Mitox
Mar 2 2020, 07:35 PM
QUOTE(mepstein @ Mar 2 2020, 08:26 PM)
QUOTE(Mitox @ Mar 2 2020, 08:17 PM)
My painter has been delayed a couple weeks - good thing since I have more to do.
Just finished the oil cooler base, mount, and front cut out. Later I’ll make a bracket to hold the cooler more firmly.
I’m still not happy with the fiberglass shroud; it has huge gaps where it should fit to the car. Maybe I’ll make one, or have a moment of weakness and buy one from Mittelmotor.
I don’t care for the glass ones either. I’m hoping to have Ben build me one in aluminum. May he can make more than one. It won’t be cheap but it won’t be Mittlemotor pricing.
@MB911 .
Ben’s work is excellent; I’ve sent him a lot of money so far. If he does make a shroud, he’ll likely get some more of it.
Mitox
Mar 2 2020, 07:40 PM
And parts from Mad Dog arrived today. I decided to go ahead with the longitudinal reinforcement, but I’ll wait until the frame guy checks the chassis.
These parts are well made also
Click to view attachment Click to view attachment
Mitox
Mar 11 2020, 08:16 AM
The night before going off to paint.
[attachmentid=73401
Mitox
Mar 11 2020, 09:38 PM
And it’s on the way to the painter. Now I’ll have a chance to get the 911 suspension and trailing arms ready.
Click to view attachment
Root_Werks
Mar 12 2020, 04:19 PM
The inner Long kit makes a big difference. Project looks great!
Mitox
Mar 12 2020, 06:10 PM
QUOTE(Root_Werks @ Mar 12 2020, 06:19 PM)
The inner Long kit makes a big difference. Project looks great!
Thanks, can't wait to get it back to start reassembly.
Mitox
Mar 13 2020, 09:22 PM
My moment of weakness slipped in this evening. The 914 is in body work, and I "need" the oil cooler duct. Well, you can save a few hundred buying direct from Mittelmotor, but the shipment takes a couple months.
Click to view attachment
Mitox
Mar 13 2020, 09:54 PM
Guess I’ll sell this fiberglass duct as soon as I find a box for it. I was disappointed with the fit, but it would be fine if a a seal is added, or with a little additional material on the leading edge.
Click to view attachment Click to view attachment
Mitox
Mar 24 2020, 11:55 AM
I’m wanted to have my chassis checked prior to bodywork and paint due to the PO hiding damage on the car, but I wasn’t expecting the answer I got back.
Click to view attachment He’s telling me that he may be able to straighten the chassis after removing the passenger fender and front panel that was replaced by PO, but that he highly recommends removing and replacing the inner fender, fender, and front panel along with a little more surrounding metal.
This sucks!!- guess I need to find a good passenger side front section.
mepstein
Mar 24 2020, 12:17 PM
So once you have some time to figure out what you need, give me a call. I have a parts car that should have the needed metal. Some parts on it are pretty rusty but some appear to be good. No charge if you come up and take what you need. Mark
Mitox
Mar 24 2020, 12:52 PM
QUOTE(mepstein @ Mar 24 2020, 02:17 PM)
So once you have some time to figure out what you need, give me a call. I have a parts car that should have the needed metal. Some parts on it are pretty rusty but some appear to be good. No charge if you come up and take what you need. Mark
Thanks Mark, I really appreciate it. I’m going to go over the issue this weekend to see how to move forward.
jaredmcginness
Mar 24 2020, 01:05 PM
This project is seriously so cool! So much inspiration. Maybe the next time around.
Cairo94507
Mar 24 2020, 02:11 PM
@Mitix - I feel your pain, having been there myself. Stay positive and think how nice it will be when it is done correctly and straight.
TravisNeff
Mar 24 2020, 03:07 PM
aye aye aye! That has got to sting getting that news.
