Found this pic in my archives;
My 3.2 Carrera syncro cutting it up in Whittier Narrows
Photo credit: Les Bidrawn / European CarClick to view attachment

Awesome. Can only imagine the great noise it was making out back.

Don't click this link Doc....after reading your thread in the sandbox I wish I could buy this for you. Congratulations Daddy-O .

1991 Syncro

The price of these is going nowhere but up.

Nooooooooooooooooooo

Ya, nicer than one I saw go a few months ago. By the time I am up for another project like that, the costs will all be through the roof :/

Oettinger WBX

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j...HNqtkc_YAYPGsxQ

Really interesting information. I had no idea that the waterboxer had a six cylinder version. Just shows how anxious VW was to pull the plug on the rear engine van when they wouldn't even adopt an engine that would let the Vanagon get out of it's own way. You would have still have had an antiquated design, but at least you could climb a hill without having to resort to downshifting into second.

I can't help but think about the EG33 which was designed in a comparable period that had dohc, coil over plug ignition, 4 valves per cylinder, no pushrods, proper head sealing, an exhaust system that didn't look like a bed of snakes and 230 hp with gobs of torque. There must have been a paper shortage in Wolfsburg and nobody was allowed to use a clean sheet.

Thanks for posting that.

That's why Porsche did the Vanagon B32 Carrera with the flat-6 3.2L Carrera motor & all running gear, & they also told VW to put in a 6 when VW asked how they could stay competitive with the Dodge/Chrysler Caravan line & other competitors offering better 6's!

It's fun to google for both the Oettenget WBX-6 & Porsche B32 just to see what could've been, if VW wasn't so blind back then! ....as if they're not now, with that stooopid TDI cheater stunt!


Tom
///////

I've been under my Westy this weekend installing the Gowesty stainless coolant line kit and a new gas tank. That means all of the fuel system is new and the major coolant stuff has been handled. I'm doing everything forward of the firewall so she's ready for a Suby when the Water Boxer poops the bed....
This has been one of the bigest PITA jobs I've done on any car!

MSDS 1.625" race headers into a 2 in / 2 out SS muffler. Even had custom rock guard skid plates under the exhaust system.
Sounded like the Hollywood Bowl L.A. Phil
Click to view attachment

I replaced the starter and bell-housing bushing on Eileen yesterday. Geezus, what a job. I had to remove the air-box, snorkel a bunch of hoses and the throttle body to get the nut off of the top starter bolt

Good thing though, there was a 90° rubber elbow down in the mess that had some real bad splits in it, so I crazy-glued it, clamped it, and when it was dry, hit the exterior with liquid tape, then finished it off with heat-shrink tubing.

Also cleaned the throttle body and installed a new cone-gasket

Gave her a bath this morning and a guy and his son came down from Santa Barbara to check it out this afternoon This would be for the son, who just turned 16.

They liked it, but have a couple others they're going to look at before making a decision. Pops said it had more pep than some others they looked at. The son doesn't know how to shift a stick, but pops said he's willing to learn.

Mike, if you haven't already done so, think about getting the metal fuel line pass-through for the rear firewall bulkhead

Click to view attachment


... the OEM plastic ones are a potential fire hazard

Click to view attachment

What a crappy design with the factory part.

You mean, like plastic fuel tubing in the 914 tunnel?

Ya, ya, und plastik tubink ist vunderbar

Wow the metal fuel thing is a work of art. Nice looking part! Where do you get that?

Hey Mark (or anyone ), how is a manual Vanagon to drive? Is it kind of a beast to wrestle with or not so bad? The pedals are pretty far apart which looks challenging...maybe being in a seated position it's fine. Not sure. Drove a bay window a few times but that was LONG ago and it was pretty whipped.

I've always liked driving a manual Vanagon, whether wbx or EG33. Handling is easy with near 50/50 weight distribution. For a time I was driving mine without the p/s belt on and barely noticed a difference. Never noticed any issues with pedal position although I've had my foot slip off the clutch when my boots were wet.

