Jim I see that you are building like a mad man these days. I own Subaru's but I don't have the knowledge depth that this brain trust has been sharing.
I will agree that the fewer moving parts on the cable shifter linkage the better, and unless it is proven, some throw adjustability will be nice to have for fine tuning.
Do you still have Rod on your tech team? The shop looks he might be

rod's on my team BUT he is stubbornly opposed to water cooling a 914 and motorcycles. we are in competition as to who can get on the road first, my subaruized 914 or his vintage triumph.

needless to say i am running behind : )


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rYX2JipppY

you are absolutely correct. i have always used a furniture dolly in the past but this will change : )

i missed this, what a dope : )

That kinda shit usually happens at the end of a long day. Keep after it!

my cut suby axles waiting for a test fit. i expect to test fit axles in late july.

i'll need to start scrounging up free and dirt cheap stock 914 axles.

i will start off with a 914 cv at the wheel, cheapest alternative, but who knows what in the future.

my latest thought is to machine a flange like pms sells for 901 to 930 cvs but machine them for 901 to 100mm cvs.

thinking back, the magic flanges were pretty sweet but a little pricey at $400 a pair.

a new idea got in my head. to weld one axle stub to another and have the inner resplined for suby cv. along with having a 914 axles resplined on both sides for suby cvs. so i can use 4 suby cvs versus a combo of cvs.

lastly, weddle sells a type 1 to type 2&4 drive flange $40 ea. see pic below. weld one to a second and flipped stub axle, and weld one to the subaru cv housing. the question is can a bus axle assy be used 18-3/4" without modification of axle. cost of this is flange $40 x 4, bus axle assys $100 x 2, 2 axle stubs $100 = $460 in parts (plus cutting and welding).

based on jpnavak's thread, i will weld up a suby to 914 axle to make a frankenaxle.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...elded&st=20

his advice "I would make sure that you sleeve the OD and that the sleeve is long enough to be outside the root joint HAZ. I think it took 7 passes to fill the axle. You also need to straighten them after each pass. I rolled them on the floor and would tap them if they did not roll concentric."

today i disassembled my suby axle halfs for the job. and lost one suby c clip in the grass. why do i still do disassembly on the GRASS

Magnet

got first and second cradle made. i will use the trans brackets I MADE from 1.5" square stock, on mine (left), and used part of the oem subaru bracket on my second cradle (right) which is sold.

looking forward to getting started on third

this is how i did mine, trans area.

but i am going to do my best to source used subaru oem bracket for any i build, as they are much nicer looking and much easier to weld in place. and it seems subaru used the same bracket for like, 20 years, which should make finding them used on ebay reasonable.

Keep building those cradles and then fill in with a cable shift. This will probably prompt me to build another Suby 914...

I have been looking for another donor roller for a while.

If I was not about to go to paint on my 72 911 coupe project I would have already started on one.

Hey Jim I am missing something on the cradle. How are you attaching to the transmission car mount? The back end 2 bars don't look tall enough to reach them. Maybe it just visually screwing with my head as the tranny isn't seated all the way in your pic

when i first test fitted my first cradle in my car with a 9" spacer tacked on, see post 192 first pic, i was about an inch short. i since then added an inch to mine, so at worst i may need a thick washer or two. but thanks for your input

but i did use the subaru oem mount on my second which probably lost me about 1/4" extra.

and here is another reason i am certain i am real close. this is a pic of coldwaters trans hanger next to mine.

Jim,
As a fellow subie swapper in progress, I have enjoyed following your post. Thanks for sharing. Great forum.

based on my other thread, it seems that 911 cupped washers are best to use with 911 sport mounts.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...=0#entry2506419

and i am leaning heavily on using a oem wrx header, instead of an aftermarket header as price is the same but oem unit is more compact it seems.

my axle related thread

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=313396

If your going to all this problem why not just machine up and outer stub that access the subaru CV and bolts into the 914 -4 flange, or 911 flange. I would go with the 911 flange, late model with the hub centric pieces on the flange. Strong, OEMs work and you could make it a bolt on affair.