Mitox
Mar 24 2020, 07:48 PM
QUOTE(jaredmcginness @ Mar 24 2020, 03:05 PM)
This project is seriously so cool! So much inspiration. Maybe the next time around.
Thanks; we’ll figure it out - while I silently curse someone
Mitox
Mar 24 2020, 07:51 PM
QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Mar 24 2020, 04:11 PM)
@Mitix - I feel your pain, having been there myself. Stay positive and think how nice it will be when it is done correctly and straight.
Yeah, I’ve read your thread. You’ve had some seriously “enjoyable” experiences yourself. Even so, I still want to get it fixed so I can stare at it knowing it’s right.
Mitox
Mar 24 2020, 08:58 PM
My BDay & Christmas present to myself arrived yesterday. It took a little more than one week to ship from Mittelmotor in Germany, go through customs and arrive at my house - good job UPS. My wife is in shock though.
Looks great: it’s made well and powder coated nicely.
Click to view attachment
rgalla9146
Mar 25 2020, 08:03 AM
QUOTE(Mitox @ Mar 24 2020, 10:58 PM)
My BDay & Christmas present to myself arrived yesterday. It took a little more than one week to ship from Mittelmotor in Germany, go through customs and arrive at my house - good job UPS. My wife is in shock though.
Looks great: it’s made well and powder coated nicely.
Click to view attachment Wow. That requires committment.
Biggles
Mar 25 2020, 09:38 AM
Wish I had known. I've got one from mittlemotor I never fitted ! Anybody needs a proper metal one let me know. I'll post in classifieds too.
QUOTE(Mitox @ Mar 14 2020, 03:22 AM)
My moment of weakness slipped in this evening. The 914 is in body work, and I "need" the oil cooler duct. Well, you can save a few hundred buying direct from Mittelmotor, but the shipment takes a couple months.
Click to view attachment
Mitox
Mar 25 2020, 09:58 AM
QUOTE(Biggles @ Mar 25 2020, 11:38 AM)
Wish I had known. I've got one from mittlemotor I never fitted ! Anybody needs a proper metal one let me know. I'll post in classifieds too.
QUOTE(Mitox @ Mar 14 2020, 03:22 AM)
My moment of weakness slipped in this evening. The 914 is in body work, and I "need" the oil cooler duct. Well, you can save a few hundred buying direct from Mittelmotor, but the shipment takes a couple months.
Click to view attachmentI wish I had remembered. You let me know a year ago, but I didn’t remember. Sorry about that.
Edit: My memory Off again - found it was it was two years ago
Mitox
Mar 30 2020, 09:11 PM
QUOTE(Mitox @ Mar 24 2020, 01:55 PM)
I’m wanted to have my chassis checked prior to bodywork and paint due to the PO hiding damage on the car, but I wasn’t expecting the answer I got back.
Click to view attachment He’s telling me that he may be able to straighten the chassis after removing the passenger fender and front panel that was replaced by PO, but that he highly recommends removing and replacing the inner fender, fender, and front panel along with a little more surrounding metal.
This sucks!!- guess I need to find a good passenger side front section.
Talked with the guy that will straighten the car out, and it looks like I need to find a good passenger inner fender and front panel at a minimum. The hard part is getting these parts separated from everything else attached; it maybe best to find a wrecked or parts car that has a good front end.
With the virus issue it will be difficult to travel, so if anyone knows of or has parts in Virginia, please let me know.
Mitox
May 30 2020, 03:26 PM
The body is now in the shop where it will be straitened out and painted. It’s enough to drive me mad, but eventually it will be back on the road.
Anyway, while the body is gone, I’ve begun working on the suspension. While making space in the garage, I decided to disassemble the old front suspension to make it easier to move and sell.
The torsion rods are surprisingly clean. Does anyone know if these are original or aftermarkets?
