Thats awesome, thanks, I will definitely take you up on that when im ready (will save me $100!!)

My plan is to have this car finished enough to drive down to san diego where I'm from and where my parents still live for spring break (mid March.) So an alignment will be need just before that!

Also, side note, I will eventually be putting the car back to its original color, L 21E, Tangerine Orange, and am very excited for that when the time comes, i really like that color. I have the whole paint scheme worked out in my head. My rims are currently powder coated white from the factory (off a 924 turbo brumos edition) but i hate it, love the rims not the color, so i will get them re-powder coated some shade of gray, will go really well with the orange. will have black or grey interior and cant decide on the engine tin, either black, grey, or tangerine..... hmmmmm

well thats all i have for now, need to start my homework, im really behind since i have spent every waking hour of saturday and sunday working on the car, wooops.

... and post a want ad for the side shift components. Hopefully something will show up before you are ready to install the drive train into the 'new' car

Didnt get much done with the car today, since it was a three day weekend, monday became my sunday and i had a good amount of homework to do. BUT i did put the rear susp back on the '72, so it is now a full rolling car (and there is no e-brake conected, so once it starts rollin it aint gonna stop easily ) But i am one step closer to getting it out of my garage and getting my new babe, the 71 inside before next monday (whether man says rain is coming!)



Anyone have any ideas about the odd dulling of one of the pushrods, pictured a few posts up.....

DO you have a posting on here that describes the "at home" 4 wheel alignment?
James

Anyone have any ideas about the odd dulling of one of the pushrods, pictured a few posts up.....
[/quote]

It is from the spring that holds the lifters in place. It was not installed perfectly and rubbed the pushrod. If there is no real wear / loss of material you should be fine to reuse it.

Cool, thanks for the info!

Bummer. The website is gone. I'll keep looking. I gotta find it again.

Got the Rear wheels on! she's half way to being able to roll around. fitment with stock fenders and 205 tires is gonna be close but i think it will fit just perfectly. Will be flaring front and rear eventually anyways.

Yup, the web site i used is gone. But this is the thread i found it it. This thread should give you a pretty good idea on how to do it. And the stock adjustment numbers should be in the Haynes manual. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...125788&st=0

I have one one of those wheels was new, now just sitting outside, If you really like those and I sell mark my 64 911 flywheel, I wll ship it to you.

Sure, why not! Thanks

I saw Ray Scruggs win the Parade autocross years ago in his silver 914-6, I also watched the loser in his 914-6 protest, it was hilarious.

Home Alignment , By Ray Scruggs;

http://www.2l7registry.com/doc/georacing.pdf

sweet thanks for the link!

Did you decide on a price Jeff?

Shit! I looked for for hours for that today. COOL!

one million dollars..............plus shipping

How much ya think shipping might be?

SO I was able to switch out my two 914s and get the new one in the garage, without even having wheels on the front!! just used a jack to hold up and steer the front. Went surprisingly well, only took about 5min so that was good. It looks good in there



Although I am not quite at this point, i do have a question that needs to be addressed eventually. I have a FG rear deck lid, but its the racing one, so there are no supports or structures or mounting holes on the underside. So is there a way to mount it so that i can still have it on a hinge system, stock or not (would probably want to use a modern type of shock as apposed to a spring) but i know that i cant just bolt a bracket to it and call it good, there would be to much flex in the un-stability of having no support structure and it would crack the paint from flexing so much..... I know i could just have four deck lid pins, one at each corner, and no hinging action, but i really dont want to go that route. any ideas or anyone have experience with these types of FG pieces.

mocked up on the 72


underside


Thanks!

I think that it would take a hell of a lot of work to make that decklid work on hinges. If you really like it, it might be worth it, but if it were me, I would probably put it up for sale.

I have been paying close attention to this thread, but I missed how you got that broken bolt out of the suspension mount. What did you end up doing?

BTW - amazed at how much you have accomplished in 10 days! Having fun watching it happen.

Thanks, I am trying to get this guy on the road by mid march, so there is a lot to be done problem is my girl feels the opposite, she is amazed how little time i am putting into her, oops. its ok though she understands my passion, thankfully.

Oh ya, that bolt..... hehe. I didnt post what i did with that. I drilled it out, and am currently only running two susp console bolts on the DS. i knew it would be fine for the time being, but WILL fix prior to driving. I'm planning on just drilling a little more to make it up to the next size, tap it to an M12, order an M12 x 1.5 x 80 PT bolt and call it a day.

