The ECU is a little disappointing. Not sure what I was expecting, but I have seen lunch boxes that are better built than the cheap galvanized box the FI brain lives in.

One thing I see is that there is a strap (Ground?) just hanging. If it is a ground it must attach somewhere. Anybody???

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

That's not a ground strap. It was a loop to hold up the wiring harness. IIRC

Probably going to look very stupid here, but what is "IIRC".

Seen this all over and am not familiar with the acronym.

If I Recall Correctly

I had an ECU that was rusted worse than yours ... I just sanded it down and rattle-canned it light gray.

You could probably just address the minor rust and spray it with a high-temp clear ... or have it re-plated if you really want to go that far

As for the bracket, bead blast and paint (or powder coat) it.


IIRC = "If I Remember Correctly", IIRC

Eric,

where is that part number sticker, on the bottom of the ECU ?

For reference. To be honest, I don't know if that is correct but that's the way it was set up when I got the car.

Great picture Dave...Thanks

Turk...Actually it's on the top under the bracket. Here's a better picture.

Click to view attachment

Bill,
Do you have any idea what is involved in such an endeavor? I do need Dr. Evil. Besides having some leaky seals...I recall the beginning of a grinding synchro in first and reverse if memory serves me.

You might want to PM the Doc. I attended one here, and it was a blast. Dr. E is one of the most unique and enjoyable guys you will ever meet. Now that he is a practicing physician, I can't say how much time he has to do these things, but if you can get enough interested folks committed, my guess is that he will find a spot on his calendar.

In my case IIRC means I have CRS but I'm trying man!

Gint...It's not that we can't remember, It's that after so many years, we have so much knowledge that no one brain can possibly keep track of it all.

PM the Doc....

If you get enough people attending and have enough food and drink I bet he would show up!

I was in St. Louis from 1987-1990 building F15E. This was the plate I had during that time. That is how I lost my blue/yellow original California plate.


Click to view attachment

I saw a similar guard on ebay, which led me back to bowlsby's page. he identifies the brushed gaurds as being made by Haneline. They seems to be around still, making brushed stainless dash gauge plates. Interesting that they are in Idaho, too? Seems sns classics is hainline, but I can't tell for sure what is up. It looks like they make rear bumper recess and throttle plate trim also.



http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/Accessories.htm

Well...finally got to around to the Hell Hole.

Guess it was too much to hope for that it would be perfect after 40 years. Some rust on the battery tray and a rusted out grove...not terrible though. Hell hole has a little surface rust but is structurally solid.

Since the car is in such good shape overall and I'm not going to rotisserie restore and paint the entire car right now, what is the best way to "Stabilize" the hell hole till I get to it at some point in the future?

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

I am interested in the answer to this, as I have some surface rust in the hell hole, too.

I would start with a screw driver. If it is solid enough/ there are no holes, I would get off what I could from the surface with physical means, then use a process with phosphoric acid, like marine clean/ metal ready, or oshpo, or ppg dx579/ dx520. Often there are 2 parts to these treatments. it's all about 'etching' with the acid to neutralize the rust.

Nathan...Thanks.

OK...so:

Scrap and clean
Use phosphoric acid treatment.

Rust proof Primer??
Touch up paint??

Doesn't sound too difficult.

I do scrape with a screwdriver, my special scraping screw driver , but I was saying you should forcibly poke at the recess there to see if it will go through. You really aren't hurting it if it does go through, but if it is solid, like my 'heckhole' is, having jabbed it some, I feel better about it now, even through it is pitted.

I was thinking more along the lines of a metal brush, a welding or grill brush. I'm not a fan of wire wheels on angle grinders. You will make good metal thin that way, and tear right through marginal areas. The acid will turn the rest, convert it, encapsulate it, whatever it does, turns the pits black. The products have zinc in them, too.

Etching primer is just primer that has similar chemical actions, but not as good as doing the whole etching thing, like shampoo and conditioner in one, but can't hurt to get that kind if you're going rattle can, "etching" or 'metal' primer.

There are many levels of dealing with it, depends if the screwdriver goes through. I would poke at the front of the jack post plate that is below there, too. That can hide some nastiness sometimes. I would take a good look at the suspension console ear on that side, too.

Here's mine to give you some idea what can go first. I'll link the image, it is pretty grotesque.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsi...291433480.1.jpg

If that is the worst rust you have on your car you have nothing to complain about for sure. However, as clean as your chassis is I would want the hell hole addressed correctly the first time and then you are done. If you do not feel up to the challenge for whatever reason, there is surely a shop in your general proximity that someone on here can recommend that can fix that correctly and then shoot the area in the factory color so it look as nice as the rest of the car. Just my opinion, of course, but I figure I have the time and hard earned money to do it right once and I don't want to have to do it again.

