yes, probably
i remember when i was restoring my '63 (actually a '62) VW beatle in the early 2000's
i had subscribed to a couple of VW magazines then

i drained the oil today
no metal or other debris
really looks pretty clean after 40 years

i also boroscoped cylinder # 4
i need to practice at it
and will post some pictures when better

thanks

D Rex

I say this only to get under @Superhawk996 's skin, but the brake regulator was an early ABS system

You might also be interested to read what Eric Shea (the 914 brake expert) has to say about the regulator and whether you need it: https://pmbperformance.com/products/porsche...vin-47429-15752

as was the anti-dive factory front suspension settings.

@bbrock

this is # 2 cylinder
i used DW-40 to spark plug overnight
as it was very tight

what do you all think?

thanks

D Rex

# 4 cylinder
again spark plug with WD-40 overnight
so the fluid in cylinder is the leftover WD that
dripped into the cylinder when i removed the plug

D Rex

You can start and run engine but it is unlikely to be 100%

Boxer engines don’t store well being prone to condensation and rust pitting in the bottom of the cylinders.

Set aside funds for the eventual rebuild

It's a coin toss, she may or may not run decent. But a rebuild is in order at some point. Is the rest of the hulk somewhat road worthy? You just might get some seat time this season

think i need to check and make sure there are no nests
under the engine tin or between the cylinders
if there is...i'll drop the engine and clean everything up
is it possible to remove the engine tin with engine in car?

probably will just fill all the cylinders with WD-40
and let them sit for several weeks
then suck out all the remaining debris

all this while
fixing the 'Hell Hole'
installing the new SS fuel lines
new brakes and line
etc.

seat time this season?
have my doubts

D Rex

Excellent plan - would be well served to ensure oil cooler isn’t gunked up. If it were me I’d put new oil cooler seals in while tin is off and engine is out.

Might as well do the crank seals

And then the pushrod tube seals

Doh

And that’s how the madness goes before you know it you might as well build a freshie



I admire the restraint

here is a picture of how the throttle cable attaches to the plenum
en route to the throttle body
just two nuts on either side of a slot in the plenum

tho i was trying to avoid it
i've decided to drop the engine to facilitate:

hell hole repair
new battery mount installation
SS fuel line installation
and to inspect, clean, and replace parts on the engine

will need to repaint the hell hole
where is a good source for the L63K willow green paint?
(is there a way to create the umlaut u on these posts?)
is this willow green a different color than the 43 paint
for the 914-6 and the later models of the 914?

thanks

D Rex

Good call to drop the engine, it will make everything much easier. As far as I know the original paint was synthol enamel, currently NLA. There is some acrylic enamel around, but I am unsure of matching Willow green

Is the engine lid paint finish in good condition? Take to your locate auto body supply store with the paint code info from the car. They can research the code and mix a pint. Then check it against the lid. Likely single stage urethane now.

No
I did not fall off the earth

My daughter is getting married in two days
So been working on this project

But...
Engine is out
Now for that hell hole work

Drex

Congratulations on your upcoming wedding

now, hell hole is another story

As noted, congrats on the wedding.

And go enjoy that Corvette too! Assume you still have the WW2 jeep???

yep
holding off on the 1941 willys
to do this 914

D Rex

Saw this car on 'Rockford Files'
The episode is 'The Countess'

Looking for a way to raise up the engine and transmission together
Any ideas?
Where are the attach points if I use an engine lift?

D Rex

I use a couple of threaded rods at the front engine bar ends and lift the trans end with a floor jack. Its a slow but safe method.

would you happen to have a pic of this set up?

i'd be nice to set it up on some kind of rotisserie
to work at any position

thanks
d

I dont have a photo of this, but I had understood that the question was how to raise the engine/trans assembly as one unit into the car. Are you wanting to mount it to an engine stand?

Remove the trans, clutch and flywheel. Bolt the yoke on the motor and call your strong neighbor over to lift the engine and slide the yoke into the stand.

I was thinking about putting
the entire engine/tranny
on some sort of rotisserie
This would enable me to
clean up everything with ease
Has anyone ever attempted this?
Or is this just a plain crazy idea?
D rex

The correct yoke on an engine stand should let you rotate the engine 360 degrees. I've never seen the transmission bolted to the engine on a stand. I would have some concerns about the torque it would put on the engine stand bolts.

