Doesn't Triad also make a dual tip with the passenger side outlet facing down?
That way you can still use the stock valance.
Mike

I think the Bursch gets a bad rap. I like mine. Got it used for $25 and it has lasted me 4 years or so and still looks great. (car doesn't get driven in the rain).

Previously I had a Monza and I second McMark's comments. Way too loud (set off car alarms as I drove by) and rediculously heavy.

Haha...you got me there Gint. But you have never seen MY OEM banana.

I have the Monza on mine, I like the way the dual tail pipes look, and I don't really have anything to compare it too, sound wise... but that being said, I plan to replace it with a banana when I get a chance.

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Ok... so we're posting pics...

I didn't know you had a lift, Mike

Any sane man who experienced what Gint did would own a lift, or give up working on cars altogether. I will never forget that thread. I am buying a lift as soon as I figure out what type makes the most sense for me.

I'm hep, I remember the incident. I hate jack stands and would let the car sit on them for a couple of days (shaking the car several times) before climbing underneath.

Recently had two different vehicles up on the lift - with numerous up/down operations required. Unbelievable amount of time and frustration avoided

You didn't have a STOCK muffler as one of the choices? For that car I'd have to go with a stock banana style muffler, FWIW they aren't bad on performance either.

Yes they do make one like you describe. Great option if you don't want stock.

Think I'm going to go back to the OEM banana to start; Especially since I have it.

Can McMark, or any of our other resident engine builders say whether the OEM banana is compatible with a 115 h.p., 2056cc engine build?

Then maybe the one exhaust tip, or one tip turned down Triad if I want a better sound.

You'll have no problem with the banana.

That will work fine. And a good choice under the circumstances. As I said I ran one. On my carb'd 2056 at that. It was fine.

I've had a lift for 10 years. I moved it from the old house to new. With the help of my local 914 pals that is. "We" moved it.

I love this site!! The longer I hang out, the more cool stuff I find.

Just added an Eric Shea pedal rebuild and Engman Pedal board to my list of Parts and services to buy. All because a 7 year old thread on the pedal rebuild popped up.

Yup, the 2056 doesn't really put out enough flow to necessitate a bigger exhaust. You can give up a few HP with a bad setup, but you're not doing anything wrong that I can see, so you've got nothing to worry about. Run any of those mufflers and have fun.

My OEM banana pic just for Gint.

I've also got a nice Monza, 4-stinger exhaust for sale if anyone is interested.


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Looking over the service records of the car, and see that Dad had a full brake job done less than 2K miles before it went into storage. Obviously the pads are still near new, and the rotors are unworn and smooth. Problem is that the rotors have rusted slightly over the 20 years in storage. Not terrible, just a very light coat of minor surface rust.

I'm planning on having Eric at PMB do a caliper restoration on all 4 corners and I guess I'm wondering if I'm going to need to turn down the rotors as well, or will a couple of hundred miles of driving take care of the rust?

Anyone have any thoughts?

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that doesn't look like much rust. A little steel wool will take off a good bit of it, and I'd bet the rest is gone in just a few minutes of driving.

That will come right off with driving. But I'd probably hit it with scotchbrite disk on a die grinder first. Easy-peasy...

Thanks fellas...That's what I was hoping to hear. One less thing on the list...so I can start DRIVING it in the spring.

Hmmm...seems it's time to get the engine out and start doing "Real" work down in the hell hole. I am excited though, once the engine is out, it will really seem like the project is underway.


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Clean up the non contact areas a little and paint with black 1200 degree VHT. They'll look nice, but will also help dissipate the heat a little better (less chance for warpage).

Most definitely. Putting those beautifully restored Eric Shea calipers back on without painting and cleaning up the hubs would be a crime.

Once I get the engine out...should I paint the engine tins with VHT paint, or get them powder coated?

Get them powder coated.

By the way, you may want to start new threads for these topics. Once a thread gets too big people tend to lose interest and you may not get the audience you want

I am sorry to hear of your dads passing however; What an amazing gift to remember him by. I hope my kids will remember their father by driving the OG 914.

Thanks for the kind words. We shared the car for literally...35 years and every time I work on it, it reminds me of him.


Cheers Pops!

Couple of nice looking cars Scott. Take them on weekend runs with you. If you are sure you won't ever need to sell them, tell the kids "Someday" these will be yours and get them involved. Pretty sure that will turn the cars into family heirlooms.

It's not necessary to use high temperature paint on the tins. A good argument for painting them yourself is that you can touch it up. Also, they are painted from the factory.

I think it's cool to see the offset stamped markings, so cool. That's mostly just me though. Interesting, I don't see your engine tin code in Bowlsby's list.



http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/PLM.htm

That is interesting.
I went out and checked and the tin code on mine is EA349 over 621. and not in Bowlsby's list. What do those numbers signify?

OK...please school me on what an "Offset stamped markings" are???

scott, We have a bunch of teener in and around L.A. if you need anything.

I was just referring to how sloppily done they are, difficult to copy that look. They indicate what build the engine is. I have a 621 and a 613, 49 state and CA 1.7. I'm not sure what yours mean. You might have a 0.22 somewhere or others even. It is a bit of an unknown. There is a thread somewhere..

Ahhh...gotcha. The numbers were definitely smeared on mine.

