Timing being off isn't helping matters. Of course you can't set the timing till you can get the engine running at low rpm. We need to rule out vacuum leaks, did you reconnect or cap off the decel valve? You do have the exhaust installed, right? If so, spray some starting fluid around the intake, plenum, oil cap, rubber boot, while the car is running and listen for any changes in engine speed.

I think I am dealing with just exhaust now. Not really smoke. So I will just monitor that.

I have gone over the vacuum hose diagrams and I have everything in the right place, all new hoses that seem to be snug.

Funny thing is, when I do get it running and I am holding the pedal at about 2K revs, it seems to be running smoothly.

I did set the static timing at the 7.5 mark yesterday.

I did reconnect the decel WITHOUT the PO's plug.

Is there a way to install the exhaust wrong? I am using the OEM stuff from 75. My PO did not supply, but Scarlet75 gave me his old set up.

Small header pipes attach to the heads with copper washers then, bolt up to the heat exchangers. The rear attaches to the tranny hanger and the muffler etc... bolts to that.

I will get me a helper and check the vacuum with it running. Wife and kids are gone. I'll see who I can round up.

Sorry, I was making sure that you had the exhaust connected. I didn't want you spraying starting fluid in the engine bay with the exhaust off.

I think I will join the party.

The De-accel valve is only to add air to the system on deacceleration (closed throttle) to supposedly prevent backfiring. Car will run nicely without it.

Timing ... a 1.8 is timed at 7.5 with the engine at idle as I remember (800 - 900 rpm, vacuum lines disconnected and plugged). I have no idea of what the static timing should be. Personally, I would start at 0 degrees (TDC) to get the engine started.

No idle, possibly the vane in the AFM is sticking or the idle adjustment screw is closed. If the engine ever backfired through the intake, the AFM could be toast as it disrupts the vane in the AFM.

I never understood the "0" lash bit on the valves. If no lash is present cold, the metal grows as the engine heats up and the valves would never close, but I guess a case could be made that there is a small amount of lash present 'cause the chrome-molly push rods grow at a different rate than the remainder of the engine.

Oh well .... party on.

No apologies needed here only THANK YOUS.

I was able to get my 13 year old to start the car and hold the pedal. I sprayed the fluid in most places and the only time I got an increase in revs was when I was close to the air intake nozzle.

I am 95% sure I don't have a leak.

Let me ask a question about the throttle cable. It should be tight, but not pulling the intake open when at rest, correct?

BTW: I found a dryer vent hose that I did not use and connected it to the landscaping culvert pipe and my garage is just about exhaust free.

So no vacuum leaks, and you have a 2000 rpm sweet spot. This leads me to believe that the air flow meter is having issues. Like Slits said, verify that you can push the flap inside the AFM, and it doesn't hang up. The flap should move on a frictionless path, with only spring tension fighting you. If the car backfires, the AFM flap will warp, and jam up.

It never backfired hard on me, no telling about the PO. IIRC I tried to open the AFM months ago, but I did not. I believe it was factory sealed. Cover was screwed and glued. Of all the things to get to, that is EZ. I could open her up and give it a look.

you can access the airflow meter flap by removing the rubber boot or thru the air filter side

Am I just checking for movement? Car running or not running? Just reach in with a finger?

OOPS, i did not see your previous post.... I got it.

Seems to move freely. is this the correct setting at rest?

Click to view attachment

Car off, just checking if the flap moves freely with your finger or a long screwdriver

All you will see if you remove the cover on the AFM is the circuitry. If it is sealed with RTV, it has been taken off before ... Bosch wasn't that sloppy.

As I remember there is a screw in the top of the AFM used to set idle, but I've never owned a 1.8.

Would have to look at a unit at the shop to see the position of the vane and that wouldn't be till Monday.

It looks factory sealed, no screws just a small bit of glue around the edges.

AFM looks clean.

Did the vane move freely with no "sticking" points?

Oh well, carry on ... off to a Baby Shower for 2nd Granddaughter ... wheeeeee!

Tims' avatar shows the AFM with the top off.

On the airflow meter, remove the connector and locate pin 7 and pin 8. What is the resistance between these two? Now check pin 6 and pin 9 resistance.

