You should weigh it while it's out. Inquiring minds are curious...

If I see it in a car, I will let him know that I know you.

Or maybe I shouldn't??

The only thing I have to weight it with would be a glass bathroom scale, so that's not going to happen. Sorry.

Voted! Clear Coat it! It looks so vintage. Reminds of those stolen engines Pelican help find.

I refuse to be…jealous…I think…maybe…oh what the hell. I am. Nice power plant.

For all that dig the clear...this one on Monte Shelton's RSR in the Riverside Raceway period
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Last night I got new 911 sport mounts installed on the chassis, and got the engine in position to reinstall it. It should be back in the car over the next few days.

Hopefully back up and running this weekend!

So there was an issue with the motor, and I didn't take the car to the Hill Country Rally.

So I pulled the motor back out to start the Flat Fan/ITB/MS3Pro install. I didn't take pictures of the boring tear down stuff, but the motor is now down to a long block.

Here is the first thing done...

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It needs a cam sensor to replace the one in the now deleted distributor.

Today we got the big six down to the car wash sans motor, and cleaned out all the crud that accumulated from the oil coming out of the warped cam box.

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I swear that washing a car is just transferring the dirt off the car and on to the person washing the car.

Looks like new Clay

.

Today's progress...


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There is a big hole behind the original fan location. So I am going to have to make a block off plate for it.

After the picture, I made the holes in the shroud for the wiring for the two knock sensors. They are the same size as the holes in the original 964 fan shroud, so I can use the original grommet setup.

do you have to do firewall mods for the alternator position?

engine looks horn. you almost want a circular hole cut in the engine lid to cop an eyeful of that fan like the old 917s.

I had a Paxton supercharger for my 3.2 but gave it up when I realized it would hit the 914 firewall.

Just read through whole thread

You have a Unicorn Wife!

The comment "Literally off the road" rolled me out of my chair laughing...

Way cool car!

Where's the compressor going?
I was SO happy when you chose to NOT drive it off the PS drive sprocket. That spot is a BITCH to get to on a 964. It would be easier in a 914 but still damn tight.

That MS3 pro has the ability to drive a PWM compressor!
I'm going to have to get one for my 75 for that reason alone.

Are you going to have enough room for a top mount condenser?
The current fan mounted directly underneath the spot appears to be of adequate size.
Might not even need a shroud...

I've had excellent results using this line of condenser. They have multiple sizes available.
https://www.oldairproducts.com/product/cond...overall-11-1424

All the little holes give you unlimited mounting options and the mounting hardware has proven nicely adaptable. They come with little stainless "straps" that can be bent so the mounting is both rigid but has enough flex to allow for expansion across the core.

These folks are my "go-to" for hose and fittings.

https://coldhose.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_eL...ASAAEgIZIvD_BwE

The only type I use now is what they call "reduced barrier"

It's smaller and more flexible than standard barrier hose and only slightly more expensive.

I have a Mastercool hydraulic hose crimper that will be available to you if you don't have one. SO MUCH easier than manual crimpers...
https://www.mastercool.com/product/71500/

Looking forward to meeting both you and you wife soon.

Rick

Wow. And a clean car too! Yep. Envy.

I am using coil on plug, so there is no distributor. The alternator will be placed lower, down where the distributor is located, to clear the firewall.

I have a GT engine lid, so the fan will be visible through it. My only worry is getting something sucked into the fan while running it when working on it.

Rick,

The compressor is going in the front trunk. It is an electric compressor, so all the plumbing will be contained up front. I am going with a 250 amp alternator to make sure I have enough juice to run it. A big battery cable will run to the compressor controller, and it will be tied into the ECU to insure the engine idles up under the additional alternator load.

I have a parallel flow condenser for the front trunk, and I am thinking of adding a smaller one on the outlet side to provide some initial temperature drop of the refrigerant. I know the location is not ideal, but my engine compartment is really crowded. If my math is correct, the ratio of condenser to evaporator should be correct. And I am going to put a really big fan (or multiple fans) on the condenser, and make sure there is a low pressure area behind the condenser outlet.


And I have something for you...

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It still needs LOTS of additional cleaning before I put the motor back in. I am also going to pull the trailing arms and fix the park brake setup. The park brake was installed a long time ago, and at the time I didn't realize I needed a stop block for the shoes. So I am pulling the trailing arms and fixing that too. I also have a potential new way of actuating the park brake, so I will be documenting that too.

Ohh, happy day!
You have the unicorn part I need!

Ratio of condenser to evaporator is engineering gobbly-gook as far ss I'm concerned.

There appears to be zero downside to having too much condenser...

It just makes everything work easier-better.

Your suggestion of "just running two condensers" was a slap in the face for me.

I thought "Duh, you moron, so easy and someone else had to tell me something I already knew."
Dual, in series, condensers KICK ASS!

Above the engine, with the airflow that the engine fan requires, is an excellent idea IMO.

You have a billy bad-assed fan in the correct location as it sits...

