Thanks.

How long did it take you? Is there a built thread...I would like to check it out!

Thanks Joe.

The only way the car will be there is under it's own power. May need help with an engine/tranny install this winter. Hopefully some local help is available.

Welded the drivers side engine shelf and reworked piece of front engine bay sheet metal in. I hit a couple areas with seam sealer before welding, as they would be difficult to get at after the piece was installed. It took a wide variety of grinding wheels and Dremmel tools to gring down the welds in the tight areas. Overall, it went well, but I took a hit from some molten metal in the arm and scalp when filling the rosettes on the bottom...just very minor burns:

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14" or so of the tube that holds the enging bay lid cable was rusted away. I had a chunk of brake line in the shop, so I cut it down, bent it and tack welded it in. Used a #1 phillips screwdriver through the firewall hole to keep it centered up front. Ran the cable through to make sure the alignment was correct, then applied a coat of JB weld over the seams:

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You get to that point Bob and I will drive up there and help you install it myself.

With my fantasy football season in ruins, I blew off the early games and welded in the bottom section of the door jam from Restoration Design. I have had consistent problems lately (bad batch?) with Eastwood's Copper Weld-Thru primer, so I switched to a product I found at Home Depot. Eastwood sent me replacements cans for the ones I had problems with - they kept clogging and left a rough finish. When the replacements did the same thing, they issued a full refund. I started with the inside rosettes and worked my way out. Had to beat it into place with a hammer & drift as I went. It took about seven passes of welding/grinding on the vertical part of the jam to build the metal up to where I wanted it...very time consuming, just as the passenger side was:

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Had to fabricate a small patch piece that connects the lower fender to the door jam. Made a template and banged it out of leftover galvaneal steel from Restoration Design:

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Start saving your gas money Shoe!

Dug the used sill triangles out of the scrap heap. Had to fill the holes in top of one of them. The rear one needed to be "slimmed down" to fit under the door sill in the area I used modified a piece of clam shell to patch the long. Sprayed the areas to be welded with weld-thru primer:

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Welded the engine bay seal channel in on the drivers side and a small piece at the front. This stuff comes straight from Restoration Design. Used a tape measure pressed against the curves to get the exact measurement. Drilled holes for rosettes about every 3". Starting with the back, I welded one rosette at a time and moved the welding clamps forward as I went. This piece went in nicely and didn't even distort along the bends:

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That's odd..the engine seal channel came pre-welded to the RD shelf I bought. It came from a German supplier...???

What side engine shelf?

The passenger side I bought from RD had the seal channel already installed. As far as I know, nobody makes the drivers side engine shelf yet.

Seems I have trouble with just about any kind of rattle can spray nozzle that I get.
About half come DOA and won't fire up.

Nice work ................ things are coming along good.

Nice work! I need to do the seal channel on the right side of my car one of these days. Thanks for posting your progress pics.

Thanks, I am trying to get a few hours in the shop each day.

Overall, I have had good results with most rattle cans, even earlier batches of Eastwoods Copper Weld-Thur primer...I'm not sure what changed with the product, but I had nothing but hassles with the last batch. To Eastwood's credit, they issued a quick refund when I complained.

You are welcome. Reading build threads by Scotty B, Jeff Hail and others gave me the courage and education to embark on this journey.

The old channel comes out quickly once you find the spot welds. Spot weld cutting bit was awesome for removing them. Someone at RD told me to heat the seal channel with a torch to get it to bend, which I was prepped to do, but I found that the welding clamps alone drew it in nicely. I was happy to exclude a lit propane torch WHILE welding in the engine bay.