Chris, the part is called a fuel spigot, available from Foreign Auto Supply for $60. - CLICK HERE

The manual trans shifts fine - smooth and easy. I can only say how a well running 1.9L performs though ... maybe some day I'll drive one with real power

Cool thanks guys. Was initially thinking about an auto but reading about them they shift around 2500 RPM max unless you take it apart and modify it. Hmmm...not the best project for me to do.

This layout just looks "different" but again, you're in a fully seated position. Probably works better.

Click to view attachment

PS - less chance of pedal confusion too with the wider set clutch & brake, vs. the typical Euro car layout (& domestic compacts), but close to the old school 1950-80's Detroit full & mid-size car pedal spacing.

PSS - In re-reading your post, there are shift point adjustments for the auto without tearing the auto apart, as you'd been told/read - that's just BS or over-kill or lack of knowledge. We did go thru a couple of rounds of those adjustments with my long time mechanic (40 yrs.) after the trans rebuild, just to get it shifting when & how we liked it. So that also is not a valid reason to shy away from the autos. They're pretty bulletproof & generally longer lasting than manuals to needing a rebuild (the manuals' synchros often need replaced at 120-150k), & the mph & mpg losses are only a couple of miles for each. It's really NOT an issue for a qualified & knowledgeable mechanic! Get an auto if you prefer, or a manual, or whichever example is best condition - auto or stick.

PSSS - Also somebody did a very nice job on the Wheelskins on that steering wheel in your pic!

Chris,

You probably had heard about autos which were due for a rebuild due to age & mileage, since they do lose performance then.

We've had our `88 Westy since new 4/88 & have loved it as an auto, which we got because it was my wife's DD & she wanted an auto, plus it then served as both kids' learning car when they started driving ... in addition to annual long XC trips & local camping etc. It runs fine & has close to manual performance & mpg, but it did get a bit weaker & started to have that 2500 rpm shifting issue when it got about 190-200k, so we had it rebuilt & it is running like new since.

The bigger issues with auto or manual is it being a 4000+ lb (45-5000 loaded & wet Westy) "brick on wheels" which is severely under powered. So you either learn to go with the flow, or up-engine!

The choice should really be based on which tranny you & the other household drivers want - & being used cars only now, what the best available car is - i.e.: I would not pass up a really nice auto for a lesser manual.

Also, the Synchro only came manual, so that limits your choices for that variant if you need AWD, & it's proven to be a very good AWD/4WD system. We had to pass on a same color Synchro Westy at the dealership & ask for a dealer swap, due to my wife's needing the auto.

So don't back away from auto's due to some bad examples & bad raps by owners who don't bother to maintain or rebuild them when they get old & worn. That's like a manual owner complaining about hard shifting when the synchros are worn & that trans needs rebuilt. They all wear out!

Good Luck in your search!
Tom
///////

My kit omitted the pass though and used a grommet.

The Vanagon auto has a good reputation. I'm actually impressed with mine. I bought everything but the trans to convert it over to a 4 speed, still debating.

Lots of plastic in the Vanagon. Check out the fuel rails. I am going to replace mine with 914 metal ones. Although I have never heard of a failure.

Also the cooling system thermostat housing is plastic and fails. Billet versions are available.

The main coolant lines are all plastic and fail. SS ones are available.

I like this billet fuel line part. Has anyone heard of the plastic part failing?

Great info. Finally found where I read the info on the automatic trans with conversions. It was on the Kennedy Site:

Kennedy Vanagon info

AUTOMATIC TRANS. The Vanagon automatic transaxle can handle these engines just fine except it shifts too soon for high RPM engines. Grinding about half the weight off the governor weights (‘84 and newer) raised the full throttle shift to high gear from 2500 RPM to a practical 5000 RPM. This is a very simple operation. The high pressure produced at this RPM tends to blow up the trans cooler so replace it with a simple bypass block or an aftermarket cooler.

Smallcar makes a trans cooler upgrade to replace the stock one that might blow up at high rpm.

Trans Cooler Upgrade

Percentage-wise ... but why take a chance?

Click to view attachment

Chris - that info is out of context for stock 1.9/2.1L Westies/Vanos - since they're talking about mods to make on a non-stock Subie or other higher powered & higher revving motor - not about the stock motor.