Click to view attachment
Matty900
May 30 2020, 03:50 PM
Just dropped my GT tribute off at the body shop for paint yesterday too. You are making great progress. Once the car comes back all pretty it's great motivation to keep going. Start getting the things ready that will be going back in first and building up a parts pile of restored parts your going to have a lot of fun soon
mepstein
May 30 2020, 04:48 PM
QUOTE(Mitox @ May 30 2020, 05:26 PM)
The body is now in the shop where it will be straitened out and painted. It’s enough to drive me mad, but eventually it will be back on the road.
Anyway, while the body is gone, I’ve begun working on the suspension. While making space in the garage, I decided to disassemble the old front suspension to make it easier to move and sell.
The torsion rods are surprisingly clean. Does anyone know if these are original or aftermarkets?
Click to view attachmentmeasure them and see what marks are on the end.
Mitox
May 30 2020, 09:02 PM
The cross section seems to be 18mm. One end of each is as shown in the photo below, and the other end has either R or L . Wonder why the side is identified unless the metal grain is specific to the side in some way.
Click to view attachment
mepstein
May 30 2020, 09:14 PM
I'm no expert but they look stock to me. The markings face out and the rods should be put back on the same side as they came out. From what I understand, they are side specific once used so they mark them so when they are removed, they get put back in the correct side.
Mitox
May 30 2020, 09:20 PM
QUOTE(mepstein @ May 30 2020, 11:14 PM)
I'm no expert but they look stock to me. The markings face out and the rods should be put back on the same side as they came out. From what I understand, they are side specific once used so they mark them so when they are removed, they get put back in the correct side.
Yeah, I think they are stock. One marking kinda looks like a VW mark, but don’t know.
As for L/R, your statement “side specific once used” makes a lot of sense.
raynekat
May 30 2020, 09:23 PM
The torsion bars are not side specific before they are used.
Only after they have been used are they side specific....they get used to twisting a certain direction.
If you twist them the opposite direction, they can break.
They are label L and R from the factory (and aftermarket for that matter) to keep it simple in knowing which bar came from which side of the car.
And thus which side to return each bar to.
You could just as easily without problems put a new L bar in the right side and visa versa with the R bar.
The problem is that someone down the line may not remember (or know) that the sides have been switched and then you potentially have problems with the bars breaking if they are put in the opposite side of the car.
Clear as mud I'm sure.....
Mitox
May 30 2020, 09:49 PM
QUOTE(raynekat @ May 30 2020, 11:23 PM)
The torsion bars are not side specific before they are used.
Only after they have been used are they side specific....they get used to twisting a certain direction.
If you twist them the opposite direction, they can break.
They are label L and R from the factory (and aftermarket for that matter) to keep it simple in knowing which bar came from which side of the car.
And thus which side to return each bar to.
You could just as easily without problems put a new L bar in the right side and visa versa with the R bar.
The problem is that someone down the line may not remember (or know) that the sides have been switched and then you potentially have problems with the bars breaking if they are put in the opposite side of the car.
Clear as mud I'm sure.....
Thanks, it does make sense once I exercised the second brain cell. It was hard to get that one going though. Reversing the twist on a bar that has been moving one direction for some time would likely induce stress fractures. The factory was smart to label them.
Mitox
Jul 15 2020, 08:57 PM
Moving forward now. The hidden damage on the front drivers side is being cut out and replaced. A PO evidently smashed the passenger front side, removed some of the smashed pieces, “straightened” the inner wheel well, then replaced the fender and front panel afterward. All wrinkles were conveniently hidden with filler.
Well, to fix it, we are reversing the process and will replace the inner wheel well also. All will be perfect when completed.
Some in process pics below; just started removing the inner.
Click to view attachment Click to view attachment
gms
Jul 18 2020, 03:02 PM
Make sure the stamped VIN in the inner wheel house is not removed
Mitox
Jul 19 2020, 07:51 PM
QUOTE(gms @ Jul 18 2020, 05:02 PM)
Make sure the stamped VIN in the inner wheel house is not removed
Thanks for the reminder. It will be retained, but I had let it slip from the plans. Getting too excited about progress I guess.
