Willow green is paint code L63K. They should be able to find that color formula.

Here are some color cards from a local hardware store

D Rex

battery mount out
thin area cut out of hell hole bottom
what's left is surface rust

will clean up rust
weld patch in bottom
and paint...when i get it matched

also took engine rubbers out

D rex

I have read several threads on material to seal seams
Is there a consensus on which is the best
before priming and painting?

Thanks

D Rex

I've seen Wurth products being highly recommended here, but I don't have experience with them myself.

I use Wurth products, got mine from AA (George) and Pelican Parts. Brushable Seam Sealer and
The Wurth High-Build Underseal. Very happy with them. If anyone needs a can of seam Sealer,
Hit me up as I will never use what I have. Free! if someone stops by my shop in Inglewood CA. I do not want to dick with shipping it.

Bob B

thanks Burton73
i'll have to order some
as i don't think i'll be out to California for some time
its a long ways from Iowa

i take it that it is applied on bare metal
and then you prime and paint

also, i had our local body shop guy
match the paint off my engine lid
and this is what he came up with
it is a smidge darker
but he that it would compensate for any fading of the original color
i think it looks pretty good

D Rex

Am going to buy a new battery tray and mount
Who should I buy them from?

Also, want to purchase a complete rubber kit
From who?

Thanks

D rex

would this be okay for my engine?

or should i buy one from another vendor?

d rex

https://www.amazon.com/QSC-Porsche-Holding-...86239&psc=1

you do not need the heavy one for a type 4 eng.

You can save some money and get one of these. That is what we did this year for our 2270

Best Bob B

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

I take it that one can take out the flywheel etc. ok?

Dave

Yes we had no trouble. You can remove all of it. You just need the lock for the flywheel not much at and VW supplier

Best Bob B

You can buy bits here and there (Auto Atlanta, 914 Rubber, Pelican Parts, and more), but 914 Rubber has all of what you are asking about. As far as I know, they are the only place offering complete rubber kits. I'm not sure if their main kit includes absolutely everything, but it is a substantial savings over buying it piecemeal. A top notch business, IMHO.

Pelican Parts has lots of 914 parts, including the battery shelf and support, and will give you a one time 10% new customer discount. They also offer a 10% off once a year discount as a a PCA member, which will likely more than offset the annual membership fee.

I bought my battery tray and support when I was at Restoration Design in Canada last summer. They produce a lot of stuff (as in sheet metal stampings) in-house. Their dedication is proven by their ability to create tooling to replicate an entire Speedster chassis and body! Plus, they use a more rust resistant steel. However, the two parts you mentioned that I bought from them were sourced from a European manufacturer. I suspect the other vendors get their from the same place.

Auto Atlanta has a paper catalog should you get tired of looking at a computer screen. Prices are likely out of date but it has diagrams and numbers, and I’m sure George looked it over closely when it was put together so it should be accurate. I learned a lot from their 700 914 Tech Tips book. Should you find yourself near Atlanta, stop there, and at The Porsche Experience.

My *favorite* place for mechanical parts is 914 LTD in Peoria, IL, because they are nearby (for me), have tons of used parts, unequaled knowledge, and they have answers for all questions. They are just fabulous.

As far as engine holder, this one is highly regarded, but the place is temporarily shut down due to a health issue. I am awaiting their return!
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=606308
They make 3,4, and 5 arm versions, are well made in the USA, and still cost less than others. They fit on a 2 3/8” inside diameter HF engine stand tube, and supposedly other, usually cheap, stands. From what I have read, the three arm should be plenty for a 914.

Tom

here is my progress

waiting for the engine mount bracket to arrive
need to remove muffler system
the bolts are hard to get to with the engine upright
and i'm worried about breaking bolts off in he head
then fan shroud
and eventually the heads to have them reworked

will finish the hell hole while heads are out

thanks

D Rex

I'm a bit ahead of you on this. I had my engine on my motorcycle lift (full bike table type) with 4x4s under the heads. I think I tilted it vertical so i could see, heated the exhaust nuts with my new MAP gas torch. Every nut, or the nut with stud in a few cases, came out without issue. I had no problem with the screws in the shroud. Just use a screwdriver that fits tight in the slot and work them loose. Once you get your shroud off, check for broken blades. I had four. I also found what looked like a alternator belt tooth, and the short part of a hose clamp that is under the screw part.

Fan shroud is part magnesium and gets grody looking. It will oxidize again if cleaned and let to sit. Opinions differ, but I'm going to paint mine, probably in Hammered Silver. If you need to take the fan off, you'll need a a triplesquare bit.

Tom

Restoration Design
Tray: https://www.restoration-design.com/store/product/PP316
Support: https://www.restoration-design.com/store/product/PP317



914rubber is who most people buy from.

I know that stainless steal heat exchangers are available
but...do they make an original version for my 1971?

thanks

Dave

finally found the engine serial number!
was on the top R mid rear area of the case
back where the rear mount of the plenium is located

Dave

heads are off and ready for valve work

Dave

here are the cylinders and pistons
probably will have cylinders honed
and buy new rings

should I buy new pistons?

thanks

Dave

couple of questions for the 1.7 engine:

are the right and left heads identical?

are all the cylinders identical?

is there a good thread on this?

i know that it is important to disassemble and reassemble
all parts in the same place and orientation
and i plan to mark this on all the parts.
is it possible to mistakenly put the heads on the wrong sides
or will they only fit one way?