My comments & experience are with the stock 2.1 - & the AT works fine with the "built" GoWesty 2.2 - 2.7 WBX motors too.

Oettenger did some AT mods with their WBX-6 too, & Porsche used the G50 5 spd. Carrera transaxle for their B32 Vanagons. So mods would be advisable for upengined Vanos/Westies.

If you're looking at stock Westies, then you don't need to shy away from the Autos.

And the shift points are far from 2500 on ours, as I can hold pedal to the metal & redline ours! If you're lollygagging in traffic, then maybe it'll shift at 2500-3500, but again the shift point can be adjusted without doing the mod noted above.

Cheers!
Tom
///////

Thanks Tom. Yeah I would probably put an EZ30 in. EG33 if I found a good one but Subaru guys are getting wise to the value now and are harvesting SVXs. Would only convert one that had a dead/dying engine. Can't hurt to try the auto trans as is but I'd definitely change the trans cooler setup. Not planning any drag races, just like to surprise the occasional stickered Honda Civic driver .

Chris,

If you're doing the swap, then I'd say do the mods as they suggested, &/or as Oettenger did for their WBX6 (I think they're specs are probably still available from them or online).

Also, if I were to do a Subie swap, I'd say damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead & go with their best 6 (I don't know their engine codes to say which it is).

Heck, if I won the big lottery, then I'd probably send ours off to RUF in Germany to do a proper up-to-date "B32" with a new era 991 6 & all running gear!

But since I'm not stupid rich & close to retirement, the next engine whenever that is needed will be a GoWesty 2.5/2.45/2.7L upbuild, since I can get a 48 mo/48,000 warranty on it - which is 2x the original VW warranty!

As with 914s - look for the best Vanagon you can find, & note that the pop-tops have better long term value than the tin tops (both Weekender & full Camper). I think our 88 Camper's value report by GoWesty & any appraisal will come in at $35-50-70+K, which is 2-3x what my 73 914-2.0 will be worth when I get it's resto done.

Good Luck!
Tom
///////

Well, I had to look a long time to find a really homely example but here it is!

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

BTW that stuff above the wheel arch is MOSS! SERIOUSLY!

Click to view attachment

So I almost bought one recently that was repainted and needed to be put back together but just couldn't spend the dough. For some reason this one kept poking at me. It had been sitting and needed attention but was allegedly "rust free". So...I pinged Garold and traded some stuff out of my parts stash for a few hours ride out and home with this little piggy. It really has almost NO significant rust. In addition to the usual exterior areas, even the battery area is like new. The odometer says it has 400 THOUSAND miles on it. Have to think it was towed or something. I'll post more pics later. The inside is not bad at all. Outside is a little crusty. It's from south Texas apparently. It needs a water jacket but I plugged a battery in to it and it turned over. As much as I would like to convert it, I might just try to get it running and drive it for a year.

BTW these things are heavy as &(*&! I'm used to cars that weigh 2000+ lbs. We had to get pretty creative to get it off the trailer. And we swore a lot which helped.

Have to say I really enjoyed the journey more than usual. Garold is a great guy to hang out with. As usual he had many cars to gawk at and tons of parts.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Thanks again Garold for a fun couple of days. I admire your commitment to Mom Shaffer, of Moms Service Covers fame.

BTW it's an '84. So I'm learning it will likely need new coolant tubes. Has the lowly 1.9L with 4 speed manual. Interestingly it has a hydraulic clutch. Didn't expect that for some reason. Also interestingly the pedal doesn't move at all . The brake pedal moves plenty though. Like...effortlessly. Doesn't DO anything but it's easy to push. That's OK. I would have gone through everything anyway.

Way to go Chris! Unless the leak is really bad, you can drive quite awhile on that head seal. It won't take you long before you want to convert though. Even a 2.0 Subie at 140-160 hp is a big improvement. Better gas mileage too.

How are you going to use it? I may have some wbx parts laying around; exhaust pipes, etc. I'll take a look. Let me know if there's anything in particular you need.

Hey thanks Marc! Here are some more pics and then I'll tell you my thoughts, plans, etc. Would love some input.

