Congrats with your progress. Quick question, since you're doing this big build, have you ever thought of using a 993RS intake and or a Rothsports RS intake? If you've come across one, I'm interested.
Thanks

I am going to use the 964 plastic intake. I am trying to keep the physical stuff on the engine easy.

Update:

Went to the machine shop today. They still have to bore the cases for the cylinders. It is on the schedule for Wednesday. Then I can come pick up them up and start assembly.

In the interim, I have been in parts acquisition mode. Here are some of the items:

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Used single mass flywheel and ring gear.

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Billet 964 valve covers. They are about 25% of the cost of factory new valve covers, and they are supposed to seal better.

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Block off for the top of the fan shroud.



Based on recommendations from the cam grinder, I decided to use a 993SS cam grind. I sent them off to have them reground, and I got a quote for a new chip for the ECU. The cam and chip updates change the estimated HP to 375. I also have the G86-21 Boxster 6-speed on the way.

I got the engine cases back, and started assembling the engine this morning.

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I was putting the case halves together, and I got bit hard by the engine case. To the tune of 7 stitches to the end of the finger I drive with... Yes, that finger. I kept making jokes with the doctor and the nurse about " this is not an editorial comment, I am just getting the other fingers out of the way"

This sucks. I am finally able to make progress on my engine and now I have to stop. My cams should be done on Tuesday, and I was hoping to have the engine assembled and ready for the cams when they arrive.

Maybe I will get out there tomorrow and keep going.

Nice motor there....

and OUCH, small world, I too cut myself yesterday splitting the case on my 1.8 /4 I don't think the factory believes in de-burring anything!

No stitches for me, still hurts and it could have worse for sure!

Sorry to hear about the finger. But the assembly so far looks great.

looking good clay!
sorry bout your finger


cjl

Seven stitches.
As a reminder to timesert the studs on a set of cases that will squirm around with the added power.
The cost is so small and adds so much clamping force.
Use the new ceramic filled epoxy,ensure there are no risers on the mating surfaces.
Do check the mating case faces for flatness on a granite block or cmm,trial assemble and check the mains for straightness and sizing.
The lay-shaft's mid bearing journal looks ok,so,I assume the inserts too are in spec.
The pump has no plugs in the exposed ports,so I would inspect the pump for debris as a precaution.A single grain of sand.
These parts you have gathered have all the right stuff,and the idea of force feeding more air into them is thrilling.
Big Six gun,most suitable for the desert highway.

/

Timecerts were done at the machine shop
Case was fully checked when bored for the new jugs.
Lay shaft was fine. New inserts.
Brand new oil pump.


Thanks everyone for the sympathy on the stitches. As Betty says "It's not a good job until you bleed on it and cuss at it." Well, this is definitely a good job. I was inventing new cuss words when I cut my finger.

And typing is a bitch when you touch type and one finger is inoperative. I actually have to think about where the keys are located.

I have a similar scar,same finger,missed the tendons.
A F-18 radome chassis,billet,5x-cnc,'80s,razorsharp.
I was so pissed I had sliced myself so badly.
Just one of those shop accidents that should have been avoided.
Reminded me to wear the proper safety protection,diligently.

One thing to consider is the amount of twist imparted to the cylinder studs when torquing.
'Clocking'the studs to maintain an untwisted condition at final stretch.

/

I have not updated this thread in a while.

But here is the progress...

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Betty was trying to convince me to paint the valve covers red. I like them in the natural aluminum.

Should I start a poll paint/no paint?

Big no on the red paint. Keep it as much factory looking as possible. Very nice.

Clear them

Paint or Powdercoat the engine tin, unless you want them to return to their natural state.

all the fancy stuff just gets swallowed up in a 914 engine bay anyway.

The engine tin is still a work in progress. I have to mod the 914-6 tin to fit the 964 motor. You can see the left rear setup I did.

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Once I am ready to complete it, it will be bead blasted then powdercoated along with the rest of the tin.

I have to mod the power steering belt housing before I can make the tin for the right rear.

I have to add the holes for the lower spark plug wires in the side tins, and I still have to figure out how to send air to the heat exchangers. It will probably involve holes in the side tin for air feeds from the fan.

Awesome.

You don't need that finger with that Big motor. Zowie

................size matters

Is the end of the cam visible in front of the oil cooler ?
Shouldn't there be a cap there ?

Paint the valve covers black and sand off the ribs. It's your car though, do whatever gives you a thrill.

