Aaron,
Now that you posted on 914world, you need to own a 914!

Why didn't you call and let me know it was ready?

Still have to make the pilot bearing spacer.

Once I get that, I can put together the clutch and then make the starter adapter.

Are you going to put a boxster trans in your 914????

Great! Someone who can follow directions! Ok, so stand by the door and watch for the guy that owns this motor! We’ve got to get installed quick!

Yes, I would like to stuff a Boxster trans in the next 914 that I build. Maybe my brothers car once his 901 goes south. Any plans to mass produce or forward things to have someone else make a kit for you ?

This is the kit development. Slow, but moving in the right direction.

I am spending the day in the garage test fitting clutch parts.

Here are some pictures for you.
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There is no clutch disk in it, and we still have to make an adapter to center the pressure plate on the flywheel. That's why there is a gap between the pressure plate and the flywheel.

But it is coming along nicely!!

More pictures.

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First picture looks through the starter hole at the DME sensor. If the sensor fails, just pull the starter and the adapter block.

Last picture shows starter fitted. Once I fitted the starter, I realized that the starter adapter was setup before I realized I had to move the flywheel back 13mm. So now I have to make the starter block 13mm longer to move the starter rearward.

Tomorrow I will be making starter adapter plates from 6061-T6 aluminum. I have to make 11 to be the correct distance.

Stay tuned for further updates.

Nice work !!

Nice work Clay. I was going to give you "the business" about taking so long but I know things take 10x longer when you also play the role of fabricator/engineer. Should be a beast.

An update from today.

Found I had an issue with the starter. Seems the bolt pattern for the starter overlaps the bolt that holds the starter adapter to the trans/motor. So something had to give. I have to use a gear drive starter, so I just made a new mounting plate for the starter with the hole in the correct location for the trans/motor bolt already there.

Took me all day to figure that one out. But in the end I spun the engine with the starter, so now I can confirm the starter will work.

Next up.. continue turning plate aluminum into multiple starter spacers with a drill press and a hole saw.

I got the pressure plate spacer prototype back from the machinist yesterday. I assembled the whole clutch and put it in the press to verify functionality. I have about 2mm gap between the pressure plate and the clutch disk when it is compressed, and it locks tight when the pressure plate is not compressed.

Some pictures of the clutch assembly for you.

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Tonight after work I am going to get it fitted to the motor, and hook up the transmission. Then I get to figure out the size of the spacer for the throwout arm, and the starter block thickness.

Development of stuff like this always takes lots of time.

I am moving forward, slowly, but forward progress is being made.

So it's gonna look like this

All of that fits in a 914 Porsche?

Dang.

A fully dressed four engine & trans weighs 350lbs.
The 964 engine weighs ~525 fully dressed and the boxter trans weighs ~150 with starter.
So +325lbs, +/- for the conversion.

*all weights are approximate.

Except with a Porsche 6 cylinder, without 300 pounds of steel square tubing and without the Frankenstein rear fenders.

But other than that, EXACTLY like this car...

But...

HP output of a 914/4 is approximately 100 to 130 depending on build.

HP output of the 4.0 engine I have is approximately 425 to 430.


So, I am giving up 325 lbs for 300 HP... sounds like a good trade to me!

I love the HP jump. I've driven small block chevy conversions and didn't like them so I'm always concerned about extra weight. Granted, our cars put the weight in the right place and proper suspension setup can make a huge difference. Your car should be an E ticket ride for sure.

Yesterday I got the clutch hooked up and the transmission installed. I made a temporary spacer for the clutch arm pivot to move the throw-out bearing closer to the pressure plate.
I tested the clutch with a grease gun hooked to the slave cylinder. The clutch works fine. I also mounted the starter to get the spacing between it and the ring gear correct.
I had to add a brace to keep the starter from shifting, as I don't have the starter adapter made yet. But the starter engages fine and the engine cranks.

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I have to get different bolts for the pressure plate, as the heads of the current ones keep hitting the inside of the bell housing. I also have to pick up the replacement backup light switch from an early Boxster.
The later Cayman switch is too long and interferes with the battery cable lead to the starter.

Going to see my machinist this week to get the spacer for the clutch arm and the starter block made.

This has to be the slowest part of the development.

But I am making progress..

This is going to be the coolest ride on the planet. Above all keeping it Porsche is very special. Some have tried to persuade me to go to the dark side, renegade my 914, this thread keeps me honest. The challenges you have faced putting this terrific ride together are monumental. You have tremendous skill and patience. Your truly inspirational.

Today I got to work on my 4.0 conversion. The Cayman transmission has a hydraulic clutch, so I needed to make a way to hook it to the existing clutch pedal.

