Very cool!

Was just showing (bragging to) Kent that I did this yesterday....


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajYeJMkHopY


Will update my thread also. Without even driving it yet it seems extremely powerful compared to the 1.8 that was in there. It was late so I couldn't let it rip too loud but when you rev it up it sounds like a wild animal. I don't think I realized how fast the car is gonna be.

Whoot! If you were running a 1.8 before ANYTHING will be an improvement. A BIG congrats! I will be updating my exhaust in the near future to sound like yours. My wife isn't in to "sport" mufflers.

Sounds pretty good to me.

Well you should recognize the sound Bob since you made the exhaust! And the engine mount... Wait..what did I do ?

I'm chasing an oil leak now...sound familiar? Right under the middle of the timing belt cover. I think it's just the oil pump seal. Nothing at all on the belt itself, must be behind it. Only leaks when running. Trying to figure out how to get the crank pulley off without taking the engine out. Looks like there are a couple of options.

Note to self...NEVER say "I'm gonna update my thread TODAY." Something bad always happens!

Super sweet and so smooth. ...

Thanks for letting me drive it

I'm thinking about getting a vinyl wrap to spice up the plain silver of my car. What are everyone/anyone's thoughts on urban camo?

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Photoshop

I'm too old to comment on anything new.

I made one of the best investments of my conversion earlier this week.
It consists of a Bluetooth OBD II scanner and the Torque app for android. Not only does it allow me to read and clear engine codes while troubleshooting, but I can also see any relevant gauge in real time and log those metrics (along with gps) so I can review them later.

It. Is. Awesome.

Cool, Ross. I bought one of those wifi for my iphone. I got it to work on my PU but not the 914, yet. I like the real time feature. I paid $20 for the transmitter and 5 for the app.

So a quick update, I've got about 1200 miles on the conversion with a few hiccups. First, I had a CV come apart on me on the way to Moab. Second, at highway speeds unload my coolant temps start to creep up. At some of the passed here in Colorado I find myself having to go easy on it! I spoke with Rick about how he cooled the alien and he suggested the coolant might be passing through the radiator to fast, not allowing any time for heat transfer.

I'm also mocking up my plans for conserving the front trunk cargo area and test driving as much as possible to look at its effect on cooling. So far it seems to work well enough!

The flywheel is screwed down as a weight to hold the board in place.

Without the cover

Did you make your front opening a bit bigger and seal it off? Given the hour, I doubt you've tested it but when you do let's hear the results! Looks like a sound idea you've got going...

Could you describe your increase in temp when on the Hi Way. IOW, does your temp begin to climb after "X" min's regardless of OAT. Is it fine until you exceed "X" mph. Which of these 4 do you suspect? Run time, distance, OAT or speed. When the engine is fully heat soaked do Hi Way temp's come up more quickly? What are your temps on the inlet and outlet sides of your radiator? Does pulling to the side and letting the engine idle bring the temps down?

Could you shoot a pic from the front Ross? Would love to see your inlet opening.

Thanks.

This is what I was running out to Moab. Temps crept up at 90 up passes, but in town and the canyons are fine.

Nice!

Don't mess with this 914.

Your car looks great, Ross. Keep us posted on your results.

The car drove to the track and back from the track (80 miles each way) so i'll consider the day a success!

A few of the high points:

• The chassis still handles beautifully, basically just think where you want it to go and it complies! especially with Nitto NT-01's on it!
• At the end of the back straight I was hitting 105-110, similar to a lot of the other high horsepower cars out there and I could drive WAY deeper into corners.

In addition, there is something about a track day that identifies weak points!

• The cooling system is not yet sufficient. I could run for about 15 minutes before my temps would start to creep up higher that I was comfortable with and I had to pull off and let it recover. I'm planing on putting in a slightly larger dual pass aluminum radiator. I'll see if that helps!
• I used a piece of all-thread in my clutch linkage, after a few sessions I was pullng into the pits and th thread sheared off (tensional failure) I need to go to a larger diameter rod or a cable setup. Something to do for next time!
• One of the clips on the coil packs has broken, so the connector slowly vibrates loose and I start getting a miss. It fixes easily enough, but is annoying.

Overall, I would call the day a success!

