I'm sure I have those from a car I cut up.

just stripped down the bumper. i'll be returning these fog light grills to mark as one is perfect and the other has only one crack.

well, I still don't understand how you guys access the outer headlight cover screw? remove front marker lens?

well, my new spacers work ok

but I do need some clip nuts

gonna slap the guage cluster in today.

Pm me your address and I'll send down some clips

mark, how about I visit next week, I need to bring you the remaining fuse box parts and the fog light grills, anyway.

things you may have for me...
targa vertical trim
battery
clip nuts

to all, while you may think you will be able to remember what screws go where, you won't, label every single screw/nut/bolt/washer

Sure. I'll get the stuff together.

Yup, remove the whole turn signal bucket. and you'll see the bracket backing being held by 3 screws IIRC.

guess if I just remove lens, maybe I would have a lesser angle on screw driver to install this last screw?

Small bit and bit holder does the trick also, remove the turns signals

Click to view attachment

Or take a bit and put it the proper size socket, and put it in

I'm a tool whore so I am sure I can find about 10 different ways to do this with out taking out the turn signal buckets.

Hold the bit in a pair of vice grips

Hold the bit in your fingers

Hold the bit it a socket

Hold the bit in the tool shown above

Bit in the flex thing

Right angle screw driver

Goto autozone, have them replace your light bulb. Have your wife do this it works out better. Have her tell them she took the cover off thinking thats how the bulb got changed.

Drive it up to Mark's shop and ask to borrow the proper tool, and do it there.

Go to any tool store buy the proper tool, and promptly bring it back.

Get a 12" long 1/4" bit, drill a hole from the outside fender through everything that gets in your way to the screw. start the screw take a 12 inch long #2 philips screw driver and screw it in. Problem solved.

Sorry not trying to be an arse about it, just can't believe taking the turn signal bucket out is the favored way.

Carry on

(( driver bit in fingers seems like a decent solution to me - thanks ))

so, got gauges mostly installed but have a few EXTRA wires

red/white with 2 small connectors on it
blk/yel - with 1 small connector on it
blue/green - with 1 small connector on it

and it seems I do not have enough metal light fixtures? calling mark

my recommendation is everyone should have a parts car rusting away in their back yard

since i have been getting my lights and guages reinstalled USING A BATTERY CHARGER to test, my buddy said that possibly my battery charger does not have enough power to make my flasher relay operate properly. so maybe i am premature thinking it is bad because it buzzes. i also have no dash lights, need to look into this further but i know i am missing a few bulb fixtures.

it turns out that my car has dash wiring for EGR and CAT.

thanks dave, jeff and ed.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=269036

tested my buddy's theory that my battery charger was not supplying enough power for my hazards/directional flasher to function properly. so I used jumper cables from my other car to my 1975, and sure enough, my hazards and blinkers work fine.

my lack of dash lights is probably a case of bad and missing bulbs. maybe some grounds missing too?

ok... I definitely have a short in the circuit protected by fuse #7, blowing fuses

did a loose bolt/wire check and found 3 nuts at bottom of my trans loose on my other car, oops, wrong thread, my bad.

got me some stuff from 914rubber

did a little something on my 75 today. got some speed nuts from home depot and put my headlight covers on. also moved my crappy turn light lenses from my 72 over to my 75 as well.

think i found my parts car, a lowly ej22 in need of love going to pick it up at 8pm. at worst it will get me a trans and a bunch of spare parts. engine needs something, not sure what yet. i've decided i wanted a non interference engine, thus 1990 to 1996.

http://www.scoobyenthusiast.com/subaru-faq...n-interference/

^^That motor has a factory forged crank ^^

You can swap out the pistons for EJ22t versions or run run an EJ22d head to lower compression and then run a turbo.

Just for future reference:
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/...-turbo-my-ej22/

one step closer... with a 1990 subaru legacy awd...

BUT NOT TO TURBO

time to watch some subaru engine removal videos on youtube

You've got to be excited.

i'm concerned. i knew the engine has some issue.. but in neutral, hand brake off, i can VERY BARELY push it by myself? is awd hard to push?

i'd like to get this engine and trans running and into my car but worse case scenario, i got a bunch of spare parts. and i get to get familiar with the subaru ej22 bits and all.

What year is the subaru? I used a 1996 ej22. I found out that that was the first year for OBD2 support. The 96 has a few issues that the latter years don't. For example...

The wire harness is different than a pre 96 and a post 96.
The Speed sensor is in the speedometer head . Not on the transmission.
Speedometer is cable driven.

Not really a big deal and we are happy with our conversion. My son has been driving every day to high school for about a year now and so far no problems.

We even put the radiator in the engine bay and the air scoop is still intact, runs about 190 all the time.

1990 subaru legacy awd.. must have been sitting for a while and battery is dead.. trying to charge it now.. basically i locked myself into an ej22.. had to do it because eg33 kept calling my name but i want an, as empty as possible, engine bay

thanks for that info about 1996, as i have been looking at one of those too. so basically i am mostly interested in 1990 to 1995 it seems.

we just pushed it into a parking space and the whole time i can hear a brake dragging.

put some gas in the car, hooked jumper cables to my other 914, and it started right up, but, it shook like crazy, when i applied gas it either stalled out or smoothed out some. got to check for codes.

Sorry I know this is a couple pages back, but wow go Subaru 914. I like how the mustang took a super long time to do a burnout then the 914 smokes him. Was this a flat six subaru motor?

I remember racing these fox body mustangs in my chevelle days, they were fast!

No the car in that clip is a 4 cylinder turbo car. Not mine. There's a GTO video with similar results.

