Yeah the MS should work great. I just bought a Megasquirt 3 system. Should be here tomorrow . The 2.2 and 3.3 are easy to set up.

So Jim.... ...you gonna use all 4 of those 2.2's ? I need something for my Vanagon.

mine will be NA. baby steps for me.

i WAS thinking one engine at a time but who knows

i have one known good, one known bad, and two unknown condition, mostly for spare parts. pretty certain the one 5spd trans i have is good.

hopefully i will have some sort of update in the next month or so

hopefully i will have some sort of update in the next month or so
[/quote]
You'd better or we're going to drag you out of the house and make you finish it.

got gm iat sensor, gm clt sensor, on order. plan to tap the pcv valve hole for the iat and tap the coolant manifold for the clt senor.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-sXdjRlBUnE


seems like aem uego is a decent buy and about $100 less than innovate lm2.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HoXTz2aDBqw

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MDT8M...=UTF8&psc=1

I have this one. I like it a lot, I have it plugged into my boost controller. Really easy to read and pretty bright.

pulled intake and coolant manifold off test engine. made blanking plate for the IACV and plate to mount vw coil. ordered some m6 bolts to mount it all.

i assume next to coolant sensor is a sensor for a coolant dummy light (one wire)?

what do you guys think about drilling and tapping the pcv bung in the manifold for the install of a iat sensor. or should i just add another bung for the iat and keep pcv valve in place?

There are 2 temp sensors. 2 wire for the ecu and 1 wire for the gauge.

You need the pvc valve.

Other note, I thought MS3 could be setup for different sensors. The benefit is the Subaru sensors already bolt in and fit the harness.

If you are not boosted then the iat can go anywhere. Most factory locations are the airbox after the filter.

my coworker suggested i put the iat sensor thru the iacv block off plate. sounds reasonable.

the nice thing about gm senors is they are cheap, like $15 $20 new each. iat and clt.

https://www.diyautotune.com/shop/sensors-da...essure-sensors/

i'm not using subaru harness, just microsquirt harness to sensor pigtails.

as for pcv removal.

i have one breather on each head. shouldn't that suffice?

fwiw - the thread on subaru iat and clt sensors is M12-1.5

my latest confusion. seems coil does not line up with cylinder location on engine.

http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/Micros...are-3.4-62.html

ej22 clockwise starting front left, 1,3,4,2
coil 2,3,4,1

i thought banks mattered with batch spark?

i realize most won't understand my question, in fact i am not sure i understand it myself

You only have 17 possible combinations.

Yes that is me being a smart arse.

And four of them will work, but we will make this easy as we can.

Spark plug 1 goes to coil plug 1

Spark Plug 3 goes to coil plug 2

Spark Plug 2 goes to Coil plug 3

Spark Plug 4 goes to coil plug 4

Click to view attachment

That solution makes the wires cross over each other. What a mess so this while logically more strain is easier on the eye.

So Spark plug 1 to coil plug 3

Spark Plug 2 to coil plug 1

Spark Plug 3 to Coil plug 4

Spark Plug 4 to coil plug 2

Click to view attachment

Much easier with coil on plug, or individual coils.

BTW, re-lable the coil to match your final working solution.

Hope that helps if I missed the question o the description, let me know I will modify my post not to steer anyone wrong.

stephen, very awesome, thank you! jim

i am being told that this is the firing order.

Mount the coil upside down.

If you make your pickup 180 degrees out it also has the same effect as mounting the coil upside down.

Your now running with crazy, the key to the entire thing is pretty simple you want to fire on alternating coil packs. In a 6 cylinder you just add a third so coil pack 1, 2, 3, 1, ,2, 3.

V8
1,2,3,4,1,2,3,4

V10
1,2,3,4,5,1,2,3,4,5

V12
1,2,3,4,5,6,1,2,3,4,5,6 or 1,2,3,1,2,3

Dual plugs you just run multiple coil packs in redundancy.

1a&1b,2a&2b, you get the idea.

This is all wasted spark setups, once you go with sequential, things get so much easier Then you have to figure out the logic to drive the coils in the order you want them to fire. I am now taking this beyond your question and sorry for that.

