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jimkelly
just found this helpful pic

and another

and the original

and a custom version of coldwater's

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...mp;hl=coldwater

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...baru&st=100

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=258603&hl=
jimkelly
and for then I get to exhaust for engine IN CAR it seems apmech used a header like this with coldwater cradle.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...baru&st=100
jimkelly
ok. laid my shifter assy in my car and sat down next to it. seems I will want to mount it another 2-3" rearward. time to weld on another piece of steel and drill 2 new holes.

76-914
Jim, you might look at heating and bending it back a bit, first. Your already rear of the original shifter location. Personally, I like the short throw. IIRC, Chris used an extension to meet his needs. beerchug.gif
JRust
QUOTE(jimkelly @ May 20 2017, 06:36 AM) *

ok. laid my shifter assy in my car and sat down next to it. seems I will want to mount it another 2-3" rearward. time to weld on another piece of steel and drill 2 new holes.

I would consider raising it up as well. When you sat in the car & shifted. Did it seem to be height wise in position. I had changed mine from it original spot which was right next to my knee for shifting. I brought it up 3" & it was better but when I reinstall with my new setup. I think it will be closer to 5-6" higher. Makes for quick steering to shift transition. Plus you get to make your center console higher. Which makes the arm rest in an actual comfortable spot. Anyway my 2 cents which is about all its worth evilgrin.gif
jimkelly
getting me a new tool biggrin.gif
jimkelly
making some linkage progress.

another variable are the cables being different from brand to brand. clearly i need to lengthen my bracket cause once i add rod ends, i will need more length in bracket.
Andyrew
QUOTE(jimkelly @ May 22 2017, 09:42 AM) *

getting me a new tool biggrin.gif

Got one, Wish I got it way earlier!!
jimkelly
making a little more shifter progress. should be able to test tomorow. see that one little tack holding the rear assy to the trans hanger smile.gif which is obscurred by a leg of my test stand.

i have to say, i should work slower and check for straightness far more often and i would would love to use more stainless steel but mild steel is so much easier to cut and drill. fwiw.

oh yeah, seems many push pull cables are threaded for 1/4-28 and a few couplers and rod ends will be needed of same thread.

lastly i have to say HOLY SHIT to ian at coldwater for his amazing talent to develop the system he did. truly stunning craftsmanship beer.gif my craftsmanship is more like craftsmanshit compared sad.gif
jimkelly
i am one rod end away from testing the shifter OUT OF CAR.

i will have a video for you guys (NO GIRLS) tomorrow : )
mepstein
I just came across this - http://zerodecibelmotorsports.com/products...mechanism-5spd/
Not cheap at $300 but an option if coldwater isn't going to make more shifter kits.
jimkelly
wow, nice.

seems gate for 5th and reverse is spring loaded,and i am having some issues.

1st and 2nd not.

not sure i was really in 5th and reverse.

pushing forward on shifter feels better engagement, than pulling back.

also feels like it wants to jump past neutral and on to next gear in same gate but maybe it is just a matter of getting used to it?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zE_UYPzY8Ss
jimkelly
seems like a good price for push pull cables on ebay.

I mention this cause there seems to be empirical data suggesting that shifting the gates is done much better using a long cable coming to trans from the side. ie: dbcooper and many others. so I think one 90" and one 120" are probably the best cable lengths to use.
ref: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=102887

search this:

Steinjager Shifter Cables, Push-Pull 1/4-28 90 Inches Long Bulkhead Style

or

Steinjager Shifter Cables, Push-Pull 1/4-28 120 Inches Long Bulkhead Style
76-914
Jim, if your going this route check my build thread. I listed the lengths there, Maybe it was 9' & 7.5' but I'm not sure. Less moving parts = reliability! beerchug.gif
Amenson
QUOTE(jimkelly @ May 24 2017, 09:55 PM) *

wow, nice.

seems gate for 5th and reverse is spring loaded,and i am having some issues.

1st and 2nd not.

not sure i was really in 5th and reverse.

pushing forward on shifter feels better engagement, than pulling back.

also feels like it wants to jump past neutral and on to next gear in same gate but maybe it is just a matter of getting used to it?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zE_UYPzY8Ss



There is a lockout for reverse so you can't go from fifth to reverse until returning to the 3/4 location. Looks like that was your issue.
jimkelly
son of a gun smile.gif thanks biggrin.gif
jimkelly
i'm starting to wonder if this cradle (sawtooth's) could be made even simpler with long sections reaching all the way to the trans hanger section. I also wonder if the cross bar needs some amount of bump up to allow easier passage for exhaust.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry1404662

though I see lots of guys doing turbo thus turbo routed exhausts. though sawtooth's header solution seems to fit beautifully.
jimkelly
picked up a 1997 legacy 5spd awd trans today for $100. it has the 2 bungs on its side.
jimkelly
guess i'll buy a microsquirt harness and start wiring it up. relays and ignition switch and all. guess i'll start by writing down all the colors of the wires that come out of all my sensors, injectors, etc, and figure out what goes where.

