I cleaned and installed the throttle linkage. I could not find a clear set of pictures of how it was supposed to look, so here are pictures for later reference. I think the engine is ready for installation into the engine bay. Perhaps this weekend. My goal was to have the car down and running by this summer. That ain't gonna happen. Maybe I can get the engine in by June 1st.
Bee Jay

The engine is in the car!
There are two 914-6 oil filters, so John let me take two home to figure it out. The Mahle OC54 Oil filter went in just fine with the heater motor brakcets there.
Now that the engine is in the car, the plumbing of oil and gas lines, electrical connections, and about a million other things can start now.
Bee Jay

Woohoo, congrats! When is fire-up day?

Looking good Is your oil tank an OEM or aftermarket ? My DW Design tank it was suggested to use the OC61 which fits fine. Is the thread size different between the OC54 vs. OC61 ? Wait until you fire her up for the first time !! Keep us posted.

Is there engine tin on this motor? Trying to see how it fits with the rubber or if rubber is actually used on conversions. Looks great!

I followed Wayne Dempsey's advice and installed the engine with no front or side tin (fiberglass) installed. The engine went in much easier than my last attemp with tin installed, and you need the access to the front engine mounts. I'll work on getting the engine tin in place today.
Bee Jay

Aftermarket Velious tank. I bought it off of the internet and had no clue. I assumed that all 914-6 oil filters were the same. Yes, the OC 61 would not screw on because the fitting on the filter was way too small. I think the Capt'n said the OC 54 is the "late" size.
Bee Jay

Looking good Bee Jay...I should be right behind you with my conversion...really trying to get mine running before PCA Parade this summer...Keep up the great work!

Not sure. I was thinking about it last night instead of sleeping. I need a few things.
1. Time
2. Money
3. Knowledge and expertise. Thanks to John Larson, Wayne Dempsey, Tom Gould, Perry Keihl, and you guys here for the patience and advice along the way.

A few other things I need:
914-6 Throttle cable and trans bellcrank
A straight 914-6 shifter bar
A 911 muffler
A 911 tach
911 Spark plug wires
911 Sparkplugs
Webber air cleaner hats or air filters or even 914-6 air cleaner.
Time and money.
And a little good luck, my friend swore that this engine was running when he pulled it, but that was over 10 years ago, and I have no idea where he is now. No complaints though, I spent less on the engine than I did on the carbs, manifolds and linkage. I had planned on spending $6500 rebuilding it anyway, untill smarter heads convinced me to just clean it up and see if it ran. Rebuilding is no longer an option. I guess it really is cheaper to buy a running conversion, but you miss out on all of this fun. I've learned a lot too, so I'm a wiser man.
Bee Jay

Thanks, the Rennsport is on the West Coast this year in October. It would be nice to drive a Porsche 914-6 up to it. We shall see. I'm surprised at how getting the engine mounted in the car is a motivating milestone.
Bee Jay

If you have the original shiftbar, you can also just cut out the 'bent' part and replace it with a straight section of tubing to make a 914-6 bar. Obviously, you need to keep the length the same and be sure to keep the end pieces aligned corrctly, but it's not hard.

Looking around eBay, Samba, or 911 sites should easily find the other parts you're looking for.

BTW, I was told (but don't know from personal experience) that the 914-6 stock air cleaner assembly is not as tall as a 911 one, so check before buying one. The 'rainhat' style air cleaners work well and sound great on a -6.

As you've found out, it is much less money to buy a running conversion, but it's infinitely more fun to do your own, and the experience you gain is worth a lot.

Enjoy your project in good health!

BTW, my wife and I are flying out to attend the Rennsport Reunion in October, would love to see the project there! The riunion should be a good inspiration for you to get-er-dun!

Looks nice BJ! I just got my Webers back today, fully rebuilt and no missing parts. Need to pull the 911 into the garage and start tearing off the CIS.

I don't know of any place to get PMO manifolds cheaper. But I talked to a guy who knows Weber/PMOs well and he said it's fine with Weber manifolds.

Why are you changing the shift bar? I thought the original will work fine?

Also, some say the trans bellcrank for the throttle isn't necessary. Might want to test it without the cable to see if it's practical.

And which air cleaners are you planning on using? I have some K&N with some missing parts, and see a couple posts that they are not good to use.

I bet a few of you had a good laugh at me last night. "Ha, he thinks he's gonna install the front engine tin with the engine locked and loaded into place"
Well, that's what I thought. I could not do it. Wasn't gonna happen. No way, no how. Soooooo... I'll just loosen the tranny motor mount bolts a little and undo the front motor mounts and lower the front of the engine on my jack untill I can slip the front engine tin into place. Well,.....if you rotate the engine too much, the rear tranny mount bolts slip right out of the transmission bolt holes. Why are they open to the front like that? So I ended up with the engine back in my lap and out of the car. Installing yesterday went just too smoothly. The engine is half on my jack and half on the ground and all my friends I call are busy. With my lovey wifes help and some clever jack work, I got the engine back on the engine dolly and the engine back in the car, but this time with the front engine tin in place. Another hint, things go much better if you remove your rear wheels while installing, deinstalling the engine. I hope whoever is doing a six install in the future for the very first time, is paying attention.
Hint 1: pre position the front engine tin before installing the engine.
Hint 2: Remove the rear wheels to make it easier to see and reach the engine as you lower the car to it.
Bee Jay

Bee Jay

Bee Jay, what mount are you using? I've heard you cannot install that tin before and that you have to cut hte front tin into two pieces and install it after with a Rich Johnson mount. I'm sizing my install up and can use any advice available.

