That is a nice project.

They look good.

John

Nice progress.

thanks guys for the kind words! I cant wait to finish the welding tonight!

Received my CA blue plates in the mail today! I bought them on ebay for $18.
When i register the car i want to do it at a AAA because they usually let little thinkgs slide, and although your alowed to register old plates to a car, they have to be period correct. the plates i have are the 7-digit sequence series of the blue plates, which started in 1980, so i would technically need the 6-digit sequence of the blue plate which ran from 1969-1980. So hopefully they dont car about that small little fact.
these plates are in great shape!! looks like they were only used one year! there is only one registration sticker on it, and its from 1980, these are time capsule plates

wow david those plates are sharp! hopefully you wont have any problems registering them.

My white car had blue plates... but only one So I just got reg.

Ya thats one of the requirements, must have both plates!

I bought a set of similar plates off ebay, but my research on "year of manufacture" plates in California, how it seemed to me is you have to have plates with the exact sticker, month and year that your car was made - you then put the current registration sticker in your glove compartment.

The problem is that no police officer actually knows this law and so you end up getting pulled over and trying to explain the law to a new cop every week.

A way to do it that might work is to pay for a custom plate with those numbers and then just hang the blue one - a custom plate is a custom plate

Finished welding the first sway bar arm link, turned out nice!
I am going back to the shop tomorrow morning to shear and bend more pieces, trying to have two pairs done by this saturday.

Cool. You are going to clean up those welds a little before powder-coating, right?

Haha, yes yes, indeed they will be cleaned up.

Hey i never got back to you about that DS seat mount you were going to see if you had an extra of laying around. I was referring to the part picture below.

Thanks for the reminder ... I'll check to see if the one I have is a DS tomorrow (well, actually later today).

Sweeeeeet, thanks Mark!

I am interested in a set of those arms if you have one available.

I will zinc chromate them so I don't want them powder coated.

Thanks,

John

Cool John, thanks for the support in the product. I will let you know when I have your set done, should be by next weekend, and ill leave it plain for you to plate.

David, if you want, we can throw a set of your first arms on my car real quick and head out on the roads around Pomona and beat the crap out of them if you want to do strength testing.. If it can survive the potholes around school, it can survive anything. haha

HAHA, Yes! That sounds perfect! Dude the potholes on Valley on the way to in and out were the worst!! I am so happy they fixed that road, cause thats how i get home from school everyday!

Haha, tell me about it! In all seriousness though, if you can finish a set before the weekend and want them tested, let me know if you want them strength tested on a car..haha

Thanks man i appreciate that. Should actually have a set finished tonight... you busy later?? (after 8)

Those potholes have been on Valley since I was at Cal Poly... That road has been crap for years.

I have vector statics from 8-9:15 tonight, but after that im good.

Register your plate as a vanity plate but you will have a premium every year.

Haha, i bet! they fixed them this summer, so now its smooth sailing!!



I loved statics! if you want any old quizes for practice problems i have all my old material from Izadi's class, got 20/20 on all but one (19/20) of his quizes that quarter, if only it were still that easy

Ill text you sometime after 930

Hey David, can you text me again? I had to drive ALL the way home last night to get a new phone and lost all my numbers..

So i havent made too much progress the past week plus on the car since school has been keeping me occupied a lot, but as always, i have been collecting parts! A few items on the list that came in the mail/picked up at the swap meet:
engine rebuild gasket kit, tons of various bushings (susp and shifting), front bumper (for temporary use), rebuilt pedal cluster from Bruce, tilton master cylinder and hard line (for hydraulic clutch set up, will talk about in a latter post), platted pushrod tubes (thanks mark!!), 911 gague pod items (big clock, oil temp/oil pressure, fuel level/oil level), driver side mirror, PCA orange coast region sticker, and probably a few more things i am forgetting...

Had a wonderful time at Joe Sharps BBQ yesterday and the swap meet today. Was able to chat with a bunch of cool 914 guys this weekend, so that was really enjoyable (also got to see everyones sweet cars for inspiration)!!