here is an image of many of my plugs.
jimkelly
i think this brit is giving me the correct firing order of the coil?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgJy-mJ2xyE


and ordered a shift knob 12mm 1.25 $12 ebay

jimkelly
guys. i know you are some smart fellas. how do i check this vw coil to figure out what spark plug wire holes are on each bank and figure out what electrical pins are for each bank?

is there some sort of continuity test i can do that won't cause possible damage to the coil?

also, my plug to the coil has one fat wire NOT at the 12v supply pin. i should probably move it to the 12v supply pin, right?
jimkelly
with or without you guys, i am gonna figure out, the pin out, of my tps. then i need to figure out the pin out and the spark out of my vw coil idea.gif

timothy_nd28
Looks like the TPS pin 2 ties to the microsquirts gnd and pin 3 ties to the microsquirts 5v ref. That leaves you with pin 4 that goes to the microsquirts TPS signal wire. Looks like pin 1 will not be used, its a idle switch that the microsquirt doesn't support.

Toward the ignition coil, I would bench test this to see what's what. It looks like the coil needs a pull up signal to fire a certain bank. I would use a car battery to supply the 12volts to the coil, and also have the microsquirt powered up so you could temporarily borrow its 5volt ref voltage to tap either bank 1 or bank 2 signal input, then observe which banks fire.
jimkelly
thank you smile.gif
timothy_nd28
TPS pin 1---not used
TPS pin 2 ties to Microsquirts pin 20 (GND)
TPS pin 3 ties to Microsquirts pin 28 (5v ref)
TPS pin 4 ties to Microsquirts pin 27 (tps signal)

You may want to verify this by following the instructions here:

Click to view attachment
jimkelly
tim, i will.

next up, the vw coil.

diy provides this for pin out put i don't know which two spark holes are paired and i don't know which two are 1-3 and 3-4.

MY BAD, DIY DOES PROVIDE MORE INFO ON COIL.

http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/Micros...are-3.4-62.html

http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/Micros...are-3.4-63.html
jimkelly
revised collage
timothy_nd28
are you setting up both crank and cam signals? Does microsquirt allow both functions?
jimkelly
not sure if it allows for both but i am not using a cam sensor. not needed as i understand it.

i did just notice a conflict on what pins to use for the cylinders on diy microsquirt page.

http://www.useasydocs.com/details/wire.htm
timothy_nd28
you can solve this discrepancy by buying the sequential injection upgrade kit biggrin.gif
jimkelly
next week i will start wiring it up using wire nuts at all connections. a base map will be the last issue unless it is not needed and the autotune will create one.
jimkelly
toying with the idea of making cradles that include trans hangers and maybe cable shift brackets too.

trying to keep it simple with a minimum of different materials. should be able to make most pieces from 1.5" mild steel square tube 1/8" thick, and a tiny bit of 2" angle for the ends, and a little bit of 3" square tube for engine mounts.

the scraps used in my pic are 1" and 2", so ignore them sizewise smile.gif

stealing ideas from ian, sawtooth, and japnovak.
Piledriver
Looks like you are well along with things...
For the uS install...
Do consider the sequential fuel kit.
It matters... Not hugely, but it matters, and the uS can use two inputs, or use a cam speed missing tooth wheel as a single input, supports sequential.
Sequential spark NBD. Fuel makes a difference, and you have the trim and timing adjustment in MS2E/uS.
If it was a MS3 you would have per cylinder timing trim etc, but really no reason to go sequential spark on MS2.

Skip the wire nuts and pick up a good, adjustable ratcheting crimper with NON-insulated crimp dies, and a few boxes of various sizes 50pk of the hot-melt glue lined splices and terminals.
I like the Paladin crimper with the angled handle, YMMV.
The insulation is very thin on those splices so the non-insulated die work very well.
The hot melt glue takes care of sealing the possible hole from the bump in the die, and you get a solid crimp every time.

If you are crimping on the "F" type pins and inserting into the connectors, rather than slicing pigtails, you need WAY fewer splices, and need the matching die... A decent quality stand alone crimper for GM Weatherpak (with multiple nests) may be cheaper than the die, and may actually work better.

