Let me know when you go I have a complete 2.0 FI system sitting on the shelf. But that's D-jet?

isn't the motto of teeners: "there are always CARBS!" But then I would get to take the engine out again and change the cam! Someone make a T-shirt.

I got the distributor right last week, when it was on the table. I am not saying 100%, but I am damn sure.

No failures yet. Especially not your failure. There is a solution! I can always buy a new known working engine with a known working injection system or CARBS, right?

you may find that the cam gear is a tooth off,,

no one will know but me. I'll have to change my identity. Maybe Malcolm3, would anyone notice?

Your very close, and I wouldn't throw in the towel just yet. You just need a second pair of eyes to see this. I have the upmost faith that Pilothyer will have you all set by the end of his visit. I'll PM you my cell number for any help I can throw your way during his visit, just as long it isn't during my Notre Dame game! lol

OK I started the car, held the revs at 2000 and turned the dizzy CCW. probably more than a smidge. anyway the revs went up. Released the acel pedal and the car did die, but it took it alot longer than any other time. The revs dropped and it spitted and sputtered for maybe 5 seconds, then died.

Jerry is coming by tomorrow evening....any thing else I should try now, did that lead us somewhere else? For kicks I'll go ahead and check the spark, that is not too difficult.

Clark

about how many turns on the bypass screw on the AFM?

still at 4.5

screw it back to its original setting of 2.5 turns, see if that helps

WOW>>>> even better. It fired right up with no coaxing. I even got out of the car and messed with the idle screw on the throttle body, which was way OUT, I turned it in and it did not do anything. BUT THIS IS THE BEST EVER. I would not call it a smooth idle, but it idled.

k, now try 1.5 turns on the AFM bypass screw. (this is showing that you having a vacuum leak somewhere FYI)

OK first try was not any better. But I turned the throttle body screw back out where is was yesterday... too far out...and did the 1.5 on the AFM screw and it is idling. again, not smooth, but it would probably run all day like that.

I hate vacuum leaks, my 85 cabby seems to get them and I can never find them. all the hoses are new. most have been plugged....

can you get this to idle around 900, long enough to get this thing timed?

Not sure what it is idling on, but let's go with it. What hoses come off to set the timing?

do you have one or two vacuum lines on the dizzy advance can?

Click to view attachment

the bottom tic is 750 700 rpm

2 small lines

confused, thought you just moved it a smidge CCW and things came alive for you?

Pull both hoses off, feel for the one that is sucking, then plug that one

The initial turning this evening I saw some improvement with MORE than a smidge of CCW turn.

I plugged the smallest line, it was on the side closest to the oil filler. Removed the larger one, had a helper keep the car at 900, just below the "1" and I set the timing.

to be clear, I made me a mark on the side of the fan that I can see. I used an old fan as a gauge and the template from Pelican for 7.5 degrees. Induction type light clamped to #1 plug wire and turn the dizzy til my mark was in the "V".

Idling, but very rough. Wanting to die.

did the dizzy need to turn more CCW to get it on the flywheel mark, or was it CW? I understand your new mark on the fan, but is it anywhere near the factory red mark?

Back to the injectors... could an injector be partly plugged. Most injectors have an inlet screen and I have seen them get plugged (a BMW I had once) and not allow enough fuel through to let the car idle smoothly or sometimes not at all. The injector can still fire electrically and have good fuel pressure, but the restriction at the screen prevents fuel into that particular cylinder. Pulling an electrical plug on the affected injector would have no change in RPM despite a good noid light signal or good fuel pressure.

a good point

I went back and forth several times, keeping it at 900 was a chore. I am going to say it was back CW where it was set statically a few days ago.

The factory marks on my fan are on the side of the fan closest to the engine. NO WAY TO EVER SEE THEM, unless I hang from the ceiling.

There was a red one and then what looked like a factory cut, no paint 0.57" away. I transferred the red one to the side of the fan closest the cockpit, used the pelican template to make a sliver mark about 0.57" away which pelican says is 7.5 degrees and used for timing the 1.8.

pelican timing template

Okay, put the dizzy back where it idles the best for now. You need to tweak those screws till homeostasis is achieved. Let the car reach temperature, and make minor adjustments till it idles the best. Then check for spark on every plug wire, and go ahead and do the spray test again, just to rule out a plugged/partially plugged injector. It is possible some debris got stirred up and gunked them up..

I guess all I really need is axles and brakes and I could drive this thing.

