped to. Hope to get the rest out in the next couple of days.
Thanks for being patient,
Tom
I didn't get my PM.... 
QUOTE(Black22 @ Mar 29 2012, 09:47 PM)
QUOTE(Tom @ Mar 29 2012, 06:32 PM)
Parts came in 28 March and so far have shipped 10 kits. I PM'd the guys I shipped to. Hope to get the rest out in the next couple of days.
Thanks for being patient,
Tom
I didn't get my PM.... You will tomorrow, I am working on your kit right now as soon as I get off this computer.
Tom
QUOTE(Tom @ Mar 30 2012, 01:27 AM)
QUOTE(Black22 @ Mar 29 2012, 09:47 PM)
QUOTE(Tom @ Mar 29 2012, 06:32 PM)
Parts came in 28 March and so far have shipped 10 kits. I PM'd the guys I shipped to. Hope to get the rest out in the next couple of days.
Thanks for being patient,
Tom
I didn't get my PM.... You will tomorrow, I am working on your kit right now as soon as I get off this computer.
Tom
Only
you Tom! Thanks again for doing this.
Got mine yesterday and it's a work of art. Thank
Put me down for a $30 6 way kit... round 3 or if there's extras before then 
New info in first post. Round 3 begins. Let me know what your needs are.
Tom
Tom
Ok, make mine the whole shebang $37. 6-way, assembled harness, and new battery connector. Thanks.
(1) 6-way, stage 3 please.
Does this require drilling holes into the battery tray to secure it?
Thanks Tom!
(edited to add the battery connector)
Does this require drilling holes into the battery tray to secure it?
Thanks Tom!
(edited to add the battery connector)
Jorge,
That is what this kit is set up to do, but you can use any method you feel OK with to secure the fuse block. Just keep in mind that there are soldered connections involved and this was designed to clamp the harness to minimize vibration to the soldered connections. I drilled two small holes in my battery tray to fit 10-24 screws.
Tom
That is what this kit is set up to do, but you can use any method you feel OK with to secure the fuse block. Just keep in mind that there are soldered connections involved and this was designed to clamp the harness to minimize vibration to the soldered connections. I drilled two small holes in my battery tray to fit 10-24 screws.
Tom
Put me down for (1) 6 way stage 3 (new batt connector)
PM sent. Thanks!
PM sent. Thanks!
Hi Tom,
Mine arrived Friday. You do beautiful work!
Thanks very much!!!
Scott S
Mine arrived Friday. You do beautiful work!
Thanks very much!!!
Scott S
My kit arrived today, and it looks really good.
Thanks, Tom
Thanks, Tom
Scott S, porsche914gt,
Thanks, You're welcome. I try hard to do a good job for you guys.
Tom
Thanks, You're welcome. I try hard to do a good job for you guys.
Tom
I just unpacked mine Tom...you do some pretty amazing work! Are you sure you're breaking even on these kits! Wow! I appreciate it and I can't wait to install it! 
Yep, I get about a beer or two from each one. It isn't a money maker, it is a safety thing for our members. Least I can do for the great membership here.
last of round 2 kits went out with the mail today.
Thanks to all who participated so far and round 3 is open for requests,
Tom
last of round 2 kits went out with the mail today.
Thanks to all who participated so far and round 3 is open for requests,
Tom
6 days left before I close this round and order parts.
Tom
Tom
QUOTE(Tom @ Apr 6 2012, 03:02 PM)
6 days left before I close this round and order parts.
Tom
Hi Tom!
I'll take the $37. 6-way, assembled harness, and new battery connector.
Thanks, Mark (computers4kids)
PS Do you want payment now? Thank you for making these for us.
I'll PM you with payment info after I order the parts.
Thanks,
Tom
Thanks,
Tom
Tom, please add the battery connector to my order. Just checked the one in my car and it should be replaced. Thank you!
Thursday morning this round closes. So far only 7 have answered up.
Scotti, sent two PM's no answer.??
Tom
Scotti, sent two PM's no answer.??
Tom
Round closed, Ordering parts. I will PM all who requested one.
Tom
Tom
Hi Tom -
I came across something interesting last night. Went to install my kit and found that my car only has 3 wires coming out of the main harness. The harness looks to be completely original and untouched.
I have not yet pulled the wiring diagram to see if different year cars are set up differently. Mine is a 1972.
I was going to still use the kit, but the one wire coming out of my harness is a significantly larger gauge and would require a much larger connector, and then a much larger secondary wire to the battery after ther fuse. I dont think there is room in the fuse block for the heavier gauge.
Here is a pic...
I came across something interesting last night. Went to install my kit and found that my car only has 3 wires coming out of the main harness. The harness looks to be completely original and untouched.
I have not yet pulled the wiring diagram to see if different year cars are set up differently. Mine is a 1972.
I was going to still use the kit, but the one wire coming out of my harness is a significantly larger gauge and would require a much larger connector, and then a much larger secondary wire to the battery after ther fuse. I dont think there is room in the fuse block for the heavier gauge.
Here is a pic...
QUOTE(Scott S @ Apr 13 2012, 12:03 PM)
Here is a pic...
hm....I spotted another problem...you motor also has 2 extra cylinders...
it does now...... but it wasn't born that way!!
Scott,
That is sure different! I would be willing to bet someone has modified the wiring harness. Check the 14 pin connector at the relay board to see if two 2.5 mm wires go to pins # 12 and #14. If so, the check the fuse panel under dash for a 4.0 mm wire going to fuses 10,11,and 12. The other 4.0 mm wire goes to the key switch at terminal 30. If you have those 4 wires, then someone has spliced somewhere.
I have a possible solution however. On one of my orders, I made some mistakes and received 3 in-line water resistant type fuse holders that take ATC type fuses. I measured the wire and it is 4.9 mm, probably 8 ga. Attached is a pic. You would need to cut the wire wherever it would fit best for you and then splice and put on a connector.
Let me know and I'll send it to you with a couple of 30 Amp fuses.
Don't know why someone would use such large wire, that size could handle the entire car's load.
I can't tell from the pics, but are the two smaller wires 2.5 mm or 4.0 mm? That could give us a clue as to what wires may have been spliced.
Tom
That is sure different! I would be willing to bet someone has modified the wiring harness. Check the 14 pin connector at the relay board to see if two 2.5 mm wires go to pins # 12 and #14. If so, the check the fuse panel under dash for a 4.0 mm wire going to fuses 10,11,and 12. The other 4.0 mm wire goes to the key switch at terminal 30. If you have those 4 wires, then someone has spliced somewhere.
I have a possible solution however. On one of my orders, I made some mistakes and received 3 in-line water resistant type fuse holders that take ATC type fuses. I measured the wire and it is 4.9 mm, probably 8 ga. Attached is a pic. You would need to cut the wire wherever it would fit best for you and then splice and put on a connector.
Let me know and I'll send it to you with a couple of 30 Amp fuses.
Don't know why someone would use such large wire, that size could handle the entire car's load.
I can't tell from the pics, but are the two smaller wires 2.5 mm or 4.0 mm? That could give us a clue as to what wires may have been spliced.
Tom
ROUND #4 is open!!
Early cars (1970-72) only have three red wires to the battery+ terminal. The two smaller wires go to the relay board, the single large gauge wire goes to a terminal block under the dash where it splits into smaller red wires that continue on. Check the factory wiring schematics for details.
My apologies for the late post, things have been nuts as we just closed on our 1st home! I wanted to make sure to come back and thank Tom for the kit! It arrived quickly and looks great!
Salud,
Salud,
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.