I fabricated a metal plate to hook to the pedal box, and stick out to the side to mount the clutch master. Simple plate with holes. I had already pulled the pedal box and brake master out of the chassis, so I bolted them together with the plate, and bolted the clutch master to the plate.

I marked where the clutch master would meet the clutch pedal. Then I disassembled the pedals, pulling the clutch pedal and arm. I won't need the spring with the hydraulic master, so it wont be reinstalled.

I drilled into the arm, and put a 6mm pin with a threaded end into it. That has a brass bushing that is 6mm on the inside, and 8mm on the outside so it fits in the factory end of the 964 clutch master cylinder.

Here are some picts of the assembled pedal box with the 964 clutch master.

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The plate I made is just a template to determine spacing between the brake and clutch masters. I had not trimmed it down when those pictures were taken.

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This is the area on the chassis I have to modify. The plate is hanging off the stud on the left. It was trimmed to the correct length, and tapered to fit the clutch master cylinder location. I put a bare pedal box in the chassis so I could use it for the studs.

The black lines show where it needs modified. I have figured out that I need to cut the right vertical line, and the bottom line, then pull it out so that it is flat. I can then add metal on the side and the bottom to fill in the open holes.

Because of the neighborhood, my garage curfew is 9:00 PM. So I had to stop for the night.

More to come tomorrow (Unless we go to visit my MIL).

Cool!

I have two questions. The position where it’s connected, will it allow full stroke of the clutch master cylinder? Also, since the clutch master rod is below the clutch pedal arm, does this setup allow for the clutch pedal arm it’s full swing arc without hitting the clutch master rod? As much thought as you’ve put into this build I’d bet you’ve accounted for all this. Hard to tell from the pictures, but the horizontal portion of the clutch pedal arm looks really close to the clutch master rod.

The clutch pedal is against the top stop when the clutch master is fully extended. When the pedal is down, the clutch master reaches full stroke. There is a recess in the floor for the end of the clutch pedal that also acts as a stop. I won't know if that works correctly until I get it on the car. But I am fairly sure it will. The pedal doesn't reach the bottom of the recess on either of the other two 914s when the clutch is adjusted correctly.

I am willing to bet most of you never realized that recess was there. It's built into the left mount for the crossmember.

What gauge metal is that plate? Looks thin? You running AN-3 down the old clutch tube like the rest of us?

The plate was made as a template to use to determine the location for the clutch master cylinder, not to take the whole load. I may weld it on as a doubler once I get the whole moved out. I have some metal from a parted out 914 to use for the extensions.

The metal the plate was made from is the same thickness as the pedal box. It flexes because it doesn't have any reinforcement bends in it.


The line from the clutch master to the engine compartment will be run next to the brake line down the tunnel. I probably won't use the clutch tube for anything.

..........way interesting

It's your build but you might want to rethink that. Using the old clutch cable tube as a conduit will make it simple to R&R the AN-3 hose should the need arise; keep any unforeseen leaks out of the tunnel>cabin>carpet; prevent peaks & valleys that occur with non supported hose.

It is not AN3. It is bubble flared steel tubing, just like the brake line. I just bought all the tubing and I will be installing it this weekend.

Found an article on Pelican showing how to "back date" a 964 motor with an engine mounted oil cooler.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911...here-s-how.html


So today I pulled the camshaft off the Left side of the 4.0. Going to have the power steering pump drive machined off of it so I can transfer the factory 914-6 engine mounted oil cooler from the 2.4. It will make hooking up the oil lines and mounting the rear engine tin much easier.

I also got the master cylinder installed and the steel lines hooked up. Next I have to do the clutch master cylinder plumbing. No pictures, but I promise some tomorrow.

That will be a fast car when finished,do the Audi transmissions all suffer from starter location issues also or is it just the boxster trans ?.
What have you planned for extra oil cooling after the 964 cooler mod ?.
Thinking that Pelican custom made cooler duct is rather large ? hope there is no loss of cooling to each cylinder,however the fan design for is much improved on the 993 engine so maybe not matter ?.
Great build keep it up .

The Porsche Boxster/Cayman transmissions are the same as the Audi transmissions, so they will have the same starter issues.

I am also adding 2 factory 964 oil coolers on either side of the transmission to make sure it stays cool. The engine mounted oil cooler is more about hooking up the oil lines.The extra cooling is a bonus. I plan on cutting the cooler feeds off a 911 shourd and using them on the 964 shroud. I think it will be simpler that way.

Today I get to pull the cooler off the 2.4L so I have have it cleaned before installation. I am also going to finish up extending the DME harness so it fits the chassis right.