Kev

Nope, you can't install it before, you need access to the engine mounts while installing. You can just lay the front tin up on the shelf just before you lower the car or raise the engine. I should have taken pictures but I was in no happy snaps mood. It's a good thing the world didn't end yesterday as predicted because I lost my religion a couple of times.
Here is a picture of the motor mount.

Bee Jay



If you look closely at this picture, you can see the left front motor mount and how easily you can access it with the engine tin not installed. This picture is from Friday, when I didn't even have the front engine tin sitting on the front engine bay shelf.


Here is a picture of the tranny mount. If you tilt the engine too much, the bolt will slip right out of the front, which would be obvious to the average dumbass, but I excell in that category.

Doood , you missing that big cup type washer that goes on top of the trans ear , it helps to prevent slippage off of boltus.
Looking great , keep at it .

Jack

I've never tried to install the engine without the tins, interesting. It takes a left handed-ambidextrious midget to get those engine bolts in place, but I was able to do it. (no insult intended for "little people")

I make conversion shift rods Beej, shoot me a email or PM. The stock one won't work. All I need is about 6" off the front (where the coupling is) and about 10" of the rear part. Just make sure the rear part of the shift rod is smooth and not pitted, otherwise it will chew up the bushing.

Lookin good!!

THE ENGINE TIN IS IN! I know exactly what you are saying, "Big Whoop".
Well Perry said it best, to install the front and side tin with the engine installed requires an ambidextrious, powerful, little person. It's about all I got accomplished today other than work on the motor and trans mounts. I think if you can do it, install the engine with the tin installed. Remove the trailing arm bolts if you have to. JMHO.

Thanks Perry. Email coming your way.
Bee Jay

Thanks Jack. Fixed it, I think.


Also, while I was in there, I did something about something that was bugging me. I don't understand the engineering on the motor and trans mounts, but there is this huge giant thick bolt that holds the engine to the motor mount, but two skinny, puny, seemingly inadequate bolts that hold the motor mount to the car. So I drilled the motor mount holes out a little, and installed larger bolts.

This was a really rough Memorial Day weekend for the 914-6 conversion project. I took Friday off and spent 3 1/2 hours trying to get the balls back into the left CV joint. No matter how much I cussed and fussed they would not go back in. Same thing for over an hour Saturday morning. I asked Gill to come over and help me install them on Memorial Day. He slept in, so I decided that I would get them in before he came over. NO JOY! Gosh darn it. Gill shows up, takes a look, removes the balls, pulls the boot back, and puts the balls into the CV joint. 5 minutes max. I hate when he does that. Happy that my CV joint was back together, but pissed that I couldn't do it. We spent the rest of the hour designing a bell crank less six throttle linkage. I hope Terry Cable will build me a 914-6 throttle cable 17 inches longer than the 914-4 cable. After Gill left, I started on other things. I bolted up the axles to the tranny, and I installed the headers. BIG PROBLEM. The oil cooler outlet is way too close to one of the header pipes. So close, I can't tighten the -12 line. DAMN. The modified 90 degree bend drops too far from the cooler. Maybe John Larson can have it modified again so that the 90 degree attchement is closer to the cooler. I think there is room to move it at least 3/4" closer. At least one good thing, I had the oil cooler out in about 15 minutes. Just remove some tin and unbolt. When I had a leak in the 2.0 four engine cooler, I spent all day getting the oil cooler out. Maybe the fix won't take long.
Bee Jay

WOW! I called Terry Cables Tuesday morning to order a stock 914 clutch cable and a throttle cable 17" longer than stock with a 914-6 threaded end. Both were delivered Thursday evening. The throttle cabel was exactly what I ordered. Granted they are right here in Cali, but they must have made the custom cable the day I called and shipped that night. What a pleasant surprise.
Bee Jay

If I had only known you can't install the motor with the front tin on using that mount, I wouldn't have done it ........................

And what's this "Cali" s*#&!? You get those cables from Colombia?

The Cap'n, Krusty mode on. Call my state "Calif.", CA, or "California", but don't call it "Cali". It just ain't right.

Good morning Captain John, how are you this fine Kalifornia day? Have some coffee and a cinamin roll. We don't want to get you irritated and bring Cap'n Crusty out. It's like the Hulk, "you wouldn't like me when I'm angry".

I have a lift, a decent set of tools, and my lovely wife Sylvia helping me, but I can never do what you can do with a 914 with a patch over one eye, a hand tied behind your back, and no lift. That is why you are the Cap'n.
Can your guy modify my oil cooler?
Bee Jay

Mark? Is that you?

