That touches a sore spot.
Believe it or not, per SCCA XP rules building a duct from the radiator to the vents/louvers is ILLEGAL! The result will be some trailer park engineering in an attempt to get the hot air out & away from the gas tank......

Eek.

Personally I dont think that it will be enough heat (for autox) to cause any problems with the gas tank. But diverted air and keeping the engine cool enough is my concern. You could always open up the fenderwells (Unless thats against the rules as well). That combination would certainly keep the radiator cool, and maybe add in brake cooling (500+ deg brakes vs 150 deg air)

Check this out! Its still being developed but when they figure out all the ECU mapping watch out! EMod Lotus Europa with 20B triple rotor turbo. Makes 440 WHP! It amounts to little more than a tubeframe car with fiberglass shell. inboard brakes, Penske dampers, fat Avon slicks.

Yea, is that Jesus car? Looks pretty fast...glad it is in Emod.

-Britain

No Jesus' car is in the background and is almost equally as fast.

Wow, there are 2 Europa's down there...nice!

-Britain

I haven't been posting progress picture as often, but I can promise you I have been working hard. I had to move my dyno time out a week due to a delay in the arrival of the custom flywheel, but now I am back on track.

All the car wiring is completed. Pictures of wiring is not that exciting, but here is the ECU and rear fuse panel wired up.



This is the custom flywheel that I commissioned WEVO to make. I had a concern about the conversion flywheels out there as they are welded together, about 32lbs with the pressure plate assembly, and intended for a 6200rpm USDM motor. This is an 8500 rpm engine and I wanted a little bit lighter rotating mass....therefore I went this route.

The flywheel is actually a three-piece design. This the flywheel as it arrived.



This is the back mounting flange of the flywheel. The large step is required to clear the adapter plate. This is where the conversion flywheels are welded.



Ring gear installed.



Flywheel mounted on the engine and the pilot bearing plate fitted.



Tilton pressure plate installed.



As I mentioned when installing the pedal assembly, I decided to go with a hydraulic throw-out bearing. Here is the Tilton Hydraulic throw-out bearing assembly fit in the 901 transmission. This is a completely custom set-up with custom parts. It is actually a SAAB bearing.



And finally, the transmission reinstalled with the assistance of my wife. VSS sensor wired up and hydraulic lines routed.



I actually filled the engine with oil/water last night and cranked it over. I got it to start for about 5secs before it would stumble. I have some ideas on things to check, but the good news is that is started. It was about 11:30 last night when I was cranking it and decided that I didn't want to push it with the neighbors, I will try again this evening.

-Britain

Yeah Emod is actually a viable class here this year. AAS event this year in July should be a great shootout between these Lotus cars and the V8 and turbo Rotory powered Austin Healys. The AAS memorial event attracts very fast cars. I'm going for sure this year. I think California will have 4 or 5 e mod cars that are cable of winning nationals this year.

Cant wait to see your car run! Looks great from the pictures. I hear you on the crazy SCCA rules. I despise SCCA rules and cant understand some of the people involved in the process. Some of the stuff makes no sense. Especially when talking venting etc. I couldn't touch any chassis metal from what I read. And when I asked for rulings on my center radiator the best I ever got was something like. "well that is probably OK" Never get a commitment.

Now I'm trying to get Street Prepared classing for the 370Z it is a joke. Takes weeks to months. One might expect that a moderate volume sports car that has been on the market for almost 3 years might have been classified! The politics behind car classing are amazing to me. I have to run in same class as professionally prepared Z06's and GT2's in a car that makes 316 WHP and weighs 3300 lbs. Yet EVO that makes 450 WHP can hang in BSP and dominate the class. I love UFO. I called them compared car to other BSP cars and they agreed and allowed BSP classing in one day. Gotta love effectiveness of one person in charge!

Here is my new ride.

Yea, I have several letters in for SEB clarification. Depending on my schedule, I might be able to make a California AAS event....we shall see.

-Britain

IT'S ALIVE!!!!

First start of my Subaru engine conversion. Still a couple of things to sort out, but I am 99% of the way there. Dyno time in less than a week.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2E0RPBTWZaQ


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2E0RPBTWZaQ

sounds good Brit

any leaks or such?

Yea, the turbo drain return line is leaking...I will address that tomorrow. Other than that, it is all good.

-Britain

Congratulations! you've been working hard for it!!

Nice.

Man, we have to nominate you for mechanical genius/ race car builder of the year!

I can't imagine how exciting it must have been to turn that puppy over the first time after all that work. Sounds wonderful.