-Ross

That does sound like a good day! Is your front inlet still the same size or at least sealed off for more directed cooling? And which part of your linkage was the allthread?

Weld a bolt on the end of that all thread. The steel of that all thread is much too mild for that purpose. Between all of us, we may come up with a "one size fits all" cooling solution.

The inlet was slightly larger than previously, but was better ducted. The clutch uses the stock clutch cable roped to a bellcrank that pulls the linkage to the clutch fork. That linkage broke. Just using a steel cable should work nicely!



I keep going someone else well come up with a cooling solution that fits in the engine bay or conserved the front trunk. I'm sure someone will get there eventually!

I'm planning on switching to a hardened steel rid with custom cut threads for the new linkage.

Ross,

Have you seen this site?

Blue Thunder

Looks like what you want to do. Running a Buick 3.8L...take a look at his setup. That radiator looks pretty big as does the fan. He also angled the radiator a bit. Long time member, very nice guy.

If he can get that thing cool you can get yours under control.

Well for anyone who hasn't seen my Calypso thread, I damaged the front of Apollo a week or so ago.

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Its going to get fixed, but in the meantime I'm going to be starting to document the custom header setup I'll be building to replace my current pipes.


What I'm using currently is an aftermarket OBX header set that I chopped off before the collector and welded on two Harley Davidson motorcycle resonators.

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The upside is this system is incredibly simple. The downside is twofold:

First, the pipes are routed underneath Ian's cradle, which severely impacts my ground clearance (makes me cringe anytime I go over any bump)

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Second, the mufflers (resonators) are each built to handle 800cc spinning at 5500 RPM (2200 L/min), and I'm trying to force 1500 cc through them spinning at 6500 RPM (4875 L/min).

Marty at MSDS sent me an assortment of mandrel bends (some remnants, some new) which should be enough to get me started! I can't say enough how much I appreciate what Marty and MSDS do for our community, He has certainly been a big help to me!

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I also got a couple race resonators from Mark Z at Autoworks in Littleton.

They'll probably be too loud by themselves for street driving, so I'll likely end up porting them into a magnaflow 2 in 2 out muffler like this guy did on his 911.
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Or These 911's:

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My current is to use 2" pipes for the initial exit from the header because the bends have a tighter radius, and then transition to a 2.5" pipe at a flange where it passes through Ian's cradle. I'm not planning to do any flex pipes as the entire exhaust system will be hard mounted to the engine and transmission, which is soft mounted to the frame. Thoughts?

Bob's car was very quiet (for a Subaru). He did two mufflers into a center muffler. Here is a pic..

muffler

You can use a regular Camaro muffler, two in two out, that crosses between the transmission and the valance, fits and works great, cheap, super easy to plumb, and an outlet on either side is kind of different. And you can choose the brand, Magnaflow or whatever, according to the loudness/sound you prefer. Or alternatively, what would be my favorite, a two in one out Porsche performance banana. Problem with that one is what transmission you used and how much clearance the cradle positioning the tranny left between the end of the transmission and the valance. Need to measure. That would give you that Porsche six sound, if that's something you like.

The Camaro muffler is almost exactly what I was thinking.

The Porsche performance banana muffler would be great, but i don't know if it is worth the extra cost to me.

I just drew a flange up in SW based on a scaled photo I took of my flange gaskets.

I'll probably have these water-jet cut out of 3/8" mild steel if anyone else is interested. Having 4,6,8, or 10 cut is only going to be marginally more expensive than having 2 cut.

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These people have EZ30D flanges in stock

Bob

I was hoping someone would chime in with something like that! I'll put them on order tomorrow!

I'd still be working on my car if it weren't for Bob's Hints!

Don't know if you read this ? May help with the heating problem ? Motor is a 33 and may not apply.

Eg33 swapped 2002 WRX owner right here. Partial install shot right here.



http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthr...gine-swap/page8

Some things:

1) Do not skimp on cooling on this motor. They have cooling system issues with pump cavitation at elevated RPMs and will boil coolant quite easily if used on track in OEM format. It's highly suggested that you remove the thermostat from behind the water pump inlet, and move it into a universal thermostat housing in the upper rad hose. This is the best and most simple start to a series of small mods to assist the cooling. Stepping up the inlet neck to about 40mm also assists the matter.

2) Get an oil cooler on it, period. Oil temps in these motor skyrocket without one.