Thanks for the reply great build,good call on the cooler they tend to get rather dirty inside ,IMO more than most think,blew a cooler sold to me by the PO ,the replacement one was filthy even after I soaked it ,ultrasonic cleaning really finished the cleaning process.
The cooler ducting what ever you choose will be dependant on the shape of the 993 shroud to how it fits,may need work ?,I seem to remember the latter ones have more area around where the cooler mounts.

Go well

I made a lot of progress this weekend, so I wanted to share some photos.

DME wiring in Engine compartment (Sorry it's blurry)

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Mount for Coils

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DME fuse box and relays. I got rid of the problematic DME relay for 3 solid state relays. The wire over the last relay is the connection for the HEGO sensor.

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I have never had a proper oil line hook on my conversion. So I bought one from Restoration design and installed it.

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Steel starter mount. We found it much easier, cheaper, and lighter to make this than mill out a honking big expensive block of aluminum.

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After the first one was built, I added it to the motor. Once it was properly aligned (see the empty hole above the adapter) I found out it was too short and the gear on the bendix was engaged all the time. So I extended it with some steel tubes from the local Ace hardware.

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View down the starter hole showing the DME sensor. To replace the DME sensor, just remove the starter mount.

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More updates on the oil cooler backdate and the clutch hydraulics to follow.

Well....

Got the cleaned 914-6 oil cooler back. Tried to install it.

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The oil cooler sticks out from the back of the case about 1/2 inch. That means the adapter plate hits it. I already pulled the cam, had the power steering pump drive removed, put a plug in the back of the cam carrier, and put it all back together, including timing the cams. And I had the adapter fitting made to hook the threaded fitting in the engine case to the bottom of the 914-6 oil cooler.


Modifying a factory -6 oil cooler is out of the question. So I have a 964/993 oil line adapter for early cars coming from Pelican, and an oil cooler conversion fitting coming from Clewett. I am going to combine the two to make an adapter for the oil line.

Next up is to install the instrument cluster, run the wiring for the fuel pump and the diagnostic connector, pull the tank so I can change the fuel pump, and mount the ECU and altitude sensor. The ECU is going on the passenger side foot well wall and I was paranoid about drilling holes into the tank when I put in the ECU.

Instrument cluster pictures.

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Made the first prototype of the oil cooler block off for the engine, and I need to cut out the sheet metal to make the second version. That one I am going to get TIG welded so it looks nice. (I never learned to make pretty welds).


Purchased a second 964 oil cooler, and a MAF replacement from a 964 RS. The cooler is here. The MAF and the oil line parts are on the way.

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Gotta make time to put a clutch in Betty's car too.

Today was to put the engine and trans combo into the car. All the engine tin is done, the transmission mount is done, wiring is done, plugs and wires are in the car.

We are ready to put it in the car.

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I get the front engine mount hooked up (with lots of profanities) and I run into this:


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So I start second guessing the trans mount. But it was built off a jig that fits a 901 trans. So it's not wrong.

I do some more looking. Seems the new motor mount for the 3.6 based engine is longer.


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I did a quick measurement against the one on the 2.4, and it is shorter, about the same amount as my transmission mounts are off.

So I called Rich Johnson. He made the mount. The reason it's longer is to clear the stock pulleys on the 3.6. Mine has a Clewett serpentine belt setup. I don't need the extra space for the pulleys. So I am going to rework the mount to be the same length as the one on the 2.4.



There are days when I wonder why I started this project.

that sure is a lot of work Clay! We put a 964 in a 914 a couple of years ago, what an effort! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjp1hi28rug

Uhh, because you don't want to waste your life watching TV and would rather do something constructive with your finite time on Earth?

Amen brother.

More like he wanted to spend ungodly amounts of money. (my 914 is still without a paint job)

Or... he wanted time alone in the garage but had the misfortune to pick a project that required assistance - so he ended up stuck in the garage with his wife this past weekend putting the transmission and motor together, taking it apart, putting it together, taking it apart - 6 times total! I remember the number because I kept saying "once for each cylinder"!

Or... he started his car 'hobby/career' (waaaaay back as a teenager) as a drag racer (still has the NHRA license) and just... can't ... seem... to ... overcome his irrational desire for stoopid, crazy horsepower (I refer to it as a handicap, but hey, I can still beat him on an autocross course).

This is what happens when you post on 914 World after a few beers.

Don't tell us what happened after a few more

She fell asleep muttering something about "Please don't take it apart and put it back together one time for each spark plug."

(It's a twin plug engine)

Your a very fortunate man to have a girl that will roll up her sleeves and lend a hand.

The above shows so very many reasons why we love Betty! (And tolerate Clay! )

--DD

My wife loves to say, I could have worse habits than my project car. Support is great :

Betty always says "It's a hobby that keeps you off the streets. Literally off the streets."

Cheaper than a crack habit and you have more than bad teeth to show for it.
Even if it is still on jackstands.