I have several parts for sell
but as a newbie
have no clue what to ask for them

What's the best way to research
and find out what a specific part is worth?

Thanks

Drex

Lol,
I’m so lazy and this thread has 16 pages
1st thread….look I bought a project car
Last page, I’m cutting up the chassis and scrapping it out.

We have all done this.
Keep all the good parts for the next one.

That is a really sad picture to see these days...

------

As for part prices, I would check the classified. Or even simpler, google : "Connecting rods for sale 914World" and old adds will pop up.

I typically go cheap so the past move fast. GLWTS!

Believe me, I agonized long and hard over scrapping this 914 parts car

As a WWII Jeep restorer
I have gone to great lengths to save basket cases as they are so rare;
they say there are only about 25,000 - 30,000 left in the world.

All these jeeps were loaded on aircraft carriers and dumped into ocean!!

It was the environmentally conscious thing to do. Providing homes for the fishies and essentially making an artificial reef.

Will be replacing all fuel lines I.N.F.
Is it a good idea to buy the complete set from Tangerine
which includes a fuel pump?
or buy stock SS and hose, bend and cut it to length on my own?

which pump would you recommend, 2 or 3 port?
and where to locate it, up front? I live in Iowa
so, not too hot here

thanks all for advise
trying to avoid dumb Q's
still deciding where I'll put
the lock for the '75 rear door Pinto

Drex

Before there were ready made SS lines, people did bend their own. There are some articles out there on the web. Someone mentioned they bent their own and got the swelled part on the ends done at a hydraulics shop.

When I was looking last year, Pelican were the only place not selling them as a full set. But after I ordered they didn't actually have the engine compartment set, and hinted they may never get them again.

As for fuel pumps, I don't recall reading either being more resistant to vapor lock. I can tell you friends in Iowa back in the day did battle it. The 2 port that is popular is available relatively cheaply. I'm going to use my three port pump as long as it works.

As for the flexible line, there are diagrams that show how long each piece should be and where they go. Use SAE 30R9 rated fuel hose and correct FI hose clamps. 5/16" works for 8mm.

To avoid vapor lock most move the fuel pump and filter to the front, under the fuel tank by the steering rack, but some cured it simply by moving it from the right side to the firewall away from the most intense heat, and tied the long flexible fuel line up top so it didn't lay across the engine. That is what I'm going to do.

Dave, I would mount the fuel pump up front. I lived in Iowa for over 65 years, a lot of that with at least one of my 914's and I can tell you I had fuel pump issues in the original location!

I'm planning to have the fuel tank boiled out
Will this effect the original paint?

I read on one thread that the paint can be duplicated with
Rust-Oleum Flat Black paint code 7776

Drex

I would echo this - I lived in Iowa with a 914 for 10 years and the only real probably I had was involving vapor lock in the summers....

working on the restoration now
fuel tank out (there were no rubber buffers to support tank!!)

here is pic inside tank
is this where the bottom fuel lines enter the tank
and where is the strainer located?

thanks

Drex

Not the best lookin innards, might have her "boiled out". The brass (very fragile) sock is whats protruding. About 3/8" x 3" tall.

Called Tangerine Racing today
They recommend the SS kit with late market 2 way fuel pump
with mounting on the firewall

To test an old fuel pump
Does one simply apply 12v to the terminals?
and see if it spins ok?

Drex

The search function is your friend. The built-in search function on the site is effective but can be a bit challenging to use, but you can also just use google and preface your search string with '914world'.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=95677

And yes, boiling the tank will strip the paint, too, as well as leave it unprotected from rust. You'll want to treat the surface (both inside and out) fairly quickly afterwards to keep it from flash rusting. I think you can use denatured alcohol for that. I used Por15's Metal Prep product.

Skip attempting to boil out the tank and replace with new replacement. I discovered too late that a new tank cost less than what I paid for boiling out and painting several years ago. I also skipped replacing the internal sock filter by installing an external filter in line before new pump installation near the steering rack up front, eliminating the vapor lock problem from original pump location in engine bay.