Looking forward to seeing you driving in Medford.

Who is your secret low cost vendor for all those hose ends?

I quit counting all the ones you've installed on your car.

Awesome! Can't wait to see it in Medford. I embedded your video for you.

Hey Randal, I got all the hose ends and startlite hoses from www.aeroquip.cc. Their prices for the startlite hoses are cheaper than the normal stainless hose at Summit. I wish I had found them a bit earlier in the build, but I got most of the stuff there.

On starting the engine...I actually tried the night before but it would only start for about 2secs and die. Talking with the Suby experts (Kent Porter), they recommend unplugging the MAF and O2 sensors so that the ECU goes to a default table...started right up. I then flipped the MAF around and tried again and it started right up. The MAF is key'ed on the intake pipe, but I had the intake pipe facing the wrong direction.

-Britain

I can't wait to see how you do this year. It's a tough class but you were looking good last year with what you had. Now you have an even better power to weight.

Are you taking the car to the big show this year?

That is the plan...gotta represent my sponsor www.where2race.com

-Britain

Sweet

Yeah checked out the video on FB last night. Sounds great Brit! I can't wait for the dyno day video

Yea, just got a call from the tuner...Monday is a no go for him. Therefore, it will be some other day next week...no problem, that will give me a bit more time to sort things out.

-Britain

You Have been presented with this trophy, in honor of the awesome subie build documentation.

I stumbled and got stuck here.

Thanks for the Motor mount ideas for my vanagon subie conversion #2.
I really like my first one. 2.2 in an a Doublecab. What an improvement!!

A learning point. I hope you donor was a standard transmission.
The autos have no power below 2,500rpm then they come on. Don't ask how I know this.

I will check in periodically. I hope you and your son have a great season.

Cheers
Dudley

Thanks Dudley.

Right now I am delayed a bit waiting on parts. During the first start-up, I determined that there was an oil leak in the turbo drain as a result of the position of the turbo. There are two problems with the position of the turbo, first of all it is a little too low in relation to the oil pan. This is not an issue during normal operation, but during start-up or shut-down the accusump takes in another 2 quarts of oil. If it is not operated properly, then that oil is in the block and potential filling the turbo and could ruin the turbo. The second problem is the turbo drain flange that I made is not perfect flat and leaks.

To alleviate the problem, I have ordered a scavenge pump from www.turbowerx.com and all the associate AN fittings from www.aeroquip.cc and it should all arrive next week. It should be a straight forward install and a little extra wiring. Dyno time has been pushed a week to sort out this problem. Everything else on the car seems to be working properly at this point.

-Britain

Dyno time:

(And that should read ANXIOUSLY.)

-- brett

Small thought,, The stock angle of the suby motor and tranny have considerable angle towards the back. Outfront has stated that they made a oil pan with different kickouts for the midengine configurations.. For the longest time I saw no need or reason....but I believe Sawtooth ran into some small issues with this on his tranny..again do to our level install.. He added more oil and another filler plug to the tranny.. I now understand what Outfront was talking about.. I see that you have the accusump but thought I'd let you know considering how hard this car will be driven.

Yes, I am aware of the stock angle of the Subaru engine. In fact, I have raised the front of the engine as much as I improve the ground clearance of the stock oil pan and the header that I am running. I have not heard good things about the Outfront shortened oilpan for high-g applications and therefore wanted to stay away from a super-short oil pan. I might be fabricating my own oil pan down the road, but we shall see.

-Britain

cool,, but not there shortened pan,, they have a MId engine pan,, its not pictured, but I have seen at there shop.. sounds like you have it covered,, back to trying to get mine done!!!

Their midengine pans is shortened as well I believe. If you have a picture, show it here.

-Britain

Click to view attachment

Brit,
In your ECU and wiring install, could you expand what the rear fuses are used for? I am trying to finalize the suby wiring on my engine with the stock ECU and would like to cross reference with your wiring.

BTW, your setup is amazing! Thanks for all the pics!

Cheers ,
Nate

Hey Nate...I need to update my diagrams for the stuff that I have added, but I can send all my diagrams to you if you would like.

From memory, the top 2 fuses are +12V from the battery and send power to both the ECU and the main relay. The bottom 3 fuses are switched 12V from the ignition switch and go to the ECU, coils, VSS (vehicle speed sensor), and NPS (neutral position switch).

-Britain

Britain,
In regards to the turbo.
If you are feeding High pressure oil to the bearing and then dumping that to the Low pressure sump. Does it really matter if it does not gravity drain.
The only possible issue as I see it would be coking the bearing in the turbo due to no cool down time prior to shut down.

