And more

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One side done

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I think the second side looks better. This one shows the zinc I put between everything I’m welding onto the car.

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Second side finished.

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And the rust paranoia continues. Here is the plate in the rear trunk before and after removal. I have a replacement from RD that needs to go on after cleaning the rust off.

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Cool shot! Nice work!!
I was fortunate in that my car came with this work completed so I will tuck this shot away in my files. Love it.

Ugh! That's about the only piece of metal I didn't replace on my resto. Now I'm going to have nightmares Hoping I can get enough rust converter and internal frame coating to seep into there to kill the rust.

Beautiful work on the car. Love watching the progress

Yeah, the rust worm never sleeps.

Thanks for sharing the detail pics of the reinforcements. I was starting to make the same yesterday, and it is great to see another perspective.

Looks great.. The rust worm is interesting to say the least. I plan to spray. Corrosion x in all the cavitys as that will creep into every potential spot on the car..

Its an avaition protectant.

I haven’t heard of Corrosion X; I’ll need to look into that. Thanks

It’s engine week!

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Progress

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Cool.

John at work: a little more progress. The plan is to have it running this week.

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John’s a great guy. Loved talking to him at okteenerfest last year.

Agreed, I’ve enjoyed working with John. And, while hanging around the shop he lets we help work on my engine and ask a thousand questions.

Its threads like this that make me love 914 owners and 914 world...

Cant wait to see this thing completed! Excellent work!!

That’s exciting news!
The chassis reinforcements look awesome.

Little further along today, but still waiting on the cams and springs to arrive.

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Nearly complete!

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More cool stuff came in the mail today; I can’t wait to start reassembly!

Luckily my wife doesn’t even comment when packages arrive at the house now - she knows it’s more 914 stuff.

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I need help; my wife says this often, but this time I agree.

I’ve found five painters for my GT. Three retired before “getting to it”, one just didn’t get to it, and the fifth I fear is about to retire. The fifth painter I found is very highly qualified, and would do a great job, but after 16 months of waiting my turn and hearing his retirement plans, I think my turn will never arrive.

Does anyone have recommendations? I live in southwest Virginia and am willing to travel within reason.
- What I’m looking for:
- Highly skilled in body/paint
- high attention to detail
- someone that can replace seam sealer: the car is fully stripped on the bottom, and all seam sealer was removed everywhere inside and out. Car is fully disassembled- just a shell on a rotisserie.
- someone that can verify the chassis is straight/square, and tweak if required
- someone trustworthy

Any recommendations? Please!

Sorry can’t help with a recommendation for a shop near you, but getting back to your decision on what color green to choose, have you considered Willow Green? It’s a super rare 914-6 color. George at AA has one in this color and it’s a stunning car with freaky low miles.

Here’s a pic of another 6 at Luft 6 that was painted this color.

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Then again, I always loved my 914-6 that was Metallic Green! God how I still miss that car!

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[quote name='Mitox' date='Sep 23 2018, 11:01 PM' post='2651575']
And the rust paranoia continues. Here is the plate in the rear trunk before and after removal. I have a replacement from RD that needs to go on after cleaning the rust off.


May I humbly suggest a different take on a GT trunk reinforcement ?
Your work is beautiful.......and thorough !

[quote name='rgalla9146' date='Oct 22 2019, 08:55 AM' post='2756358']
[quote name='Mitox' date='Sep 23 2018, 11:01 PM' post='2651575']
And the rust paranoia continues. Here is the plate in the rear trunk before and after removal. I have a replacement from RD that needs to go on after cleaning the rust off.


May I humbly suggest a different take on a GT trunk reinforcement ?
Your work is beautiful.......and thorough !
[/quote]


Your take looks good; I like the clean look. It’s likely stiffer also

I do like green. The metallic viper green was one of the options I considered, and your car looks great.

Why don't you put a borescope in there and take a look first?

Guess I’m lost. Why? In where?

Oh, you’re referring to the hole on the structural section? Sorry for the slow brain cells. My mind is focused on paint - going nuts trying to find someone to put a finish on my car

Well, haven’t received any suggestions on painters, but I found two close by.

The first is excellent, though like previous finds, he sold his shop and is ready to retire. Currently he wants the project, but I will need to wait another 10 months for him to start.

The second posted pics of a 914 GT job he was working on 914world Facebook. The pics look good, but I haven’t had a chance to visit his shop yet.

