My 1st post of the same subject

Summary: rescued 75 with L-jet: HAM repaired heads, 9550 cam from Type 4 store, All engine harnesses from Bowlsby, 96mm pistons from type 4 store (1911cc), Injectors cleaned by Cruzin Performance...(twice), engine sat for 12 mths while I worked on rust from sitting for 10 years, etc...

A couple weekends ago I went thru EXTENSIVE troubleshooting with Timothy_ND29 (huge thank you ), but the engine would not fire. That is the above link....

We ended up determining that my fresh injectors were clogged cause they sat for 12+ months. CruzinPerformance "woke them up" last week and they arrived back here today. I don't know what else to test: EVERYTHING operates, EVERYTHING:

1. 35+ psi fuel pressure
2. Starter turns engine with the key.
3. Noid lights at all injectors LIGHT
4. Spark plugs at all plugs SPARK
5. Injectors squirt (tested 1 and 2)
6. Valves actually move (I had to know it the damn thing was moving on the inside)

Here is the big one: After installing the fresh injectors, I did hear a slight fire, or poot of a backfire. Then nothing. I took the air box off and sprayed starting fluid in the intake while trying to start and STILL NOTHING.

Question 1: How much spark do I need?
Question 2: How much squirt do I need?

Both happened, but they seemed weak, or small.

Need more help, I feel like the doctor that left a sponge in his patient....

Is the brown wire from the dual relay grounded ?

Sounds like the FI is doing its job. However the timing might be the issue now

I forgot to mention timing. I had it set at 0 TDC for assembly. Tonight, I loosened the clamp and rotated the distributor slightly forwards and backwards, but no change. I have heard it should at least start at 0TDC, correct?

How can I be sure what it is set on if it won't start?

I put one lead into the back of the dual relay block (brown wire) and one on the - of the battery.... continuity! any other way to check that?

So you think I should verify 0 TDC? How do I do that in an air cooled car. I have a FWD Cabriolet that I can turn the engine by hand, but this car?????

Do I do it at the fan, that I cannot see or remember if there is even a nut on the fan?

I guess I could remove #1 plug, bump the engine. Insert a screwdriver. At a high point check the rotor button??

No need, your FI is working. We went thru the whole system earlier with no problems other than a disconnected ground wire (fixed now). You verified the working nature of the FI by using your noid light and physically seen fuel spraying. It's in the timing now or wrong firing order. Can you post a pic of your dizzy and a pic of the rotor when pointing to number one at TDC?

HERE YOU GO>>> Sorry the pictures are oriented differently, but the timing hole is closest to #1. So turn your head a bit, while looking at the 2nd picture....

Click to view attachment

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I had a similar problem many years ago. It turned I had installed the dizzy drive gear 180 degrees out. All of my checks said it should run but I got nothing but flames out the exhaust pipes and backfires.

Not saying that you did the same, but it took me along time before i checked the drive gear.

That may be where I am heading... but I got no flames. Is #1 on the dizzy closest to the driver?

K, can you remove the valve cover and wiggle the rocker arms for the number one cylinder. Do they wiggle ?

I did that on the other side, to see if I was getting movement. Give me a minute and I'll check #1 for wiggle.

the left one wiggles. the right does not... just thought of something.... should I have the rotor button pointing at #1? It is not in this picture.

Click to view attachment

Rotating the engine on a 914 can be a little more challenging than other cars. I use an adjustable wrench on the alternator nut. You have to use your left hand and do it by feel, but it's possible.

Set your timing statically before you attempt to run:
1) Put in a fresh set of points and establish the gap at 0.016".
2) The Ljet cars have only 1 timing mark, located at 7.5 degrees ATDC. You'll need to use an inspection mirror to find the mark. Position the crank so that the mark is lined up in the v-notch of the fan housing.
3) Get a continuity checker (a continuity light or the beep function on a multi-meter). Measure continuity between the short green lead of the points and the housing of the distributor.
4) While watching (or listening) to your continuity meter, rotate the distributor until EXACTLY that point where the continuity goes away, no further. Do this very carefully, moving the distributor slowly. Tighten the distributor clamp.
5) Install the rotor and cap. Install the plug wires with the order 1-4-3-2, clockwise around the cap. Ensure that the #1 plug wire is connected to the cap in the position immediately above the rotor. (I'm assuming that the crank is still located so that the timing mark is aligned with the v-groove.)
6) Verify that the points are connected to the condensor and that the condensor wire is connected to the minus contact on the coil. Verify that the injector loom lead is also connected to the minus side of the coil. Verify that when the ignition switch is on you've got 12V at the plus side of the coil.
7) Now try to start the car.

Good luck.

I rechecked at very close to #1 TDC and I got NO WIGGLE. One valve is UP, and one is DOWN. I can snap another picture?

You should have valve lash wiggle on both rockers when piston number one is at TDC. Since you don't, tells me that number one isn't at tdc or valve lash isn't set right. Worse case scenario the cam wasn't meshed up with the crank correctly (I hope not). Your dizzy drive gear could be off as well. First thing is first, you must find TDC on piston one, making sure both rocker are relaxed and move by hand.