Too bad you're not going to have AC stuff back there. It would vastly simplify everything to keep it all up front and not clutter up the masterpiece you're installing so I understand "why".
I'm VERY interested in the ac system you have designed. If you can do it with a standard charging system (250 amps 12V is still "standard" in my book) and not require a 600-volt battery make it all the easier. Your alternator will require it's own cooling system I believe.

I've always thought running a Prius AC system (with the big battery and all) would be a good option for a "pro-mod" car. The late model Cadillac Escalade Hybrid uses one of those, completely divorced from the engine, mounted on the right fenderwell.
It takes longer to cool the big beast down but those will kick 35 degrees out of the vents and a normal one is lucky to hit 42. The one that I have messed with was black and it was a 100+ degree day. Worked far better than I expected.

Shoot me a link/info on your electronic compressor.
"Enquiring minds want to know!"
Most electronic compressors REQUIRE special di-electric oil and Toyota suggests replacement of everything the refrigerant touches for an oil contamination issue.
The whole enchilada, 6k plus...

One last thought- a finned discharge line with proper airflow can add additional cooling as can a secondary cooler (modern 1234 systems have this).

Now, I'm even more interested in meeting you.
Thanks
Rick

Great work Clay. Thanks for sharing.

Henry

Does the alternator clear the firewall?

Love that fan shroud

@ClayPerrine

I like to stay on top of things and make sure all my LEDs work for folks. So this one is only 3 years old...

I'm hoping it's all worked out for you.

For your front turnsignals, I was offering 'Euro' which would act like the original Euro lights where the white lights stayed on with turnsignals. The 'Blanking' you have was an upgrade like modern cars where the white running lights turn off with turnsignals on that side for better contrast.

I don't do the 'Euro' front turnsignals any longer. All boards have white LEDs blank out with turnsignals.

@ClayPerrine
@mepstein

Would this flat alternator belt work on a 911? I have the high output alternator with standard V-belt and was wondering if the flat belt with tensioner would be better.

Jerry,

Yes, the serpentine belt conversion will work with the high output alternator. Clewett engineering even makes an underdrive belt kit to increase the fan/alternator speed.

Here's the link to their page: https://www.clewett.com/index.php?main_page...ex&cPath=60

Clewett's kits were designed for the 911, and the tensioner had to be slightly modified for use with a 914. I know there was a recent thread on it, but I don't have it handy. The tensioner attaches to the 911 motor mount on a part that is not present in the 914 motor mount. Clewett redesigned the tensioner, and I have not seen the new design, so that may not be true any more.

I hope that helps.

Yes, it did. I had the boards wired backwards, with the yellow lights on as the running lights and the white lights as the turn signals. Once I switched them, they worked fine.

Thanks for checking up on me.

Clay

Clay; you should be good to go with the gt engine lid keeping 99% of debris from sucking into the fan while under way. Working in the engine bay while it's running; don't wear loose fitting long sleeve shirt, keep anyone with long hair away from looking over the fan, and no loose shop rags left near the fan. Dirt and gravel roads tend to throw debris up from below and suck back into the fan downdraft. When parked (not running) you might want to make a simple plexi disc to cover the top of fan housing...I've seen several displayed on 917's at Rennsport 7.

Clay, we might have spoke about this; but make sure that this alum breather tube is tightly in place.
On the factory flat fan units these have been known to work loose (pressed fit) and you risk major oil loss during competition ! I've run a thick bead of JB weld around the base of the alum tube for extra safety & keep on my check list.

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@ClayPerrine

Thanks Clay. I reached out to Clewett to see which kit would work with my '86 930 turbo. I don't like the tensioned V-belt with the high output alternator. Plus the high output alternator has to spin at a higher minimum speed than the OEM alternator else it won't generate enough voltage to keep the system voltage above 13V.

@spoke I thought this was for a 914-6 conversion. If it is on a 930, then it should work great. If you need extra speed, get the underdrive kit. I would always suggest it here in Texas for the additional cooling, but it also helps increase the low speed charging.

So I am finally getting back to working on the new EFI system for my 914-6 conversion.

I am finishing up the new relay box for the MS3Pro.

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This goes in the same location as the factory relay board. It has fuses and 6 relays for the EFI, the baro sensor, and a 14 pin connector to hook it to the rest of the harness.

I stopped because I have to go get loop connectors for the ground leads and for the power connections. I also need to get a new 14 pin connector. That one is broken and glued back together.

Clay,
Engine looks so 917teenish.
I think your engine is F*&KI$$ awesome!
Matt

Still wondering if the alternator bumps against the firewall.

So am I. My plan is to use a modern GM 300 amp Hairpin style computer controller alternator and put it low on the right where the distributor was, but I am not sure if it will clear the firewall or not.

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I am going to run it from the same serpentine belt as the fan, so if the belt breaks, I get a generator light that tells me before the engine overheats.

The alternator will be controlled by the MS3Pro ECU to only put out the amperage needed. But I have to have the amperage to run the Electric AC compressor, so I have to go with something stout.

I had bought a supercharger that went into the same space as your alternator but there was no way to fit it in the 914. There is a bump out for the fan but then the metal moves back to the engine.

I hope you are wrong, but if not, then I will add a dimple for the alternator pulley.

This is Steve McQueen cool, Clay