I have an important topic i would like to start discussing, external oil cooler. I have never seen or heard of this being done, but i really want to mount it under the cowl fresh air openings, essentially taking the spot of the fresh air box and blower (which have been removed for good.) The cooler, which i will probably be getting from bruce, is a smaller one that i will have 3 92mm fans on the backside of sucking air through and blowing it into a custom air box that will lead into two "dump pipes," which i think i might plumb to go into the long heater tubes (this part is up in the air, but seams like it would be good solution, the holes in the fire wall are there...) The actual oil transportation hard lines will follow the path of the charcoal filter lines, the holes and grommets are already there waiting to be used!
This cooler will be on a partial flow system, leaving the stock cooler there and having the sandwich adapter to get the oil into the cooler. The fans will be operated by a switch in the cabin as opposed to thermostatically controlled.
Would LOVE to hear everyones opinons!!
I have modeled up the cowl, cooler, fans, and air box to see how much room they will be taking up. I have a total of just over 9" to work with from the bottom surface of the cowl to the bulkhead, and so far these parts will only take up 5" of that (keeping in mind though that the funnel into the two side exit tubes have not been modeled.....
Cheers

Ducting into a split valve for venting out to the atmosphere or heating the passenger compartment sounds cool (actually, hot)

How about adding a lever operated cowl flap (scoop)?

I would like to add a small scoop over it, but not right away. Want to see how it performs without it, and then i can make one later and see if it helps...

Haven't posted in awhile since its now approaching the last week of this quarter, and this is when shit gets hectic so the teener fell to the sidelines.

Did have a little time here and there to sort a few things out though. I had a pile of random seals from both cars, so i went thorough those put them on the car and went through a list of all the ones i will need to order from 914 rubber. The other thing i accomplished this morning was test fitting the fiberglass pieces i have, 911 dash and 916 rear bumper. I came up with how im going to secure the dash in. Going to cut out a few holes on the top surface of the metal under piece that are the size of the OD of a washers that will have a nut wilded to the bottom of it, then weld that washer/nut assembly to that metal piece with the nut facing downwards. will then have matching holes on the FG dash and will use hex head bolts to make it easy for removal if needed. The bumper fits pretty decently, wont have to do much sanding for it to fit nice and snug.

BTW, does anyone have recommendations for painting FG parts!?!? they flex under stress and i feel like that will therefore cause cracks in the paint after a little while... tips, tricks, and techniques will be appreciated!



Cat wants to go for a test drive

hey david i read a great tutorial about changing from a 914 dash to a 911 and that guy didnt have to drill any holes. or make any real mods. i dont know where that tutorial is. but its out there.

http://rockaria.net/914/gettydash/index.html



here's one of them, looks awesome. Looking good feltzy !!!!

Lookin' good, David. The 916 bumper looks really clean, and I'm sure saves a fair amount of weight.

You might try paint with a flex agent, used for modern cars with the urethane (?) bumper caps...that oughta prevent cracking. You might add some extra fiberglass on the back side of the piece to any areas that seem weak. And add an extra brace or two.

--Doug

Sweet thanks for the link boogie man, i think i read through that a while back but forgot about it. ill have to look through it later. My main thing is i believe they still used stock mounting holes and that CF piece came with mounting studs on it (i could be wrong on that, like i said i havent read that article in a long time). and what i want to avoid it using the stock mounting method, its a PAIN in the ass! i want it to be simple and clean, and dont mind doing an little cutting and welding to make that happen. Either way i need to got through that article since it talks about wiring the new gauges too!! need to know that for sure!!

Doug thanks for the tip, ill look into flex agent.... is like an additive to normal paint??

I Liked this one

http://www.phoenixhobbies.com/html/911_dash.html

i do like that too! but that would require me finding more parts!! haha, its cool that that can be done though. just read through the first one you posted and it looks like there are standoffs glassed into the Getty one, which are not on mine...

I'm not sure exactly whether it's an additive, or a paint formulated for flexible bumpers. Any auto paint shop would know.

I did some google searching on flex agent for fiberglass painting, and like many car topics, some say use it some say its not necessary with modern paints, primers and top coats if done correctly from the beging. biggest thing is all the oils and wax need to be cleaned off and removed before any sanding or priming takes place....
and also like you said, if properly braced and extra thickness added to weaker areas, not much flexing should occur that would be large enough for cracking to take place.

To paint over fiberglass will not need a flexible additive. I would sand it down
with 150 grit, put a 2 part primer on it, prep again with either 320 dry or 400
wet sand paper with a final scuff of 500-800 if needed. If you're close, bring it
by my shop to see what can be done.

Thanks

Scott

Thanks Scott, I appreciate the offer! If your shop is in san juan Capistrano your on my way to san diego! and i will probably be going down that way next friday... i may PM you later next week....

