Lookin good Mark... We're going to have to get a Orange 914 Ontario meet going this spring/summer... :-)

Trying to get my ass back in gear and get this done for June. Want to spend at least a couple hours per day on it or the next 6 weeks, If I can it's a doable goal.

The bracket I made to mount the MSD in the stock location.

My starter, Ford solenoid and backup light switch wiring.

My trans mount cable/carb linkage, bit of overkill but it works good.

Cleaned up my wiring a bit and put a sheath on the quick connect/relay board delete I had already made.

Just have to figure out the other side for regulator, battery and the MSD hook-up. I don't want to cut the MSD wires so I'll loop them and tuck them away hidden behind the battery.

put the PMO fuel rails on there and loose 4 possible leaks...good luck looks great

Mark, where did you get the sheath for the harness? Everything is looking great on your build.

The stuff I used is just the cheap generic Expandable Braided Sleeve, the rest of my harness done in heat shrink tubing and factory hard tube. I got it from Princess Auto, the Canadian version of Harbor Freight.

I found this place in the states that sells some real cool stuff.

http://www.electriduct.com/Braided-Sleevin...BraidedSleeving

Making good progress Mark. Looks great.

John

Reason for not being around here much is I'm making a push to get my conversion done and on the road. So you could say I'm around in 914 spirit.

I found a great big hole in my firewall.

I know many don't like the stock firewall pad, heavy known to trap water, but there's zero rust behind mine, that just glue.
Mostly using it because I'm starting to get sensitive to the loud and a weber /6 is going to need all the help it can get in the noise deadening dept.

I made a mount for my MSD out of an old butchered 914/6 repro CDI mount. It's almost out of sight and it needs no extension for the trigger connection.

bit of paint magic...

Ugly struts

pretty parts

911 T struts and hubs, Alfa Brembo calipers, new rotors and bearings, tie rod kit, new ball joints, Bilstien strut inserts I had.

914 V-calipers on the rear.

dead tired.....

That's a big ass hole!

Looking good! You will need to drive it one time without the cover on there. It sounds amazing.

Wow that's not an opening ,its room for other stuff ,never seen one that big.
MSD not sure was going there but researched and found a reasonable high failure rate,moved to ebay and found lots of units for sale requiring a rebuild ....not sure really reckon they are .
Good luck on the build nice to see you are moving on, .

Mark, the only pill I found laying around for the MSD was 7000 rpm.

Hi Walter I'll take it!

My engine to be safe I'll run about a 6800 red line, but it's fully balanced, ARP rod bolts, heavier eibach sport valve springs, etc., so on paper I should have a 72-7300 rpm red line.
The 7K pill should work fine for me.

I almost never hit the rev limiter anyways, as they are actually hard on the engine due to loading/unloading forces...it's one of those lesser of two evils type of deals.

I'll PM you.

Finished hole.
Well almost... I notice I still have to glue the bottom little strip in.

Tried my first aluminum TIG welding project it a breather/puke can.

What can I say, likely not even close to Ben's standards, Welding Al is not as easy as it looks, but after watching a bunch of YT vids I was able to get some semi-decent welds. A lot of technique, like driving a car the has two clutches, two sticks and you have to adjust the timing manually all at the same time.
Likely didn't help that I was using some very old left outside Al sheet I found.

That said I think it's passable. I made the can so it clears the lid springs and the lid release tube. It's fully baffled and has a sump that holds over a quart of scummy oil. the finished install will have a petcock valve and a tube running down so I can drain it right into my oil pan. bottom has a hole cut to 1/8" NPT.

Wonder if anyone would be interested in this as a product
I do have all the patterns and bending forms.

The puke was practice for the number one thing holding up my project...the 914-6 cooler.

Likely the last time I see my engine this clean.

Why I made such a big hole.
As an experiment I left off my front tin to see if it can be R&R in car, yes it can but the screws are a real PITA to put in.
The upside is I can easily do the timing, R&R the fan/alt and even the front chain covers in car.

In she goes

I made up these puppies to attach my heat hoses. No heat for now so Ill just cap the bottoms off, but if I add heater boxes I'm ready to go.
BTW except for my front shroud tin I made the surround tin.

Looks good..

Re aluminum difficulties magnesium is about 5 times as difficult becuase it is so dirty.. Used aluminum is also not easy.. Make sure it is clean and it will aid in quality.

Yes, I'm learning some materials the results are interesting. I'm self taught with youtube, the biggest thing I learned so far is if you contaminate your electrode just stop, snap off the fouled bit and regrind. 2nd is slow down and let the cleaning action work before going for a puddle.
Still working on feeding the rod through welding gloves.

Most of us that specialize in aluminum and non ferrous don't use filler feed glove.. I do for stainless as its a much slower process feed wise as the welds are much smaller.

I see a lot of guys don't wear a glove for the filler hand, part of that makes sense on light AL as it doesn't run wide open. But I still don't like all the UV rays, so I think I'll try a light weight glove and maybe cut a couple fingers out.

I'll have to remember not to pick up a hot piece with my filler hand...but I imaging the learning curve is PDQ on that.

The best is when you have a student bring you a weld that was just welded on and lets you pick it up with bare hands.. Ouch..

Also look at buying a Tig finger they work nicely ..

Making some major progress.

I have the weekend to try and get poop done, then I have to work on other peeps stuff to pay the bills.

Sweet "S" curve conduit to take up the slack in the clutch & speedo cables & keep them away from the header....I like it. Give us a close-up of the handiwork there....

Yes, looking good Mark.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4CaU9UQmFfk

Yea daddy!! Very nice!! Cool huh??

Good stuff...makes you want to make a lexan 'firewall' to look at the glorious engine and distributor all the time.

Sounds awesome! Good job Mark! I was hoping to hear /watch it while you drive, but oh well your hands were full. Thanks for a little morning motivation. I'm going to pick up my six from Chris's house today!

Nothing like the sound of the P-6.

Mark-

Great success, sounds terrific.
I admire your mechanical skills and patience.

We want a test drive video

Oscar

Looks and sounds great!

I try to remember to take a vid driving, actually I did take some driving footage, but I guess my old cheap camera and small SD card only has a minute of storage.

Well it looks like I'm going deeper into the rabbit hole...I just acquired a fuel injection system.

SDS EM5-6F ECU
programmer
mixture knob
2 bar map sensor (will need a one bar MAP for my NA engine)
57 cc Siemens injectors/harness
crank pulley set up for signal, (IIRC it's a GoingSuperFast pulley).
hall sensor
12 custom length Beru wires
distributor block off plug
IAV (not sure if this is for fast idle or AC)
wire harness c/w relays (fuel pump, plus two more programmable relays)
1 wire temp sensor
intake air temp sensor
coil packs (X2 for twin plug)
installation/tuning manual

But what I do need is a intake, so it either ITB's, a 3.2 plenum or something custom made.
I'm likely going to do a plenum system, so I don't have to run in AlphaN. Plus I'm getting old, looking to quiet down the intake a little.

With all the skills I've seen displayed, I'm surprised you haven't made your own ITB's. Some stellar work dude.