Scotty,

Hope you don't mind some questions about your work. Not meant to be critical - just trying to learn from your vast experience.

First, what type of welder are you using to get such nice "puddles" on thin material (pic-1) or welding on this thin channel without burning through?

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Also, do you go back and weld in small cavities (right side of pic3) or save them for finish filler and primer?

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Thanks for the insight and keep up the great job.

Miller 140 MIG for most of the welding and as far as the little crater on the outside of the weld goes, primer and a touch of filler does the deed.

Do you use gas or flux core?

gas

I picked up my engine tin and engine mount from the powder coater's last week. It all looks super sweet!

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Love the progress. More pics as they come, please.

Scotty, I know you replaced the exterior corner after you cut this out. What did you do about the crusty skin behind it--the outside of the trunk wall? I presume wire brush, ospho, etc...but were there no pin holes?

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Yep, wire brushed, Ospho and a coat of black, fortunately there were no pinholes

Do you seam seal the back side of those welds or not worry about it since it's painted?

A quick reference for what it looked like when I bought it.....

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Few More

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You're keeping the sunroof, right?

No sunroof, but I do still have it.

you should put it back on. Along with those nekkid lady mudflaps you're using on it

The PO said he found it in West Virginia, so that look might work.....

where's that sanding smilie ? I'll finish dealing with the bashed in door corner tomorrow

all ready to go back to Mike for the trunk and interior prep work

Pickled until I have some time and $ to spend on her....

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So I've been looking for one of these for years. Scored one on ebay at 1:00am this morning. Only paid $54! I think that's a sweet deal for an NOS part. I almost had a NOS 914-6 badge too but some auto snipers kicked the bid up to $261 at the last second! Zowwie!

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So Close...good luck ..hit the bone yards for more Fuchs..
says the 2 time customer.

I wish I knew. I have one and would have sold it. I need to list it

How does Scotty keep his socks so clean?

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Those aren't socks. That's a tan line.

Don't list it. Sell it to me. Send it when you send the 5 pack you were gonna send me. Never did tell me how much money to send you.

I bought a set of Pistons and cylinders here for $75. I expected to keep them as an extra set to play with. I opened the box and they are a set of unused KB 96mm pistons! stoked!
That was about the last thing i needed before engine assembly can begin....

So engine spec will go a little like this:
2056 with 2.0 case Fully balanced
KB pistons and AA cylinders
Rebuilt heads with new SS valves and new guides
Raby 9550 cam kit
Chromoly push rods and NOS tubes
D-Jet with NOS injectors and NOS air temp sensor (so far)
Triad twin exit exhaust
Powder coated tin

Car specs should be something like this:
Rebuilt side-shift trans
Fully polished 2.0 fuchs
Full PMB restored brake set-up
Tangerine fuel hose and pump relocation set-up
90% new rubber, OEM and 914 rubber
Scotty B body work and paint
Leather stock seats
New door panels and carpet kit from 914 Appearance
Under dash gauges (in the market for the gauges)
LE front valance
Chrome bumpers
et al.....

Built a Garage....
We use this shrink wrap stuff to store boats for the winter. I built a tube-frame then covered it with the shrink wrap. Voila! Instant garage. Now I can work on the car again

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Makes a nice love shack too

Scotty what was the primer and paint used? Looks like it was primered grey, then sealed with white but what was the redish orange it turned to or is the photo's not in sequance?

Also on my car I have a few pin holes in the front trunk channel above the fenders should I just spot weld to fill them in? Also the front channel is toast by the front trunk latch did you make the c channel or is there a supplier that sells it?

Sorry the the high jack!

The funky color was a sanding coat Scotty gave it. He sent it back to me to do the floors/trunk so I wouldn't hose up the new paint. Also he said something about some "real work". I think he meant a 911

the grey was a high buiild primer that got sanded smoth then epoxy was put on since it was going to sit for a while. Like Mike said. the red was just a guide coat to let me know where any high or low spots are when I go to do a fnial sanding.

for the trunk channel you either have to make it, or fill the pits with some filler. I use JB weld in that case. Just make certain you get it good and clean before putting any filler in or you will just waste your time.

Got the car all sorted in my workspace and started patching the floors. The pans were in pretty good shape with a few exceptions and I can't really afford all new pans, so a few well placed patches will suffice. My welding skill got much better as I went along.

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Pulled my dash out to make it ready for new vinyl. My friends at the sail loft/canvas shop have some special UV stable upholstery I'm going to check out.

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I need one of these

I started to remove the rear trunk pan. Using an air saw was very effective. Until the thing locked up on me. I'll buy another as this one was an old $40 unit that I borrowed from a friend.

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So, I just got my replacement panel from Restoration Designs for the trunk. What a beautiful part. I was thinking about making the cut just forward of the aft curve of the support, see image. Then using a flange tool to flange the car to accept the new part overlapping the car. This will let me do a better job of welding these pieces together. The rest of the spot welding can be done like the factory from the outside of the rear apron. The original brace can then attach on top of the cross member.

What do you think?

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How did you approach these rust holes? Did you replace the panel or just clean and weld using small pieces?

I cleaned and welded small patches. The pans were in fair shape, just a three spots that had rust-through. I cut out the sections and then used them as a template for cutting a doner I bought on this board. Not the best way to do it, but cost effective and easier than whole pans. I'm building this car to be a fun driver so it works for me. Carpet and undercoating will cover the patches.....

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Welded on a new engine lid bracket

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Tore down my front end a bit

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Painted dust shields

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Cleaning up CV Joints

I had some time this weekend and got the rear trunk pan removed. I cut along the trailing edge of the trans support. An air saw got the aft end of the pan removed close enough to the welds that I could grind down the remaining material with little effort.

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Nice work!

John

Front end is oot....

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Ok, any tips on removing the torsion bars? I got the A-arms off the crossbeam but I cant's get the torsion bars free....

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It is dirt in the splines holding it in.

Turn it vertical and shoot some PB blaster down there.

Wait a few hours then turn it over and wiggle it and whack it.

It should come out.

John

Nice work, that is going to look awesome. Keep the pix coming....

914 post count there , awesome job on the trunk floor.

Working on the restoration of the front suspension. Removing the torsion bars and bushings....

The torsion bars were pretty frozen so I drilled out the forward caps with an anular ring cutter and used a Mini Inductor to heat things up.

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Cool tool! It uses an electrical field to heat metal to white hot is seconds. The tool itself stays cool to the touch as does any non-metallic items in the field.

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Heats up in less than 30 seconds

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Then a little pressure with the press.

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I had a strut cap walk away
I have asked Rich is he has one, I may be in the market. You know it's going to turn up the second a replacement arrives....

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I pulled out my stash of NOS goodies to make sure I don't buy stuff I already have.

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