OK, Thanks. That makes sense. What do the clamps wrap around other than the muffler? The heat shield? Got any pictures?
Thanks again. This forum rocks.
Bee Jay

I don't have a picture but hopefully I can explain. Look at the back of your muffler the side facing the engine/muffler bracket. Take a tape measure and measure the distance from the muffler can to the muffler bracket. Bend up some metal so you can weld it to the muffler bracket to make up the gap. Basically a short " U " if that makes sense. On the muffler side of this bracket I just took some fiberglass insulation and glued it with spray adhesive. It only has to hold until the muffler is in place. Now you have something for the clamps to hold onto. Hope this makes sense.

I don't think the factory sixes, or most conversions for that matter, use 911-style band clamps but there is a lot of stress on the muffler inlet pipes when supporting the entire weight of the muffler.

My M&K muffler, around 1/2 the weight of a stock banana, ripped at those welds and had to be repaired and braced. Having a better support possibly would have prevented that. I believe Ben has started bracing them now in his later versions (I have an early 911R 2in/2out version.)

Nowadays I run megaphones and the regular bracket seems totally adequate to support those.

Great tips! Glad Beejay is doing this thread and is ahead of me, I get to see everything I'm going to do before I do it!

Just put my carbs on this evening with the 3.0L engine still in the 911. Gotta put the fan back on, get some fuel hose, and it'll be about ready to fire up! Your carb pics were of great help.

It was a very nice 4th of July weekend. The weather was great, I had three days off, and Sylvia was out of town. So I spent most of the weekend wrenching, not solely on the Porsche, but mostly.
I filled the tranny with 2.5 quarts of synthetic gear oil. I adel clamped the oil lines to make sure they never wandered close to the header pipes. I installed a new fuel filter and ran hose to a pressure gauge and to the Webbers. I turned the key on and the fuel pump is working perfectly. I ran a 1" vent hose from the oil tank to the outlet on top of the engine. I turned the key on and checked out all of the electricals and the gauges. I have to find the oil pressure wire in the dash, but in the mean time I can use the wire I used for the four. I installed the distributor after removing the vacuum can to improve acess in the engine compartment. I used safety wire to lock down the vacuum advance plate. The spark plug wires are installed and plugged into the dizzy.
I think I'mn getting close. I need to find a pair of air cleaners and I haven't been to sucessful at shopping for those and I need a 911 tach. I need to fill the Velois tank with oil. How much does it hold? Anyone. I have to buy six spark plugs. What works good in a carbed 3.0 SC engine. Maybe instead of a 911 tach, I can get one of these:
http://www.technoversions.com/TachMatchHome.html


It's weird. Instead of getting excited, I'm really worried. I decided, with some good advice, not to rebuild this engine. Just stick it in and see if it runs. What if it doesn't? What if it does and rattles and smokes like Joe Camel. What if the pressure fed tensioners don't tension. Is this MSD wired right? I'm a nervous wreck. Maybe it wall start and everything will be fine.
I guess If I don't find air cleaners or a tach soon, I could crank it up without. Maybe this weekend. Drinks are on me if it starts. If all goes well, I can drive it up to Rennsport reunion in October.
Bee Jay

Bee Jay,
I always get nervous before starting and engine that I've done a lot of work on. You aways wonder if you missed something or in your case there is a problem you didn't know about. All you can to is dot the "I's" and cross the "T's" as best you can and keep moving forward.
I always crank the engine over the first time without the plugs in it until I get oil pressure. So after you get oil in it (probably 8 qts to start with) and an oil pressure gauge wired in, crank it over with the no power to the ignition system.

Good luck
Jim

Don't worry about those thing that are out of your control. It's a Porsche and it will start and run like a champ (once you get the Webers set up).

Out of curiosity, why did you choose to buck the conventional wisdom regarding your gear oil choice. Everything I have read to date seems to say Swepco 201 is the hot ticket for the 901 gear box. I've heard of trannys chewing up their insides if you use Red Line or other synthetics. Which did you end up using?

