The tool du jour

Bolt stretch gauge for the ARP bolts. Homemade of course....

With ARP bolts you can torque them, but the recommended (for 3.0 rod bolts) is measuring for .010" of stretch.

Note I checked them with a torque wrench, the ARP recommended torque was .010 stretch.
So i wouldn't be afraid to use the torque if one didn't have a strech gauge.

Had to do a quick check to make sure there was no issues with my crank gear change, I'm going from a CCW dizzy to a CW dizzy and I'm using a 2.7 dizzy crank drive gear.
I've be told a 3.2 gear is slightly a different size and can cause issue, but this one seems to work just fine, not to tight or too sloppy.


Altough I took this gear off my 2.7 crank it is the same gear as on a type1 or type four engine. It even had a VW logo stamped on it.

BTW this was before I totally cleaned the crank and for this check I didn't care about the orientation of the #8 bearing..

Major progress today...I'm beat.... need

Sorry I couldn't do a better set of pic's on the build up, but once you lay down the sealants you only have maximum of 45 minutes till the case has to be torqued.

But....

Looking Good! That's a good feeling to get the case closed up.

Another thing, I noticed your running a single pulley, is it an older 126mm? I just put one on my car (vs the stock SC 136mm) and it slowed the fan down some it runs a little hotter at idle now, I'm going to go back to the larger pulley.

I didn't measure it, but it's the one that came with my 3.0 core and it is quite a bit larger than the two 2.7 and one 2.0 pulley's that I have compared it to.
edit:I get an OD of 134mm and it does have a 930 part number. I'd rather not replace as it is balanced to my engine.

Time to start thinking about the next phase

Pistons, new Mahle, 3.0 RSR, Goetze rings
Cylinders, stock 3.0 nickasil, replated Milenium/LN engineering.

I'll still have to DFL coat the skirts, and ceramic coated tops,

I'm not sure where these originally came from, guessing they may be leftovers from a racing program. They also might be 2nd's as they were a hair under size for stock 3.0 jugs. That issue was fixed in the replating spec.

So between kidney stones, dealing with my kids problems, my mom taking a tumble and the bad boy below I've fallen behind on not just the 914 but all my project.

Hopefully I can catch up but I won't have a bunch of time to on this site this summer.

I did get some more headwork done.
Took me a while to get my head surfacing jig sorted but in the end it worked real good.

No pic's but I also have the rear 5-bolt hubs, stubs and new bearing done.

Nice!

What are you doing for intake port sizes? Are you going to run carbs?

Stock '79 big port heads and I cleaned up the the guide bosses and polished the ports, new valves (sodium exhausts) Eibach springs and ceramic coated chambers and exhaust ports. Oh yeh... and machined for twinplug.
Yes, Carbs.

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Stock '79 big port heads and I cleaned up the the guide bosses and polished the ports, new valves (sodium exhausts) Eibach springs and ceramic coated chambers and exhaust ports. Oh yeh... and machined for twinplug.
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Good choice on the heads. That's what I have in my 3.2 short stroke!

A '67 on a late pan...the stance is really nice. You finished it?

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry2052404

Nice! If you're looking for weber 40mm ida's, I have a nice pair already tuned for a 3.0 (it atleast should be close for yours). They were rebuilt a few years back.

Thanks but I already have a set;)

Oh good, you may want to consider 36mm venturi's if you're going to rev past 6000 much, I guess you can get it together first and then decide. I also installed the AEM 02 sensor. Its great for tuning, but I found that these carbs like to run rich in almost all rpm bands that aren't WOT.

Can't wait to see it done!

Too much life in the way so progress is slower than hoped, but progress never the less.

Heads done, mild P&P, new valves, guides including a trimming the tops and Eibach springs.

P206 spring setting tool (far left) made life easy.

Getting my poop in a group for the big job.

Checking ring gaps, the factory Malhes run tight tolerances .006 to .012 ring gaps Mine are damn close to the .006 mark...just a hair over.