Battery area (which is under the passenger seat)

Click to view attachment

Front

Click to view attachment

Steering wheel is larger in real life

Click to view attachment

yes, that is 402XXX

Click to view attachment

This knob has been pilfered:

Click to view attachment

Rear seat nice, middle seat is missing.

Click to view attachment

The lock pin for the sliding door is missing on the inside

Click to view attachment

And the outer door handle is snapped off. Pot metal.

Click to view attachment

The wheel covers have to go pretty quick. Would like to go 16X7 rims

Click to view attachment

If I was in to the patina look...this would be an easy one to just shine up

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

The "Wayfaring Croat" badge

Click to view attachment

I couldn't figure out what the pink shower curtain rod was for...until I opened the rear hatch...and it closed on me.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

16x7s would be a good choice. Lots of tire choices at that size, but be aware that you'll not be able to store the spare in the clamshell under the cab. Rear door struts are readily available at the usual sources...I prefer Van Cafe (think 914Rubber type support) and stay away from GoWesty (although not in an AA category). TheSamba has great Vanagon forums as you probably know.

Don't know what your plans are, but Weekender type builds are highly functional and flexible.

So Marc this van has been sitting for a while. The clutch is frozen and the brakes are totally dead so I will have to go through everything. Looks like a new fuel tank is like $90. Tempting to just go that way. I smell that sweet funk of old fuel. Did you see the dust on the engine?

The more I think about it the more I realize the engine must have gotten to the point where it was not driveable. The guy is sure it was the water jacket on the drivers side so maybe it was overheating. Is the 1.9L even worth pulling apart and resealing and then getting it running or would you sell it as a core or part it out? The reseal kit is only about $65 but I don't know if it's worth the time and energy if the engine is not worth much. I suppose I could take it apart and see if the heads are cracked. That way I could test the trans at least if it was OK.

I'd like to make it a nice driver and yes, I would add the weekender table and rear facing seats. It's fairly heavy so I was thinking I might pick up an EZ30 or a EJ25 for it. Would like it to have enough power to pass on a hill. Initially I thought I could put the EG33 that was in my 914 in it but I've done too many mods to the engine and the 914 to change that. I contacted Subaru Gears and they ARE working on a flipped automatic Subaru trans R&P. It would work with either the 4EAT or 5EAT. They have not had the time to complete the prototype. I am trying to get the time frame out of them. If it won't be soon I guess I will roll with the 4 speed that's in there with an adapter.

The tank in my syncro is plastic. Not sure about the 2wd tank but if it's also plastic I'd keep it and flush it out. I don't think I'd reseal that head. It's a pain to do with the engine in the van; cooling and exhaust have to be disconnected and set away from the head for access and once you get it all buttoned back up you may have other issues. Pull the 1.9 and sell as a core. If your exhaust pipes are solid you may get something for them on TheSamba; they're notorious for rusting. With 420k on the van, I'll bet the tranny has been rebuilt. They're a good tranny but the 3-4 slider is the weak point. Small Car has a bell housing for the conversion that's very nice. Rocky Mountain Westy also has some impressive conversion parts and accessories. I got custom bumpers and a spare tire carrier from them that are works of art. I've been in their shop and the fabrication jigs they make are incredible.

No way would I swap your EG33 out of the 914. I drool about the thought of that combo. My own opinion is that the 2.5 Subie is the sweet spot for a Vanagon, especially a non-Westy. You get 190-200 hp and way better mpg than the six. The guy who did the majority of my conversion has a 2.5 in a syncro that gets 21+ on the road. I get around 15 with the svx...granted that's at 70-75 mph. You'll definitely enjoy driving the Vanagon with a Subie. They are very will balanced with near 50/50 weight distribution.

Keep your eyes open for some Westy front seats. They have nice adjustable arm rests and swivel bases; well worth the upgrade. BTW, do you have a Bentley manual? I've got an extra if you need it.

ooh I have a motor that would be sweet in that

Ha! Yeah Jamie this is NOT the one I was looking at originally. I'd be afraid to put that kind of hp into this old girl. I bet there would be a lot of takers if you posted that 2.5T for sale. That is a hell of an engine. Great power curve for a 914 with matching trans as well.