Long story but a summary is that I had dumped a lot of fuel in the exhaust and on the times it did cough a bit out came flames.

Don't put anything into the spark plug hole

Keyword: FIND? So when the piston is at TDC, both valves are closed?

Should I bump the engine and check for wiggle? How do I find? I have taken the #1 plug out and don't seem to be able to feel high or low. Is it too much of an angle to feel with a punch or screw driver?

As I mentioned, I now have the rotor button pointing close to #1 (the mark on the dizzy) and my valves are not CLOSED.

Verify that you #1 viewed from sitting in the car, is the left rear cylinder.

Click to view attachment

Disregard the arrow that says direction of travel.

I find it easy to put the passenger rear wheel on the ground. Jack up the rear driver side wheel and put the car in 5th gear. Spin the wheel by hand

No axles yet. Not sure about finding 5th gear either. Even at that don't I need to feel for the top of the piston?

It's dangerous, anything you put in that spark plug hole will be sheared off by the piston. You really need to find the mark on the fan.

Yes, I have read stuff about chop sticks.... I was not going to turn the engine with anything in the spark plug hole, just probing it AFTER I bump the engine. Anyway, the button is pointing at the mark on the top edge of the dizzy, I will see about the fan. I am looking for the timing mark, correct?

Clark

OK, with the button pointed at the mark, I look into the timing hole and see nothing. I marked the edge of the fan during assembly with a couple marks to help me time the engine, in the future. If I am standing at the rear of the car, facing forward, those marks would be at 10 o'clock on the fan, maybe 10:30.

I assume they should be 12 o'clock, correct?

Do you follow?

Clark

Never mind the position of the dizzy's rotor for now. Mount up on your car and stare down the inspection hole. Look at the v knotch and spin the fan. You should see a red line, when you do, inspect the rockers at cylinder one. You have a 50-50 chance that when the mark is in between the v knotch that the piston is very close to tdc. If the rocker is pushing, spin the fan 360 degrees and recheck the rockers.

I know it's getting late, I appreciate your help, shut me down whenever your ready....

I am not 100% sure, but using my mirror and my marks on the edge of the fan, I think I put the red mark exactly on the V notch. I do have a slight wiggle on both rockers for #1.

Excellent, with the red mark between the v knotch and you have rocker slack at number one cylinder, says we are good. Where ever you rotor is pointing, put the number one plug wire on it. Then 4,3,2 wires in a clockwise fashion, then start your beast.

It is not quite pointing at a plug wire, but what the hay, I am doing it.

be right back.

Spin the dizzy so it's pointing at the number one lead

Still nothing! Man I thought you had it there.

Which way did you turn the distributor to align the rotor with the number one lead?

I moved the plug wires. The button turns clockwise, so I moved #1 and then moved the others clockwise in the firing order.

Try moving the dizzy counter clockwise a smidge and try again

No go on the smidge.

Lets start over. Line up the red mark with the v knotch and verify both rocker arms wiggle on the number 1 cylinder.

will do.

OK, I have the red mark at the notch. And I do have a wiggle on both rockers. 1 is wiggling a bit more than the other, but both are noticeable vs before being very very tight.

Can you post a pic of the rotor, so we can see which way it's pointing?

Straight right (passenger side)

Click to view attachment

Ok, put the cap on and put only the number one plug wire on. Leave the rest of the plug wires off the cap. Repost a pic with the cap and number one plug wire on.

Click to view attachment

With your volt meter, set it to resistance. Measure the resistance between the middle socket on the cap to the end of the number one plug wire. Spin the dizzy clockwise till you have infinite resistance then spin the dizzy back counter clockwise right to the point where you first get a low resistance.

Either I am doing this wrong, or I found something.... my meter never moved. I am basically checking continuity thru the points and the button, correct? I then checked the #1 wire itself and got continuity, but never got the meter to read thru the center connection.

Right or Wrong?

The vacuum can may be limiting the rotation. Try moving the number one plug wire one spot clockwise. Then spin the dizzy counter clockwise till you read resistance

Yes the vacuum hits the fan housing as I turn clockwise and the cold start connector as I turn counter clockwise.

However, I put the #1 plug in each of the 4 holes in the dizzy and never got the meter to move. I took the cap off and checked thru the center spring loaded section. And got continuity. The spring and button were loose and came out, but I was able to re-assemble, and try again. No movement on the meter between the center of the dizzy and the spark plug end of #1 wire...spinning the dizzy.

is it me?

I'm sorry, I'm not thinking here. The rotor doesn't quite touch the contacts on the cap. There is a slight gap, again sorry falling asleep here. You could put a piece of aluminum foil over the rotor tip to close the distance. I think we are close here. Leave the number one plug wire where it is, and put the other wires back on. Spin the dizzy so it hits the cold start valve and try starting again

No change. Still will not fire up.

I'm turning in for the night, lets pick this up later this evening.

I was going to suggest the same.... Thanks so much.