That's a "yes" on the oil cooler. It's being picked up today, sometime after the verdammt Elks get their horse poopin' arses off my street and get down to some serious goat ropin'. Rodeo weekend.

The Cap'n

Guess i did it wrong too by mounting the tin on the engine first.

I'll remember to leave it off next time.

Yup.

This was a much better weekend for the 914 conversion. I was in LA last week so I stopped by Earl's Plumbing Store #1 in Lawndale and picked up a -12 to -12 connector with a drain plug in it. Then on Thursday the new clutch cable and 17" longer throttle cabel showed up. Then on Saturday, the shifter rod that Perry Kiehl modded for me showed up. It rained Saturday, so I wrenched Sunday, today. First I replaced the clutch cable and installed the new throttle cable and built an aluminum bracket. This is temporary because I beleive Gill will build something more exotic. But in the mean time, the throttle works pretty good.
Then I installed the shifter rod. Perry does amazing work, the rod looks better than new with paint and polishing, and it fit perfectly. I'm extremely pleased with everything he has done for me on this conversion.
Doesn't seem like much progress, but it took most of my afternoon. I also started doing some electrical connections, the MSD box in particular.
The oil cooler is off getting re-modded and the light at the end of the tunnel may not be another train. I need a few things.
1. A 2.0 liter muffler hanger
2. Some spark plug wires
2. Dizzy cap, rotor, and spark plugs.
and 3. a 911 tach, some prayers and a little luck.
Bee Jay

Are you getting full throttle with your cable set up like that?

I believe so, I will have someone operate the pedal while I look under the hood tonight.
Bee Jay

For optimal rotation, the front and back of the shift rod should be in the same plane. Otherwise, you'll get binding on the rod during rotational twist.

A stock 914-4 isn't that way, the aft end of the stock shift rod has a distinct angle, that is not on the same plane as the front, it angles toward the centerline of the car. The jig I use to make these is also used to check a stock 914-4 shift bar.

Perry's bar fits perfect and shifts perfect, well, as perfect as a 901 side shift can. Porsche 914 owners should never drive Mazda Miatas. That shift linkeage is perfect.
Bee Jay

I have a spare 2L muffler bracket that's yours for the asking if you are either back in LA soon or want to toss me a few bucks (and your address) for postage.

Thanks Cambellcj. I'm asking. My adress is:
Bernard E. Jones
3123 Manley Drive
Lompoc, CA. 93436
I'll gladly pay for shipping. Paypal? Cash?
Bee Jay
PS. I love your car.

Yep, I'm getting full throttle.
While testing for full throttle I saw the bracket flex a little, so I beefed it up with this brace.



Bee Jay

I got the oil cooler back from Captain Krusty yesterday. I now have at least 1/2" space between the oil cooler and the header. It's been a few weeks, but now I can get back to work. I put the oil cooler and engine back tonight. Then I ran the oil lines from the cooler and from the engine to the oil tank.
Bee Jay

I got a 2.0 liter muffler hanger from Campbellcj and an old muffler from Gill Paszek. Tonight I mounted the headers, muffler hanger, and muffler. I have an exhaust sytem. I think I'm done down here. I'm headed top side to finish plumbing the fuel lines and ignition.
I need a set of spark plug wires.
Bee Jay

Looking really good Bee Jay. What kind of plug wires are you leaning towards?

Bee Jay,

I just bought a new set of Magnecor wires for my conversion, so if you want you can have my old set of stock metal-shielded wires that came off my 1978 3.0 engine. They are in nice shape - I just wanted to spend some more money and make it pretty.

Figure $10.00 for shipping.

My paypal is robrose426@att.net

I saw your address in an earlier post - I'm assuming that is where you want them sent?

Rob

I'm using Clewett ignition wires on both of my 3.0 engines I like them. I bought both from Pelican Parts. Your project is looking good keep the updates coming.

Thanks Rob. You've got money. I put a little extra in so you can take the Mrs. out for a $5 footlong. This forum rocks.
Bee Jay

Once this engine fires, or should I say if, I'll eventually get some pretty red spark plug wires, mabye a polished stainless muffler, some fancy steel braided fuel lines, and more. Right now I just want to get it started and maybe drive it around the block. I don't have an engine stand or dyno, so the car is the engine stand. I've owned this car for 15 years and I guess I'll never be finished with it. Thanks for all the nice words.
Bee Jay

You're quite welcome. Your project has been an inspiration to my own conversion project. I'm probably about 6 months behind you unless I get a sudden burst of inspiration at some point soon.

The wires were shipped out priority mail today. You should have them tomorrow or Monday. I'm expecting a video to be posted of the startup

Rob

Got em Rob. Thanks a bunch. They are in great shape. I cleaned them up just a little and put them in the car. I also hooked up the relay board and ran the battery cables. I powered the car up for a moment, turned on the headlights and honked the horn. Fuel lines to the carbs are next.
Bee Jay

Excellent! I'm glad they are being put to good use.

I'll be watching your thread for the start-up video.

Now it's time to get mine moving forward...

Add some large stainless steel clamps to that muffler so all the weight isn't hanging off the two bolts on the muffler bracket. You'll possibly tear out the welds on the inlet pipes.