Welded in the drivers side sill triangles. Measured position of the rear off the jackpost with a combination square using measurements from the passenger side and the front using a tape measure off the front triangle. Checked for square against the bottom of the door sill before welding:

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Installed the drivers side jacking donut from Restoration Design. Used a bottle jack to hold it in place. Started with the area that joins to the floor pan and worked my way back, moving the jack as I went. Took a measurement from the passenger side to determine the distance in from the longitudinal seam:

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Prepped and applied ospho on the door sill, clam shell, outer floor pan and rear wheelhouse area. Always amazed at how black some areas get with very little visable rust after applying ospho:

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After hearing a few horror stories about engine decklid hinge points breaking loose, I took a close look at mine. Passenger side looked fine, but the drivers side was weak...the lowest spot weld had failed. Cleaned the area, used a hammer and drift to bang the lower section back in and seam welded the edge:

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Prepped the door sill & sprayed primer. With the cold weather setting in, I heat up the garage, shoot a coat on the car, immediately open the garage door & window to get the fumes out and repeat as necessary:

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Started the final prep for ospho/primer/paint in the engine bay. There is surface rust in a lot of places. This is taking a ton of time. I have been using a combination of wire wheels with a drill, die grinder with scotch brite pads, dremmel tool with with wire wheel attachments and gool old wire brush to remove any loose material. The factory firewall heat barrier will be replaced with one purchased from Mark that won't hold water:

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Bob, looks like a productive day.

Light work on the teener today. Sprayed two coats of Rust Encapsulator on the clam shell, part of floor pan, rear fender well and suspension ear:

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While crawling out from under the engine bay, I noticed a lot of surface rust in and around the drivers side shock tower. Checked the passenger side and it was much better. Hit the area with a wire wheel to prep for ospho:

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Seam sealed the drivers side door sill and inner fender well, paying careful attention to the patch on the inner wheelhouse. Decided against braising the door jam as the factory did, mostly because I don't have any braising equipment :

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On another trip out from under the car, I caught a glimpse of something that didn't quite look right on the inner drivers side suspension ear. A few taps with a hammer and screwdriver and I was through...made me very nervous about the integrity of the entire piece, as the drian hole was completely clogged. Hit the whole lower section with a wire wheel and hammer/screwdriver. Discovered a hole on the outside as well. Will be contacting Chris Foley @ tangerine racing about his suspension arm reinforcing kit. While I'm glad I found it now, it will set me back a bit:

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Hit the entire engine bay with scotch brite, gave it a good cleaning and applied a coat of Ospho:

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Applied Ospho to rusted area in and around shock tower:

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Found some surface rust in the fenderwell. Hit it with a wire wheel and applied ospho:

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Hollywood stopped over & helped me remove the door and rear trunk lid...the garage is filling up again:

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Great progress!

Wanted to pull the door off again so I could give it a close inspection. I thought it was in much worse shape than it actually was and even started looking for a donor door. It was just surface rust on the lower door skin and seal channel with a single small rust hole near the front. Welded the hole shut up front. Measured the placement of the negative "PORSCHE" decal and removed it as there were a few rust bubbles under it. Cleaned everything with a wire wheel & scotch brite wheels and applied a coat of ospho to the rusty areas:

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Donut was installed improperly at the factory.
The bottom should be flat to the ground.
I've seen that before.

A pair of console reinforcements will be shipped today Bob!

I hate to tell you this, but that suspension console is probably bad. If you have rust holes like that, it's always worse than it looks.

Had to pull the pedal cluster out in to clean the drivers side pan for opsho. Followed the Pelican article, which was helpful, except that my clutch cable was screwed in...not a "cup" connector. Disconnected the accellerator cable, then removed the bolts. Screwed the clutch cable out after getting the pedal assembly loose. If I remember right, the PO said that they had this unit rebuilt at some point. Ripping around the neighborhood a few years back, everything worked well, so I cleaned it and banged a coat of ospho on the surface rust:

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Hit an area on the left front of the car with ospho after discovering more surface rust while removing the petal cluster:

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Had to weld the tab of a replacement piece to the interior of the car. This piece was fabricated to repair the drivers side fender well. I must have forgotten about it:

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Removed the glue and cleaned the rear firewall with a host of chemical glue removers, wire wheels & scotch brite pads...what a job! I wasn't concerned about the residual glue as much as rust that could be hiding beneath it. Cleaned, prepped and applied ospho on the drivers side pan and firewall as needed:

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Brutal...That piece was purchased from Restoration Design. I thought it looked a bit odd when installing it, but didn't have a stock one to reference. Great, something else to deal with.