By itself, the transmission is pretty maneuverable by hand.

Konrad

i don't plan to tear engine apart
just want to clean it up
assemble it on a rotisserie
trial start it
and then reinstall in car

i'd have another engine stand
on the transmission end

D Rex

I would set up the assembly on a sturdy bench to test/run the engine. I have never seen a rotisserie for the engine/trans assembly. Have you seen/heard the engine running?

yes
our accountant brought it to our office
a few times
then the crash in Des Moines, IA
and sat ever since
so, it ran well at that time
i'm confident it will again
it only has 60k miles on it

D Rex

How many years ago was "the crash"

I would pull the spark plugs and get a compression reading of each cylinder first. Often times either an exhaust or intake valve has been open for a time with resulting oxidation on the valve, seat or cylinder wall.

Vette is running well?

here is a typical view of the valves

crash was in 1974
car sat in an old barn during that time

i suppose at the least
i should pull the heads
and have the valves redone
new pistons and rings
thot i could just run it for awhile
and the valves would seat alright
probably wishful thinking

wife and i take a cruise in the vette
almost every night

D Rex

She has sat for 1/2 century, her butt must be quite sore to say the least

It may run, but may not. what do you have to lose

To tear the engine down and do a complete rebuild is best, but .........

Is your intention to get some seat time this year?

How bad is the hell hole?

Do the doors open and close properly?

hell hole is rusty with a few holes
but very bottom is solid

of course the battery tray will have to be replaced

D Rex

Actually, that's not bad at all. Check the suspension ear underneath to be sure.

She's been parked since 1974

Wirewheel the brown away and see what's left. Doesn't look too bad from here.

Or Ospho

Just putting Ospho on the rust isn’t going to tell you if there’s solid metal underneath. Given how easy it is to access the area, there’s no reason to not do it right.

gee they rusted fast didnt they. i mean thats 4 years worth.

but it still looks ok. pretty straightforward to pull her back from the brink.

go for it. great little car. fab color.

where is the suspension ear?

i'll wire brush the hell hole down and re-post picture

thanks

D Rex

Do you know what brand of exhaust you have? I have the same setup on mine.

Neat project. Cool color.

i don't know muffler brand
or if it is even original

still need to match the paint color
to re-paint the hell hole when repaired

D Rex

I am restoring a '75 Palma Green example, original Cali car with minimal rusting. There was some hell hole work I completed and when done I used a brush on oil based enamel available from True Value. The color is reasonably close to Palma and actually still looking for Palma in single stage acrylic enamel.

Any progress with the engine? or too busy cruising in the vette

between my daughter getting married (7/22)
and my partner gone all last week,
i've been too busy and tired to do much the last couple of weeks.
i have most of this coming week off and plan to work on 914 then.

hell hole work 1st (hopefully no surprises)
then new jack support plates welded in

then will turn to the engine

on FI engines
besides new hoses
what are the essential new parts i will need to purchase?

plan new
coil, distributor cap n rotor, oil cooler seals, air intake collars
fuel pump, etc

do i need a new
MPS, fuel pressure regulator and what else?

thanks

D Rex

Dave, you may need some of the FI parts, or none of them, other than gaskets, hoses and filters. It fully depends on the condition and completeness of what you have to start with. The great thing about D-jet is that each component can be tested individually, and the tests are not hard if you understand how each item functions.

Here is an excellent resource for the correct parts needed: https://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/

Your main concerns should probably focus on confirming a functional ECU, MPS, TPS, TS2, the trigger points, fuel pump, relay board, and the engine bay harnesses - FI, Ignition, and Alternator, as well as fuel injectors including the fifth injector (CSV).

Lay out what parts you have, post photos, and lets see where to go from here.

Your FI system is one of the simplest on a 914 ,it should look like this:

thanks Jeff
lots of material to digest
will dive in

Dave

Suspension ear:
Click to view attachment

thanks Krazy!
i'll check it out.

D Rex

You mean Steve gets time off??????

Steve is my partner
he's been gone for the last 8 days to California

Will be working on 914 tomorrow

D Rex

here is the area below the hell hole

also, today i took a piece of metal into
our local body shop to see if they can match the willow green paint

D Rex

Doesn't look that bad from that angle but what does it look like at the jack receiver and longitudinal opposite to that?