I am considering a variation on this engine - probably from a single turbo WRX. I have a Haltech E6K which will have no problem running the engine - I have even downloaded a WRX base map for it. Talking with guys over at NASIOC forums they recommend either the 2.0 or 2.2 turbo engines.

I am leaning more and more towards abandoning Coil-On-Plug and doing the EDIS thing. There is a clear path to getting that to actually work, which is very entising. I did wonder if you could put the two coil on plug coils in parallel and run them wasted spark - is that possible? Or unwise?

The Tomtek controller claims to do coil on plug, but it's not very developed yet. That is another possibility. If i get boards made - is there any other interest in messing with that?

EDIS is looking pretty nice right about now.

Fiid.

What not just get the MAF sensor you need and run it in stock configuration at least until you make sure everything works?

If it has coil on plug stock then it should have all the sensors it needs to make coil on plug work with aftermarket parts too. (?)

Firstly, I don't know which MAF sensor. I could track one down, but this vehicle is rather obscure, so it may be easy or tricky. I have a feeling I need a specific type which may not be available in the US, since there have only been a few Subaru Turbos here to date, and Subaru switched from MAF to MAP before the new ones came out.

Next up, I have the ECU. I have the gred box with about 80 wires hanging out of it. Most of therm are different colors. They are different thicknesses. Some of them are bundled in groups of 3 or so. Others are not. I do actually have a wiring diagram now. It is 66 pages.

The wiring diagram makes this possible, instead of impossible. Having said that, wiring up a tomtek or a megasquirt is a breeze, plus you can dial it into a PC to figure out what the problems are. None of these things are possible with the stock system., Plus I will have different exhausts/intakes, etc, which might freak out the stock computer.

The Haltech is attractive, but not cheap by any means. Not sure if I want to go that way or not yet.

Fiid.

Fid,
I would lean towards getting the stock configuration running as it came from the factory. Leave the cat in place to restrict flow to the turbo. Keep the stock computers for fuel and spark. You know it will work and get you the 275 you expect. Rengineering so many aspects at a time will be tough to tune. MAFs aren't all that special. Talk to your scooby friends and see what they suggest.

You're right about the wastegate and BOV BTW. But, you knew that...

Why is it so hard for people to remove wiring harnesses correctly? That sucks. I feel your pain. It is a shame because stock ECU would be pretty much plug and play.

A friend of mine bought a whole 93 Firebird because he wanted the LT1 AND the computer AND the wiring harness, and it was easier to take them off himself than deal with whoever chopped up the wiring on most of the used engines around.

"I have the gred box with about 80 wires hanging out of it. Most of therm are different colors..."

Ooops I missed that part.
Nevermind... (in a high annoying voice.)

Dan

I actually don't have the cats - or even the flanges for the turbos.

Here is the engine computer as I have it. The wiring harness for the engine looks about the same (i.e - chopped before the plug).

The IMI starter arrived today. It works nicely, and fits in the gap next to the turbo.

Good call Brad!

I am looking at an engine computer called "tomtek" that will handle coil on plug ignition and is also capable of driving stepper motor idle controls (like the subaru has). It will work in conjuction with the megasquirt. The megasquirt also has some auxialliary outputs (like the idle solenoid) that I will be able to use for boost control and turbo sequencing.

You might say I know my ass from a whole in the ground... just suck at shipping.



B

For a nasty street car this is appealing with the single turbo 2.0 liter...
Has any one looked to see how hard using their transmission would be and or if it measures up. Just saw a sportsracer(sakermotorsports.com) using a wrx motor amidships.

This will be a nastry street car too :-).

Today's winnings from Pic-N-Pull include 2 Ford EDIS Modules, a coilpack, and a harmonic balancer with a 36-1 trigger wheel :-).

This should take car of the ignition side of it.

I have ordered another megasquirt to go with it, so I will be doing the Megasquirt-n-Edis project shortly.

More details to follow.

Fiid.

I'm sure it is but I was going for a "simpiler" conversion for the more handicaped fabricators among us, ME.

The single turbo with its wire harness and computer or aftermarket computers , the exhaust doesnt look too bad , water cooled been done, adapter plate been done,
torque doesnt look too bad for the 901, heating and air does'nt even look too bad and the engine and or entire drivetrain looks very reasonable.....Back to the original question, Has anyone looked at the subaru tranny as a fit??? Custom mounts and axles .??? I saw a midengine subaru race car and the layout is very simular to our cars. Advantages to a modern gear box. The whole thing can be purchased for $4k..

My goal is the daily driver with 225 plus with heat/air and could drive anywere...

Pulled the 1.7 engine out today.....

foom

car ass

jackin off

wonder who "chris k" is?

engine removal is a surgical process....

it's a girl!

I like the pallet on casters.
Good idea,

Paul

So - uh- anyone want a 1.7? Make me an offer. Check the stats....

Euro P&Cs (pretty sure - compression is too high for the 72hp motor. Compression is down on one cylinder - not sure why.
Melling high volume oil pump
Lightened flywheel
Tunacan deep sump
High pressure oil piston thing-os installed.
Pertonix electronic ignition
Bosch blue coil.
Starter motor (no tranny - keeping that)
Optional Megasquirt FI. If you want the MS - supply me with a wiring harness and you can take the on on the engine - I need the relay board plugs for my project.
D-jet Brain (optional)
injectors, runners, potentiometer throttle sensor for smart FI (not D-jet)
heat exchangers aren't worth much.

All the fancy stuff is not more than 2 years old and has not done a lot of miles, although some of those miles have been track and AX time.