Last time (knock on wood) I see these works of art

Supertec head studs all ready.

Putting the Jugs and Slugs on the shortblock

Unfortunetly due to being in a rush to zip things up before sealants set I didn't get any pics. I chose to do the rockers first and drop the whole side on as one head. It can be done either way, this is how the factory did it. I've done a few 911 engines and I say the rocker first method is the easiest.
One trick I figured out is it's hard to drop the headstud nuts and washers on, I found if you put them on a screwdriver they dropped/guided on perfectly.

Starting to look like an engine

I'll see if I can find the time to do some cam work this weekend.

One hitch I did run into is my cylinder air deflectors. I though they were all the same so I had a prepped set of 2.7 deflectors.....Wrong!
3.0-3.2 only...fuck!!!!

Didn't want to wait so I made (copied) these cool 906 style deflectors out of Stainless steel.

I sure would appreciate you showing how you are going to go about your deck height and piston to valve clearance checks. I am doing a similar rebuild with JE pistons, '72E cylinders and '75 heads but still using the original case but with squirters, etc.

I did that a long time ago, I sort of cheat and do it using measured volume. Basically this gives you both head CC and deck all in one shot.
When doing this I do it at several deck heights and measure so I then just have to look at my notes to figure out what exactly I have.

This link show exactly how I did it, look at what members Haycait911 and cgarr does, I did the same thing.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-...sion-ratio.html


Since I did a dry fit my deck came out at .046" and my notes said that .045" is 10.1:1 CR damn near dead nuts on. To run this CR you need to run twin-plug.

WOW, I've got 6 cyl. envy, I'm sure you've got cubic money invested in this engine.
Any estimates for us poor slobs??

I'd have to add it up* but I'm guessing a bit over $10K in parts so far and I still have to do the oil lines and cooler.
Since I took my time collecting (4 years) I was able to wait for "deals"

Examples
This piston and cylinder kit, I paid $1500 (IIRC) for the new pistons but the pistons were slightly under stock size spec, but since I was re-plating the nikasil (LN) I just had it done to the spec. The result is a new P&C set Mahle RS that is worth $5000 for half price.
Tank I waited and got the complete new DWD tank, fill neck and console for $800
I traded parts for the carbs, dizzy, Fuchs, axle parts, MSD, headers...etc.

I also bought a 2.7 core with fan/alt and a bunch of new parts for $1200 and I'm not counting that even though I am using the fan/alt and half the new parts it came with.
It has a good std. crank plus parts and I've machined the heads, so I think I could still easily get my money back, but it's my backup engine till I'm happy with this one.


Add labour (note I did everything, including all machining except the for balance job) and I'd guess north of 160-200 hours. So if you were paying "full pop" I'd say this is about $30K job. Maybe more.

(* I don't really want to tally up the bill...due to the fact I might shit myself)

One of my "deals" was a new set of WEB camshafts off of a member, but I didn't understand when he said they were built on 993 (964) cam cores but they do work on 4 bearing towers.
He did include the 993 sprockets, but what I didn't realize was that to use them the adjusting tools were $1000

Crap....

So I did some research and asked for a solution on the bird and found the hot ticket for the 993 was to weld up the cam nose, cut in a woodruff keyway in and convert it all back to the early 911 timing sprockets.

So I had my crank grinder submerge weld and refinish the ends, I also had him cut off the 993 power steering drive. That cost me $100
(BTW the weld porosity does not matter, it's structural but it's not a bearing surface.)

But I still needed to cut a woodruff keyway, no problem just get a $25 cutter and be done right?
Wrong!

Freaking 911 cams are so freaking hard I'd need an expensive carbide cutter.

More research...on youtube guys were cutting keyways with dremels...crude, but the key was just for adjusting the cam timing, it's the bolt (or big nut), that's what holds the sprocket in place, not the key. Still I didn't want a hack.