The throttle cable shouldn't be tight. Also, have you adjusted that big screw on the throttle body? There is another screw on the air flow meter, that should be backed off 4.5 turns.

This screw?

Click to view attachment

I will have to wait to check the resistance this evening. Sorry, but fun time is over for today. I have Saturday duty at work this afternoon, DAMN IT.

Throw me a few more things to test tonight. and I will reply

Thanks again it all.... We are getting there.

Very smooth movement. Have fun.

Yes!

Opening that screw allows intake air to bypass the flapper, thereby decreasing it's movement and leaning out the mixture.
Basically its a controlled intake leak.

Backing out the big screw on the throttle body allows air to bypass the throttle plate, thereby increasing the idle rpm without affecting the mixture.

A honey to do list...

Pull the ECU connector off and check these pins with your multimeter:
Resistance between pin 6 and 9 on the ECU connector
Resistance between pin 7 and 8 on the ECU connector
Resistance between pin 6 and 27 on the ECU connector
Resistance between pin 13 ECU connector to engine case ground

Resistance between pin 18 and 3 on the ECU connector. Remeasure same pins but have your son depress the gas pedal fully when measuring again.

You should have 6 measurements to report back when complete.


Now the 2 adjustment screws. One screw (you posted a picture) is located on the airflow meter. Did you ever adjust this screw? It would be good to know just how many turns the screw is turned in. Is it screwed in all the way? This screw looks somewhat seized from your picture. You may want to spray a dab of PB blaster down that hole. Go ahead and tighten (clockwise) it in all the way. Record how many turns it took to seat this screw. Now back it off 4.5 turns. The PO may of had this screw max clockwise.

The 2nd screw, is located on the throttle body. It will be a wider screw, this adjusts your idle speed. Did you ever adjust this screw?

Lastly, the PO had plugged off the decel valve for reasons right now unknown. The decel valve may be faulty or undesired. Reinstalling this back into your car just added another variable to the equation. I would remove this valve and hoses, then cap with rubber plugs. I would do the same for the Aux air valve. I'm not saying this will be permanent, but for now it would be 2 less variables to deal with.

2 rubber plugs on the white plastic T on the rubber boot. You will need some plugs for the plenum. Also, the small vacuum lines will need to be plugged (except the dizzy line). These items aren't needed right now, and we can always add it back in later.

Click to view attachment

The places where I put black x's,,install a rubber cap

here you go
Click to view attachment

I have adjusted the screw on the throttle body. Opened it up a turn or two. I understood that if the car was idling, I could basically adjust 'til I hit 2K rpm and do the 20 minute break-in by adjusting the screw.

So I have not gotten far enough to turn that screw with the car running.

Clark

My car is a 75. It has the EGR valve.

Shall I take that out of the equation too. Truthfully, the backside of that valve(not depicted here) is a metal pipe that goes thru the back tin and should continue on to the exhaust. But it stops at the tin. I plugged that pipe already. Mine will then look just like your 74 layout above.

There are two more smaller hoses one Tees into the yellow line, the other Tees into the oil fill line.

I have no other emissions stuff that I know of on this car, don't want it either, not sure if the state will require it. I think 75 is the 1st year that is still tested. Why they go back that far, I don't know.

Click to view attachment

The EGR valve is not necessary for the car to run. All it does is take a portion of the exhaust gasses and runs them back into the intake system at the air cleaner. The valve does not open unless you have constant vacuum.

The line that is missing was from the muffler to the connector at the engine tin.

My six measurements:
6 and 9 = 0.382
7 and 8 = 0.265
6 and 27 = 1.331
13 and ground = 1.315

18 and 3 = nothing, meter did not move
18 and 3 with accelerator depressed = infinity. same reading as if I touched the meter leads together. That is infinity, correct?

I have turned the throttle body screw about one turn out. I have turned the AFM screw in 2.25 turns, then out 4.5 turns.

The plugging is done. I suppose it is time to fire her up once more?

seems to run much rougher, but still will not idle on it's own.

clark

I take that back, it fires right up. not super smooth at 2K revs, but zero smoke, and alot less trouble to get it to 2k.

I adjusted the throttle body screw pretty much all the way out, it seemed to want to keep idling, took a second or two longer to die, but still dies.

