Good job!

Wow! It has been a while since I have updated this thread!!

Fast forward two years and I am now out of grad school and working in Denver! After a few seasons of auto crossing and a few track days I decided I wanted a power plant with similar power to my 2.4L big 4 but with better street ability so I could enjoy driving it at places other than the track!

After much deliberation I settled on this. The Subaru EZ30. I'm intending to base my build heavily on 76-9 14's because of the phenomenal level of documentation included on every step of the process!

76-914's thread: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=201776&hl=

So far I have acquired the engine and a temporary inexpensive transmission, along with Ian s engine Cradle.

Hopefully my car won't be out of commission for to long!

It's coming together!
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Sweeeeet! Looks like a nice clean engine to start with. Did you get the ECU or are you going aftermarket?

I should be getting the ECU delivered today along with some other goodies like the harness and fuel pump etc!

fun....

I want a ride when its finished

I'll give you a call in 5 years!! But seriously, I'm am ambitiously hoPing to have her running in about three months!

Seems impossible At the moment though!!

I spent some time tonight working on the 2nd subaru conversion lock. Using directions from here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=104513 . I know it's not that expensive to just buy the locking sleeve, but this was free. What do you guys think? Will it hold?

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Sweet!!!!!!!

Today my neighbor stopped by and dropped off an old fan he wasn't using. It's massive, but it also came with an adjustable temperature Controller which might be useful. It's an old Hayden model, made in Canada circa 1986, and the box says it's rated to cool up to a 4 L engine.

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Nice welds! Maybe you can flip that fan around and power the car with it. Should work fine with a tight fitting plenum. I'm glad your going a different path here. We can eventually come up with a good combination of known working components by trying new/different techniques when possible.

I'm laying my plan out for the accessory belts. I don't plan to run A/C, and I have no need to run the power steering pump, so I plan to remove those from the system. The idea is to attach the alternator on the swinging end to a turnbuckle type strut connecting it to the engine case, and using the alternator itself as the tensioner, much like the layout on the 914. I've drawn my anticipated layout on this image.

Anyone see anything that looks absolutely terrible?

My neighbor(same one with the fan) was kind enough to lend me some time on his 240 Miller for that welding. What a nice machine! I'm headed to the junkyard tomorrow to scope out what radiators fit the dimensions I'm looking for. My current fall back is the 00-05 Toyota Celica radiator, but tomorrow will be eye opening.

Monday marks the start of the wiring work!

Check out the Toyota MR2 Radiators. I got an aftermarket one, but the dimensions work really well in there. The MR2 Turbos were something like 200 HP which puts it in the right range for the EZ30D.

Pls excuse the quick Hijack Ross but it seems a good time to mention this. I like your belt lay out for the omission of the PS pump and A/C. I mentioned this to you; I found that my method of removing the PS pump will NOT work because the geometry just isn't there. i.e., not enough swing in the tensioner from it's new angle. I will post this later in my thd but wanted to mention this in case anyone was going that route. Hijack over.

The 818 kit car guys have this option: alternator bracket if you don't want to do your own design/fab work.

That's looks pretty handy! Thanks. I think mine should be able to bolt on without any fabrication, but that will make an excellent backup.

Being a CSOB, and I hate to say it, that is a good deal. He has $40 in hardware and materials, alone; plus paint, labor, etc.

I picked up a radiator from the Junkyard today for fitting and mockup. It's off a 1982 Volvo. I understand that by doing a conversion I have to make some sacrifices, but I don't really want to give up the front trunk.

To that end, since my car already has the front trunk floor cut out, I am going to try mounting the radiator flat on the front trunk floor, mounting my pusher fan above it, and sealing it up with a floor panel similar to the stock panel. Hopefully that will a allow it to form some kind of duct!

The oil cooler will be removed as well.

If it doesn't work I'll switch to the more traditional vertical radiator.

Fans work better pulling air than pushing. I am also not a huge fan of giving up the front trunk yet, I am also not a fan of putting air under the front of the 914. If your going to do it. Run a deep front spoiler to create a negative pressure area under the front to gel hold the front down, maybe. As never ducting under the car tis is not first hand knowledge. I am sure Brant has thought long and hard on cooling of 914s. While they are oil coolers much of his finds would translate into a radiator setup. Especially since you want to see the track with this car.

I will be watching this thread though, looks like a great build.

