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brant
QUOTE(Mitox @ Mar 4 2021, 08:21 PM) *

While I'm impatiently waiting on the front fender reconstruction and paint, I've been researching the many options and opinions on suspension setup.

My plan (subject to change) is to use:
- the original 19mm torsion bars in the donor '84 911 front end
- Koni 914 strut inserts KON-8641-1077 (I think they fit the 911 strut)
- Koni 914 rear shocks and spring set up from Ground Control
- no rear sway bar
- All new rubber bushings - most likely Elephant's

Remaining issues:
- What spring rate to use on the rear - 140?
- what front sway bar to use and what diameter - 21mm?

I'd appreciate any input to help finish the plan and purchase list.

Does this make sense?? What suggestion would you have for changes or for the spring rate and front sway bars??

Driving style will be "wannabe" racer, but actually mountain curves as fast as I can without wrecking or hurting my back on bumps.


-



I like big sway bars
They don’t make for a harsh ride on the highway
Yet give you a higher spring rate in the corners

My non flared street car runs a 21mm with 7 inch wheels
My non flared race car runs a 27mm. Also on 7 inch rims

The more wheel and track you have, the more leverage is impacting your spring rates So you need larger springs to maintain the effective rate
Mitox
QUOTE(brant @ Mar 5 2022, 09:44 AM) *

QUOTE(Mitox @ Mar 4 2021, 08:21 PM) *

While I'm impatiently waiting on the front fender reconstruction and paint, I've been researching the many options and opinions on suspension setup.

My plan (subject to change) is to use:
- the original 19mm torsion bars in the donor '84 911 front end
- Koni 914 strut inserts KON-8641-1077 (I think they fit the 911 strut)
- Koni 914 rear shocks and spring set up from Ground Control
- no rear sway bar
- All new rubber bushings - most likely Elephant's

Remaining issues:
- What spring rate to use on the rear - 140?
- what front sway bar to use and what diameter - 21mm?

I'd appreciate any input to help finish the plan and purchase list.

Does this make sense?? What suggestion would you have for changes or for the spring rate and front sway bars??

Driving style will be "wannabe" racer, but actually mountain curves as fast as I can without wrecking or hurting my back on bumps.


-



I like big sway bars
They don’t make for a harsh ride on the highway
Yet give you a higher spring rate in the corners

My non flared street car runs a 21mm with 7 inch wheels
My non flared race car runs a 27mm. Also on 7 inch rims

The more wheel and track you have, the more leverage is impacting your spring rates So you need larger springs to maintain the effective rate



Thanks for the input. I have flared fenders and will have 7” wheels on the front and 8” in the back. When you reference spring rates, are you addressing both the torsion bars and rear springs?
brant
As the more flare and wider your wheels. The leverage on the spreadsheet ng increases

Meaning a wide track car will need heavier spring rates as the extra leverage will reduce the effective spring rate

So you can bump your spring rates
Or gain a portion of that back with bigger sea bars

Mitox
Cleaning up the garage this evening to see what I can get rid of. I have these Boge inserts from my struts; they came from an ‘84 that was wrecked a few weeks before I bought the front end.

Do they go in the scrap pile, or are they usable by someone - anyone?


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Mitox
Transmission plans:

Step 1: half way cleaned, but there’s a crusty grease/oil still there
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Mitox
Transmission plans:

Step 2: Tear down - my first time ever. Good thing Dr. Evil knows how it all goes back together.

Before I bring it to Evilwerks the case needs a serious cleaning; not sure of the best method for that yet. Then, after it’s clean, it gets a coating of cerakote; thinking about Satin Nickel C-124

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Mitox
pray.gif

It’s beautiful; just received my pedal cluster after a full rebuild by Bruce.

Awesome work!

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Mitox
Used the weekend to clean the transmission case more. Here’s a couple pics after two cleanings, each one soaking in oven cleaner overnight

Still need to remove the crusty oxidation - looks like blasting may be the way to go.

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Cairo94507
I have seen I think it is called Vapor Hone blasting, (if memory serves) and it leaves the case like the day it was made. No damage to anything and beautiful results. beerchug.gif
Mitox
QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Apr 25 2022, 10:37 AM) *

I have seen I think it is called Vapor Hone blasting, (if memory serves) and it leaves the case like the day it was made. No damage to anything and beautiful results. beerchug.gif



I tried glass beads on a small area yesterday; it cleaned up well, but leaves the pits from the corrosion. I’d like to find someone to vaporblast it, but so far the closest place I can find is 5 hours away. There are a few disadvantages to living in the SW Virginia mountains - but not many.
mepstein
I've vapor blasted a lot of parts. I usually glass bead blast to clean it and then vapor blast to get the smooth finish. Most mag parts on the east coast will be pitted and there's really nothing to do about it. A thick powder coat or epoxy will smooth it over some. Vapor blasting produces a finish similar to shot peening or tumbling and does help bare metal stay cleaner than bead blasting alone.

We should have a vapor blast machine soon for our new parts business. "The Nine Store"
Mitox
QUOTE(mepstein @ Apr 25 2022, 01:06 PM) *

I've vapor blasted a lot of parts. I usually glass bead blast to clean it and then vapor blast to get the smooth finish. Most mag parts on the east coast will be pitted and there's really nothing to do about it. A thick powder coat or epoxy will smooth it over some. Vapor blasting produces a finish similar to shot peening or tumbling and does help bare metal stay cleaner than bead blasting alone.