Marc thank you for the offer of the Bentley manual. I'm learning that is the Bible of Vanagon DIY books. Believe it or not there was one in the van so I got lucky there. Wow that thing is very thick and detailed.

I think you may be right on just getting rid of the motor now. I saw that nice bell housing Smallcar has. Seems like a great setup.

BTW what are these?

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Look like engine tins or shields. Found them in the back area.

On the mileage the thing is just too solid to have that many miles. I have to think it was towed behind a motor home or something. Maybe it's not the original speedo.

It is amazing the amount of aftermarket support there is. And the stuff is not too pricey!

Thanks for the input! I welcome any and all.

2WD gas tank is steel.
You're in for some real fun getting all the vapor plumbing tucked in as you raise the tank back into the chassis.
Them there are covers for the bottom of the heads.
And muffler support and strap.

Update picture on my '89 Westy.
Added Audi V8 BBS 15" X 7" with Continentals

You're welcome Chris. It was interesting, that thing is HEAVY! Looking forward to seeing it back on the road.

So you pulled the trigger; cool. This will take a couple of years out of your schedule. You'll have the fastest van on the block.

Thanks guys. It's nice to have another project. I AM working on the 914 today BTW. Will have some pics of my new heater core setup as soon as I find the windshield wiper seal things from 914rubber so I can reinstall the wipers.

rgalla those are really nice wheels! I haven't dropped the tank yet and amazingly it looks very clean externally and does not seem to be the source of the rancid gas smell. Might just drain it and see what comes out.

Vanagon Parts Resources:

Chris, Marc & all,

Let me share with y'all the findings & sources for my too many parts, often for too much dough - which I could've saved on by going to the 1st place in Germany below, had I known about them beforehand. For example: I could've saved $500 from them for the window seals kit with the grooves for the plasti-chrome trim which we wanted to keep that look, over the per piece pricing from Bus Depot in PA.

The hot ticket on Vano parts (& Bay/Splitty Bus, Bug, etc. too) is to first look for parts at the German place where GW, VC, Bus Depot, etc. all get their parts - that way you'll save $100s if not $1000s over the USA guys, depending upon the extent of your buy - VW Bus Shop - aka Peter Gunzl.

Note that the time for parts directly from Germany will only take a week or so, whereas the GW, Bus Depot, Van Cafe, etc. may make you wait for a full container-load of their parts (including your order), & the worst for this was Bus Depot - who help me up with our Westy sitting in the paint shop for 6+ months waiting on their parts, with NO disclosure to me as to why), plus you may pay extra to ship to them + them to ship to you.

http://www.vwbusshop.de/en_GB

.

Then also go to VW Classic for the OE VW/OEM parts, then I agree to go to Steve at Van Cafe to order them, since you'll need a USA approved vendor to order any not sold at the German place above. GoWesty is also aan approved vendor, but I've found Steve more helpful & responsive, since GW has become a victim of their own fame, & since they've closed their store at their shop for only online sales.

http://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/...ransporter.html
> Also use this to price check the above & below vendors vs. what VW is charging for the parts, to avoid excessive mark-ups.

http://www.van-cafe.com

.

Then there is the group below in the UK for a few hard to find parts, such as the black gutter trim end pieces for the gutter rails, & the rubber tubes for the wiring in back from body to hatch (at the top).

https://www.vwheritage.com

.

Also check at Fanchers before the others below, for any of the window shades, insulators, canopies & side tents, pop-top insulation & rain fly, etc. sold by the other usual suspects, since Fanchers is making & selling much of it to them, so you can price check all sources.

http://www.fanchers.com/

.

Lastly, you go to the USA vendors in the order below:

http://www.van-cafe.com

http://www.busdepot.com/
> Note that if you order a minimum value with BD, they automatically give you a 10% discount, which I think is still in effect.

http://www.gowesty.com
> I mainly put them after the others because their pricing tends to be higher than the above, & it's all the same parts which they're selling.

http://www.eurocampers.com
> These guys have 16 gal Euro Aux water/Gray water tanks for Westies, & 110v AC kits for camping, & other interesting stuff.

http://www2.cip1.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat...p;model=vanagon

http://www.justkampers.com/

.