I agree that I would prefer to dump the air to the wheel wells. What is not visible in those photos is the large hole already cut into my front trunk by the PO for the oil cooler exit, making this a relatively low-risk experiment. I picked up an enourmous 14" puller fan from the junkyard while I was there getting the radiator, but the ducting is going to be much easier for the pusher fan, so I may try that first and see if it cools adequately, and if no, switch to the puller fan.

I got a bit distracted last week while hanging out with a friend in his garage! It's enough to make anyone jealous!!
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I got back to it this weekend. I spent close to 6 hours outside in 15 degree temperatures and snow pulling the wiring harness or of the donor car! I had no idea how much work that was going to be.
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I shop potent last night adding flags to the connectors on the harness preparing to start cutting.

Before I do, are there any systems that seem like they should get cut but are essential?

I don't envy you sorting that maze out! Your brain will want some recess at the end of each evening.

I finally got every connector flagged according to the manual tonight (manual downloaded from this sweet source: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/).

Then I spent a few hours carefully nailing it to a piece of plywood to keep things organized when I start to cut!

It was a ton of work on the front end, but pretty much everything should go smoothly from here out (I hope).

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Ross, is the pump controller in there? Shit, I just remembered that you needed some #'s off mine. Anyway, have fun and keep a clear head while working on it.

Where would it have been in the car? I pulled the entire loom and didn't see anything like that.

The fuel pump controller is located in the trunk, right side over the wheel well.

I don't remember anything like that. hmm. Looking at my harness guide, I don't see anything labeled like that either. Any chance it is integral to the H6 fuel pump?

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source the turnbuckle from a 944 r 928. they used that setup for the belt tensioning Very simple, and very effective

Has anyone found a wiring schematic as to what is and is NOT needed for our conversions ? That is the part of this I really dread doing. I hate wiring

Also if it helps you or anyone else, I have factory service manuals 2-6 for '92 SVX. No wiring, but it does have the fuel, emmisions, engine, trans etc. Looks like everything BUT the wiring



Scratch that I DO have the wiring book. Let me know if you need any pics from it.

That looks like the sch from an Outback. If so it was located on the back seat,left side and half way up by the antennae/stereo junction. I thought it was part of the stereo and looked like a small amp to me.

For an 3.0 or 3.3?

So my harness matches the diagrams above perfectly, I don't have a connector on the LH above the wheel well. Harness and engine are out of a 2001 legacy outback if that helps.

Scotty, I'm going to make a list of which connectors I cut and which I keep as I go.

On the radiator setup, you might want to look at PJ Haun's website if you want to put it in the floor.

PJ Haun's Site

Definitely want the fan to pull the air through the radiator, not push it as Stephen said. PJ has a fan under the rad and a lip to a create low pressure area.

I was dead set on doing mine that way til I saw Mike (Ruby914)'s setup.

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He put the radiator a lot closer to the front of the car than most and then made that awesome carbon fiber ducting. Could be done in fiberglass too, which I might try.

My mistake. I saw the hatchback lid and.....duh. Go with SVO's input then. I remember the pump being in the trunk behind the R seat. It will be close to the pump. BTW, do your homework before selling the copper scrap. A lot of hustlers in that trade.

that's the nicest setup IMHO. I also plan to do something similar

Now I'm all confused. I can seem to keep all the models straight. It came out of a 2001 H6 wagon. But I still don't have the connector.for the pump in the harness. Is it labeled in the wiring diagrams?

That definitely looks awesome. That's the route I think I'll take if the flat radiator doesn't cool enough. The floor has already been chopped out on mine by the PO, so it doesn't cost me anything to try it. If cooling is insufficient, then I'll switch to the fender well ducted setup.
Thanks for the pointing link!

This is what I have been wanting to do for years...

First, I posted 2 pic's re: the controller and plug but listed them in my thread. IIRC 11 month's later, after the harness comes alongside the psg door it continues past the R back seat. At that point it split. Some of it continued to the back lift door, some of it went behind the R rear wheel well and onto some senders around the gas tank and the branch you want went directly behind the rear seat.Once it is behind the L rear seat it winds it way around and beneath the L rear seat and continues back to the psg side where it connects to the pump. The harness that the controller connects to is sheathed in grey and went from the harness behind the L rear seat then back about 2 feet and up about 1 foot off the floor. I think it is directly below the antennae junction on the L rear glass behind the L rear seat. But then again, I can't even remember what I ate for breakfast this morning. Kent

So this may sound like I am taking crazy pills Kent, but there is no wire like that in my harness (at least not back by the rear seats). The schematic I have doesn't even list an R-122!

