For the most part I'm using Supertec's sealant regime, BUT I admit I'm not a big fan of Curil T and I probably won't even open that package.

The Hysol you can see on the oil galley plugs, etc. earlier in this thread, instead of using the usual JB weld for this job.

Curil is a pita, like dealing with tree sap (gloves work well). But I had no leaks when I used it to replace my cams about 5 years ago.

This was a slow go making the jigs but here is my first phenolic spacer.

5 more to go, but I'm also going to make 6 aluminum spacers to back up the injector notch so the phenolic spacer is fully supported.

Finished spacer

Soaring through this job now, the chips are a flying

1979 3.0 big port head

Note the injector notch.

Phenolic spacer

Aluminum spacer

So why am I doing this?
When using the stock weber manifold the injector notch is way to close to the edge of the manifold to ever seal proper.
Also using just a phenolic spacer alone will also cause issues later on, as it will eventually leak.

The phenolic spacer will also help avoid carb heat soak issues.

The final product

Edit: note I have the spacers on ass backwards, the aluminum spacer goes on the bottom to cover the FI notch, then the phenolic spacer and manifold.

why not just fill the notch with weld ?

Three reasons
1/ Even if I did I'd still want the phenolic spacer...seeing as it's good enough for PMO
2/ What if I decide I want to go FI later.
3/ I'm a cheap SOB and this cost me nothing but time, even the materials were free to me.
4/ welding would have also cost me mo' money...whooops...that's four reasons...

So change gears a bit, not going to get much done today, family day weekend so I have to spend some time with the kiddies.

My hell holes and tank install. I know my holes are nice, but they still have a hair of surface rust, so I'm wondering what to do. The back pad area has no rust, that's just glue. I don't want to sand blast, that shit gets everywhere.
Thinking wire wheel and por-15 or something like that?

Guess I should also cut off the /4 mounts?

I took a wire wheel on a grinder to take the paint off my entire car.. Well… the parts I didn't just cut out. :-) With YOUR hell hole you might just get away with a rag with soap and water to clean that up ! :-)

Yeh I got to go at it with some LA Awesome first, but it does have some surface rust.

BTW I posted those pics just to tease you Mike.

Cleaned it up a bit...now I am just teasing Mike

Such a small area I'll do it right. I'll go at this with a wire wheel on a die grinder and epoxy it.

Back to the intake for a second.

I ported and epoxy painted these a while back, just soaked these in gas to make sure they are fuel proof.....looking good!

You can also see how little meat is left on the head side of the manifold after porting for the big port heads, All the more reason to back them up with those aluminum spacers.

They tend to get in the way if you don't . . .


Also, are you going to be using the relay board? If not, get rid of those brackets too.

I've been wondering if I should run a board or not...
How do you hook into the factory harness with out a board?

Mark,
I have a connector I bought from Perry for mine. Sold the car before I completed the Relay board removal. I still have it if you are interested.
Thanks
Van

Take the free one, they are not cheap!

"The front molded piece with the actual 14 holes thru it is part number 911.612.115.02 and the back half of the connector shell is 911.612.113.05. The same connector is available used from a number of sources. A 1971 914 used this connector on the steering column connector and many models of 911's used them on the engine bay relay panel."

Patrick sells them for 44$

I don't think he was offering it for free...but I did send Van a PM

Har Har…

Dropped the crank assembly off at the balance shop today.

More parts arrived today

Full motion front bearings (Original Customs) from Rick.

I don't see any instructions, I'll have to email McMark and see if there's a "how to" thread.

Mmmmm time to bake some bearings.
The cam bearings look rough but they are smooth.

Now the totally scary part, sand blasting my bearings.

You do this with not just any sand, 120grit silicone oxide

You have to blast at low pressure I used 20psi, normally I blast at as high as I can get (120psi)

You just want to etch the surface, takes just a few swipes.

Still scary as shit....

Well this is what the air dried DFL coated bearings look like....let them flash dry for 15 minutes and then it's off to the oven for 1 hour at 350F.

BTW I'm baking right now...another 30 minutes, but so far it looks good...
Where is the sweating smilely

wow mark, you got pretty big balls. im not sure i could bring myself to do it, let alone use them. are the bearings new or used?