Just me and the odd ideas I have running through my head at times.

You would still need to get the axle lengths set and resplinded.

I would go 944 outer - Dutchman axels and Subbie inner on transide, easily done and repeatable.

You could also use the bolt on adapters for the 930 CV to stock 914 CV flange.

So stock 914 stub on training arm, CV Adapter, 930 CV, Dutchman axle resplinded Subbie CV on trans side.

All that being said I am and went all 930, so I could find something besides CVs to keep off the road. Which is truly all bolt on.

If history teaches us nothing what will keep me off the road is myself, as when I get the car done, I will tear it apart in short order to fabricate something else. Now if I can get it recognized as a disorder, I would have the ability to do it when ever I wanted, and just say ..|. .|.. I got it bad, leave me be.

quote the Chili Peppers "I got a bad disease"

i'll most likely start with 914 cv and suby cv and a replined 914 axle.

but then i was thinking 924/944 cv for strength.

i like the idea of brand new axles and cvs that dont need any modification. though this would require flanges adapted to the wheel side and trans side in some sort of way.

seems to be no sub $400 solution. $150 pair axles, $150 4 flanges, etc etc.

just messing with a shifting revision on my TEST MULE cradle.

getting all gears now and no more bell crank.

sorry to take up so much page one space with my abomination

just realized i forgot to use my ball joint rod ends : (

so i plan to redo the trans arm because without ball joints, the threads on the cable will get messed up very quickly.

some pics of the oem header i ordered (it's rough $60) and of the clearance i have around my cradle and motor.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPfsolJjJT4

revised my trans arm to allow me to use, as i should have originally, bearing ends.

see me shift thru the gears in no particular order


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jThij_uAoXA

The cheapest way out is to cut and sleeve the the axles. Subbie on trans side, 914-4 on outside. That is a sub $100 fix. Only issue is your weakest link in the drive line is in the worst place for service.

meaning the 914 cv on the wheel side?

that said, mine will be powered by a 1990 legacy 2.2 with barely 120-130 hp at best.

doubt i'll be breaking anything

greatest ever 914 suby conversion video collection
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLG2d...ygddDy7lEoCK8pN

next up is making a bracket for my clutch push pull cable.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiT8eFejDBc...pN&index=39

holy shit, finally got the engine and auto trans out of my 1990 legacy. could not separate them but know it is because of the bolts that hold the torque converter to the flexplate. cut one axle and did some things with the drive shaft, and engine/trans came out.

my driveway is now a brownfield : ( even after draining oil and trans fluid, i had a good amount still come out during removal of the later.

pics to come.

the guy that is taking my legacy away needed me to remove the drive shaft today so his dad can come get the car with a tow dolly. drive shaft out and both axles cut so i have cv housings for modification.

tried to disconnect auto trans from ej22 and found that those bolts between flex plate and torque converter and low profile and a bit of a bitch to remove. got to get me a nice 5 point long 12 mm box wrench

But if it's done by a competent shop, driveline issues shouldn't be a problem, right? I've seen some sleeved and was wondering how many folks have done that too but pretty much all that I've seen here is the more expensive (and possibly stronger) solutions.

Jim if you tie that engine cradle to the front chassis as well, you'll never have a rust sag car again

do i hear overkill its mostly 1/8 steel with some 1/4 steel thrown in. mine is not much heavier than coldwater's and his was .90 tube mostly.

i'm gonna try some cut and sleeved axles and will report on longevity.

IMHO sleeved axles are a time bomb for any higher powered cars. Jim may very well be ok with his 120 hp, but my experience is that lots of torque/launches and sleeves don't mix well. In a pinch I've sleeves axles together on formula-style cars and had them last for just a bit. Those cars used hardened 4340 axles and the sleeves were made from 4340. They we turned to press onto each side of the axle (strong interference fit) and the TIG welded with appropriate filler, and torch annealed to prevent brittle fracture. Unfortunately, due to time constraints we didn't get to re-heat treat. I think set #1 lasted about 4 hrs of hard driving. Set #2 was made with a wave pattern weld to maximize weld shear area and lasted maybe 6 hrs. That was under pretty hard use, but just something to think about. The good thing is that when they break the sleeve keeps everything together so you don't have to worry about flying axle halves. Sorry to sound negative but BTDT a few times.

