First off, thanks to all for the good words on my shroud. I am flattered.

From what I understood of the FP controller is it was there because the fuel demand at idle and WOT is quite different. No need to have the system at full pressure at idle.
I thought it had 3 different duty cycles. Could be only 2?

I had a fuel pressure gauge on my car, in the start, but it is no longer on the car.
Best I remember is 45 PSI at idle. It may ramp up near 100 PSI at WOT?
Edit: (I just found the old gauge, it's stuck at 20 PSI. So there is no telling what pressure at idle was.)

I was going to go get a new pressure gauge last week because my car suddenly just quit.
It was dark but everything seemed fine . Air, fuel, spark??
Sitting in the drivers seat, I reached under the glove box and wiggled the wires to the controller, they all felt fine. Originally my controller plug was cut from the harness so I used individual spade plugs, figured that could be the problem.
It started so I started driving home. It died again on the way home. I wiggled it again. It felt fine, started, drove home.
Still no pressure gauge but I have not had a problem with it.

My thought on yours. With out a turbo, it's just not needed.

I am continuing on with the harness, I have finally gotten all the wrap off it and will begin stripping it down tomorrow! Holy cow my fingers hurt!

I for got how long it takes just to strip the sheathing. FWIW, I as reading some Suby stuff the other nite and apparently it was used on '03 sixes. I didn't see any mention of it's use on any other 6 so................. who knows?

I used a bit of filter magic on an earlier post of mine.
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Yeah I'm getting flashbacks...that was mind-numbing.

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Whatever you do don't take the wires off the hooks! Leave it organized like you have it. I had a spaghetti mess. Totally my fault.

Hey Ross I keep forgetting to mention an idea for a floor vent air exit when I was going that route...just to minimize the water situation in the trunk and the air directed back instead of down I was going to try some louvered panels in the floor. This link just shows an example, not the ones I was planning to use...not sure if that would be enough holes but there are a lot of sizes and widths you can pick from. Or you could get a custom set punched in a flat panel (no idea what that costs... ).

Louvers

It's getting there! Hopefully just a couple more days of work!

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I've finally gotten the harness trimmed to about there I want it. It will need a few more wires removed, but I'm going to make sure it starts first!
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I also got the turnbuckle belt tensioner working. I tested the fit tonight, tomorrow I'll cut off the eye loops and weld on flat brackets in their place. It should work with cars running AC too, just a slightly different belt routing.
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Once you finish that harness you want to go get drunk. Good job, Ross.

Hey thanks for posting that tensioner! I need to make one of those. Tried to find a belt that was exactly the right diameter but it still slipped and squeaked like crazy.

It works pretty well! The belt I used is a Dayco 6PK0730. 29.4 in outer diameter. I'll let you know about the squeaking once I get it started up!

Amazing how much extra crap there is in a wiring harness!

[quote name='rnellums' date='Apr 2 2014, 07:30 PM' post='2019776']
I've finally gotten the harness trimmed to about there I want it. It will need a few more wires removed, but I'm going to make sure it starts first!

Is that the SUPER MULTIPLE JUNCTION (SMJ) with just one wire going through it?
From 40 wires down to one. Almost there

No SMJ in that pic. It gets tossed.

Made lots of progress this weekend! I have gotten the gas tank pretty much buttoned up, and am starting to get the engine in position so I can figure out what I'll need to do to get it to fit.

So first: the gas tank.

I borrowed pretty heavily from Kent's thread on his install of the subie fuel pump (from a legacy I think?) the biggest difference in mine is that I wanted to use the EZ30 fuel pump, but the pickup was too short.
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I ended up modifying it with a bit of flared copper tubing to extend the pickup and place it where I wanted it. I'm using the stock 914 fuel screen clamped to the end of my copper pipe as a strainer.
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When I started fitting the pump to the tank it was wide enough that the side of the tank started to round off, making installing the rivnuts difficult. I ended up bending and pounding the mounting area flat before installing the pump.
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Also, a glamour shot of the "Heaven hole" and the engine getting into position for the first trial fit!

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You're working fast! The tank looks great. Hey if you're planning to copy Kent's hose sizes like I am (which are a copy of Bob's) let me know. I have 50 FEET of 7/8 Gates green stripe indestructible hose that I got for very little. Can send you 15 feet or so if you want.

Looks good, Ross. Did you get a pic of how you tied the copper in at the pump? I'm trying to remember what the problem was with it when I tried to use that same pump. IIRC, I was planning on using some surgical tube to connect their plastic sock to the pick up tube. As a matter of fact, I still have that tube in a glass jar filled with gasoline. I wanted to see if there was any degradation of the tube in gas. That was Sept 1, 2013. I'll pull it on it's anniversary to check again. It was fine after 3 mo's., though. Does that fuel sender need to be spun 180? Did you finish your wiring? If so, where did you connect the WL wire tagged "starter cranking"? Yellow starter wire or switched ign?