Ding!!!!

Well....they look smooth again

too hot to measure yet.

They look good and the baked surface is stable, the thrusts have been polished with a soft cloth and only a trace of the DFL came off.
I can't measure a dimension change, instructions say .0002

This site is acting weird for me.

What the fuch???pic's are moving from post to post???/

Anyways tomorrows project, new rod bearings

Yes I agree. For mods of this magnitude, I rather outsource to some one that's been there done that. But then that me.

Yes I agree. For mods of this magnitude, I rather outsource to some one that's been there done that. But then that me.

Well now I have BTDT
Not that bad, but the buy in for all this stuff makes it not worth it for a single job.
BTW I cheated, I did a practice run

After the bearings I'm doing my new mahle's RSR piston skirts in DFL and the tops in ceramic.

Hey. Mark,

Can you rebuild a Toyota motor?

What did you do to my car

or are you talking aboot the TuRD.....

Of course I was talking about the Kitty TuRD.

Any other Toyota I had recently won acquired would be a long way from needing a refresh.

Kitty is pushing 350k. No sign of issue now, but down the road...

The TuRD engine will last the life of the truck, but if it was to crap out yes I could rebuild it.
But it would be way cheaper to get a Japanese market engine. They sell your engine, low miles, complete for something like $1500 in Toronto.

Ok, geting my process down, this is a complete 911 engine bearing job ready for the oven.
It all about prep.

I'm thinking of offering this as a service, if I do I need a couple of better low pressure regulators.

Just curious.
Why are you doing this to the bearings?
Mine have lasted 250k already in my 911, and as we have seen above, the TuRd has lasted even longer.

Pistons i understand.

What is the benefit to doing this to the bearings?

Maybe a link or search term to read up would help.....

So you have looked at your bearings?
You haven't torn down the number of engines I have, the wear is often quite a bit more than you realize.
My engine had less miles on it than yours and it was out of an automatic, all the bearings (except#8) were shot and the nikasil cylinders were totally out of spec. Yet it was still a running engine.

Every bit helps even if this coating just lasts for break-in it's does its job. It also adds up to .0005 and seeing as this is a used standard crank (like most at the lower end of the spec) that may be a good thing. After baking the coating is quite durable, brake cleaner, lacquer thinner and acetone don't seem to harm it. Took a bit of effort to sand through it.
The piston skirts, well Mahle has been graphite coating them for years.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_lubricant

The ceramic coatings I'll be doing are to help with heat disbursement much like header coatings, I think most would agree any help in this area is a good thing.

Also a buddy wanted to try this stuff so all the material is free to me to try.

I agree with both sides of that argument.

It's not a bad thing to do (assuming it doesn't flake or gall, etc) and Mark's reasoning is totally legit. But I wouldn't pull apart an engine to install it.

But since it was free, I would have done the same thing. Experimentation time!

I understand most flaking issues have been due to poor preparation or applying to much product. This process is all about prep and the labor is all in the prep. The spraying and baking is the easy part.

On the other side of the coin I have torn down engines and been very tempted to reuse bearings. In fact I have done this on my own engines many times with good results. But these bearings look ugly, not that they are out of spec, they are just stained. Coating these may offer a cost effective option.

Look at these bearings before and after, they are within spec.

How about these ones? These are 3.2-3.6 bearings, worth $160 new.
I've reprocessed the far right one, it is the worst one of the set. You could barely catch a a fingernail on the scratch in the center. The scratches on the other bearings you can't catch a finger nail on.
BTW these have about 30,000 miles on them.
If someone want's me to finish up the rest of the set I'd give a good deal on these.

Waiting to get my stuff back from the balance shop so I thought I'd mess with the wiring today.

I haven't got a connector and being a cheap ass I can't see paying $50 for just a connector, let alone seeing as I'm in Canada, the dollar, duty, taxes and and stupid expensive shipping the freaking thing might cost me almost $100 in my hand.
Fuch that

So what to do ...... don't want a hack

I have spares, and I have a relay board main harness connector (and an engine harness) so I took it apart and figured I had to flip and reverse the wires to line up.

That wasn't to bad...but I end up with 2 female connectors damn!