I'm at a birthday party right now, I'll go thru the numbers in a few hours when I get back home.

Post #914 I should savor the moment and not post for awhile!

Looks like a few numbers is slightly out of tolerance with this AFM. About what temperature was the car when taking these measurements?

The engine will have a rough time idling, till it warms up. I would not adjust any screws till the engine reaches temperature. Perform your fast idle again (2k) and pull a injector lead and listen for engine stumble. If it does, plug it back in and remove the injector lead from the next one. Do this test for the remaining injectors, one at a time. If one doesn't stumble from after removing the injector lead, then let me know.

If the injector test passes, go back to the adjustment screw on the AFM. Right now, I had you back it off to around 4.5 turns. Put it back to the previous owner setting of 2.5 turns out. Does your idle improve or get worse? If the engine does improve at 2.5 turns, go ahead and screw it all the way in. Is the engine idle better at this setting? If so, you may have some vacuum leaks.

the earlier test was done with the engine cold.

I did the FI test and only #4 showed any reduction in revs from 2k. I saw no change with any other injector.

This may be the problem. Pulling the lead off a working injector should cause the engine to stumble. If you only got this to happen for 1 of the 4 injectors, tells me the the 3 other injectors aren't working, or you lack ignition to those 3 cylinders.

I never witnessed our engine running on one cylinder, but it would explain poor idle conditions. Just to be thorough, re-perform this injector test. If you get the same results, install a noid light on one of the offending 3 cylinders. If the noid light illuminates, pull that injector and see if it will spray into a jar. If the above 3 tests pass, inspect for spark on those 3 cylinders.

One more thought, having the sparkplug firing order wrong will cause this exact same problem.

There is evidence of all cylinders running. I painted the headers and the paint has started to burn on all 4 exhaust valve pipes. I have a CHT gauge set up on #3 and it has gotten up to 300 on a 10 minute run.

If it was only 1 cylinder, wouldn't it have died when I pulled the good one?

same results on a re-do of the suggested test. not really a stumble, but the revs dropped from 2K to maybe 1.5K on the 1 cylinder'

Noid test: all four light up.

Zundfolge = 1 4 3 2 double checked all wires

Guy's I'm at a loss here. Engine should stumble when you remove fuel to a cylinder

unless the injectors are stuck open - so he isn't removing the fuel by pulling the connector...

I'll be verifying spray and spark this evening. I should be able to easily check for a stuck open condition too.

I would assume I would just do the "unplug" test while the injector is in the jar, correct?

BTW: Tim, I have not moved the distributor since the static timing setting at 7.5 deg.

Actually, if even one injector is stuck open the fuel circuit won't hold pressure with the key off.
Plus, if 3 were stuck open, that would make the engine so rich I don't think it would run.

I still have the temporary fuel pressure gauge installed and the fuel ring has about 30 psi of pressure while the car is forced to run at 2K rpm. It takes 20 to 30 minutes after I shut it down to release the pressure.

If there was a stuck open situation, the pressure would drop much faster as it filled up the cylinder, correct?

Yes, but it wouldn't fill up the cylinder. The pressure would be relieved after a few ccs came out.

Yup I agree, but still confused on what's going on when the FI leads are pulled. I'll turn a blind eye for now. Just for the hell of it, turn the dizzy (while car running) a smidge CCW. See if this improves the idling condition at all.

I am going to assume that all injectors are firing ... if not, check the resistor pack for a broken wire(s). Resistor pack provides ground on a 1.8 L-Jet.

Running up in the RPM range will seemingly smooth out a misfiring engine.

I connected a NOID light to each FI connector one at a time and started the car. all four connectors lit the light. Would a broken resistor pack wire be pretty obvious? I checked it over pretty well before I installed.

I throw in the towel!

The suspense is killin' me...planning a little trip to go see Clark...I can't slleep at night untill I do

[qurote name='SLITS' date='Aug 26 2013, 05:33 PM' post='1915465']
I throw in the towel!
[/quote] :

lol4: that's what I thought on page 4.
Malcolm, you ever get the diz oriented properly?

Totally! 13 pages and still a nonfunctional engine, I feel embarrassed and blame myself for this failure.

10 dollars says it will be a faulty AFM with a side of tweaking the timing.