3)#5 con rod is the one that like to blow due to oil starvation at high rpms. Motor like heavywiehgt oil.

4)This motor loves to breath. Cams and porting will be it's best friend.


etc etc. I've got more for you if needed.

Been driving my car every day, swinging to 7500 all day long.

Crossover tube in the exhaust messes with the scavenging effect that makes the IRIS effect shine in the plenum(essentially two stage runner length tuning on the fly)

PM or post if you have more questions. I can take other pics of my car if wanted

I hadn't read that one, but I have heard that non OEM thermostats can have difficulty with insufficient coolant bypass, and that opening up the bypass hole a bit can help.

My cooling difficulties only manifest under load at speed (like on the highway). my impression is that the coolant is not spending enough time in the radiator to shed sufficient heat when the pump is moving coolant quickly.

I just put in an order for a larger capacity radiator with more tubes that will hopefully slow down the coolant velocity through the radiator while keeping the overall flow rate constant!

Here is another one. (VERY LONG) I have not readed it yet.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=51702

I'm looking into rethinking a EJ20T swap and going EG33.
Randy

I have gone back and forth over wether or not I should have gone with the EG33 vs the EZ30.

EG33 has a lot to recommend it, like cheaper, more aftermarket support, more stock power.

EZ30 is more modern, easier to find a low mileage motor, longer maintenance intervals (timing chain vs. belt), and its physically smaller and lighter.

I guess if I had a do-over I might choose the EG33, but the proof is in the pudding. I'l stick with what I've got until someone with an EG33 conversion lets me take it for a spin (you hear me Mike? )

Yeah, I got ya! I've gotta take it for a spin first tho...!

Hey if you ever come back this way Ross you can drive mine (but not in the snow). Need to get a couple things done first, but late Spring we should be all set.

I drove Bob's EZ car and it feels pretty much the same as mine power-wise. Plenty. You'll get that exhaust thing sorted and the cooling situation and be good to go. His never got hot and we definitely gave it a reason to. Needle never even moved.

I've had both engines in my car. I think the EZ30D is faster than the EG33. The main reason I went from the EG33 to the EZ30 was the size and avialblity of parts for the new engine verses the old one.

I also have a EZ30R engine. These are the one to have 250HP. Megasquirt now has the code to run these. Now you don't need a $2500+ ECU swap these into a 914

The 30R will be my engine of choice for the next upgrade then! How much continual tuning is required when running megasquirt?

I have not touched the megasquirt on my EZ30D in over a year.

Bob

Here is another souse for exhaust parts.
http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/exhaust_systems.htm

Here is the summary page for the entire heating issue it might still be valid for other subaru engines.

Im working on a set of headers that gives me more ground clearance and also is a bit freer flowing. With 2.5" pipes this is the best I could do to clear Ian's sub frame. I have some 2" pipe bends that might be able to exit a bit straighter, but are much smaller diameter.

I could also modify Ians cradle to buy some more room.

Any input is appreciated!

They look nice, I like them, would love to see it bolted to the engine and how its going the thread through the cold water cradle. Still haven't figured out why Subaru went back to a common port? But heck 250 HP it must be working for them.

I think the only way to not have it drop below the cradle. Is to bring the headers to the front (towards firewall) Then join them or keep them separate but loop them back Down the sides above the cradle. Doable with a pipe bender. Another reason I was thinking of either doing a different mount that came from the firewall. Or bringing my exhaust forward then wrapping it around back. I hate that it drops below my cradle

I'll see if I can get that shot.



I looked at that, but with the water line return and shift cables where they ate at that looks like a big headache.

As built these come back up above the cradle and should be able to head above the axles from there.

The whole thing should work or pretty smoothly, but I'm wondering how much power I would lose by having such a sharp angle right at the exit.

With the current header mounted on the engine

I'm wondering about that angle too... and if it's really that close to your inside CV boot the heat is gonna be a problem. Subaru has a similar heat problem on the r. inner boot because it sits right above the headpipe Y and catalytic converter- lots of heat. How about a large pipe section, like 3-4 inch schedule 40 pipe intersecting the cradle for your pipe to pass through at a different angle? You could gusset it also for extra strength... I can't see all the angles so I may be way off base on that suggestion.