964/993 motors don't have engine mounted oil coolers

The motor originally had a power steering pump drive there. I intend to fabricate an AC compressor mount for the same location.

They are not cast valve covers. They are billet aluminum, and the ribs are machined into them.

New picts of progress


Clewett 964 Serpentine belt kit

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Rebuilt distributor installed.

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Custom Throttle linkage.

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The throttle linkage uses a stock 914-6 cable and a bell crank assembly from a 964 Turbo. Custom uplink to the throttle body. Hooked it to the cable in the car to test the geometry and the pedal pressure.

Betty accused me of making vroom vroom noises.

I believe Betty. I know I'd be making vroom vroom noises too.

Love that Clewett setup. Should make changing the belt a lot easier. I don't remember, did you already have a cut out in the firewall to facilitate belt changes?

Nope.. I don't believe in cutting holes in something called a "Firewall".

I had a serpentine belt setup on my old engine, until the AC compressor mount cracked the chain housing. They make changing the belt much easier.

Get that thing on the road Clay...even better, to a track! Way to stay after it - make all the vroom, vroom sounds you want, ya earned it!

PS: That thing looks heavy...better put some big springs in the rear.

Tony

I am at work this morning, so I don't have pictures to post.

Took the front 914-6 engine tin and the 911 engine tin and cut them up to make one set that fits the front of the motor. I figured out that I can use the 911 fan and blower stuff to push air into my heat exchangers. Flipped the engine upside down, and temporarily installed the headers. I am going to get some poster board to cutup to make heater box templates. I am going to make the bottom of them bolt on so I can open them up to inspect the internal tubes.


Pictures soon...

Good ideas! Sounds like this is going to be awesome and terrifying.

I'm sure Betty can handle it. (And never, EVER, let me drive it! But you already knew that.)

--DD

Do I spy a Pulsar?

On my engine I'm using 993 cams, I cut that drive off to use a stock cooler. I also modified the cam nose to accept regular 911 cam sprockets. Had to weld them up and grind in a woodruff key slot.
No more funky 993 sprockets that take $1+k worth of tools to do the cam timing.

If you are EVER near my car, I am going to carry a big piece of cardboard to hold up to keep you from even LOOKING at it.

Yep... Good Eye. It is an 87. I bought it from the original owner for $700.00 when his pregnant wife let the timing belt go too long. It was 4 years old at the time. It ate all 16 valves and guides. I put another $700.00 into it in machine work. It ran well over 200K after that. Then the engine blew the head gasket. The motor was the 1.6L DOHC, and parts were no longer available, because it was only made for one year.

So I got creative. Now it has an JDM SR20DET from a 1991 Pulsar GTiR .



The Pulsar GTiRis the Nissan answer to the Subaru WRX, and was never sold in the US. It came with a 2.0L turbo 4 that develops over 240HP driving all 4 wheels.

In my Pulsar, which is much lighter than the GTiR, it uses a Setra SER limited slip 5 speed to drive the front wheels only. It will smoke the front tires in first and second. It is a real sleeper. Looks dead stock from the outside.

The paint is faded and dead, then brakes are WAY too small for the motor, and the AC compressor has a blown seal.

It is the alternate driver if we lose the truck or Betty's 914.

I know... it is a sickness. But I really don't want a cure.


BTW.. it is for sale if you know anyone who wants it.

Here was mine, found 2 years ago. Same deal low miles 74k, but after a bit the trans popped out of 5th. Sold it to the mechanic for what I paid.

Are you sure you can hold the cardboard up high enough to keep me from looking?

(I swear, sometimes it really is too easy!!)



The Pulsar sounds cool! SR20DET seems to be a fabulous motor.

What happened to the BMW?

--DD

Those GTiRs are pretty cool. The AWD version must be a hoot to drive. Not all that much money if you can live with the RHD. Poor man's EVO. The 914 of modernish nissans.

I don't have to hold it up high. I will just knock you down to my height.

The BMW is in the garage. One day I have to finish the the head gasket replacement on it.


After I finish my 914.

Today was "Arts and Crafts" day....

I made this

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This is a rough template made from posterboard to make left heater boxe for my headers. I will be taking this apart to determine the best way to bend the stainless sheet. The right will be slightly different due to the differences in the headers side to side.

The openings for the exhaust tubes will be drilled with 1 34 inch hole saw. The slots in the side will be drilled with the same hole saw, but elongated to let the exhaust pipe out.