Mitox
Jul 19 2020, 09:24 PM
While the body is being reworked and painted, my primary task is to get the suspension ready to bolt back on. I’ve started on the trailing arms.
Welded on the reinforcement and prepped it to accept the 911 E-brake system. I think I want to keep the shield, but I’ll need to move one mount that interferes with the E-brakes and will need to modify the shield for the relocated mount.
I’ve ordered the E-brake cable kit from Chris Foley last month, so waiting on that to see how everything fits up.
Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment Click to view attachment
Mitox
Oct 17 2020, 07:03 PM
And a few months later - the inner fender is fully removed. There’s a little surface rust in the bottom of enclosed areas, but but nothing worrisome.
Click to view attachment
Mitox
Oct 17 2020, 07:09 PM
Meanwhile, back in the garage ...
I’ve gathered the remaining parts needed to complete the trailing arms (except for new rubber bushings). Trial fit is in work to ensure everything works before final welds and paint. The high tech wooden bearing is helping out nicely.
Click to view attachment
Mitox
Mar 4 2021, 09:21 PM
While I'm impatiently waiting on the front fender reconstruction and paint, I've been researching the many options and opinions on suspension setup.
My plan (subject to change) is to use:
- the original 19mm torsion bars in the donor '84 911 front end
- Koni 914 strut inserts KON-8641-1077 (I think they fit the 911 strut)
- Koni 914 rear shocks and spring set up from Ground Control
- no rear sway bar
- All new rubber bushings - most likely Elephant's
Remaining issues:
- What spring rate to use on the rear - 140?
- what front sway bar to use and what diameter - 21mm?
I'd appreciate any input to help finish the plan and purchase list.
Does this make sense?? What suggestion would you have for changes or for the spring rate and front sway bars??
Driving style will be "wannabe" racer, but actually mountain curves as fast as I can without wrecking or hurting my back on bumps.
-
CptTripps
Mar 5 2021, 12:18 PM
I've no advise to offer on the last questions, but just wanted to comment that this is a damn nice build. Well done, sir.
mepstein
Mar 5 2021, 12:44 PM
A 21mm front sway bar is a BIG bar on a 914 and will increase the stiff feel of the 911 torsion bars that are for a 2700 lb 911. I'm not saying it's wrong and I certainly don't have the education in suspension like smarter people here but... It's going to be pretty stiff on the road.
Retroracer
Mar 5 2021, 01:06 PM
You'll probably get too many answers with too many variables to your question, but I'll chime in, just to add to the melange:
So FWIW, my set up - on a GT /6 clone with mostly fiberglass everything, but roll cage & much stiffening welded in - is as follows:
- stock /4 torsion bars front, Sachs inserts in 911 struts
- stock /4 springs rear, Bilsteins height adjustable
- Weltmeister 21mm front sway bar, H&H adjustable arms
- no rear sway bar
- Falken street tires on 7Jx15 F, 8Jx15 R
I was concerned with Marks point about the front sway bar being too much, but the softest setting on the H&H arms (which are longer than the stock ones) works well for spirited canyon driving, and was not hideous on a recent track day either. CA freeway driving is pretty comfortable (with ear protectors in...!).
My car is pretty lightweight so the stock springs cope OK; if I was auto crossing then I'd think about stiffer springs and more expensive shocks, as well as dialing up the front sway bar. Also, $$ investment on the sticky tires du jour.
Again, FWIW,
- Tony
Mitox
Mar 5 2021, 07:35 PM
QUOTE(CptTripps @ Mar 5 2021, 01:18 PM)
I've no advise to offer on the last questions, but just wanted to comment that this is a damn nice build. Well done, sir.
Thanks - hopefully, the reassembly begins soon.