JamieD

did you use a stock 3 port pump up front?

thanks

dave

I installed a new 2 port pump, believe the brand was Airtex recommended by Clay, don't remember the exact model number. It has worked like a champ for several years.

If your tank is solid, why throw it out? I think I paid ~$40 to have my tank boiled. Even if prices have doubled since then, it's still a lot less than a new tank at ~$200 + shipping.

Just discovered this thread. So glad you took on this project.

I'll be wandering through Iowa this summer. Expect a PM to come by and visit!

Think I will go with boiling out original tank
and have them prep it as well
(yet to find a place to do this around my area)

Also, am planning to go with
The a fuel line package with the 2 port pump
and locate it up front.

Which one is the best?

Thanks

Drex

having a heck of a time removing the hard lines
out of the bottom of the fuel tank

it almost looks like the inside of the flanges
were sodered to the threaded part of the tank
is this right
or, is the fuel line tube just really frozen in there?

thanks

Drex

there was no soder
applied a little heat
and it twisted right out

tanks going to radiator shop in Story City, Iowa tomorrow
yep, its gonna cost about what a new tank would cost
he does a lot of classic car fuel tank restorations out of Des Moines
apparently he will get to it in two weeks

it'll give me time to install the SS lines thru tunnel etc.
and also the pump, filter, up front

is there a diagram showing the exact location of where
best to install these parts?

BTW, will have an extra original fuel tank!

thanks

Drex

what's left of the tank filter

Drex

Typical, after a 1/2 century and being soo fragile the socks get weak

Dave, I used a place in Knoxville a few years ago to do the tank on my '73- not sure they're still around, but it was called Gas Tank Renu and number was 641 8422822. Good luck.

Don't bother replacing the in tank sock filter, I damaged 2 trying to install and decided on external in line filters that can be serviced much more easily and are better filters. .

just got back from Story City
they'll call when it is done

my tank strainer was intact
but was destroyed by the time I extracted it out
i'll probably try to put a new one in
but like the idea of an extra filter inline

took this picture to see angle of bottom fuel lines

picked up my cleaned and treated fuel tank today!

still waiting on my SS fuel lines

Drex

After 1/2 century the sock gets tired, it's very fine brass wire. I would assume new one's are available, but have been able to salvage a couple recently. Will you be running FI or carbs?

from reading past threads on the EGR system
i gather that it is kept in place
but the actual charcoal cannister in not restored
is this right, or is there a way to do this?

thanks
Drex

cabman

will be running FI

dave

while the fuel tank is out
what other things to I need to do
before i reinstall it?

ie
replace the defroster hoses
what else?

thanks

Drex

Hi Dave, EGR and the charcoal filter at different systems, different functions.

Your early car does not have EGR.

Early cars with the metal case charcoal filters are not restorable, but find a 74 and later and those plastic cases are openable, and the charcoal can be replaced.

seems like i read somewhere
where s.o. cut the metal cannister open
replaced the charcoal and rewelded
i think
i may be wrong
dave

Not saying thd metal cans cannot be done, but the plastic cans are simple to replace the carbon. One end easily snaps off and on.

making some progress on 914
waiting for the SS fuel line kit from Tangerine
they assure me that it is on its way

cleaning up engine area while I wait
really not in too bad of shape

here is the L blower hose off and taped shut

what is the lettering on the L front of the engine?

BTW, O lights are great when working in tight spaces

Drex

Find those codes here about 2/3 down the page:

https://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/PLM.htm

Well most of them any way, the list is not 100% complete.

Your marking are code for "1971 1.7L engine".

Been a while since I've caught up on this thread. Nice maint going on!