The small end will have a 2 1/4 inch tube attached to it to mount the heater box. The big end of the tapered side will have a 2 /14 inch tube with a 90 dfegree bend attached to it to feed air into the end of the heater box. The tube will run parallel to the tapered side, and will come as far forward as the front of the heater box. I will use hoses to attach to the blower feed in the front engine tin. The factory 964 blower tubing will be used on top of the motor to provide air.

Fabricating the heating stuff is slow going. Lots of false steps in the process. It will work out in the long run though.

Did some work on the left heater box.

Transferring the template.

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Layout work

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completed template

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And the heater box test fit on the header.

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This is the prototype, and will be scrapped, for two reasons.

1. I made all the holes too small and they had to be opened up with a grinder. They look terrible

2. I was told this was stainless, but it turns out it is just galvanized steel.

I will build another one out of the galvanized, taking what I learned on this one and refine the design. Then I will make one out of stainless.

Well... this hasn't been updated for a while. If you are wondering where I have been, lots of extra time at work and 3 different minor surgeries, a case of pink eye, and lately prepping Betty's car for the trip to Okteenerfest have been taking my time.

But here's my latest update.

Boxster Transmission adapter is coming along. Here are pictures of the 3-D printed parts.


This is the first pass at the relief for the DME sensor.
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It's too tight in some places, and too much taken away in others.
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Adjustments to take to the place doing the printing.
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Here is the whole thing mounted to the transmission.
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The starter adapter. Transmission has not been relieved completely for the starter.
I am using the gear drive 914 starter, and mounting the ring gear on the front of the pressure plate. A standard starter won't clear the backup light switch on the transmission.
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Inside looking at the starter mount.

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I don't have a picture of the whole thing mounted to the engine. I have to take it off the stand to do that.

I will be bringing the pieces to Okteenerfest so you can see it in person.

Also, here is the cable shifter.

Built from a Toyota Celica shifter (I don't remember who, but someone on here used one and I just borrowed the idea).

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I wanted to keep the hand throttle, and not go cutting up the floorboard. I also wanted it to appear somewhat stock, so I welded on a 901 shift arm to the top of the Celica shifter. I used a tail shifter base, and fitted the Celica shift box to the top. I cut a slot for the arm, and after a little rebending of the left-right shift arm, it all fits in the car without cutting anything.

I still have to make the mount for the cables.


I am bring it to Okteenerfest too if anyone wants to see it.


As for the adapter.. I am willing to have multiple sets made if anyone wants to go to a boxster 6 speed in their car. But it would have to be a group buy. And I have not made the mounts to hook the transmission to the 914 chassis at the rear.

Stay tuned folks... Things are now back to moving along nicely.

Impressive work, Clay. I can't wait to see this thing in person.

Since this was all transmission related, are we to assume that the motor is complete?

I always marvel at the inventiveness of the folks on the forum and you're no exception Clay. Nice work!

Clay , Betty...never got on the topic of your build while we briefly met at Rennsport5 , but you are building something epic here. If you are a fan of brass grommets in your seats; Singer might be jonesing your 914 at the next Rennsport !
Marty

Marty,
I gotta build something that can keep up with your car.

Singer who?

Clay

Hi Clay,

Why did you not just use a Boxster shifter and cables for this car? I had some words with Renegade on cable shifter for my V8 to 930 trans and he was going on the reasons to get a Boxster trans and using the factory shifter and cables. He said lots of trans around for $2500. And if it went out they where cheep and there where lots of them. Cable shift Co. has there own set up for $700.

I sold my Boxster shifter for $50. So they are not that much and cables are going the right way.

Bob B

I have a boxster shifter.
Three reasons:

1. I wanted a stock appearing shifter.
2. I wanted to keep the hand throttle.
3. I have to remove the cable mount on top of the trans to clear the starter. So I decided to remove the lever for the side to side select and run the cable sideways across the top of the trans. That means the lever in the shifter has to be on the other side to get everything to work correctly.

Hard to visualize, I know. But I have not made the cable mount for the trans yet.



The boxster shifter is a big clunky box sitting on top of the tunnel. I hate the look. It doesn't match the period feel of the car.

I am enabling Clays bad ideas in the form of making his parts for this bad idea

One hardened 4140 964 flywheel spacer ready

Did this trans ever get completed. I would love a 6 speed for my -6

... Great now I need one of these too.. hurry up Clay give it a test.