I looked up the schematic from a 2003 outback legacy than there it is, wire R-122! Looks like they made a change in the harness between those years which is disappointing in that I can't just go though and cut what you cut!

I am trying to get a couple more day of driving in before I take the car down for the rest of the conversion! Also, my current engine and tranny package is going to be up for sale soon! 2.4L high comp with MSD, remote oil cooler, and weber 44s, and my built 901 with quaiffe TBD. Looking for around 40 for the package!

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In your factory manual; is there a page in the wiring sch's section that reads "Fuel System" or Fuel Pump" at the top of the page? Should be 2 of them. One for the 6 and one for the 4 cyl. Also, Look for two yellow wires. One with a blk stripe and one with a red stripe. Those are the + & - to the fuel pump. Maybe work backwards from there. Do you still have the car available to you? If so, can you shoot some pic's?

No access to the car I am afraid. The closest thing to fuel system is "fuel gauge", but still no controller.


In the 2001 engine wiring harness it shows more connections to the fuel pump, but they all go to the ECU or the fuel pump relay, which is controlled by the ECU as well.

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In the schematic I have for the 2003 model, it does indeed show a fuel pump control module. I'm thinking maybe I don't need it after all?

2003 Schematic
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Yup, looks like your right and I may have over thought this entire thing. Because after looking at both I see no difference, essentially. After all, I have cut most of the wires out of R-122 and the only ones necessary are those to the pump and pump relay. The relay needs to be on a switched and fused circuit and as I see it the rest will follow. Which brings me to: what the Hell does it do, exactly? If it controls anything it must be on/off. Because as I understand it the pressure is regulated at the rail, not at the pump. What say's the collective on this matter? Might have to take this one to a Suby board and get flamed.

Yeah I'd be surprised if there is a separate "controller" for the fuel pump, what R122 might do is monitor the tank sensor, solenoids and stuff shown in the diagram which you won't use. Maybe the pump won't run if the tank pressure is too high which R122 is in charge of monitoring ? Ya know, stuff like that.... On the SVX the power to the pump is controlled by the ECU. You run it through the relay then to the pump. Simple, just need "on" or "off" I think but you have a different car so I could be wrong. If you still want to ask about it 25RS is a much kinder place than NASIOC. They do swaps there too.

Double post! Dang ipad!

I was doing some reading on the LGT forum, it looks like the fuel pump control module adjusts duty cycle based on engine demand, but not in order to maintain a given pressure like the on demand fuel system, just to cut the pump duty (I'm pretty sure the Subarus still had a FPR at this point, mine is older). Looks like they swapped over to a compatible STI module because their legacy fuel pump control modules were limiting the fuel pump at max demand.

anyway, here's a 40 page forum thread if you have nothing better to do.
http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/...-143860p11.html

Great work man! I

Makes perfect sense once you figure it out doesn't it ? This wiring stuff will make you crazy... So R122 just cycles the pump to preserve it when not needed I guess. Kent you're not even using the original pump for that engine right ? Sounds like you MIGHT be able to eliminate that "controller" but you'll want to be careful with the wiring if you take it out...that's a complicated setup and it goes into the ECU it looks like. I'd do some searches on the Subie sites before you decide. Also might want to start the car once before you do that...

It doesn't cycle the pump operation, but it does cycle the pumps power supply. It's a Pulsed Width Modulator, it basically drops the voltage that is delivered to the pump by supplying different length bursts of voltage that average out to whatever lower voltage they are aiming for (12Volts pulsed to average out to 8 volts).

My guess is they did it to extend the life of the pump/pump motor, maybe reduce evaporative emissions slightly?

I didn't find out what happened if the R122 was removed, I'm guessing the computer may get upset, possibly go into limp mode assuming it has no or little fuel? It looked like they grabbed some STI R122's and plug and played them, allowed them to get higher output from their pumps. Their whole issue was that the voltage the pump was receiving was reduced by the R122 to only 12 volts (even at max demand) instead of battery voltage (13.5 ish) so the fuel pump was not delivering as much as it could and became a limiting factor for systems that were at the upper end of what the fuel pump could deliver (they were pushing injectors to 100% pulse).

For whatever reason the STI R122's would give them a high maximum demand voltage than the Legacy GT R122's and that allowed them to deliver more fuel.