You'll really like the SS fuel lines. There's a couple of really good how to install threads. Read them first if you can. I did mine solo install, it wasn't bad at all.

received fuel line kit today!
i see the SS ends that goes up front to fuel tank
have a bend in them!
how does this go thru the tunnel?
will it go thru as it is, or,
does one have to straighten these curves out a bit
to allow them passage thru the tiny tunnel?

thanks

Drex

If you have the gas tank out, now is the time to test the windshield defroster fan to see if it works or not. If it doesn't work, take out the heater/defroster box and fix/clean the fan and replace the defroster box's rubber seals with new ones from 914Rubber. Also clean out all the leaves and debris that is sitting in the bottom of the box after 50+ years and plugging up the 2 drain hoses. I was surprised how bad it was in my 1970 Porsche 914, and it had been parked inside of a barn for 25 years when I got it.

The fuel pipes are inserted into the tunnel from below the engine side. You need to twist them around a bit, but I did not have to straighten any of the bends to make them fit. It 's a time consuming job made much easier if someone can help you guides the pipes thru the tunnel from inside the cabin. I had to take off the rear inspection plate between the seats, as well as remove the gear shift lever mechanism when I put the new fuel pipes in my car in order to get enough room to fish the pipes through the center tunnel.

in my experience I found it quite helpful to be able to manipulate the lines by taking the passenger side rear tire off. also be sure to remove the rubber line holders in the frunk..
If nothings been changed in the tunnel you should have no problem succeeding.

I purchased the same kit from Tangerine a couple years ago and could not see how the install could be as easy as everyone says. Well after sitting on the shelf and continuing to run the plastic lines, one day I went for it and easy peasy. If I recall correctly I used only the small tube (carbs with no return) and oriented the bend in the rear section towards the drivers side. A bit of lube also on the new ss line and the grommet helps

Check out Ian Karr's youtube for the install.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IDFsZoI_W3g

@wonkipop



Check out the tinware writing on our friend Drex's '71

painted stencil number code discussed here.
codes have been collected for various model years.


http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...6668&st=120

that particular coding is found on the 70-72 MY engines.
in short 022.6 means
022. = type 4 engine.
model # .6 is a particular model in the type 4 line up (model #6 = 914) thats what .6 means. 022.6 = type 4 engine for a 914. the 4 cylinder 914 was originally going to be a type 4 karmann ghia before everything got rearranged into the VW/porsche idea.
3, 4, 5 etc were used for other type 4 VWs - ie VW 411, sedan fastback or variant.
the M code numbers identify the option code or set up package.
in the case of the 914 engines identify them as north american emissions package.

the reason the code is there is the engines were built at the hanover vw factory and then shipped out to various assembly plants where different model type 4 production lines were. the stamps identify the engine to match the build sheet for a car on the assembly line.

in 73 vw changed the engine code identification number codes and went to three letter numbering system. the codes are still there in the same places on the engine tin but not as complex. usually just three numbers, generally (but with exceptions).

its good that the code is still on the engine after 50 years.
means the tin is all still original and unmeddled with.


as mr. b notes he has an extensive collection of those codes listed on his website.
marvellous research on his part.

a few more of the codes were uncovered a couple of years back during research on the 74 L jet cars that have been added to mr. b's long list. can be found on link above to originality section of this website.

lots of great info!

is there an online source where one
can download diagrams of the various
914 systems where each part is numbered with description?
or
are they only in manuals?

thanks

Drex

Go to AutoAtlanta.com and reference their online catalog. It has all the diagrams and part numbers.

Or download PET (attached)

the 3 sisters gave me several books and manuals
when i bought this 914
this Drake manual for 70-72 has a lot of great diagrams

also, what do you all think about me
pouring Magic Miracle Oil in all the cylinders?
will this help clean them up,
and does this oil eventually seep thru the rings
and down into the oil pan?

i do plan on boroscoping the cylinders 1st

iowa

Do you have any idea the last time she was run?

My conservative side says to open her up and inspect the whole kit/kabodle. Otherwise you will be running on borrowed time