Thanks Mike for helping me keep it in perpective.

I'm going to have the engine out soon, so I will be able to poke around and get a better look. If it is only surface rust which it appears, then it will be fairly simple. If more than scrubing and phosphoric acid is required, then I'll have to see.

Even though I'm not going all the way to rotisserie right now because it isn't needed, (AND I CAN'T WAIT TO START DRIVING IT) I still plan on doing everything right the first time.

So if anyone sees me doing anything less than perfect, they have my permission to or

I've been fixing and rebuilding my own race/dirt bikes since I was 12, so I'm pretty good with a wrench, but when it comes to bodywork...not so much. I have seen just about every episode of Overhaulin', so how hard can it be.


Thanks for all the help.

When you have the engine out is the best time to get the repair done! I found a similar area to that (perhaps slightly worse) on mine last year during the winter and had a new engine shelf and battery holder welded in and had the area painted for less than 700. If that's the biggest rust spot on the car, and you don't plan to rotisserie it, I'd say get it taken care of properly.

Mine looked like that, once you clean it up you might be surprised that it is not too bad. Once I gave it a good cleaning I used some POR 15 and it is all good.

Optima sealed battery will prevent this from ever happening again.

Get in there and clean it up and see what you have under the grunge. Hopefully its solid.

Learn something new every day. That accelerator strap is actually in the PET parts diagrams, PN 999.706.005.80 (suspension strap). It's listed only as for 914 2.0 though, which is interesting.

#71 in the diagram below

I totally agree...had some very scary looking rust in my engine bay when I got the car, turned out to be surface only and ground right off. Gone... POR 15'd it, replaced the tray, all good. From 2000 miles away that hell hole looks like it's nothing major.

Mark,
Do you think that is the strap that is hanging from my ECU? Or one mounted somewhere else?

It appears from the diagram that the strap is actually for the accelerator cable and not the ECU strap as Dave Kawashima showed in the picture on the prior page of my thread?

The PET parts list also showed the same part for the 914-6.

Using Dave's picture, and the parts diagram from Mark, definitely seems to be a throttle cable support strap.

OK...Exhaust is off. Anybody know what it is? I do remember it had a pretty nice sound.

I looked at it closely and couldn't find any name or markings.


Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Monza.

I say toss it off a cliff.

OK...so dad bought a crappy exhaust. I looked up Bursch on their website and found this:

• BX 1421 - Street
• BX 1422 - Comb.
• BX 1423 - Quiet Street
• BX 1424 - Quiet Comb.

Which one do I want? What is the difference between street and comb? What is combo? What is the difference between Street and Quiet street?

I have a Bursch, and I don't care for it. 50% of the paint will be gone after your first long drive, and it is pretty loud. In fairness, I don't recall which one I have, as I bought it many years ago, but only installed it last year.

If I had to do it over again, I would buy a Triad. They are well-built and get great reviews here. However, they are a dual tip - one tip in the factory spot, and for the other tip, you will need to modify your valence.

If I had your car, I would look for a used factory muffler in good shape or shell out for a Dansk replacement, which is the most original currently on the market.

dont forget the triad option, those things sound awesome!

the best sounding 4 i have ever heard: Ceaser's (phat nine11 on here) stainless heat exchangers and a banana sport muffler (dansk i think? ) it makes me drool everytime

Dave will make you a single tip Triad.

Who would want a single YIP muffler?

This one is closer to stock. and closer to $600....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-914-2-0-73...ies&vxp=mtr

This is what the Triad dual outlet looks like ... (I painted mine though)

Click to view attachment

It is a bit loud, but it does sound sweet.

I think new ones go for around $350 or so these days

No louder than a bursch IMO. Maybe quieter even. And a much better sound.

This Dansk looks very much like the stock exhaust; Which I still have. Perhaps internally it is different to give a better sound.


Click to view attachment

That is an interesting thought. I don't want to change or cut the rear panel/valance, so that might be an option.

That might kill the sound that everybody likes out of the dual tips though.

If you already have a OEM banana muffler , use it.

I do have it. I'll post a pic tomorrow.

We know what they look like.

I had one on mine for a while. I like the sound of the stock muffler. Too quiet on decel though. For me anyway... I like more burble.

As I recall, the stock muffler is right up at the top as far as flow and performance. If you still have it, it is probably your best bet as far as performance and sound. You might want to think about having it acid dipped and then ceramic coated. That muffler is worth some money these days, and even if it is not what you want to put back on the car, it is still worth nice money to an ever-growing group of folks who are restoring these cars.

Stock is my #1 choice. Triad is a close #2.

I am partial to my Tangerine Evo IV silencer. If you haven't heard one in person then you are missing out. Yes I have heat since it does get cold up here.