Dave

More questions

I see when ordering pistons and cylinders etc.
that they are listed as 90mm/93mm

Does this mean that the piston is 90mm
and the cylinder is bored out to 93mm?

I have restored six vehicles
but never performed engine work

Thanks

Dave

took heads down to mechanic
valves ok but will need new guides
so will be sent away for 2-3 weeks

of interest, mechanic's dad used to use this old honer!
they don't use it now

dave

All of the cylinders/pistons are the same. The heads are symmetrical from side to side. Keeping the cylinders with their piston isn't really necessary as things will change once honed. What is critical is piston fit to the bore. You may consider buying a new, big bore set of pistons which will get you closer to 2.0 l, if yours are scuffed or worn.

If I were in your shoes:

Heads rebuilt with new guides, three angle valve job and a light flycut of the sealing surface. I'd consider new exhaust valves. CC the heads so they match. I'd do a little hand work to port match the manifolds, clean up the intake runners, etc..

Have the rods rebuilt and balanced, polish the crank, surface the flywheel, have the crank dynamically balanced with the fan, flywheel and clutch. Pin the clutch so it only goes on one way.

Clean and measure the pistons. Hone the cylinders. Check ring gaps. Balance pistons to within a gram or less.

Check the case to see if it needs a line bore and/or thrust cut. Have oversized bearings in hand before any cutting is done on the case. Deck the case bores so the cylinders have a nice surface to seat against.

That will get you on your way. Plenty more detail to go into once you start on the motor, like blue printing the oil pump, ensuring bearing oiling hole alignment and correcting it and some measuring, deburring the cam, checking cam gear engagement, etc...

Plenty of details, but getting a well balanced bottom end with the correct bearing clearances and a good set of heads is fundamental.

lots of good things to do to an engine
i probably won't do some of them
the heads and cylinders are at shop for rebuild
think i will buy an ultrasonic parts cleaner
thanks for advise
dave

Ultrasonic parts cleaner is the way to go. I have been pleased with the one I got from Amazon, but the advertised volumes are significantly smaller in real life.

i'm thinking about getting the 6L model

also

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0mS1WNll3hs

is it possible to have a 72,000 mile car this perfect
and completely original?

Dave

Did you get an engine yoke yet? I noticed about half say the 2 arm ones are crap, and the other half say they use them with no issues. I just got the one from LJ Air-Cooled Engines and am satisfied.

I did have a problem with the stand, as some (including the Samba guy who is no longer building his yokes) said the newer HF 1 ton stands had the 2 3/8" ID top tube that is required for many of them, but the stands at my local HF are more like 1 15/16".

i went with the more expensive QSC from amazon

currently am waiting for all the parts to OH the heads
also, ordered new rings and piston snap rings
should come in the next few days from Auto Atlanta

more later

Dave

My heads are at the machine shop
I ordered new valve guides from Auto Atlanta
and was sent the oversize intake guides for 1.7 1.8

It turns out that their O.D.'s measure 13.06 mm and are too large
The ones removed from my heads have an O.D. of 12.06 mm
Also, the new guides have a lip at one end which is absent on my original guides

I called AA and they told me that the 13's are the right ones!
that the head would have to be heated up and the guides cooled down
in order for them to be pressed into the heads!!

Is this true, or do they make a 12.06 mm intake valve guide?

What do you all think of this?

Thanks

Dave

I do not know for sure. But I asked google after looking at your heads. So I asked for valve guides for 1.7-1.8 heads and this was what I found.
https://sierramadrecollection.com/products/...AiABEgJJH_D_BwE

yes, those are like the ones I received
But they are also 13.06 mm
The ones that came out of my heads are definitely 12.06 mm

this is the new intake valve guide AA sent me
actually, they sent 6 exhaust VGs and 2 of these intake VGs

surely my old ones are original
am trying to talk to the shop mechanic at AA

thanks

dave

Apparently no one makes the original 12.06 mm intake valve guides
this is because there was a problem with them slipping when engine warmed up

So they went to the 13.06 mm guides with a collar on them
one has to have the heads
reamed out to 13.058 (VG O.D. - 0.002)
heat the heads, cool the guides, and press them in

The collar end goes on the spring side

Thanks

Dave

Strange way do it end result will be the same ,seem to remember running an internal bore mic down the heads and machining the guides in a lathe to correct interference fit then the only reaming required is to suit new valves you are fitting which I hope you are or @ least the exhaust valves .
IMO re-ringing pistons is false economy unless they have ring grooves in spec and pistons that measure up for bore clearance after a hone which even with your lowish mileage will most likely not be great.
Just don't want to see you disappointed with oil burning which is the main issue with worn pistons /bores ok.
For the cost of all this checking and measuring go to 1.8 barrel and piston set with higher CR pistons ,a small increase in power and solves a lot BS later on .
Good luck Dave.

would a 1.7 case, heads and valves
except 1.8 pistons and cylinders?

Dave

This is a Jake Raby quote: “The 2.0 (94 or 96mm) cylinders will fit into the 1.7 or 1.8 crankcase exactly as they do the 2.0!!!! NO MACHINE WORK IS NEEDED AS ALL REGISTERS ARE THE SAME SIZE!”

So as long as the pin location is the same I see no reason it wouldn’t.

Iowa is back...

had several non 914 issues to resolve this winter
(a very mellow Iowa winter BTW)

but now am ready to continue my restoration

is the ultrasonic cleaner best for cleaning engine parts?
what solution is best with this?

also, what sealer is best for the ring that
goes between the cylinder and the case?

glad to be back

Dave