Jim, what did the PO say was wrong with the car? Anything specific?

all he said was that he stopped running it cause he thought it was about to seize. he also said there was a problem with a cylinder. I do not think he knew, all I know is battery is dead and gas was empty but with a jump and some gas it idles very rough. we will check codes on mon/tues.

oil on stick and coolant in radiator looked ok from quick check.

http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm

ok, engine runs but weak. seems spark is ok but no compression on #3 cylinder. so now we will pull engine trans and all else. i am about to go and pick up another ej22 1990. we'll pull all heads and decide which parts to use.

what is a good lubricant to spray on engine bay harness plugs to loosen the up, they are all a bitch to get disconnected.

got me second ej22 today $100.

my 1990 subaru legacy 5spd awd, pulling harness, then power plant.

this video is my guide...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjsTug7X0Bg

You and your truck amaze me!

thank you andy

at a gas station on the way back from picking up engine, a guy asked me what kind of engine is that, i asked, the one in the trunk or the one in the car and another guy told me about ferdinand porsche having a flat 8 cylinder car.

harness and ecu OUT

with only two small cuts to body, one one to finger and one to wrist

and my hopefully to be driver 1990 subaru legacy auto awd white

wire harness question thread..
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=282396

thinking about driving the white one for a while but it has TRANS BINDING which means it probably needs a new DUTY C SOLENOID, thus i am pulling the exhaust and drive shaft, so i can pull rear housing off auto awd trans, so i can get to solenoid a clutch pack. see thread about this...
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread...ghlight=binding

great thread on repairing shielded suby wires.
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php...8&start=425

and another
http://personal.press.psu.edu/res122/cars/...ack/WireRepair/

and another
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2474560

pins thread
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.ph...53&start=60
http://www.corsa-technic.com/search.php (SEACRH MT OR HW)
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2474560
and
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Pr.../SMHW/smhw.html

flatback bug
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6147650

numbchux
http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/home.htm

pulled engine and trans last night. made a cradle for running engine out of car today. this engine has one cylinder with very low compression but will be fine for testing STOCK ecu and wiring for FI. i removed hoist and am keeping trans and wood blocks in place with a ratchet strap, for now. 2.5 hrs of fabricating/welding and $10 harbour freight furniture dolly.

The Fun begins Jim. You may need a few aspirin after you cut down that harness.

Cool use of your teener to pick up the subaru engine.......

Dave

thanks

I have several wires to fix on my harness. somehow I cut several grey sheathed wires. I also need to verify what the diode looks like and find out if it is on my harness. just ordered some suby pins male/female from http://www.corsa-technic.com/category.php?category_id=105

need to weld up a metal trans cradle for my stand and a way to mount radiator. then set up something to hold battery and fuel pump and a small gas tank.

jim

Jim - you're way more ambitious than me. I sent my harness out for mods. I hope to see it back in a couple weeks - a couple pounds lighter.

ambitious, no. poking myself

frugal and on a tight budget, yes.

Don't shy away from saving $$$ Jim. $750 is nothing to sneeze at. You can also build your own cradle and save enough to buy a nice used Miller Mig w/ tank, a pipe bender and a tube notcher. Weld up your own shift mechanism and save ~$200.

My guy is charging me $550 but for me, it's money well spent. A major electrical event in my house was changing out the bathroom fan for an identical unit.

I might be able to help with the cradle. Want to shoot for next weekend on the v8 car?

I already have the suby cradle and trans hangers from coldwater and it is very nicely designed and made. glad to have it.

sunday for v8 car sounds good, got to check with wife but it think sunday is clear, I will place my summit order for gaskets/etc tomorrow.

thanks
jim

ps: i've been posting some misc suby pics here so i can share them with suby guys on other threads asking for help with my auto trans binding issue.

i bit off topic but i am making my recently bought 1990 legacy with ej22 my daily driver for a while. it needs structs and springs. i want to lower it. i the meanwhile i have an ej22 on a stand and am getting ready to get it running our of car.
this is how: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=51784

engine stand getting closer to finished and closer to letting me start on wiring FI. engine and radiator and trans are now all part of the stand

engine plugs f25 and f26 schematics for 3 engine plug type ej22.

latest of engine on stand... amnd video of harness i need to button up.

and my steel can gas tank with fuel pump mounted to lid.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bgDtMq89qM

decided to try a microsquirt based on many youtube vids. seems i need to swap out my 6/7 crank sprocket for a 36-2-2-2 crank sprocket. this one.

based on this thread and below youtube vid.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5365250

spencer suggested this coil. coil 032906106b. it combines coil and exciter in one unit


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wcek255pXHI


http://www.tasteslikepetrol.net/2017/02/sp...coil-mount-cad/

ms coil info
http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/Micros...are-3.4-62.html

Good to see you haven't given up. MS is easier to wire. Do you have a map to emulate or will you be paying a tuner.

guess i'll cross that bridge if i ever get there

but thanks for the encouragement

i got 4 early ej22s, it would be ridiculous for me not to get one running using stand alone ecu. gonna spring for a microsquirt in next few weeks.

very few sensors needed:
throttle position sensor
crank sensor
coolant sensor
intake air sensor
gm 3 bar map sensor

tach signal
2 banks of injectors
a few relays
fuel pump

http://www.microsquirt.info/uswiring.htm

a nice intake piece that might come in handy.
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?S...;Category_Code=

LS V8 info but decent explanation of relays in glove box
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_y4xuIVajQ

MS2 ECU board fits nicely inside a stock Suby ECU case. This is what I ran on my EJ20TT motor in my old Suby conversion. Should have never sold that car. Anyway...

Just clip the stock connector and run jumper wires to the DB37 connector. Better capability than the microsquirt for boosted applications. for NA the microsquirt works just fine.