took out interior

couple of Q's

how does one remove the knob for the engine lid latch?
are the seat backs removed 1st?

do the SS fuel lines go thru the big part of the tunnel?

there was a little tag w/a half ring held on by a screw
on the R speaker
was it used to pull the speaker off?
will post picture if needed

thanks

D rex

To answer some of your questions:
1) The knob on the engine lid latch is screwed onto the end of the release cable. Just turn the knob counter-clockwise and it should unscrew.
2) Seats don't have to be removed before unscrewing the knob.
3) The new SS fuel lines go thru the big center tunnel. Take off the front and rear inspection/cover plates, as well as take out the shift lever to get plenty of access to guide the new lines through the tunnel.
4). As to the tag on the right speaker, don't know the answer. My speakers just unscrewed from the backside of the plastic kick panels.

A couple of details.

* the Dring on your early car was for a tether to a portable footrest. Both probably long gone.

* really important. The back pad removes unintuitively. At the top edge by the glass are zoggle cleats on the back pad that slide into u-brackets mounted to the chassis to hold the back pad in place. To remove the back pad, remove the 4 screws at the bottom of the pad near the floor, and pull the bottom edge away from the back firewall and slide the pad downwards, to disengage the zoggle cleats above. If you try to pull the top edge of the pad you will only destroy the cleats and cause damage to the structural fiber shell of the back pad.

danke
alles is klar!
(since we're dealing w/German car's)

here is a picture of the 'D ring'

thanks again for all your help

D rex

Passenger foot board (dog bone) has a small strap that clips to that to keep it from going too far away.

this is by handbrake
what is it?

Drex

That is to hold your seatbelt on 70 and 71 cars when not in use

Bob B

i discovered this plastic part
is also part of the engine lid knob assb

the seat back wouldn't come off w/o it removed

does anyone have a picture of the tool
used to remove it?

Drex

another view

Drex

You might be able to remove it by hand. CCW rotation to remove. Otherwise try snap ring pliers with 90 degree angle pins.

Some cool touches on this 914 of Drex

pretty well figured out what everything is in and around the engine
but don't know what this thing attached to the R front of the engine is for sure

thanks

Drex

Is the hose leading into the oil pressure sender area?

If so...it's a dual pressure sender - one lead to a the idiot light, one to the gauge. This setup will usually cause the light to come on early. The best way is to split off the hose and use the OEM idiot light sender and a single-pole sender for the gauge.

sure are.
very intact car with all its original detail bits and pieces.
enjoying this thread as Deee REX finds more bits and photographs them.

keep on posting the jurassic park selfies.

https://ottumwapost.com/tony-clark-p6180-225.htm

yes, that was Tony's obituary
here he is at one of my birthday parties in his younger days

i found the above certificate under the foot (or is it pedal?) board!!
one can see that it is signed 2/27/74
so he owned this car for 48 years!!

i'm cleaning up the engine (in car) at the moment
and am drawing a diagram of all the engine hoses and wires
i'll post it when completed

is there a basic drawing of just the electrical wiring of just the engine area?

thanks

Drex

this is just a test run
for a drawing i made
as i could not find any
similar drawing on the internet

feel free to critique it

i also have it on PDF
but don't know how
to upload the file

oh, i did figure it out
and, the PDF file is much
clearer than the photo

i still have some refinments
to make, so will update
this post when done

thanks

DrexClick to view attachment

Love the Gruber Porsche + Audi card- both my cars came from that dealership which is long gone... originally on Center Point Road in Cedar Rapids, IA. The owner, Ken Gruber passed away many years ago...

I've got a Gruber key fob but have been looking for YEARS for a Gruber license plate frame with no luck.

like this one!
unfortunately, it was broken when i bought the car

But...it is repairable
and i plan to have it restored and use it

Drex

Yes Dave, that is the one! Guard it with your life!!!

(wish there was a way to make copies)

i've been reading about the brake pressure regulator

is it necessary that they are functioning
or could one just install new brake lines to them
and the brakes would function fine
even if the regulator was bad?

i will be purchasing a new brake line kit
master cylinder etc.

where is the best place to get them?

Drex

From what I understand the regulator is required to lower the braking pressure to the rear wheels. I have used Stoddard for new brake lines, custom bent and work well

i'm just curious as most of my vehicles are old
and do not have this feature.
i've braked hard only on rare occasions
even locking the brakes up, but without serious consequences

on my newer vehicles
it seems when i need to brake hard
which is also rare
i would never get stopped fast enough
to avoid an accident

it seems like a paradox to me

Drex

From what I remember it decreased pressure to the rear brakes as the car is mid-engined, and you didn't want to swap ends if the rear brakes locked up before the fronts. I would think this would be even more obvious with a rear-engined 911 but I remember this being commented on more with the 914.
I have an adjustable one on my '71 but I've had it so long I can't even remember where I got it.

hell hole
some damage but not as bad as i thot it would be

Drex

We have seen much worse, as in non existent metal in the "hole"

How are the long's?

i'll check them out this weekend

D rex

couple of items i discovered in the driver's pouch

D Rex

Very cool and old school to boot. I brought a 1970 Dodge power wagon home several years ago, had one of these mileage calculators and some other goodies including every service record from day 1.