I didn't know conventional wisdom was to use Swepco. I think I put Castorl 75w90 synthetic. I'll have to check when I get home.
Bee Jay

Hi Bee Jay -
What fuel pump and pressure regulator did you go with? Did you dead head the fuel flow at the carbs or are you running a return line back to the tank?

Thankfully I did my Weber conversion while the engine is still in running order in the 911. A little peace of mind that when I put the /6 into the 914 - that'll be one less thing to diagnose if it doesn't start!

Did you get your dizzy recurved? I'm trying to decide if I wanted to get mine re-curved or a programmable ignition (MSD 6AL2) but Barry in Detroit said the programmable won't work. But I've read otherwise.

"Conventional wisdom" in this case consists of believing too much of what you read in "enthusiast" magazines and forums like this one, without considering the qualifications and agenda of the person making the statement. Regular gear oil is cheaper than "SWEPCO 201" or synthetics, and works just fine in our gearboxes, providing you use GL5 ONLY. I've never heard of properly used synthetic gear oils "chewing up" the insides of gearboxes, and I've been rebuilding Porsche trannies since 1971. If they meed the specs, they'll do the job, albeit at a price far higher than conventional gear oils.

I read Bee Jay's answer to this question, and I caution him to look at the Castrol container. If it doesn't say GL5, it's the WRONG gear oil. No GL4-GL5, no one-size-fits-all, no MoSO2 additives, just "GL5".

The Cap'n

I agree with the Cap'n. It's been mentioned elsewhere, and I have noticed, that "conventional GL-5 gear oil" doesn't leak past tranny seals whereas synthetic oils do. Don't waste your money.

Here's Syntec http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongene...ntentId=7036193

Here's regular Hypoy C http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongene...ntentId=7036192

Both are listed as GL-5 for 75W-90

Hey, that's the stuff I put in!!!!. I guess I'm alright. Geez, this Porsche tranny is more picky than my Ferrari tranny. Put the wrong stuff in there and you've got real problems.
Thanks guys for not letting me mess up.

Bee Jay

IT STARTED!!!!
Saturday I filled the oil tank with 8 quarts of Shell 10W30. Then I cranked for 60 seconds. The starter works good. For 15 seconds, nothing, then the oil light went off, then the oil pressure gauge jumped up to 20. OK, good starter, good oil pump. This morning, Sunday, I hooked up the coil and one NGK BPR6ES spark plug to the #1 spark plug wire. I cranked again, and the spark plug sparked. Then I put the six plugs in gapped at .040. Then I plugged the fuel pump in and turned the key on, 8 psi. That is strange, because the same fuel pump did 4psi with the four cylinder engine and a pair of Dellorto carbs. Soon, the carbs were pumping when gave it some throtle and they weren't leaking. OK, oil pressure, spark, fuel pressure. At 3:40 pm, I cranked for about 30 seconds, nothing. I pumped the carbs a few times and cranked some more. The engine was trying but not quite starting. Then on the next crank it started. Praise God and Thank you Jesus! Wohoo. I kept it reved for about a minute and then let off the throttle, the engine was idling. I have no idea what it was idling at, the tach was not working, but it was idling. The oil pressure was pegged and I could not tell if the oil temp gauge was working because it was pegged cold. I let it run for 15 minutes and the oil pressure started coming down a little. That was as long as I wanted to go with no Tach, no oil temp, and I wasn't sure how close the timing was. I have a major oil leak from somewhere in the front of the engine, and a few minor leaks in other places. I hope nothing major, but the major leak might be behing the motor mount. The fuel pressure is too high, so I will have to address that. The engine smoked like a chimney at first, but now it only smokes when I give it gas. I hope that doesn't continue but I know I bought a high mileage engine. And I still need air cleaners and a tach. But tonight I am happy the engine started. I'll set the timing and adjust the carbs this week. Film at 11.
Bee Jay

Hey congrats BeeJay, that's awesome!

