I wanted to make the engine cover removable for better access. I looked at a couple different options and decided on using horizontal pins mounted to the firewall with receivers mounted to the cover.

I made the receivers adjustable in height and alignment. First removed all hinge and torsion bar stuff, then welded plates with 6mm studs at each hinge location. Then I made the receiver parts with elongated slots for adjustment. Inside each part are delrin bushings I made with a female taper to help with pin engagement.

The cover slides onto the pins with ease and uses the stock rear latch to secure the cover.

Here’s a couple detail pics of the parts….

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Pins welded to firewall after beefing up prior hinge location. Receivers mounted to cover showing the adjustment angle needed for alignment (engine cover ribs are not perpendicular to the cover).

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Here it sits on the pins with the rear latch engaged. This is prior to any adjustment of the latch, just a quick test fit.

Nice. I was thinking along those same lines for my catch on my reverse tilt trunk but there was too much angle and distance needed from pin engagement to seating. Do you have to have the trunk open to get the engine lid off?
Either way, I love watching your engineering of all these clever designs. Keep up the awesome work.

Looks like you added a prop for the rear of the tilting roof storage frame, as well as bumpers for the landing pads (on the sail underside)? Nice! Liking the pragmatic approach,

- Tony

Thank you! I angled the pins on the firewall so it will come up as it slides back. I can remove/install without opening the trunk lid. It didn’t take much angle to allow me to clear the trunk lid. I thought this was going to be more of a problem and had already been thinking of pivoting receivers if this didn’t workout, but thankfully I was able to keep it simple.

I retired this year and I’m just having fun with the fab aspects of this project…..it’s nice to finally have time.

Yup, I added a prop at the rear of the roof rack to hold it up for targa removal/install. I wanted to use gas shocks but the geometry just isn’t there, so I went old school and simple. The stainless heim joint at the end of the prop is a spare jetski part I mod’d to adapt to the alum prop rod.

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Super duper awesome. I want to move to your neighborhood and be your shop helper. Such a cool build.

nice job on the engine lid
we did something similar back a few years ago
shown fully in my vintage race car build thread in my signature.

we tried to minimize weight so tried to build it the lightest we could.

Nicely done!

Decided to tackle my steering column today. Since I’m using the complete Subaru wiring harness I wanted to maintain all the stalk controls for wipers, lights, etc.

To support this I had to make a “Porsuaru” steering column. I used the outer portion of the Subaru column and the inner portion of the 914 column and, after determining the correct length, welded them together.

Next was making a Porsuaru steering shaft. Same concept, use the 914 bottom and Subaru top. The Suby shaft is hollow and the 914 solid. Once I determined the exact length I machined the 914 shaft to fit into the Suby shaft to ensue good alignment.

I welded the two shafts together, and for extra insurance, I welded a collar over the joint. The length is a little critical in that the shaft is encapsulated between snap rings at each end(since 914 snap ring is at bottom and Suby is at the top. So now there’s rings at each end).

More….

Test fit……works great.

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Some simple little updates today. Since I’m going with a hydraulic clutch I needed a place for a reservoir. The original bracket for my brake reservoir was a rusty POS, so I made a new stainless bracket. Then I fab’d a bracket for the clutch reservoir and welded them together……a small simple project with good results.

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Also…..The beast got to see the light of day today, so I couldn’t resist a pic. I know the flares will be polarizing for some…….but hey, it’s my project

Been a busy week with life stuff and not much time for the project. I did manage to get a jump start on my shift console though. Cables should be here this week and then I can it finalized.

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Finished welding up the stock center tunnel where I had removed material prior. I “think” I’m now done welding in the body. Also finished the shift structure and added the mounts for it. I added some additional access panels in the tunnel using stock rear access covers.

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Really enjoying the build, great progress. IMHO, the flares look great, really suits the Safari look - and as you point out: your car, your choices!