We should have a vapor blast machine soon for our new parts business. "The Nine Store"



I definitely like the idea of the shot peening finish. I think it would “smooth” some of the rough edges on the pitted areas. I’ve ordered some Cerakote to make it look nice, and it calls for a 100 grit surface to ensure adhesion - unfortunately I may need to stick with dry blasting.
Mitox
914Rubber delivery today - rebuilt and Cerakoted steering rack

Looks great, but due to the grease I’ll keep it in the bag until the car is ready.

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Mitox
FedEx delivered my modified struts today. Elephant raised the spindles and added all the bits.

If I could only get my car back….

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Mitox
Another six months and my 914 is on the top of the list at the shop working the body. We’ve nearly completed fixing previous poor workmanship and the hidden damage in the front. The passenger side inner fender is replaced, and the body is getting a full strip. During the process I’m adding some reinforcements purchased from Maddogs.

Hmmm - now I need to finalize my color choice!


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Mitox
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Mitox
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Mitox
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Mitox
Here are my current four color choices - subject to change at any moment. I think I need more 914s so I can have more than one color.

Ravenna Green
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Gran Prix White and black
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White with a vivid green
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Graphite Blue with graphics (probably in bright blue)
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Mitox
Progress at last. E coated and urethane seam sealer.

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Mitox
Seam sealer

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Mitox
And - bottom coated with Raptor

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Mitox
Adding a couple pics of the fender bodywork.

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tygaboy
Getting there... and looking REALLY good! Hang in there. It'll be SOOOOO worth it when you're driving it. smilie_pokal.gif aktion035.gif driving.gif
flyer86d
Wow just Wow! It looks like a new car!

Charlie
Justinp71
Here are some paint inspirations-


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Mitox
Latest pic. Primed the interior and started the seam sealing. On the inside I’m using the urethane and then trying to duplicate the factory style sealer on top. This will be done in the front and rear trunk also.

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Mitox
Just noticed I forgot to add a few pics of the body work. So, it’s out of order, but I wanted to be sure they are here.

The fenders were stripped again due to poor work at a previous shop. Also decided to add a thin layer of glass applied over the weld line to ensure the line doesn’t transfer through the finish paint.

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Mitox
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Nate W
Love that Graphite blue paint scheme, your car looks great
DRPHIL914
QUOTE(Mitox @ Jun 29 2023, 06:29 PM) *

And - bottom coated with Raptor

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@Mitox
what did you use to apply the Raptor to the outer floor pan?

Phil
Mitox
QUOTE(DRPHIL914 @ Jun 30 2023, 11:25 AM) *

QUOTE(Mitox @ Jun 29 2023, 06:29 PM) *

And - bottom coated with Raptor

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@Mitox
what did you use to apply the Raptor to the outer floor pan?

Phil



Late answer, sorry, just saw the question. I believe he used the simple sprayer typically used with the Bed liner kits.
Mitox
More seam sealer pics. The inside and the trunks have been primed, and we are finishing the seam sealer. Using urethane sealer first with a brush finish, then following up with sprayed sealer in an attempt to match the original look.

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Mitox
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Mitox
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Mitox
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Mitox
I have a question for anyone that can help. There is a seem on the back side of the sail panels where a small permanently mounted section of the engine cover is. Does it have sealer at the locations shown in this pick? (Not my car, but it shows the area well)

It’s been a few years since I stripped everything, so I can’t recall.

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rgalla9146

No sealer in the long seam from the factory.
The area close to the glass is space for the rubber seal
Both are difficult to 'flood' with paint.
I've never seen rust jump out of that area in spite of how vulnerable it looks.
Mitox
QUOTE(rgalla9146 @ Jul 14 2023, 07:12 AM) *

No sealer in the long seam from the factory.
The area close to the glass is space for the rubber seal
Both are difficult to 'flood' with paint.
I've never seen rust jump out of that area in spite of how vulnerable it looks.



Thanks for the info. My vague memory is the same for the seam n the side , however I think I remember digging out seam sealer from the section just under the window. I’ve also looked through the part diagrams and can’t find a seal that would be in this location.

Does anyone have a rubber seal in the section under the window?
mate914
what are the brackets on the left and right of the trunk lock?

Matt

QUOTE(Mitox @ Jul 13 2023, 11:09 PM) *

rgalla9146
QUOTE(mate914 @ Jul 14 2023, 08:12 PM) *

what are the brackets on the left and right of the trunk lock?

Matt

QUOTE(Mitox @ Jul 13 2023, 11:09 PM) *



standard on '75-'76 chassis
probably better to remove on a GT replica
Mitox
QUOTE(mate914 @ Jul 14 2023, 08:12 PM) *

what are the brackets on the left and right of the trunk lock?

Matt

QUOTE(Mitox @ Jul 13 2023, 11:09 PM) *



I think they are just stiffeners for the rear panel -
sixnotfour
Just go with the last "GT"
Mitox
It actually has some paint on it!

Pics are rotated 90 degrees for some reason

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Mitox
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East coaster
Nice! Gratifying to see some color on it, isn’t it….
Mitox
A few months later and it’s starting to look like a 914 again.

We’re working on the metal flared rockers, the front bumper cut-out, and the front valance: pics to come.

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Mitox
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Cairo94507
Really coming along nicely. beerchug.gif
Shivers
QUOTE(Mitox @ Jul 13 2023, 07:40 PM) *

I have a question for anyone that can help. There is a seem on the back side of the sail panels where a small permanently mounted section of the engine cover is. Does it have sealer at the locations shown in this pick? (Not my car, but it shows the area well)

It’s been a few years since I stripped everything, so I can’t recall.

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