Not many of these time capsule examples around anymore.

Former brake engineer.

Going into the way back Time Machine, it used to be thought that locking up the rear brakes was OK so if you’re talking about 30s or 40s vintage you might not have dealt with proportioning valves. Later into the 50s and early 60s we started to get more cars with properly sized brakes trying to control front/rear bias based on physically different brake sizes and increasing use of proportioning valves as cars migrated to front disc rear drum systems. The problem was lots of these early vintage systems were drum front, drum rear systems. Unfortunately drum brakes are hard to modulate and you still could end up with rear skid pretty easily.

The problem is locked rear brakes result in an unstable vehicle.

So yea, fix the proportioning valve. It definitely serves an important purpose.

While you might find it easy to save a front engine, rear drive, vintage car locking up the rear brakes, you will find it to be way trickier on a mid engine vehicle with a centralized driveline mass (low moment of inertia). 914s “spin” much quicker than any other vehicle you’ve probably experienced.

As to the answer to your paradox, braking distances are largely determined by the friction of the tires. Hard rubber, high mileage tires with poor grip put onto the best braking system in the world will result in poor braking distances.

I’m not saying you’re buying cheap tires or using ancient tires.

What I’m suggesting is lots of modern cars have prioritized fuel economy above all else. This results in low rolling resistance tires on new vehicles. Low rolling resistance is fundamentally at odds with high grip and short stopping distances. It’s all a trade off and many cars / OEM’s are biased toward fuel economy. Just the way the automotive world is. There are vehicles out there with ultra short, sub 100 foot, 60-0 stopping distances. None of them are on tires biased toward fuel economy.

I’m torn on dealer stickers like this.

Sort of cool from a vintage standpoint.

Personally, I’m baffled that people let a dealer place their free advertising (including license plate frames) on a new car that they just paid for. I have yet to encounter a dealer that is my friend and looking out for my best interest

Used to be more commonly accepted but I still see plenty of it on modern cars.

We let them continue this practice, "free advertising" for them.

That is exactly my feelings on the license plate frames advertising the dealer. Remember in the old days some dealers had metal name tags riveted or screwed on to the trunk lids?

Superhawk996
You've convinced me with your excellent braking dissertation!!

I kinda like the dealer stickers
They remind me where my old friend/accountant bought this car
and that my son and I play golf at the National Airport Golf course near Cedar Rapids
Of course, if I have the car repainted, they'll be gone

Just curious though, are points subtracted off in judging contests with these stickers?
Not that I would ever be foolish enough to enter one of these.

Picture is of the right rocker panel
Most, except for the Jack Plate Support, is pretty solid
The left Jack Plate Support is in better condition
I did insert a rod and gently lifted...then used a jack
They both were very solid
I'll probably weld in new replacements anyway
Should I order new ones, or fabricate my own as they will be hidden?

The very bottom of the Hell hole is pretty solid as well
so will probably replace the metal with holes
and install a new battery mount

Thanks for all your 914 advice

D Rex

As a general rule - don’t fabricate what you can easily buy. Your time will be better spent fixing and fabricating the things that aren’t easy to purchase.

Jacking pyramids are readily available and cheap.

I sort of like that dealer sticker if only because it’s from Iowa which has to be pretty rare in the Porsche world.

If you really like it, you might take some really good photos that are perfectly square to it and which the pictures can easily be scaled. Carbone could probably duplicate it if you’re in love with it and want to replace it after paint.

I have no idea how concours would judge it but what really matters is if it makes you smile and honors your buddy.

the L rocker area

once i have cleaned the old jack plate out
i may need to reinforce the rocker area behind it

just curious
is the jack support plate welded at the top?
it looks a little dicey to get at

D Rex

It’s do-able without cutting the rear quarter

See my thread, page 26, post 510
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...5209&st=500

Great pictures Superhawk!
big help
thanks
dave

were these plastic rocker panel covers
with the PORSCHE name
an option or aftermarket item?

thanks

D Rex

Aftermarket for sure.

And they were (are) way too flimsy to use without the real metal ones underneath! Never liked them IMHO...

are there any current magazines
specifically about 914 porsches?

is the 'VW Porsche' magazine still in print?

thanks

D Rex

A couple haave been tried but didn't make it. This site is the best source

You are dating yourself.
VW/Porsche became "European Car" then turned far too glossy & less Hot rod.