Why is it showing I only have two posts???? Has been awhile since i logged in here...
jimkelly
piledriver

way to go with those 2 whole posts : )

and thanks for chiming in.

no budget for any extras and the wire nuts are just to get my test engine running on test stand. i plan on all kinds of nice connections when the thing finally goes in a car.

need to get a few more fuse panels.

jimkelly
some progress
jimkelly
update - 22 degrees +-

gonna mate it to engine tonight (hope my engine mount holes are rightish) and try to establish location of trans area cross over tube.

rear cross bar oriented and welded on. everything in pics in now fully welded.

need to weld bar to brackets i made for trans.
jimkelly
my design will incorporate trans hangers for suby trans and,

i am thinking about incorporating push pull cable brackets into the cradle as well.

my thought was that a specific design would allow buyers to know:
exactly which cables to buy, Steinjager Shifter Cables on ebay, $60 each +-
exactly what to cut stock 914 axles to, by dutchman, for $150 or so.

any thoughts ???

i was thinking of making the mass produced version out of stainless, but stainless is more money and machining is more work, but wouldn't need paint or powder coating.
mepstein
QUOTE(jimkelly @ Jun 21 2017, 08:34 AM) *

my design will incorporate trans hangers for suby trans and,

i am thinking about incorporating push pull cable brackets into the cradle as well.

my thought was that a specific design would allow buyers to know:
exactly which cables to buy
exactly what to cut axles to by dutchman

any thoughts ???

i was thinking of making the mass produced version out of stainless, but stainless is more money and machining is more work, but wouldn't need paint or powder coating.

Ask Ben / MB911 he knows a thing or two about stainless.
jimkelly
it weights 28 lbs +-

i'm gonna see how it fits in my car tomorrow.

my boss is riding my ass for not using ROUND tube but i feel square tube makes fabrication easier.
jd74914
QUOTE(jimkelly @ Jun 23 2017, 10:46 AM) *

my boss is riding my ass for not using tube but i feel square tube makes fabrication easier.


Nothing wrong with square tube. It's stiffer in the vertical direction where most load is being carried anyways. smile.gif
mgp4591
I like the idea of the "kit" type development - it offers a lot to the new conversion (or should I say, converted!) projects by taking the guesswork out of it with proven designs. With a few modifications it will fit every engine in the Suby lineup and as long as the tranny stays in the same spot the axles will work. Nice job!
jimkelly
just tested cradle in my car and found trans hangers are about 1" short. other than that, all seems pretty good.

did have to install the rear motor style mounts for trans and did end up using shorter fatter bolts, as long bolts blocked install.

the 2' x 2' stainless steel bar you see, is temporary, it is tacked to where trans should be, I tacked there to take up the height the trans would take if it were installed.

if I ever begin to mass produce these I will take greater care to keep my electrode pointy and make my metal clean. these two things improve the welds dramatically.

next up I will redo rear hangers 1" taller. and then look at designing shift linkage brackets that can be welded to cradle.
jimkelly

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJBaruDcQq0
jimkelly
the engine on my test stand has 2 bad cylinders, so my son and I attempted to remove the good engine from my 1990 legacy automatic (bad auto trans), but the thing I thought would be the easiest, turned out to stump us. I think trans was getting caught up on cross member. so saving final pull out for an upcoming weekend.

need to find out is removing the 4 or so bolts on trans, release it from engine or if there are bolts, like the svx has on flexplate that hold it too to engine?

also, it seems, from what I read on WWW, I can use an early 1990s flywheel clutch etc to mate my 1990 engine to my 1998 trans?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/...ission-removal/

car is available - for free.

IPB Image
jimkelly
it turns out that shipping a fully welded cradle, 40x48x8 33 lbs costs $200 from va to az.

now i'm thinking of mabe offering them unwelded in four places, and shipping them in four pieces, to save on shipping costs. i assume most of us have a buddy who can weld welder.gif

started making a jig and getting my angles correct. as my first one had room for improvement blink.gif

i am also considering welding a flat plate here, a gusset of sorts. see yellow lines.
flmont
Renegade bolts the motor mount cross member to the side runner's so there's would ship in a long tube configuration I would guess
jimkelly
renegade site says the don't sell kit parts separately but i do not know if that is an actual fact?

but my understanding is that it is bolted together.

here is a pic of it i think.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-129-1432868008.jpg
flmont
That's it,..Iam not sure I would like to rely on that many bolts,But it may have its advantages,it does not seem that sturdy ??
flmont
they are also willing to sell there upgraded axel's for the 901
Costa05
Add four detachable casters to it and you can roll it right out from under your car after unbolting it from chassis. My home made contraption worked great on my seized engine I just pulled. I roll it right back under car for storage when i want it out of way.

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