This is what I did. Send the axles to the machine shop to cut them to 18 inches total lenght (should have them cut to 17.5 inches for easier installation). Have one end re-splided to subaru transmission end. Total cost was $180.00 dollars.

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that looks good

my suby trans has the female cvs and my understanding is the axle length is different depending on if the suby female or male cv is used.

i will be able to measure for what i need only after my engine and trans are mounted in my car.

subaru is gone.

i just whipped up a bracket for my clutch cable.

Jim,

Why not do a hydraulic clutch? It is super easy and works great.

"my suby trans has the female cvs and my understanding is the axle length is different depending on if the suby female or male cv is used."

How can you use the male end of the cv? The plunge joint (tulip) is the side that fits in the trans - the male end only fits the hub side... I think.

pics

my cv is not the tulip type, mine has a cage and balls inside like 914 cv.

as for hydraulic, maybe i'll upgrade down the road. simply trying to use what i GOT

last pic is amenson's, like mine.

cradle done.

one issue i found is with wrx header oem style. it seems to interfere with water pump housing. though i tested with no gasket, but it seems a thickish gasket may solve the problem though i think maybe there is a different housing i should be using vs stock 2.2 housing?

when i removed the housing the header went together fine.

relieved to see that oil filter is far from header

looks like my answer is here

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/...-on-a-na-motor/

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f7/t71668-turbo-water-pump.html

http://turbotimer.org/so-you-want-to-turbo-an-ej22e/

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/archive/i...100--index.html

That is a plunge joint, just not a tripod type. As opposed to the 914 stock axle or a 911 type. It makes it lots easier to remove the axle when the inside joint can travel into the housing.

Are you using the stock water pump? Any hose that close to the header will melt or crack within a short timeframe.

Sounds like a turbo water pump is certainly the answer there. Another option is a remote water pump, but the flanges will probably be difficult to fit.

thanks guys for chiming in, very appreciated

yes, seems i will have to change to a turbo water pump. still this will be a hose pretty dang close to a exhaust manifold.

i'll size up my axle like this member did.

and use dutchman.

914 cv wheel end and suby cv trans end.

nice a dry too, no grease

what the hell, i added wheels, not sure my oil pan won't touch the ground

i don't know about you guys, but when i pull an engine, i drop the car down low with wheels off, undo engine/trans mounts, a let eng/trans rest on furniture dolly, THEN, i lift car up crazy high, so i can roll assy out from under car.

i know some lift engine into lifted car.

Better put some gussets on those wheel brackets... Those wheels are going to fold up pretty easy.

That looks like it would be easy to either build a custom housing or rotate possibly 90deg on either one to move it away from the exhaust. I say 3/16" plate, template, drill holes and cut out shape, then weld in some tubing in your desired direction. Plane the metal flat when your done and powdercoat and add gasket.

gussets, fuck, shit. should have used 1/4 thickness vs 1/8.

though i don't see a way around using a turbo pump and i don't mind as long at it is simply a bolt on swap.

alright. i redid redonedid the wheel mounts and used 1/4 angle

short welds mostly bottom to top, but i prefer welding right to left, horizontally, sitting comfortably, with hand supported

Jim,

I didn't use the stock header. I used an aftermarket header. You did track down the manufacturer and post a picture of the header in my thread. It was post 386. It was HDG Performance.

I am not sure if it is less expensive and easier to change the water pump or buy a new header?

Ray

i decided against an aftermarket header in favor of a subaru oem turbo header. for compactness and $9.99 on ebay + $25 shipping.

but now i need to change water pump to turbo style also.

this at least will force me to replace old water pump

thanks

I see 6 other places that I would add gusset's. How much does that thing weigh, Jim?