Just in time David. It looks like it might rain. About that bolt, maybe an american size bolt might be closer in diameter so you dont have to hog it all the way out to 12mm. I wonder if a nutsert would be strong enuff? I think I have a 10mm nutsert tool.

Or thru bolt it....

Relationships come and go, but good cars are there forever. Or is it the other way around? Hell, I can't remember!

Back when I got my first 914, I was single and had a bunch of time but no money. Now, I have a family and some money, but no time. I love this thread because it makes me realize that when I thought that I had no money, I really could have pulled off a decent driver, but I was intent on a beauty queen.

Get that thing back together and have fun with it.

I thought of that too.... didnt really think about an insert though. I've never heard of "nutsert" kind of a funny word, makes the child in me giggle

Since I'm not familiar, my first question is with a 10mm "nutsert" (should always be in quotes so you know im laughing) is it meant to go in a damaged M10 and use a smaller bolt, or drill it out a little more put the "nutsert" in and use the original M10 bolt....?

Oh im having fun even with it on jack stands!! I love this hands on shit.

Also the reason it's coming together relatively fast is because i had the first shell for over six months, and durring that time i was collecting parts and all that good stuff, and reading as much as i could about this little beauty of a car. And then i dumped that first shell (now posted in the FS section as of today) and got a way nicer shell that i could personally work with.

problem is i am completely out of money, recently started selling of parts i dont need that came with my shells. I actually need to call my parents and ask them to loan me some dough so i can finish the engine partial rebuild, thats pretty much the only thing i have left to buy. Once summer comes around and i am working at my internship in San Diego, i will pay them back! I hope they go for it, they know how much i love this project

I'm sorry. Not nutsert but a timesert. I'll check if I have a 10mm kit. Its similar to a helicoil but waaaay better. After you check out the link, let me know if you wanna use it. http://www.timesert.com/

Those look cool! ya if you have one i would definitely be interested in giving it a try! thanks!

Your in luck. I have a 10X1.0 kit and 10X1.25 kit. I don't remember the thread pitch you need so you'll have to check. Don't drill on the hole anymore. We will have to enlarge the hole an it take a special size. But I have the bit, its part of the kit. I have a few inserts but I dont think their long enuff. I think we should use the longest ones they make. They only cost a buck or two. Timesert is in Cali so if we got to order one they are only a day or 2 away. Other places sell the inserts so you can shop around. just make you get the steel ones. They come in aluminum too. When you figure out the pitch size, look at the timesert website for the part number. It will make googleing way easier.

Im glad I have the right kit. They are real lifesavers. especially when you strip an exhaust bolt on a sunday and have to drive your car to work on monday morning.... Or when you pull the friggin threads out when your changing spark plugs.

Havent updated in a few days...been sick Also didnt get much of anything accomplished in the past few days, just a few small things here and there. One thing i did do today was finally unpack a box of goodies (that i actually got from danny hunter a few months ago.) I unpacked a FG rear 916 bumper and a FG 911 5 gauge pod dash. They are in pretty good condition and will only need minor amounts of repairs to make perfect. I held the bumper on to see if i could get a feel for the fit, it looks decent, but will need some fine tuning, as do all FG parts.

Question regarding the condition of my starter motor. Since the PO had that extra starter solenoid, it leads me to believe that either the whole unit is weak, or just the stock solenoid is week. Because even when trying to start the engine, with the extra one on there, it had a hard time turning it over, and went very slowly. Should i just replace the whole unit? new solenoid is about $60, rebuilt stock starter motor complete is about $110... I would like to take it apart first but i dont know what i would be looking for

Doug, thanks for looking and glad you have those kits, and in both sizes as well, I'll have to check what the pitch is. As far as getting the longest one they have, what about accounting for the fact that the hole is only partially threaded. The threads dont start until just under half way up..

Here are the pics of the new FG pieces.





Cheers

Before spending money on a new starter and/or solenoid, I'd suggest checking the wiring of the starting system, including the ignition switch and grounds.

Mike

Will definitely do that thanks

I want to take apart the starter motor too, just sounds fun and i love taking things apart. I'll clean the points, but i dont know what else i would do except have fun putting it back together.