Maybe I should do a mini school on EFI logic, and wiring. We are getting into so many engine combinations it is not longer just a discussion type-IV, and -6 engines. Even -6s with twin plugs makes things just a tad worse. Luckily your Subaru 2.2 is about as basic of an EFI engine as you can get, so a MicroSquirt unit should be pretty simple. Being said we have not gotten into doing anything the EFI input sides.

Back off my mad ramblings the firing order of the engine 1-3-2-4.

In your drawing you have the order correctly as that is the firing order, but your cylinder numbers or as I called spark plug is not.

1 in your drawing is cylinder or spark plug number 1 hook it up to coil side 1/4
2 in your drawing is cylinder or spark plug number 3 hook it up to coil side 2/3
3 in your drawing is cylinder or spark plug number 2 hook it up to coil side 1/4
4 in your drawing is cylinder or spark plug number 4 hook it up to coil side 2/3

Makes it any clearer than the mud it is?

stephen

your last 4 lines are GOLD, pure gold : )
except for cylinder 2.

got my coil mounted
thanks

Fixed that is what I get for copy and pasting my work load

thanks - big help

trying to remove my trans tail cover to convert to 2wd. but roll pin came put but shifter piece won't come off, rusty. also does this piece normally have protrusions where the roll pin goes in. see last pic.

nevermind, answered my own question, there was more roll pin left, outter section.

might have to use cut wheel and angle grinder to remove this piece though

gonna try soaking with pb blaster first.

need to get a puller to remove 6/7 crank sprocket, so i can install 36-2-2-2 sprocket.

episode 39.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJ07FeP3Zng


seems spark plug wires go like this.

guys, how to i order and make spark plug wires for subaru spark plugs and 1999 vw bug coil plugs?

VW coil pack, wow your picture threw me for a minute, but yes that is a VW 2.0L engine out of a golf or jetta, based on the pwoersteering fluid resivor, I would say 1999 - 2001 time frame.

As far as the plug wires, It is a standard on the one end and the other. Most V8 plug wires should work you can get them nice custom ones that you make up, or just go wit a generic set that gets you where your going.

MSD stuff just for example, the price made me dizzy

the vw coil is different than most as it has a pin in the center, see pic. and pic of vw coil mounted on my suby intake manifold.

i'm thinking about these audi wires from ebay: Set of 6 Pcs Spark Plug Ignition Wire Lead For 2.8L VW Passat Audi A4 A6 Quattro

ok, as usual, i am confused. i just installed 36-2-2-2 crank wheel after making the belt at all 3 timing marks. i removed idlers and belt. removed old sprocket and installed new sprocket, lined up the belts 3 marks with the marks on the 2 pulleys and the new sprocket, but after all buttoned up, i noticed that when the cams are lined up and paint marker marks are lined up too, the sprocket mark lines up with my paint marker line, but i about 1 inch counter clockwise of its timing mark.

the odd thing is if i reinstall belt with cam pulleys and sprocket aligned with their timing marks, i expect my paint marker lines won't. i just checked an image of a new 36-2-2-2 sprocket and my old sprocket and they both have their timing mark 180 degrees from the keyway.

guess i'll never know how my paint mark is off

Might be a tad short, don't know, I forgot about the pin / never paid attention to it. I only had one car with that igniter, it was a 1999 very early production Jetta. Thing had more electrical issues than all the Lucas cars combined. It was possessed, so I gladly push it out of my memory banks ever chance I get. Everything else I own VW either uses Coil on plug, or does not use spark plugs at all.

I honestly prefer the latter, love my TDIs, and will be getting another one very soon.

Chris H mentioned the same issue in his build thread I think it was Chris. Getting older but I recall he ir someone resembling him in my mind had this issue when they did their timing belt. Reason it sticks out in my mind is that I figured I would have fallen for the same Subaru magic trick. Seems odd and that is how Subaru will do the trick, I could be completely off base here also, what the F do I really know

i just turned 53 yesterday. few on this planet can talk to me about old age

reinstalled timing belt and think i got it pretty close this time.

also cut off the top of the alternator bracket so i can swing alt to drivers side, so i can install intake facing rear.

tomorrow night i will do some tapping for clt and iat sensors.

got to make a bracket for alternator adjustment. might use some threaded rod ends.