If you want to exchange stuff - I need:
5 lug conversion - (I want A-calipers for the front)
5 lug wheels (theres a set of 4 lug Mahles here for exchange or someone to buy).

I scored the pallets from work - they orignally had IBM AIX servers on them! lol.

They are very stable and will hold the car up if you want to punish them. I found that out by accident :-)

Would you sell the flywheel seperate???

Paul

If you can hang on a couple of weeks - I would rather shift the whole blob in one go - but if theres no interest in that I will happily part it out.

No hurry on my part. I'm in the collecting parts phase of my rebuild.

Let me know.

Paul

Two flat fours and a microphone.

I did a bunch more work on the wiring last night.

The Megasquirt now has inputs and control for:
* Spark
* Crank position (via EDIS) and Tach (consequently)
* Injectors
* Throttle position
* Coolant Temperature

This means it's seriously close to being runnable :-)

I have a workable strategy for building a pretty sophisticated boost controller - more on that later!

If anyone is interested in getting crankfire (EDIS) going with a T-IV motor - I have a set of plug wires that would probably work for it... I had to by two sets of Ford Escort plug wires so that I would have 4 long wires, so I have a set of shorter ones that would likely be more suited to a T-IV application.

Wowza! Getting some work done man!

Be glad to see some detailed info on how your doing all the time consuming work and electrical.

Keep it going!

Andrew

I test drove a Subaru Legacy GT today (2.5 turbo) - which supposedly puts out slightly less than the engine going in my 914. That thing is a work of art. I managed to get to 80mph by mistake on quite a few backroads around South San Francisco. This thing is going to be a scream.

The latest update on the car is that I have just about finished cutting up the front trunk for the radiator addition.

More pics soon.

fiid, Nice meeting you at the WCC. Nice project. Keep posting progress pics. It will keep you going.

Fiid, Post detailed pics of your radiator install, step by step.

but wait... Dont you need to get the car painted first??

Andrew

I put the engine under the car today. Seems to fit like a glove - although I have kissed goodbye to the idea of getting very much stuff in my rear trunk.

From the top

Heres the front trunk. I am aiming to mount the radiator about where it is. The radiator is from a 1991 VW Golf (IIRC).

Yummy 911 front struts with 5 lug hubs and A calipers. In the background you can see my new toolchest (home despot special... they sold it to me for a discount because the keys were missing. I found the keys at the checkout, zip-tied to the handle with a security tag )

I am in the middle of rebuilding my transmission. This has gotten new synchros on 1, 2, and 3, and new dog teeth on 1 and 2. I think the sliders are okay. I don't really want to spend too much cash on this right now until I figure out weather I need a 915 (argh - wallet pain).

Anyone want the (s)lowly 1.7?? I also have a lightened flywheel and pressure plate for sale, as well as a set of 5 Mahles...?

Alright! Back on task!!!!

I really wanted you to drive yours before me...

Lot of that work looks familiar..

unfortunately....

lol

Made the motor mount bar today.

There are issues with the plates that the bar bolts up to - they arenb't strong enough to hold this thing at the right angle - so the next job is to re-enforce those.

Hey Fiid, this is coming along! I'm really excited to see this on the road. Looking at your picture of rear trunk and engine compartment I got to thinking - have you considered moving the whole drivetrain forward a few inches? It looks like you've got lots of room in front of the engine. I know the SBC conversions typically move the engine/tranny BACK a few inches. You could use the same offset tranny-mount idea to move it all THE RIGHT DIRECTION. This is going to be SO sweet when you're done. Keep at it, you're getting closer all the time!

-Ben M.

Update??? How are things coming along?

Hey! People bumped my thread!!!

Well- the Transmission is back together, and DOESN'T SEEM TO BE LEAKING!!!! I'm excited to be able to shift to 2nd and not grind gears.

I agree with moving the whole drivetrain forward. I might do that in a future upgrade - but for now - I'm trying to keep the stock tail transmission mounts.

There is a problem with the current motor mount setup. Basically - the mounts for the Subaru engine are at the back of the motor, which means that the weight of the engine has a mechanical advantage on the ends of the motor mount bar (and the bolts which hold it up.).

See image

as a result - the engine will bounce in it's mountings. BAD!

So - since I needed to add some rear strut tower reinforcement anyway - I am adding a couple of droplinks from the doubled up strut reinforcement bar down to the motor mount bar - which should take care of this problem once and for all.

I fabricated everything this past weekend and hope to get it into the car this coming weekend. Pictures will be coming then.

My five lug suspension is also mounted up on the front now! Now all I need are some lug nuts :-)

I also spent a bunch of time cleaning up my workshop and trying to get rid of some stuff (BRAD- where are you?).

From a very loosely based observation , it would seem that a cradle would solve your problems.

Andy

Something similar to what the 356 uses. Heck, even grab the "U" hanger from one and start there? <_<

Do you have a picture? I'm not unhappy with what I've fabricated to solve the problem - but it's always possible there's another angle I haven't thought of.

Fiid.

Yay! Got a bit more work done on the car today.

* Cleaned the garage a bit
* Removed the engine & tranny
* Pulled off Brad's dummy tranny
* Put in the Sachs Stage II Pressure plate and clutch disk
* Bolted and torqued the freshened tranny to the engine

Next up I have to clean out the engine bay, clean up some welds and do some painting. I'm thinking that just for simplicity I may bruch paint in there just so I don't have to figure out the spray gun in a confined space.

Are you going for WCC "05"?