interesting method Jeff

i think i'll stick to the engine plate method tho
but to be extra safe,
i'm going to place wood blocks under the engine and tranny
while i loosen the engine and tranny bolts
just in case the floor jack would fail

then remove the blocks one by one as i lower the engine/tranny
according to this forum and the plate manufactures
the engine/tranny should be balanced on the lift plate

Drex

received the two important tools i'll
need to drop the engine

plan to do this today or tomorrow

it is 10 F in iowa this morning!

Drex

Good day to recharge your battery and plan the attack

Took out these 8 bolts

What is the best way to separate
the axles from the transmission?

Thanks

Drex

Give the hub a few gentle taps to seperate. There is a gasket in there, often the PO has applied some sealant in there making it "seal better". Remove the large (36mm) nut at the wheel side and remove the axle shaft.

Engine is out of the parts car!!

Used a flat screwdriver with masking tape
and gently tapped around the CV/transmission joint
until it slowly split apart
Took a lot of patience

Had to use a grinding wheel on three of the four transmission mounting bolts
The top nuts were completely inaccessible

Also, the engine mounting bolts consisted of
recessed Allen bolts with a large nut on top
I was able to get a 17 mm socket on the top nut
and an Allen wrench, with a long extension, below
One came right off, the other broke the bolt off

If the Allen head would have stripped out
I'd would have had to cut the mounting bracket
Fortunately, this wasn't necessary

Drex

The HELL HOLE

My plan is to completely strip this parts car
and see if anyone would want to buy the body
for sheetmetal

Drex

Drex

Allen engine mounting bolts

Drex

So having done this - would you agree the Tangerine engine cradle is worth it? If answer is no, try putting it back in without. That might give an alternate view.

Hopefully you don’t regret it. I love mine and I’m just ashamed I didn’t invent it.

Hello Superhawk!

Yes, I was glad I spent the $ for the tangerine engine lift plate
The tough part of dropping the engine were the mounting bolts

I was extremely nervous about safety
some used wood blocks under the engine
while removing the engine mounting bolts

But the plate worked like a charm and the
engine came right down

Drex

The main WWII jeep site is

https://forums.g503.com/

They have a Web site for pictures
to transfer into your threads

http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/index.php

Does 914World have a similar web site?
Or which site do most of you use?

thanks

Drex

You can also upload photos straight from your photos folder. It is a little confusing, but if yo look just below the emojis, there is a "file attachments" button that will let you upload from the photos folder on your computer of phone.

Hi Krazy
I tried to do this
but apparently there is not
enough file space
The photos are greater than the global limit

Drex

When I loaded up the 914
Was in Stockport, IA

The Clark barn was featured in
the Iowa most beautiful Barn contest

Drex

Am currently removing the pedal cluster from the parts 914
There appears to be 4 bolts holding the mounting bracket.
The back to bolts are straight forward
But how are the front two bolts attached to the frame?
Thanks

Drex

There are 2 nuts accessed from the underside also holding the master cylinder.

Do you have a Haynes or Clymer manual. very informative

yes, i have both

there appears to be a very heavy plate
underneath the car that covers up access to these nuts

i have a 1973 Clymer manual
but could not find anywhere how to remove the pedal assb as a whole

Drex

well...I think i figured it out...

remove the bottom access panel
this exposes the master brake cylinder
and think the bolts that hold it on
are the same two bolts that hold down
the front of the pedal assb mount

does this sound right?

thanks

Drex

Exactly, and you saw the plate is lightweight 18 or 20 gauge like everywhere. I first thought this access panel was a skid plate.

This was just left of the glove box on the panel
What was it used for?

Drex

1975 Ford Pinto, rear door

whoo...
i'm not following you?

Drex

Glovebox lock.
I think you would be well served to get a Haynes manual.