That is looking good

Jim, is your engine a "0" clearance style? You might want to remove the plugs to spin the motor by hand. You want to be sure a valve doesn't embed itself in the top of a piston once started.

On a Nissan that means the belt is backwards. The mark is off 3 teeth or so on one side for some Japanese logic reason
Also, a new belt will have the marks on it if you don't feel 100% with yours.

i made the marks on my belt MYSELF and could have certainly installed back on flipped?

the earlier ej22 are NON interference and is one of the reasons i like them.

http://www.scoobyenthusiast.com/subaru-faq...n-interference/

waiting on a U bend of 1.75" so i can merge my exhaust and put a bung in place for the o2 sensor.

getting the belt right was a little tricky, had to make sure all lined up and all the slack in the belt was in the area of the tensioner.

got to make an alternator adjuster like this. from this thread.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5365250
question, does threaded part between two tie rods have a right hand thread on one side and a left hand thread on the other?

alternator bracket version 1 done. may interfere with timing covers?

now i gotta find a 5 rib belt to turn it.

was gonna install my intake manifold flipped but had one metal fuel line IN THE WAY.
will need to cut the line and put some inches of rubber line.

next up is to merge exhaust for 02 bung.

down the road is shift linkage.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOgNXNUn8zI

got to fab a run stand exhaust that is 2 into one. did some test cuts on pcv to figure what would be involved.

Belts are measured in mm. Use a "cloth tape" to measure max and min for the alt adjustment as the belt will be in 5mm or 10mm increments. 5K### or ###K5

thanks, good info that i did not know.

got test stand exhaust mostly completely tacked up. gonna ask pro welder to finish it up.

got to add a bit more tail pipe and put a bung in it somewhere.

decided to go ahead and weld it up and let pro welder fix my blow thrus/etc and yes that is TIG but most could never tell

popped the trans open and will make the conversion coupler.

like these fellas done did.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=104513


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmPTNe0D-Uc

Looks OK, Jim. I doubt it will blow loose on those welds. No one can say that you didn't get it hot enough. You can fill that with water to test before installing. Keep 'em coming. You'll be there in no time.

waiting on a 1' piece of 1.75 od exhaust tubing to add to the end and add the bung.

my coupler, 2" tall about. hope it holds together.

side pic

if anyone is going ther bremar coupling route and have these parts left over, i'll take them

well. i added the 12" piece of exhaust pipe and then decided to ATTEMPT TO weld the bung on. bad idea. ordered a tap.

a downside of making the coupler yourself is that it will UNLIKELY slide right on with no pressure. thus getting it off one day could be a bitch. a bremar for $175 beans might be easily removable.

wanted to button up trans but realized i never order 10-1.25 20mm bolts for thin cover

so the consensus is to not use a bell crank?

and to go at the trans from the side for side to side motion.

I think the bell crank version allows for 2 the same length cables, attractive to me.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_e9jk6z83k



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ncmaxYd1WNI


and another version


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E1DyhcQuiJQ

SOB, my trans does not have the threaded bungs on it, like ian designed his set up for, which i was attempting to recreate. now i need to fab up something quite different.

only realized this when i pull out trans to measure holes to drill holes in braket to final size

i guess i'll make a plate that attached with 4 trans cover plate bolts, that wraps around the side of the trans?

or maybe i will weld a bracket onto the coldwater trans hanger drivers side?

.........or you could chunk the bell cranks and go with 2 different length cables! And does your wife know that you find the same length cables attractive?

she has always suspected

also, at my work they have/had two 90" push pull cables 1/4-28 that have been in deep dusty storage for years. I just dusted them off for my project and thus will go with bell crank, at least initially.

lastly, my plan for a mr2 shifter mount. bottom flat steel plate with slots for forward backward movement using the 3 stock 914 mounting holes, and this plate will have 2" offsets that the shifter will be bolted or welded to.

obviously a chnge of plan, decide to bend thinner metal instead.

i need to now add the 3 slots.

needless to say, needed a bunch o changes.

correct sized bung 18x1.5 on exhaust.

so kent (76-914) ran his push pull cables right thru the big hole, hum : )

What was I supposed to do? It winked at me!

I did the same thing

I mean it is the shifter hole isnt it?