Click to view attachment
I took a 1 minute video but I guess it is too big. It ran since Tim's last post, just a bit high on the RPMs but this is AWESOME!!! The oil lite is on, I know, but the VDO gauge is good. In my set up , I used a paint ball gun metal hose and attached the VDO sender to it. The sender has a light connection and a gauge connection. one is reading high, one is reading low. A problem for another day.

this is for the TOWEL THROWERS.

Tim you are the man, I almost let you give up. I turned the dizzy CCW a bit more to get it to stay at about 1000. Any less and it seems to struggle to much. T-stat has extended, CHT is 250-ish. looking good.

Just alittle tuning and air leak finding and I am good. What should I do about all those plugged hoses?

Also, since you have the AFM cover removed. Get the engine up to temp, and a good rolling idle. Carefully and gently rotate the armature on the air flow meter very slow towards the passenger side. Does the engine run better or worse? Try it the other way and ask yourself the same question. You shouldn't move it all that much, just a tiny tiny bit in either direction. IF you go too far, it will cause the engine to stumble and die. I think you said earlier that you have the 1911 set up? So if you move the AFM arm towards the passenger side, it will give the injectors more fuel, which may please your engine.

Again, you are moving the arm very slow and a small amount at a time till it stumbles. How far does it go before it stumbles?

Leave them plugged for now, lets get your engine well tuned before we add the AUX air valve back in. I'd consider leaving out the decel valve for good.

You mean the small bolt on the pass side that is attached to the curved knife looking thing? Jerry said 7mm

Black22, could you chime in with the process you showed me?

No, no adjustments. With the car running, you will witness the big black arm with a brass oblong shape wiper arm move. You will see it move when you goose the throttle for sure. I just want you to move it (temporary) with your fingers in a CCW direction to see if the engine behaves different. Don't unscrew anything or pull out any tools for this test. We just need steady surgical fingers for this test.

Don't touch the black carbon track on the resistor plate. The oils in your finger can change the resistance, and mess things up.

Read this...three times...you will then reveal the mysteries of L-jet tuning.

http://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?t=7761

Thanks

Consider it done. No tools and no touchy the black thingy, got it.

let's see if this works. I am trying to link the short 1 minute video I took last night. I have a you tube account with (now) 1 video on it...

my 1st video and the car's too

Pilothyer (Jerry) drove up from Alabama today and we tinkered with the idle etc... Maybe the next video will be of those results. Thank you so much for doing that Jerry, from the sound of it, alot of 914 owners owe you big time.

We really did not do too much, checked alot of things. Adjusted a few others. No AFM changes today. He was pretty impressed with what we had accomplished so far. He agreed with me, the engine sounds wonderful. Hope the video works.

We did find that one of my vacuum ports on my throttle body was not sucking. The other was, so we just moved it to the advance side and that seemed to help. I guess I will take the throttle body off and see what is in there. Does anyone know which port will provide the largest vacuum, front or back?

The TB vacuum line on the firewall side of the TB is for decel and will have more vacuum when TB is closed, it feeds from the idol screw.

The TB vacuum line in the back side is for advance it should also have vacuum most at WOT at lower RPMs

both should have vacuum at idol.

Nice! Look forward to the 2nd improved video.

Wow that was a great video after all you have been through! Get some axels in that thing and drive it!

It is amazing that you went through all of this and got where you are. The support you have received is astounding. There have been some issues that I know I would not have solved without this forum.

My rear port is plugged, and the front one is connected to the vacuum advance on the dizzy. Doing it's job.

I figured I'd use this to update those that helped, watched, laughed, gave up...
Car is idling to perfection now so I move on.
Putting the car back together takes much longer than taking it apart.

*Brake parts ordered, springs, pins, clips, etc...
*Fuel pump has returned to it's location.
*Clutch cable connected, not adjusted
*Shift shaft connected in all 3 places.
*Axles cleaned, CV joints re-packed
This one below is HELL by yourself or with help. It only goes in 1 way and it has to be mostly assembled. But the 1st side takes 3 tries for some reason!
*Axles, trailing arms, rear struts all installed and torqued what can be torqued.

Click to view attachment

*Dust shield, Rotors with new hold down screws, Calipers, Brake lines, axle nut torqued and new cotter pin
*I'll mess with the parking brake later!

Tomorrow I bleed the brakes, install the wheels and I might even DRIVE THE BITCH down the driveway!

(wait, I am still waiting on a few brake parts, Do I really need those? OK Thursday I drive)

Looking pretty good! Drive it you earned it that's for sure.

Everyone involved deserves a great round of applause since it is a great thread on problem solving, stick-to-it, and learning involving the 914; great reading and enjoyed it.

Great job!

Steve

I will have to give it up for Clark, Tim, and all the others that kept working on this. I know there would have been points where if this had been my car, a lot of things would have been broken!