I think Pat Garvey was going to have a stencil or a stamp made to reproduce the numbers.

Had the county sheriff out to inspect the 914, and a quick 5 minute VIN number verification turned into an hour of close inspection. He was the duty sergeant and driving the big SUV that the sergeants drive. Seems he owned a body shop and restored a few cars in his days before joining the force. Let’s just say he couldn’t keep his eyes off every inch of the car.

He took a rag and some ArmorAll I had on the shelf and gently rubbed out a small spot where the paint had the worst oxidation. Paint shined up really nice. He assured me that the car would buff out beautifully.

As he departed, he told me not to be frightened next summer if I get pulled over by the sheriff’s SUV with flashing lights. He wants to see the car when it’s done. I promised him a ride.

You need to spend some time here:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showforum=44

There's a thread about those tin markings. There's also a thread about suspension markings.

If i had a car that was still close to original, i would take great care to preserve any markings or stickers etc.

Andy,
Couldn't agree more. That is why I'm taking my time and taking it apart one little piece at a time. And taking literally...hundreds of pics. I really want this to be as nice as beige Steve's car when I'm done.

Thanks for the push over to the originality forum. I really do need to spend some time there reading and learning. I was reading about the rocker panel rivet controversy.

Oh...for the record...My car is an early 73 car with the aluminum door thresholds, and my rocker panels were attached with white, METAL rivets. They WERE NOT plastic. I also know that the rocker panels had never been removed, so this is how the car was delivered.

Since this came up elsewhere, I thought I should document it here in the build thread.

My dealer, Greene in Norwalk, added the aluminum kick plates, Porsche lettering on the rocker panels, and the most controversial of them all…An additional Porsche badge on the rear.

On inspection of the additional Porsche badge, you see that it is made identically to both the 914, and 2.0 badges. Same exact pins in the back, as well as the same exact mounting hardware and special washers. They are not some peel-n-stick junk that a salesman on a whim decided to slap on.

So if I choose to remove the badge, I would need to fill and sand the holes, and then re-spray perfectly Fine original paint on the back of the car. That seems counterproductive to me.

I’m pretty sure people wouldn’t remove Yenko engine parts or graphics that weren’t “Factory” and then re-paint the car. So my opinion is that what came from the Dealer is what's original. Others might think that I should remove this piece and repaint the car. I think repainting an original paint car is far worse than the added badge. And I think the badge looks cool.

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I agree with your logic. What's actually original is so incredibly nebulous that it's almost irrelevant. For example, if you've replaced your brake pads, your car isn't original anymore.

Leave the logo on there. It's a conversation piece There was an light ivory 75/76 that was being sold roughly five years back that also had a "special" dealer treatment. I'll see if I still have the coorespondence. I believe it was either an Ohio or Georgia dealership that did it.
Also anxious to see what you use on your fan shroud to clean it. Mine is abit grungy too and also has that green dot. Take great care with those vacuum lines. They get quite brittle at the connection points over time. The salmon colored you can't get anymore, and the black/grey is dyed differently now. Nice to see that your trying to preserve as much as you can.

Eric, I would keep it as delivered. I think your logic is spot on, if it was delivered from the dealer that way, it should stay.

In my opinion with so much of the 914 being dealer installed (like the AC), those options are all part of the "original" car.

I PM'd Eric about it, but since I was the one who started the controversy by whining about the badge, I feel I should publicly say that I agree with Eric's decision. My complaint stemmed from a purely aesthetic viewpoint. I should have realized that the way the badge was installed would not lend itself to easy removal.

BTW, I'm pretty sure the badge is meant for a 356, like the one below .....

I thought my whining about the badge started it
I would be torn about the badge but I would probably leave it, even though it drives me crazy, being too high up and too far to the right and too small a size, redundant with the lid lettering.... sorry, I'll stop.

If that is how it was delivered to the customer from the dealer, it is original in my book. Dealers have been adding things for nearly 100 years to increase their margins, not just in the US, but all over the world. Undercoating on 914s is a perfect example.

Suppose I found a '70 Six in pristine original condition down to the brake pads, but it was undercoated by the dealer, would I buy it and then take on the task of removing the undercoating, respraying the entire under-carriage, or would I just clean everything up and present it as original?

In my estimation, since this is the way the car was delivered from the dealer, it is original and should be kept intact. It may not be Karman original, but it is "delivered" original.

Please keep in mind here that Eric owes nothing to anyone. It is his car, and not the property of some concours judge. If I owned this car and had memories of my Dad bringing it home as it looks now, there is nothing in the world that would make me want to "bring it back to original".

Hey, you're right Nathan, you started it. I feel better now.

Sorry Dave, but it was you.

Pulling off all 4 of my disk brake calipers to send out for restoration right after new year, and was wondering if I need to do anything with the brake lines?

They seem fine, and there has never been a problem. But after 20 years of storage are there any issues I should check for while they are apart? What about any other part of the braking system?

You will want to replace the rubber lines. Just add them to your order from Eric.

Get new rubber lines.

So I finally got the rear bumper, valance, and bumper rubber apart. Couple of little dings in the bumper rubber.

I'm guessing this rubber is some kind of soft metal with rubber moulded around it? What is the best way to work some minor dings out of the bumper rubber?

Hammers and dollys or ???

I'm sure there is a thread on this somewhere though I couldn't find a link to one after a search.


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