A bit of thinking and fabricating and here is my solution.
My air die grinder in a holder that I built out of a piece of pipe and a Teig lathe slide I had. I got a bunch of dremel stones off the evilbay ($30 for 8, I used 2 of them) and resized them using a diamond dresser chucked in my lathe. Although locating the keyway isn't very critical, it was easy as the cam has a locating surface.

End result I didn't save much as I hoped, but if you don't count my labour I still did save a bit. Oh well...you win some and you lose some.

Where there's a will, there's a way. ?

It's the Canadian way

Now I have at least a couple hours today cleaning all the grit off my lathe and re-oiling it.

The WEB-CAMs built on 993 cores 2nd pic shows the power steering drive that was cut off. You have to cut it off if you want to run a stock cooler.
They are WEB grind 120/104 which is comparable to a MOD-S or IIRC a GE60 cam.
Cam card says to set cam timing at 5.2mm. This is a carb or mechanicail FI cam, the bigger the cam timing number the hotter the cam. In the old days this would be called a "hot street, club racing or half-race cam".
I'm hoping for hot street but driveable, I don't spend much time in traffic.

Installing the cams, note new chains and sprocket

Setting the cam sprocket alignment with a stromski straightedge and she's ready for the next step...cam timing.

On a none engine related issue I painted up my fuchs with the RSR rustolium silver...right now I'm torn between painting the background and leaving them as is.

what do you like?

That's a polished lip under the tape and oh yeh... I installed my rear hubs.

Looks good Mark!

Making great progress Mark!

I always wondered how long those plastic chain guides last, but I guess there is no real contact with them and they are only there so they don't move when the car goes over bumps?

Thanks Walter and Glenn

I've torn down several engines and have never seen an issue with the plastic chain ramps. I say they have contact, they sort of have a zero load, they just barely contact the chain. The "load" is on the sprockets. It's recommended to replace them during a rebuild and they don't cost much. These ones are of course new.

I like your thinking outside the box Mark. Very ingenious!

Thanks Pete

It did take a bit of head scratching for sure. The thing I was quite impressed with was the real Dremel stones, doing a heavy cut like that I was expecting to have issues with the corners rounding over.
That's why I bought 8 stones. They surprisingly stayed quite sharp.

The quality of the real Dremel stones are evident as that die grinder (air) is rated at 30,000rpm and lesser 1/8"shafts bend like a pretzel at that rpm.

Been a while since I have posted, but I have been making progress. It just in to test fit a few things and to tack in the mount.

Quicky cradle I made for my scissor table before I took it off the stand, works real good and keeps the engine stable

I also have mounted the McMarks Free-Motion front A arm kit that I bought off Rick.
Here you see the fresh bead blasted arms and the bearing sleeves. the sleeves are a barely a slip fit, I measured .003". I used loctite 620 to fix them in place, this loctite is actually made for this purpose.

Not shown is I then PPG epoxy primed the arms and parts and then finished with Nason black. It spray paint but I just used a brush, I don't really care if there are brush marks.

I never like the seals on this kit, they are just O-rings, so I'm doing some experimenting.
One is this I use the thick 911 oil tube O-ring and a slightly modified crank timing gear snap ring. Bit tight as the o-ring is a bit small on the ID, but I think it will work good.

2nd I put a beetle upper front torsion arm seal in backwards, used a bead of RTV and it closed up the gap on the bear bering very nicely.

3rd I used the heat tube grommets from a beetle to seal the thrust bearings.

The finished A arm rebuild, now it's time for struts.

You can also see I have added a stock sway bar, my base 1.8 didn't have swaybars. I think the sway bar drop links are too long (WTF?), so I'll wait till I get the ride height sorted before I shorten them up a bit.

Note I've since replaced the stock bar with a Tarett 22mm hollow bar.

Struts are ready to go but I have to wait till I have wheels, got to keep it rolling.