I'm afraid I already bought some hose (wish I hadn't now!) but I appreciate the offer!



Kent, I dont have a great photo of it, but I'll attempt to explain with these. The stock fuel pump has a tiny outlet nub, too short to reliably attache a fuel hose to IMO. The stock fuel strainer is a fitted plastic cap with an elbow headed to the strainer. In Subaru's wisdom the tube headed to the strainer is U-shaped so you can't attach a hose to that either. What I did was cut the strainer fixture at the elbow, insert it over the copper before I flared it, and then use the stock strainer fixture to clamp the flared copper in place. I added a spring washer as well to improve the clamping force.

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For the fuel sender, I am contemplating shorting it and eliminating the float and sender circuit altogether. Do you see any issues with that? I haven't finished up the wiring yet, but I'll probably go to the yellow starter wire, I'm not aware of any other connections that are only hot in the "start" key position.

I don't see any issues with shit canning those two items. You have the stock sender to use. I thought that the WL wire might go to that tab on the ign switch that goes dead when cranking but is otherwise hot in the on position. I guess the ECU interprets that signal.

I finally got the engine in! No clearance issues to speak of as far as fit goes. I'll have to cut some space for the intake, and likely a bit of the top of the cable clutch fork, but the engine is in! Only 4 inches of ground clearance though, and even less once the exhaust is hung below it.

Is there a minimum clearance for lowered cars?

I also got an OBX exhaust in today. It's SS, and I'll probably end up cutting it after the flex joints and going straight into supertraps instead of all the way to the collector. what about cutting it before the flex joints? Thoughts?

Ross, would you mind adding another pic like the first one but with a ruler next to it. I'm interested in the distance between the top of the flange and the bottom and top of the pipe once it goes horizontal. IOW, I want to see how close to the ground the bottom of the exhaust would be on my car. We have different cradles so I need to measure to see if theirs would work for me. BTW, how much ground clearance did you end up with? TIA, Kent

EDIT: Never mind on the clearance. I went back one page and read your comment on this. I ended up w/ 5" as I believe Chris' was, too. This is what the distance from the old cooling flap to ground clearance was, also. Have you adjusted your shock perches, yet?

I have attached the pic with a measure. These headers are pretty tall. If I go ahead and use them what is currently about 4.5' ground clearance will be reduced to 3". I checked ride height compared to my stock -4 and the two car are pretty similar (although the race car is much stiffer).

Ross, that looks to be about 6" from the top of the flange to the bottom of the pipe, yes?

Really its nearly 7, I plan on ovaling the bottom of the pipe a bit to get more clearance.

I wonder if they will sell the flange w/ the oval to round piece that has the O2 bung welded in. That would help me a lot. I want to go over the cradle with my exhaust for ground clearance and ease of removal when dropping the drivetrain. I think I could make those work if sold separately. High Jack over and out.

To be honest that's why I ordered the exhaust in the first place. I figured there would be some customization. I'd like to run the exhaust over my subframe, but am a bit worried about driveshaft interference.

I don't think that will be an issue but I haven't seen one of Ian's cradles either. FWIW, they make exhaust fittings in 45, 90, 180 and even 360 degree (full circle). I want to use a 2.5" dia 360 degree cut it to give me two 165 degree fittings which will bring me up and over my cradle as well as a bit towards the outside.

Made some more of these up. 2.5" tubing . These turned out to be 4" high from the base of the flange to the bottom of the tube. Going to use these on my turbo install.
Its no trouble to weld O2 sensor bungs into the pipes.
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Bob

So I have seen in a couple places that the intake on the EZ30 can't be flipped, which makes it a pain since the intake then rests right next to the trunk firewall, but this image seems to say differently. And anyone here tried flipping it? I gather there might be some casting lugs that need to be ground off, and the alternator will need to be relocated, but any other reasons?

Isn't yours a "D" model? I don't think that is a D in the pic.

Yes, Pictured is an "R", but the ports are similar enough. I'm thinking It may be possible to flip the Aluminum manifold as well. It may just require grinding down the extraneous casting on the aluminum manifold at top right.

I decided against it for some reason that I can't recall, now. Either it was not worth the effort of I saw something that said no-way. It's hard to cut on a nice body but once you do the next cuts are easy. It should not protrude into the rear trunk too far. Maybe 3"? Maybe BIGKAT 83 will chime in.