Be aware that many of the Van Cafe Parts are GoWesty parts, so you'll want to price check both sources on both - & see if either/both have anything on their monthly sales. Get on all of their email lists for notices of monthly & special sales, etc.

.

Then there are also some vendors on TheSamba who have parts for Vanos, one of the better ones in Terry Kay in MI (??), so just look in the Vanagon Parts Classifieds for his stuff, & that of others. Some stuff you just need to go with the best used that you can find.

Terry Kay:
http://vanagonnewandusedparts.com/
http://vanagonwestfaliaaccessories.com/
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/sea...sort_order=DESC

.
TheSamba Classifieds on Vanagons & Eurovans:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/cat.php?id=55

.

If you need good repro/aftermarket interior stuff, my buddy with a `90 Carat has used these Sewfine guys & had his interior reupholstered by a shop in San Diego which used their materials, & he did a sliding curtain rails set-up using my old OE Westfalia Werke curtains (I got a new Westy set from the German Gunzl guys for my resto), & IIRC they also supply the stuff which GW & the others sell as their own.

http://www.sewfineproducts.com/

.

I'm also looking at putting in a good quality Stereo unit with a 7" pop-up screen with back-up camera in our Westy, & this Pioneer looks to be a likely suspect, but I need to figure a way to mount the rear camera high enough to see over our Yakima Swing Daddy bike rack, without hacking the sheet metal or FG pop-top (maybe inside the back hatch window, if I can solve the glare problem with a film).

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car...ers/AVH-X7800BT

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car...-Cameras/ND-BC8

> but shop around & google shop, since I see them for much less that their $500 & $100 list prices respectively!

.

Want a COA for your VW? .... 1/2 the Price of the Porsche COA, & they get it right the 1st time!

http://volkswagen-automuseum.de/zertifikat...enblaetter.html

.

Lastly, if you're looking for tires which will fit their stock 14" steel &/or factory alloy wheels, I can highly recommend the Maxxis tires below, which far exceed the quality & life of the OEM Michelins which were specifically designed for Vanagons, & the Maxxis have a 14/32" tread depth that is almost an all season M+S depth tire. I've had their LT205/70R15C on my alloys for about 2 years now, & they're the most stable in crosswinds & 18-wheelers passing of any I've had on our `88 Westy since new, including the Michelins. So you might also consider them for other wheel/tire sizes as well, due to their Load capacity & sidewall stiffness.

Bravo Series UE-168(N) | Maxxis Tires USA:
http://www.maxxis.com/catalog/tire-227-104...series-ue-168-n

.

And just for the fun of it, I got one of these decals for the back window with "0-60: 30 mins." & they have tin-top Vanagon decals too.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272172276992?item=...em=&vxp=mtr

.

I've purchased from them all, & was satisfied with the parts & services, but agree with Marc above about how GoWesty has become less helpful over the years, & their prices tend to be the highest - but they too are still very useful sources, & will get back to you on questions & help on their parts, & will stand behind them (e.g.: they returned a bad set of the LED exterior light kit right away & helped with the install over several emails).

Hope this info helps the Vanagon lovers on here!


Tom
///////

Wow thank you Tom! Very helpful!

So you need an EG33 I happen to have a spare long block. You have all my sensors, you would just need to find an intake manifold and other bits. Heck I would even toss in your cam covers. I also have an early MT5, if your not going to beat the crap out of it, it would be fine 4.11 gears.




Do It

Well this is a real game changer... . So you're saying if I have an intake manifold...like the one in my rafters right there...and maybe the runners, fuel injectors, etc, like the ones in the box next to it, along with your sensors and stuff...

Click to view attachment

I definitely have everything to stick on a long block. Let's talk!

As much as I wish I could use a 5MT it takes a special flipped R&P from SubaruGears to use one. The cost for everything to do that shipped is like $2k. It's pointed the wrong way in the Vanagon, so the only other trans option out of the box is a 911 unless i wanted to use a 90's Honda 4 cylinder that rotates counter clockwise. Would love to do a tiptronic 996 trans but I'd imagine it to be a wiring nightmare since it requires the key immobilizer module, key, etc. I think I'd just use the Vanagon 4 speed until SubaruGears does the Subaru auto flipped diff trans.