Excellent - thanks Chris!

Usually the clevis is removed from the pedal arm before unscrewing it from the cable.
But sometimes the clevis pin is corroded in place, and your approach becomes necessary anyhow.
The cup connector goes on the throttle cable.

Hit the door with a light coat of filler and spot putty:

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Hit a few areas with surface rust with some opsho & rustoleum:

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Finished the drivers side floor pan and most of the inner firewall with with 2 coats of rust encapsulator and seam sealer:

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Looks great, your moving right along. Great work!

Spripped the paint back with a wire wheel further up the drivers side suspension console to check for any more rust through. Hit any area that showed any kind of surface pitting with a hammer and screwdriver to verify its integrity. In the end, I was left with four small holes, two on the inside and two on the outside. Welded the holes as prep for the installation of the Tangerine inner console reinforcement:

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Started fitting the inner suspension console reinforcement:

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Ran the drivers side door seal through the dishwasher a few times & treated it with RV slide out seal conditioner:

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Shot two coats of primer on the drivers side door. Upon opening the garage door to let the fumes out, a gust of wind blew the plastic back onto the wet paint. It will need some touch up:

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Completely out of space, the front trunk of my teener is now doubling as a hamper for work clothes :

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Looks great Bob!

have you ever drivin this car

Great stuff as always Bob..

What was your rationale for putting the suspension re-inforcement in?

Yes.

Had the original D-Jet 2.0 running pretty well a few months after purchase. Used to rip around the neighborhood in the teener. It was awesome! That was the year 2009.

Thanks Ollie.

After discovering those small rust holes in the bottom of the suspension console, I was pretty nervous about the structural integrity of the area as these cars tend to rust from the inside out. I don't want to end up dealing with any more major structural repairs down the road and saw this product as my best way to strengthen the suspension console.

Welded the inner console reinforcement from Tangerine Racing on tonight. I started at the back of it and worked my way forward with tack welds to get it in place, then zipped up all the seams, cooling regularly with compressed air after every 3/4 inch or so burst. I was welding thicker (16 gauge) metal, so the settings were different on the mig...took me a while to get used to it. Gave everything a good cleaning with a wire wheel, then went back and touched up a few areas with the welder on a lower wire feed:

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Damn Bob, good torch work for a rookie;-)

I gotta learn mig all over again. I was always good with the torch and reshaping metal as a kid, wish I hadn't stopped to play with electronics for 35 years - welding has improved, but it's still a job that exudes satisfaction when you are done, especially if done right:-))

Dave

Brushed two coats of acrylic enamel on the section of door channel with surface rust (previously oshpo'd):

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Before buying the cheap HVLP paint gun from HF, I read the reviews on it. Everyone who had success with it recommended a thorough cleaning before use. I tore the gun completely down and cleaned everything up. There was some type of silicone substance packed in there. Ran some mineral spirits through it under pressure to clear it out after putting it all back together:

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Started taping everything off for primer and paint in the engine bay. Masking this area was a royal PITA! To cover the wiring harnesses, I cut strips of plastic from a trash bag to wrap the wires & masking tape to hold it in place:

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Drained the compressor tank of water and added an inline water separator to the air hose. Set the pressure regulator to 50PSI as recommended by the paint gun manufacturer. Practiced using the spray gun on an old piece of plywood to get used to the settings, then shot two coats of primer in the engine bay. Getting into all the crevices with a gravity feed paint gun was rough. I had to go back and hit a few small areas underneath with Rustoleum primer as I couldn’t position the paint gun properly. The gun clogged on me several times and I ended up with a rough, almost "sandy" finish in a few areas...not sure if it was due to overspray, the gun, or the amateur using the gun. Hit the whole area with sandpaper and/or scotch brite to prep for color, then applied a coat of seam sealer to the drivers side:

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Thanks Dave. My welding is becoming respectable as this project continues. I really do enjoy it! (the welding part at least)

I am sure that your welding skills will come back to you with just a little practice. I was fair with a torch and arc welder before buying the mig set up I have now.

Bob