The leak I understand just not the added complication of scavenge pump and its associated plumbing.

I would tend to agree with you, however, I'm not expert on turbos, Subies, and their innerworkings. Brit's gurus on this seem to think that I could result in blown turbo seals. I am one skeptical, cynical SOB and have seen enough "gurus" on the Porsche side of the house to last me a lifetime. Without empirical info I can't say they're fulla crap so to be extra safe the smart money is to go with them....untill ya *know* different......and , of course, they are not spending my money.
I *think* part of the problem is the drain line he installed is not made to be pressurized.....even a little bit.

You are correct, the drain line is a gravity drain. However, if the drain line is filled with oil then there is no where for the oil to gravity drain into. My issue is that the height of the turbo in relation to the oil level is marginal at best. Any situation where the oil level raises (i.e. when the accusump is opened, or the car is started on a downward angle) then the turbo will be filled with oil and could result in damage to the turbo. On a seperate note, the drain line I had made leaked and was not an ideal solution.

-Britain

I am working to finish everything up before receiving the oil scavenge pump and getting this thing on the dyno.

First thing was to add a additional switch for the oil scavenge pump and while I was there, I added labels for the confused.



Shifter installed and functioning.


I installed a Hall Effect Sensor under the shifter and a magnet in the shifter to detect Neutral Position for the ECU. The red LED indicates that is it aligned.


Hall Effect Sensor installed on the CV to pick up Vehicle Speed.


In full droop, the axle doesn't hit the exhaust pipe. WIN!


ECU fully wired up and wires secured.


Oil filter sandwich plate with Oil Temp Sensor.


In-line water temperature sensor.


The scavenge pump and the associated AN lines and fitting should all be here by Thursday. That gives me a week to sort everything out before the dyno tuning.

-Britain

Where did you get your Hall Effect sensors? I like those with the LED.

Love the neutral sensor.

Got the sensors from: http://www.digikey.com/

55110-3H-02-A-ND SENSOR HALL EFFECT W/LED PNL MNT

Ah man it is frustrating to wait on parts to arrive

Guess I will go work on my site: www.where2race.com

-Britain

Britain,

Your project is really progressing nicely. You have given me new motivation to complete my GRM Challenge car. I was stuck at where to mount the ECU. I cut the rear trunk out of my car so the intercooler will stay in the stock location and flush up against the rear decklid. I am going to mount the ECU in the trunk in a plastic housing to protect it against the elements.

Where did you find the inline temp sensor? That looks like a nice piece.

I got both the sandwich adapter and the inline water temp adapter from Prosport.

http://prosportgauges.com/water-temp-sende...se-adaptor.aspx

-Britain

Got the Turbowerx scavenge pump and associated AN fitting in the mail yesterday and got them all install. Due to space limitation and rules around the size of holes allowing in the firewall, I chose to plumb this up using bulkhead fittings. The turbo drain is now connected on one end and pump oil back into the oil pan. Few wires to hook up and the system is working perfect.





Still working on understand the coolant system, for some reason I don't think I am getting water to circulate properly. I will troubleshoot more this evening.

-Britain

Pretty cool Britain. What a huge job! But on your first run it'll all be worth it.

Watched Brit drive the shitbox (or whatever he's calling it) up and down his street today. With the tall first gear (F) & light flywheel he kilt it 2-3 times trying to get it moving .....when he finally got it the tires were chirping. A few half throttle pases down his street left loooong black marks when the turbo kicked in.

He has a couple problems to solve, but it's stout.....oh, excuse me.....it's AWESOME!!! ...he said I wasn't excited enough.

I can't wait to see the video

Alright, world premier. The car is officially off jackstands and driving under it own power. The throttle is a light switch, the acceleration is unbelievable, and the hydraulic clutch assembly is perfect. Gotta fix a water leak on the coolant line coming out of the turbo and need to determine why so much oil is coming out of the muffler...most likely due to the issues I had with the turbo drain or overfilled from the accusump. Either way, it will be ready for the dyno on Monday.

Check out the video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cbhc_2y2lYU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cbhc_2y2lYU


-Britain

BTW, that wasn't even full throttle in the video...I tried full throttle once and the back end jumped out on me...perfect!

-Britain

Now it is the "oh shit" box.
Or you could name it after the expletives the neighbors up and down the street shout as you razzzz by.

LOVE it. Congrats man. Awesome to see it running. Hope dyno Monday goes well.

JP didn't even need to light up.....just inhale

nice job Brit....no mosquitoes in your neighborhood today.