Click to view attachment

Another good parts supplier


https://www.tk-carparts.de

Thanx for adding this resource, but I wish they had an English version to their website.

It's still handy to price check others, once you find a part you need.

Tom
///////

I forgot to add info on swing-away bike racks, which allow you to swing the rack with bikes mounted out of the way over to the curbside for access to the rear hatch or trunk- as well as for loading/unloading of the bikes on the parkway-grass/sidewalk area, of which there are more manufacturers' options today.

I got the the only game in town around 2012, which was Yakima SwingDaddy 4-bike rack, & have used it with great success on our Westy, & really like it. Yakima now also has a 2nd FullSwing rack rated to 160 lbs. (SwingDaddy is 150#). The design of the lower arms of my SwingDaddy is more rectangular in section, but it's basically the same deal in looks & function, also in silver (the FullSwing is black).

You can also search for other makers' swing-out or swing-away bike racks to compare their products too.

Either way, this is a long overdue way to carry bikes on your Vanagon or any other vehicle, & still get easy access to the rear hatch or trunk without dismounting the bikes, or without hoisting up a heavy loaded hatch with a hatch mounted rack (e.g.: Fiamma's), or without dropping & raising a heavy loaded tilt-down bike rack (dumb idea IMHO).

The SwingDaddy works great for us!

As always, google & shop around for the best pricing since they can vary by $100-200+ - but here's the Yakima website links to both racks.

https://www.yakima.com/swingdaddy

https://www.yakima.com/fullswing

.

I got the GoWesty Vanagon 2" receiver hitch for ours, because it's the cleanest & least protruding design of the Vanagon hitches out there. That saves on skinned & bruised shins with some of the other designs! I recco you wait until it's on sale to save 10-15% though.

http://www.gowesty.com/product-details.php?v=&id=2582

.

Cheers!
Tom
///////

Anti-glare Film Help Please

So now a question for the experts out there on mounting a back-up camera high & inside the rear hatch glass - in order to see over the bikes/rack when backing, but without drilling nor cutting into the body/hatch or pop-top.

Any camera on the license plate frame or up under the lower hatch lip next to the license plate lights will be blocked by the bike rack &/or bikes on the rack - so it has to go high, & I don't want some goofy looking surface mounted solution .... but it needs to work visibility-wise.

Is there any type of anti-glare film which can be put on the Vanagon rear hatch glass, so that the rear camera can be mounted next to my GW 3rd brake light on the inside of the glass, which will allow the camera to "see" properly??

Mounting inside the glass to the L or R or the 3rd Brake Light at the top, & then adjusting the angle of the camera to both look down the backing lane 7 compensate for the angle sloping back of the glass - see pic below:

Click to view attachment

.

BTW - that's a GW adhesive mounted 3rd Brake Light, so I'm hoping to do a similar adhesive mount for the camera's mount-frame, then run the wires to the driver's side cable boot between the hatch & body at the top left of the frame/opening, then forward to the stereo unit.

3rd Brake Light FYI - These can also be used easily in our 914s too!
http://www.gowesty.com/product-details.php?v=&id=23669

.

This is the Pioneer unit with 7" fold-out screen & their compatible camera which I'm considering for this application. Note that the fold-out screen comes out 1-5/8" to clear the dash top bolster on Vanagons, & it's been installed in a Synchro in the U-tube link below....

Pioneer AVH-X7800BT radio installed in a Volkswagen Vanagon Syncro 1990 -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_vDaRmySrs

Pioneer AVH-X7800BT radio -
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car...ers/AVH-X7800BT

Pioneer Back-up Camera ND-BC8 -
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car...-Cameras/ND-BC8

> but shop around & google shop, since I see them for much less that their $500 & $100 list prices respectively! I think they can be had for about $400+/- for both with shipping + tax by state.

.

TIA!
Tom
///////

Rocky Mountain Westy integrates a 2" receiver into their bumper that doesn't protrude.
Click to view attachment