You can find good "T" or "E" tachs on the Pelican or Early 911S boards all the time; they're way cheaper than "S" tachs and you can always have them rebuilt with a different redline mark if you wish. Bummer on the timing - I had a spare tach for years but just sold it recently.

Awesome BeeJay! BTW, thanks for this thread and all the detail and pictures... it is really helping me with my conversion.

We need another smiley that says, "THIS THREAD IS WORTHLESS WITHOUT VIDEO!"

Here is the video, I hope. Nothing special. Engine idleing.

Awesome! That made my morning complete.

Awesome to hear! Get that thing done for Rennsport Reunion! I believe I read earlier in your thread that you are going?

Very nice!

I see you put the 911 oil temp/pressure gauge where the fuel gauge use to go, did it fit right in or did it require any modification to the dash plate?

Sliped right in. I didn't use factory wiring, so now I have to go figure our where the factory wires are.
Bee Jay

Thanks Qarl. Not going anywhere if I don't resolve the oil leaks.
Bee Jay

10w30? Your engine takes 20w50, not 10w30. It's way too thin, and will cause a substantial oil pressure drop at higher ambient temperatures.

I don't see "GL5" printed anywhere on that Castrol bottle. Maybe it's on the other side? Picture, please? As for the Porsche tranny being more picky that the one in your Ferrari, I doubt it. Italian carmakers are also very specific in the lubricants they use. Yours takes GL5, as well. IIRC, Ferraris of the vintage yours is use Porsche style synchros.

The Cap'n

Got it. 20w50. I'll change the oil as soon as I get the carbs synched, the timing set, and the major oil leak solved. I always listen to the Cap'n.
The Castorl bottle said GL5 on the back. I'll take a picture or bring the empty bottle by. That is why I bought the Castrol synthetic, it's recommended in the Ferrari.
How are you Cap'n Krusty? Have a nice day. See you soon.
Bee Jay

BeeJay - re. the oil - also note that 8 quarts might be too little depending on your auxiliary oil cooler (if any) and lines. Check carefully before you run the engine. My car takes around 11-12 qts...

I started the car up again last night and attempted to tune up a little. The timing was way off at 60+ degrees. It is amazing how the engines will run with so much timing. I had to remove the dizzy and rotate it one tooth to get close. I now have it at 5 degrees initial, and it comes up to about 20 degrees total when I rev it. I will have to get a recurved dizzy, but man are those things expensive. I also tried to balance the carbs a little. I will need to work at this some more. But it seems that some cylinders are not contributing as much as others. Each header pipe gets hot, so they are all firing and combusting I hope. The engine runs at actually too high idle with the passenger side carbs butterfly shut. Like I said, I'll need to work on the carbs a little.
I only got one response from my wtb thread on Pelican Parts for air cleaners. I might have to break down and buy new air cleaners. It's only money and hey, it is a Porsche. Like the Cap'n said, "stop your whining".
The fan belt is way too loose now and making bad noises and there is a serious oil leak up front, so I think the engine will have to come out to adress both. I was hoping I would not have to do that, but hey, no whining. I'm still looking for a tach, so I'm hoping to find out what I'm actually idling at. I also need to chase down the oil temp wire in my gauges and in the engine compartment. I'll take the car off of the lift and put it away for now. At least I won't have to push it into the garage, I can drive it in. Don't worry Gill, I wont drive it down the block with no registration, no tachometer, no air cleaner, a bad oil leak, and no oil temp...........ok, maybe down the block and back.
Bee Jay

I got quoted for $600 for a rebuild and recurve on my '81 dizzy from Barry in Detroit. Pricey, but it'll last forever.

What was the response for your air-cleaners?

Bee Jay I have some billet aluminum K&N air filter tops/bases with filters if you're interested. PM me for details if interested.

Jerry Woods just did a complete rebuild and recurve of my '79 SC distributor for $475. Same setup as yours, I believe. Weber 40's and stock cam.

Nice guy to deal with also.