Mitox
Mar 5 2021, 10:32 PM
QUOTE(mepstein @ Mar 5 2021, 01:44 PM)
A 21mm front sway bar is a BIG bar on a 914 and will increase the stiff feel of the 911 torsion bars that are for a 2700 lb 911. I'm not saying it's wrong and I certainly don't have the education in suspension like smarter people here but... It's going to be pretty stiff on the road.
After reading more - I think I agree 21mm may be too large. It looks like Tarett has a 19.3mm sway bar, and maybe I could go with the original sway bar but I don't know what size that is.
Mitox
Mar 5 2021, 10:42 PM
QUOTE(Mitox @ Mar 4 2021, 10:21 PM)
While I'm impatiently waiting on the front fender reconstruction and paint, I've been researching the many options and opinions on suspension setup.
My plan (subject to change) is to use:
- the original 19mm torsion bars in the donor '84 911 front end
- Koni 914 strut inserts KON-8641-1077 (I think they fit the 911 strut)
- Koni 914 rear shocks and spring set up from Ground Control
- no rear sway bar
- All new rubber bushings - most likely Elephant's
Remaining issues:
- What spring rate to use on the rear - 140?
- what front sway bar to use and what diameter - 21mm?
I'd appreciate any input to help finish the plan and purchase list.
Does this make sense?? What suggestion would you have for changes or for the spring rate and front sway bars??
Driving style will be "wannabe" racer, but actually mountain curves as fast as I can without wrecking or hurting my back on bumps.
Modifications to my thoughts/plans:
- It seems that I should start with a smaller front sway bar: the smallest I can find is 19.3mm from Tarett, or I could use an original but I don't know how large it is.
- As for the spring rate: 100# - 140# seems like a start. The 3.2 is adding weight to the rear.
- The 911 front suspension I'm using has the 19mm torsion bars; I could keep the control arms from the 914 suspension and use 17mm units, but the next option step up is still 19mm.
Mitox
Apr 30 2021, 09:19 PM
Another example of Ben’s artwork to add to my collection arrived a few days ago.
Can’t wait to listen to it.
Click to view attachment
Mitox
Apr 30 2021, 09:23 PM
Also had an exciting morning. I drove to Winston Salem to pick up a load of parts I had cad plated. Beautiful gold piece-parts!
Click to view attachment
dlee6204
May 1 2021, 06:23 AM
QUOTE(Mitox @ Apr 30 2021, 11:23 PM)
Also had an exciting morning. I drove to Winston Salem to pick up a load of parts I had cad plated. Beautiful gold piece-parts!
Click to view attachmentLooks good! Who in Winston did you use for plating?
Mitox
May 1 2021, 06:41 AM
Frank at Stratford Metal Finishing took car of me. He rebagged everything, and didn’t lose anything.
Mitox
Mar 4 2022, 11:26 PM
It’s been a while, but getting back into the project. My car’s bodywork and paint is supposedly going to move along with some speed now that others ahead of me are nearly all complete. This truck is the only thing in my way.
I know, it’s not a 914, but it’s cool -
You can see a bit of my 914 on the right side of the pic
Click to view attachment
Mitox
Mar 4 2022, 11:35 PM
I’ve started stripping done the Carrera front end I bought, and am considering sending a few parts out.
I have Boge struts, and I’m thinking about sending them to Elephant to have the spindles raised 19mm (the max they can raise them).
Still can’t decide between Bilstein and Koni inserts.
Click to view attachment
Mitox
Mar 4 2022, 11:40 PM
When I finally got the ball joints out, I found some damage on the drivers side control arm. It looks like the end has been shoved back a little off centering the ball joint location and ovaling the whole. Seems odd, no damage noticeable any where else.
Click to view attachment
mepstein
Mar 5 2022, 08:16 AM
QUOTE(Mitox @ Apr 30 2021, 10:23 PM)
Also had an exciting morning. I drove to Winston Salem to pick up a load of parts I had cad plated. Beautiful gold piece-parts!
Click to view attachmentIt’s always fun to get back jewelry for your car.
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