Anytime/anything to help

Finals are finished!! So I will have a week to crank out work on the Porsche! I started Thursday night taking apart the carbs and cleaning them in carb dip, checking all the individual parts for damage. Of all the parts only one idle jet needs replacing, the hole is slightly twisted. I am trying to do a bunch of research on what sizing to go with, Doug and Ethan are helping me out a lot with that too! Currently have 30 venturies, 115 main jet, 50 idle, and an f11 emulsion tube (dual 40 webers) don't remember what the air vents are at... Any suggestions will be accepted!!

Right now and until Tuesday I am in San Diego! Wooooow I get to go surfing and hang out and eat good food!

Clean parts from one


Idle jet that needs replacing

Hey guys, It's been a long time since I last gave an update, and I have been getting work done on the car, but its been slow and little by little, so nothing every seemed worthy of giving an update for...

But heres where I am at with the engine: I have removed all of the pistons and cylinders for cleaning/inspection. Once the piston heads were cleaned of the layers of carbon build up they turned out looking pretty nice. The cylinders all look pretty clean in my opinion, all still have honing lines very visible. Only thing i noticed was that one cylinder at the base (side that goes into case, has a piece chipped off the edge. I feel that it shouldn't be much of a hindrance, but if someone thinks otherwise please interrupt. I have a set of new piston rings to go along with the rebuild, and when i do put it back together do i just need to oil the wrist pins and oil the cylinder walls? or is there anything else that needs lubed up?

The chip


cylinder walls


Pistons before


Pistons being cleaned


Cleaned Pistons


Carbs are also back together and ready to go, with brand new velocity stacks to go along with them. They are currently set up right now with F-11 emulsion tubes, 115 mains, 50 idles, 200 air, and 30 venturis. All parts were soaked in carb dip and scrubbed down clean!


Theres a few other things i want to discuss, but ill wait for now.

Is there a way to tell if your flywheel is worn by just inspecting it while its still mounted? I ask because I discovered that my throwout fork on the tranny that came with the engine was heated and bent to a curve. I posted a question regarding this and some one had suggested that the flywheel was probably machined. I also anticipate that the clutch cable was significantly stretched, I say this because when i was disconnecting the cable, at the end there were two sockets used as spacers, one regular and one deep socket(!), before the final nut was threaded on the tip! thats a lot of stretch!
This cable was on the old car and will therefore not be used on the new one but i am still wondering if i should be looking deeper into this and be inspecting the flywheel and other close by components for wear? What are your opinions on the matter??

Here are the two forks i have, as you can see one was altered!


I have no idea if this picture will help at all, but if you see anything odd, or have a direction for me to start looking in for possible wear spots, it will be very helpful


Thanks!

Well for starters we can't see the flywheel. The picture you posted is of the pressure plate that is attached to the flywheel. The clutch disc will be between the above mentioned parts.

You can get an idea of wear from looking at the flywheel surface, but if you're not sure, let a pro inspect it.

Also, if those "fingers" around the center of the pressure plate have a groove worn in them, as they appear to have in the picture, I would replace it.

If you pull the flywheel, bring it to school on wednesday and we can have a look. If someone took the time to heat and bend the clutch fork though, it means that something in that pack is definetely not correct...

Thanks Mike for the rundown of the components, I appreciate it!

Ethan, I'll text you for your availability! Also, if your not in class tomorrow at 6, there is a presentation in the BSC by a NASA engineer that was on the challenger team that would not sign the consent for launch over the safety risks at stake that were ignored by the others, should be pretty good. Ill be there since my engineering ethics professor is requiring us to be there.

FINALLY STARTED ENGINE REASSEMBLY! Ethan came over and gave me a big hand in getting me on my way with the engine, YAAAAAY.

New piston rings all around


Clean cylinders


All four pistons and cylinders back on tonight

Tonight i got both heads put on and torqued down, I reused the head gaskets because the ones that came in the engine gasket set were too small. The old ones were in great condition, i cleaned them up a little and they looked fine to use. Cleaned up and rattle caned the deflectors and put those back on too. Then cleaned up the oil cooler a little bit so it was shinny again







Going to try and work on the valve train next.

Arent the head gaskets Copper? I thought they needed to be annealed before being reused.

I think your thinking of the gaskets on the exhaust ports, which i have new ones of and will be annealing those before using. i believe the head gaskets on the cylinder side i was speaking of are aluminum.