This was done with a eg33 also by Brody from 914s gone wild with a clean cut Click to view attachment

Here's my set up with the ez30r with it flipped same guy who is helping me build mine built the eg33
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Hey Ross, I figured you went to shit and the Hogs gotcha! Then I read where you are polishing Calypso for the show. When are you going to get back on your conversion?

I've been working, just not photographing! I've built up the fan shroud and radiator mount and completed running the fuel lines (using the same bent hardline technique you used). The fuel pump and tank are totally in now, and all I need to do to finish up the coolant system is to bend up some aluminum tube (which I already have) in the locations where the rubber hose is kinking!

I'll see if I can snap some photos tonight and get them up!

About time for an update. I am finally starting the final wiring process. I hooked it up and turned it over just powering the starter last night. Then I hooked up the fuel pump and I can't seem to build pressure, I suspect due to a leak at the sketchy pickup I cobbled together. I've new parts for that en route, but decided to take some spare time and make note of the ECU pin-outs.

Here is my intended engine wiring circuit for power distribution!

A couple of photos of my cooling setup. I made up an aluminum shroud that sits directly under the radiator, and have bolted the high flow SPAL fan to the other side, so I'm afraid you can't see much.

I know the cons of venting through the floor, and would prefer to vent into the wheel arches, but I already had a hole there from the PO, so I'll use it for now.

The radiator is a clean Volvo unit. I think out of the 240's. Its small, but thicker than stock. Hopefully The fan is able to pull enough air!

The coolant hoses will both return under the gas tank and then be routed back through the longs. I have more robust elbows coming for the tight bends so it won't kink as ween in the last photo and rubber edge protector for everywhere i basses through bulkhead.

You have been working! FWIW, flaps have these small spring thingies that slip over the hose and will keep it from kinking. Or, use old pieces of wet vac hose which will also guard against abrasion.

The wet vac hose is an excellent idea. It may also add a bit of insulation and keep the passenger compartment from getting so hot!

BIG WEEKEND!!

I started it up for the first time! I only ran it for a few seconds ad everything is only halfway hooked up, but it still felt like a big step!

In other news I starting to finalize the cooling system routing. found that it makes sense to run solid aluminum lines in some places, but the cost for pre-flared pieces with a bead was exorbitant and a bead rolling tool is a couple hundred.

I saw on a Shelby forum that someone made a manual bead-maker out of a pair of vice grips, and I gave it a try. I feel like it was a huge success, now if I could only get the cramps in my hand to go away!

Wow you're really moving on this one. Nice work.

Wahoo Congrats

I'm not a big fan of the radiator laying down in the from trunk. My v8 was setup that way & it would not cool. The forced air is lessoned quite a bit that way. Having said that my suby setup barely has an air inlet & it cools fine. So it will probably work just fine even if it isn't really my thing. Great progress on your car. Getting it started for the first time is huge. Congrats

Hey Ross, I just ran into this today so thought I'd ask you. How much tranny oil did you use. Book called for 3.8qt's but if the center diff is removed and some other mass is also removed how much gear oil should we use? Also, when level the dip stick said full with only 1.5 qt's. If I tilt the tranny down enough the dip stick reads closer to true. I'm going to go with the recommended amount and read the dip stick when it's in the car and pretty level. It really is sensitive to for/aft angle when measuring the tranny fluid. High jack over.

I agree that laid flat definitely won't be as efficient, but my car was already cut for AC so I figured I might as well try this first. Plus if it does work I can still use my front trunk!

I haven't filled mine yet, but I'll probably use the recommended amount or until the dipstick says full, whichever is more fluid.

Also, with regards to the speed sensor issue, I'm buying a 2001 2.5rs 5MT that has a 3 wire sender for the ECU. I'll let you know if that works !

Now I'm trying to figure out how high to mount the shifter. Pics to follow soon.

I finished up the coolant plumbing this weekend! Everything from the windshield forward is complete for initial test driving!

I also hit up the junkyard Saturday and found a 2003 legacy outback H6 in there, apparently I had just missed the engine, but I grabbed the gauge cluster to use in the interim while I decide how I want to do my dash gauges.

I also pulled the engine back out and swapped in the 2001 2.5RS transmission with the correct speed sensor. I made up some custom axle lockers out of some old CV's and driveshafts too.

Speaking of driveshafts, my coldwater 914 order came in with the sway away axles and I should be able to get those put in by next week. The biggest hurdle I have this week is the clutch actuation - I'm hoping to stick with a cable clutch and run a bellcrank linkage near the rear of the transmission.

My list of things I need to finish up is getting smaller and smaller!

Way to go Ross. I know where you can get a couple of gages ready to go if you want to remote that board. Yours for the shipping.