You can also get the K&N water shield or flat top air filters from PMO in the $125-150 ballpark as I recall. Richard is very helpful for carb issues or parts in general.

The fan belt can be done with the engine in, BTDT earlier this year, but it's no fun.

Heck yes I'm interested. PM sent. Or you can email me at:
beejay.jones@gmail.com
Thanks
Bee Jay

They are running $200 now.



If for some reason he doesn't buy, I might be interested too. Right now I have 2 aluminum tops and just 1 bottom and no filters. I need 1 more bottom.

$200 for a new set of K&N watershield air cleaners? Where? PMO? Maybe that is the way for me to go. Used filter sets are running $150.
Bee Jay

Yup, $200 per the web site. I stand corrected (hey, I bought mine quite a few years ago.)

http://www.pmocarb.com/parts.htm

As he linked, PMO. You can buy them at youroil.net.

Where are you finding used for $150? I haven't really found anything new/used for Weber 3 bbl filters aside from Pelican and PMO.

I found this on the Summit web site and thought I had made a major find.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KNN-56-1770-2/
http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=56-1770-2

Then I called Summit to order, but first I'd like to make sure that the Engine Kit for $135 included a pair or set of air cleaners. The tech at Summit said "good question". He's sure it includes a pair but calls K&N to confirm. After being on hold for a long time he comes back and says that K&N told him that the price is each and I would need 2 for my 911. So that would be $270 for the pair. The PMO watershield is looking better and better at $200
Bee Jay

BeeJay, I got those type of flat tops from PMO. They aren't on the web site as I recall, but available by request. Interesting Richard told me the flat tops are quieter than the watershields. At least I think that's what he said - I didn't notice on my LOUD car. They are lighter too.

My 914-4 got left out one night and it rained. When I went to crank it the engine hydro locked. I had to pull the plugs and crank it till the water was cleared before I could start it. I think for that reason alone I should go with watershields. Here is a picture I promised the Cap'n. The back side of my trans oil bottle.

Interesting, I'll have to get in contact with him. Here's the mess I have. 1 of each style (A and C) and old K&N filters that fit neither. Grrr. Trying to figure out if new K&N filters will fit them or not.

Click to view attachment

THANK YOU! I've been trying to find these filters on their website with NO LUCK. By dimensions or by car. Nothing.

Ooops, delete this post.

Today I drove over to Santa Maria for the GPR event and to John Larson's (the Cap'n) place in search of a tachometer and maybe some air filters. I didn't find either, but John had this laying around.


John says it's a 911 Magnaflow muffler that is for sale by the owner, but take it home, see if it will fit. I had to remove the heat shield under the trunk, but I got it in.



I got the oil temp gauge to work. I can't wait to get a chance to drive this thing. Soon I hope. I know, this post is useless without video. So I took a couple.
Bee Jay

The smoke goes away after it's warmed up, and I still have some oil leaks to address, but it's comming along nicely.
Here is another video of the engine running. I'll bleed the brakes today and drive up the street to knock off some rotor rust. Yea, that's it, I need to knock off some rotor rust.

Cool. It sounds nice. I think it sounds better than the previous muffler you were running...

Leave the 2.0 badge on back

No heat shield is good if you want to keep pizzas warm for delivery!

A customer with 6 conversion that I did several years ago wanted to remove the heat shield, so we put some Thermo-Tec heat sheild self adhesive mat on the underside of the trunk floor.

I started the car for the first time with my wife home. She came out on the balconey and says, "that sounds cool and powerful, it doesn't sound like a VW anymore".

Now that's one of the reasons I'm doing the six conversion. The sound.
Bee Jay

Those don't come with rain hats, and they don't come with the breather kit. Trust me, you want (and need) both.

The Cap'n

Sorry for the hijack, but where do the other ends of the breathers go to from the rain hats? For some reason I thought the only breather was from the crankcase to the oil filler. I this used instead of the stock setup?

No there's a spigot on the oil tank for the intake breather.

Case to tank, filler neck to the air filter. Both are huge.

The Cap'n