Accomplished a few things last night on the car.

First thing i did was take off all the old cracking and crumbly insulation material on the backside of the relay board. Once it was all off i checked continuity of all the wires, all were good! Then i applied two coats of new liquid electrical tape, i hope it holds up well, i may add another coat just to make sure.





After that i took the heads off the engine to inspect the piston tops, cylinders and valves. Bent two push rod tubes in the process, there goes $20. The inside of the cylinders look really good, can still see the honing lines. The piston tops look ok, no dings or anything like that, but they are SOOO dirty, so much carbon build up. And same with the heads, the valves are just covered in carbon. I know why this engine didnt want to start easily, the engine was running extremely rich and probably wasnt tuned correctly.

I need everyones opinion, I would like to save and reuse them, so how and with what can i clean the heads and piston tops. I would like to not remove the cylinders because i couldnt source rings on either pelican or AA, and would need a ring compressor. so whats your take....









Thanks

the heads, i would take to local machine shop and have them hot tanked. to clean piston crowns, take a piece of heavy guage solder and flatten with a coulple hammer blows. use this soft scraper to scrape carbon off with a liberal amount of carb cleaner. finish it with a good scrub with a scotchbrite pad. the soldier is much softer tan the pistons and wont marr them.

That thing was running RICH to get that much carbon deposited.. tank the heads, or soda blast them would be my recomendation..

Once its reassembled, id try to look into rejetting the carbs.. wideband AFR is your friend..

Dave, I have a shitload of freshly plated push rod tubes here. Let me know how many you want (you can have a complete set of 8 if you want them)

I will have to look into purchasing an AFR! what does re-jetting entail, I have the rebuild kit for the carbs, will that do them justice?

Mark I will definitely take a few, Thanks! how much for a set of 8??

Also, i just calipered the cylinders and they are coming in at 96mm. Stock for a 1.7L is 90mm right?

96mm means you've got a "big bore" kit installed vs stock pistons.
Re-jetting is mostly a matter of pulling the emulsion tubes from the carb centers or idle jet holders from the sides, replacing the applicable jet and reassembling.

hey david, if you wanna buy the soda your welcome to use my blasting cabinet. you could get all your blasting done in one day. carbs, pistons, cylinder heads. I can show you a couple of mods to do to those carbs also, before you put them back together....

Care to share those mods? I'm getting ready to do an all out carb re-jetting this weekend...

(1) Either come by the shop and pick 'em up, or $10. shipping

(2) Check the stroke of the crank. If you have 96mm pistons and 66mm stroke, you have a 1911 ... if 71mm stroke, you have a 2056

I know it looks like it's running rich but on the one set of heads looks like oil might be getting by the rings as well?

Did you see the engine running or did you do a compression test on it before you pulled it?

Might want to have a look at the rings are seated and lined up properly while it's torn down at this point.

Will you be at the dawn patrol run this Saturday? I can get them then.

I will take measurements of the stroke to find out! Ill keep my fingers crossed for a 2056!

That would actually make sense if one of the rings were broken, cause after I ran it the next day I noticed a puddle of oil on the ground. I'm gonna have to take the cylinders and pistons off to clean them anyways so I will inspect all the rings then.

Where is a good source for purchasing new rings?

Probably not this w/e

Maybe someone else from down this way can grab them from me on their way up there

Call AA performance. Theres a good chance your big bore kit was from them originally. They will sell you a set of hastings rings i bet. Theyre off the I-60, west of cpp a little ways, so it might be worth the drive to go pick them up.

If someone is right there in your area and is going that would be cool, but if not i can just grab them another time. I have a good amount of work to do prior to putting it all back together so we have time before i will need them.

Thanks

Doug, definitely forgot to respond to you, my bad. Thanks for the offer but i dont really want to blast any piece that will see the inside of the engine. You can never git it ALL out, and the last thing i want is sand floating around and getting in my cam bearings , that would be a bad situation.
I am gonna take the parts to the parts washer at school and see what i can do...

Soda (baking powder) won't hurt the internals, not like sand and glass bead would.

NEVER NEVER glass bead a case(or any other part that will see fuel or oil) unless you know absolutely for sure you have every opening sealed so tight, that a gnat's fart won't get in or out.

Large hose clamps can be used for a ring compressor when reinstalling the pistons into the cylinders.

... or one of these (oil filter removal tool)

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