If anyone knows of a good painter, please let me know. I’m willing to bring the car to most areas of Virginia, NC, SC, TN, or WV. Maybe further.

I’d love to paint it myself, but the job and life doesn’t allow.

Looks fantastic ! Great work.
White is an outstanding color! ... not boring at all.
Most factory racers were white.
Avoid the difficult task of changing your color code tag.
If I may....

I must admit your car in white looks fantastic. I like the white bumpers also.
Is it ivory white, or another code?

Light Ivory L80 E The body color bumpers ? I wanted it to look like a '70-'71
no option stripper. No vinyl either.
Thank you
Don't worry, your car will look fantastic no matter what color.

So, it heads off to another paint shop this coming weekend (someone that promises not to retire before completing the paint), so I’m reinstalling the suspension so I can roll it onto a trailer.

One problem and question for the many more knowledgeable than I: I can’t get the top of the strut up to the mount. I’m sure there’s something simple, but I don’t know what to do. I’ve stretched the strut out, and used a jack to push the assembly up, but can’t it it all the way up.

Any thoughts?

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A jack usually does it for me but one time I had to extend the shaft of the strut insert, hold it with a vise grip (piece of rubber sheet to protect the shaft) and then jack it up so the could put the nut on it. Some inserts are threaded in the shaft so you can use a long bolt to pull them up.

I agree with Mark.
For now leave the dust cover off so that you can keep the shaft exposed and extended.
Worst case remove the 'dog bone' adjuster at the rear of the torsion bar
so that the lower control arm can be raised at the ball joint.
If the shaft is threaded internally at the top thread a long bolt into it and pull it up with a vise grip.

Take off the t-bar cap and lift the strut into place. Sometimes the shocks are stiff to pull out but should go. It maybe just binding on the t-bars which is not allowing you to go up as far as you need.

Thanks for the input; I’ll try each suggestion this evening. It came off, so it’s gotta go back somehow.

Evidently, a blood sacrifice is required. I tried everything until my hand slipped leaving blood on the brake shield. After wrapping my hand up, I tried again - it moved very easily into place. Maybe the strut was just stuck...

I’m trying to be sure I have addressed everything prior to paint, and can’t stop thinking about more reinforcements. MadDog has inner longs panels that look like a good idea. Is this overkill, or beneficial?

My car is a very rust free car, but this could help reduce flex I think.

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If your car is rust free I wouldn't do that mod. There is a chance you could put too much heat into the chassis while welding which will twist the chassis. Then you will be regretting it big time.

Pete

Hmm, good point. I hadn’t considered that.
Thanks for the input.

Hmm, good point. I hadn’t considered that.
Thanks for the input.

If you brace properly and Take your time, you are going to be good.

But I would set the chassis down on the middle section. Let the weight of the two ends unsupported and mount the doors and get you bracing set with proper gaps, add tap at each gap measurement, and write down your beginning measurement, and continue on from there. If you take your time, very little chance you will fleet the chassis.

Lots of them have been installed proper bracing of the opening is key.

I did my first set with a porta-power running from targa bar to footwells. Jacked it open to what I wanted and started welding. Just took my time, gaps never changed.

I coated both sides with weld through primer heavy zinc stuff, then took a drill bit made the tip flat, and cleaned each plug weld hole out. Then welded each one out becasreful not to put to much heat into the chassis.

I have seen your work, you got this.

Thanks for the suggestions; seems like a good method to move forward with the reinforcement panels. I’m going to bring to car to a frame guy to check and straighten as needed prior to adding the panels. I know it needs tweaking; a PO covered some damage rather well.

I’m also thinking about adding the front panels Mad Dog has. I already have the original sway bar plates, but this would reinforce an area damaged in the previously hidden wreck area.

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My painter has been delayed a couple weeks - good thing since I have more to do.

Just finished the oil cooler base, mount, and front cut out. Later I’ll make a bracket to hold the cooler more firmly.

I’m still not happy with the fiberglass shroud; it has huge gaps where it should fit to the car. Maybe I’ll make one, or have a moment of weakness and buy one from Mittelmotor.


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I don’t care for the glass ones either. I’m hoping to have Ben build me one in aluminum. May he can make more than one. It won’t be cheap but it won’t be Mittlemotor pricing. @MB911 .