- Tony

Nice console! The MR2 shift shaft is a little too short IMO so you have to either raise it up in some way or get an extender (which makes the shift throw longer). that should be the perfect height. Love the threaded mount for the base.

I’m not sure why after many hours of fabrication this feels like the biggest accomplishment so far………I got the under carriage covered in bedliner today. It’s so nice to see something head towards completion. I used a 2K urethane bedliner (like raptor liner) to protect the underside.

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I’ve decided to dub this project “Sufari” (updated titled thread). Trying like hell to get this in paint before the hot weather hits.

Don't know how I missed this thread earlier . Great build thread and progressing very quickly.

Finally got some color on its bones! I’m doing paint tint bedliner in the trunks, interior, and engine compartment. Front trunk done.

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And a couple coats of black bedliner for sound deadening. It will get a couple coats of tinted bedliner next.

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Endstate scheme…

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Got a little micro project done yesterday. Welded pass-thru tubes into the mounting holes for the Safari rack on the rear trunk lid. Without these the panel will distort when tightening the mounting bolts. The tubes are welded to the ribs on the bottom and surface at the top. Just another little thing checked off the list in prep for paint.

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bigger tires!!!

The tires pictured are just what came with the wheels when I bought them.

Just got the new tires mounted and I went with the largest I could fit without hacking up the wheel wells. I’ll be running 215/70/15 Yokohama Geolander all terrains. They finish out at about 27” diameter and to go larger would take some saw-zall magic.

looking good! i have a question, why not spray inside the headlight bucket area too while you are sealing it and painting/coating? just wondering why you left that.

Phil

Is this better? I was waiting for supplies to finish it all up.

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Finished the trunks, engine compartment, and interior today. I also did the areas behind the front and rear bumpers. Feeling some progress…..

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One more….

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Got it back on its feet today. Put the front and rear suspension on and set it down on its new tires for the first time. Setup the heim joint tie rod ends and did a course adjustment so I can wheel it around…..good to see it back on its feet!

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I’ve been quiet lately……..just doing body work to get ready for paint, and that’s kinda boring stuff.

Broke away from sanding for a day to erect a paint booth in the “lean-to” off the side of my shop. It’s 20’x12’, with filters at one end and exhaust fan at the other. It’s all sealed in a heavy gauge reinforced plastic.

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This is a great build. Can't wait to see it completed. Did you consider a steel roof for rigidity?

I did consider it, but I love driving with roof off.

Well, it’s gray…..got it primed today, one step closer to paint…..

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Not sure why pic came out sideways……oh well, here’s a different angle. Dang, this one’s sideways too…grrrr!

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awesome!!! looking great! Lots of great protection against the elements, good for another 40 years, right??
what is the final color selection?
one othe rquestion, did you install a bump steer kit? if so what type/brand?

awesome!!! looking great! Lots of great protection against the elements, good for another 40 years, right??
what is the final color selection?
one othe rquestion, did you install a bump steer kit? if so what type/brand?

Final color will be Shoreline Beige. It’s a non-stock color but I think it will work well here. I did a full color change, so it’s “factory like” and not too ratty.

As far as bump steer, I modified my struts with a support arm and am using heim joints instead of tie rod ends for the linkage. This lets me set the height f the tie rods, and hopefully eliminates bump steer issues. Here’s a pic of the setup:


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Got to try out the paint booth yesterday and it worked out great. I shot the underside of the hood, trunk, and engine cover in final paint.

Much Thanks to @mepstein so I had a hood to shoot!

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Looks like sideways pics are my new norm, not sure why, but here goes another…..

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If you hold your phone so that your thumb button is to the right, the pics should be rotated correctly. Andy explained it in a post here somewhere...

Got some more paint work done today, fresh paint looks so nice!

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This weather is killing me……I want to finish my paint…..Grrr! I did get some progress though. I got the hood and doors painted just before our glut of crap weather. I also assembled the custom headlights for the project.

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