That makes sense
I have a lot of pictures of 1971 interiors
and none of them had this lock

I also tried to search for 'dash lock'
and could not find a specific answer
I did get hits on a few threads
but they were double digits long

I almost have the parts car disassembled
so will see about getting the 'better' 914 running

....I'll try not to ask dumb questions

Drex

All of us were beginner's at some point and there are no dumb questions, the members here have been very helpful to me and will continue to assist as we are able. What decent parts are salvageable from the parts car?

Here are the parts manual from Porsche:

Porsche 914 PET

Here is the service manual:

Porsche 914 Service Manuals

Pretty much done topside
so pulled parts car outside with my bobcat
flipped it over and pushed it back into the garage

Does anyone see anything, other than the rims,
that would be salvageable?

Am about ready to take the remaining body to the dump

Thanks

Drex

Those appear to be original steel wheels that might have some service left if they are in salvageable condition.

Trailing arms, steering rack out? Some might need them.

Brake Caliper cores

Frunk floor.

The rear trunk floor pan was pretty rusty on the rear edges
I don't think it can be saved

The car is just about ready to break in half!!

I have a lot of parts I have taken off.
Do I dare post a picture of them on this thread
or would this inappropriate?

Thanks

Drex

Mention the parts Dave, and then list them on the classified section.

Boy, there is NO snow left is there?

Assume that car lived it's life in Iowa and paid the price!

Can you make sure to add your parts car to the VIN database? Alive or dead, we track them here.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=membervins

Will do
Haven't located the engine number yet

Drex

Rear trunks typically see rust from water damage.

Posts #75 and #127 show, from here, that the floor of the front trunk, also called “frunk”, looks to be in one piece. Many are chopped up from having A/C systems installed or lumpy from floor jack usage. The metal may not be perfect but looks salvageable, again from this perspective. New is available but if this one is going to the scrap yard someone here may be able to use it.

I might have another piece in mind if you are going to cut it up. LMK.

Regards,
Sean

Sent you a PM. Glad you found that parts car.

Click to view attachment

Is this where the SN is supposed to located?
Is it there but I can't see it?
I think I saw somewhere
where it is located on the flat where the spark plugs are

Drex

Did you pull the main chassis harness out and did it come out in one piece?

I have not saved the harness yet
Are they worth saving?

Also, here is the rear trunk floor
Look good enough to save?

The trailing arms look awful rusty
Is this just appearance and would
they sand blast and powder coat ok?

Finally, I'm having a heck of a time
getting to, and removing the rear
brake calipers

thanks

Drex

If the harness wiring is not cut or hardened it can be reused. Even if it has a few cut wires it can be repaired. If you remove, no need to cut anything especially where pulling it through the engine bay firewall, that cut destroys the harness. You will need to just remove the plastic connector housings at the relay board 14 pin connector, fuel pump connector and headlight connectors. Pretty simple, just compress the wire terminal tangs and pull the terminals out of the housings.

You have a 71 - which version of the chassis harness do you have early or late? The difference is best seen at the steering column connector - is it 12 pin or 14 pin?

On parts car:

window SN is 41712915293

front door jam is 2899508

paint code is L 60 E (so Irish Green)

rear door jam is 07/71 4712915293 very hard to read (I suspect it is the same as the window SN)

engine number not found yet

Drex

Unless they're bent the rear trailing arms would probably clean up ok with blasting etc. With new bushings and bearing I'd bet they would be usable.

Jeff, is this the pin connector your talking about
I only count 13 pins

Drex

Thanks Drex! You have the late-1971 chassis harness, lucky you! The connector is a 14 pin connector but it correctly has only 13 pins. Willl PM you.

The engine number should be just in front of the oil fill "tower." Its on the flat, horizontal lip at the front of the "tower's" base.

Maybe:
- Muffler heat shield that we see in your upside down picture if in salvageable state.
- Center section of the firewall might be useful to someone with a six conversion to make an access panel.

Edit:
I know I could use this fender bracket

Click to view attachment

Removed the complete harness today
It's a little beat up in areas
but mostly intact

Pushed a lot of wires thru tiny holes!!

Drex

Well...
The remaining carcass of my parts 914
Went to the dump today
400 lbs

Ready to start in on the real project

Drex