several, here is one: Restorers guide to authenticity

https://www.amazon.com/914-6-Porsche-Restor...y/dp/0929758293

Good Luck! -
also a former Iowa resident, born and raised in southern Mn spent a lot of time growing up around Clear Lake and Okaboji, spent 4 years in Davenport in grad school and lived in Red Oak for 3 years before moving to SC 30 years ago. I miss the hunting and fishing but not the snow/cold!.
Looking forward to seeing you get this project and return it to the road.

Phil

Always good to get a 914 back on the road!

And nice to see some decent ones (and some not so decent) on BAT lately... fun to follow them and listen to some of the comments, though nothing beats 914world!

I will be trailering it back
Will probably just use regular tie down straps

What is the best way to attach these to the 914

Thanks

Drex

Hello

Figured out how to add an avatar

It is a smaller version of this picture
of me by my two WW II jeeps

Haven't heard about the 914 yet
hope to in the near future

Will keep you updated

Drex

Well, well Drex. PM sent.

We actually know each other from "way" back. Hope you can get the car. I'm sure you can bring it back to life!

We're making progress in buying the 914!
Judge to make decision in the near future.

BTW
Is there a good article or You Tube video
on converting a FI to Carb?

Thanks

Drex

Oh boy Dave, you opened up a can of worms there!! I have Webers on both my 914's though there is a WIDE difference of opinion here about FI and carbs.

Do a search here and you should find many threads on the subject.

If I was doing it over I'd consider one of the new kits that does FI with throttle bodies that give the look of carbs with the advantage of FI...

Good luck!!!

1st book

2nd book

3rd book

If you are new to aircooled you might also benefit from some VW books on the type 4.
Also, “how to keep your vw alive” is sort of mandatory old school reading, humor added.

If you have a six, lean on the /6 aircooled books on pelican parts.

Also, fir your adventure there are many vendors in the member-vendors forum.
You can buy almost 85% of the parts you need from these vendors.
The rest of the things you might need is why we all have at least two 914s

ya don't do it. The cam is designed for FI. Unless you split the case and change out the cam you will be challenged attempting to run lean enough at idle and low RPM's and rich enough at Rev to keep from dropping valve seats from combustion heat. This is not a Beetle designed to run on a single flush of the toilet. Some have had limited success but I would advise against it.

I'd like to leave original i.e FI
are parts readily available if i went this route?
Drex

If the car will need extensive work, think about making a hot rod. There are so many options. Suby power or LS with Boxster trans. If it’s never going to be a perfect show car again, then open your mind to make it your own creation.

thanks for the book titles

if it comes with FI
I'll probably leave it so
and hope it works okay

have been busy reading
all the technical articles

here's a picture of my 911 with my dad circa

Yes. Everything is available.

Good News!
(Not sure my wife thinks so)
but the judge approved my offer!

Plan to pick up the 914 this coming Sunday
We received 1/4" of ice last night
and the temperature was about 5 F this am
but Sunday is supposed to be 51 F and nice.

Will have to make 2 trips as a parts car
come with it.

I've read the threads on endoscopes
to inspect the cylinders.
Seems the consensus is to buy
a cheap unit that attaches to one's cell phone.
But this wouldn't be able to see the valves, or would it?

Thanks for all your help
Will post pictures I.N.F.

Drex

Congrats Dave- will be watching the progress.

Shoulda kept the 911!!!

Picked up 914 yesterday
Made it home okay

Serial Number 4712902617

Serial Number of parts car is 4712915293

More pics later

Drex

In garage
the rear end sits very low to the ground
is this due to deflated shocks?

Drex

Did I mention that car is Willow.

Sagging rear end pretty common- weak rear springs. Easily fixed- add it to the list!

Don't buy KYB shocks!

Love the color! Keep us posted on the progress.

Leave tomorrow morning
to pickup the parts car

Plan to completely tear it apart for parts
and sell the ones I don't need

Here is a picture of it
Other than the engine
what are the major things
worth saving?

Again, appreciate all your expertise

Drex

Might be able to save the gas tank and some of the suspension pieces, and the wheels/tires to use at some point to help move the chassis if re-doing the wheels you're going to actually use.
Doubt much more as that looks like it is about to fold in half...

lots of stuff to take out, the rear glass and the front windshield, suspension parts,
brake calipers a-arms and rear control arms usually worth saving can be cleaned up and re-powder coated and made new, interior if the back pad foam is in good condition it can be recovered, they dont make that foam anymore. maybe the headlight buckets, rear trunk lid hood lid, dash frame interior , gauge cluster, etc etc

Ran into a little glitch this morning...
My F350 broke down heading down to the car!!

Had to leave my truck and trailer at a Ford Dealership
and bring a loner car home!

F350 symptoms
Sudden loss of power
Check engine light on
Idle terrible
Sounds like it is running on 2 or 3 cylinders

If I shut engine off
It restarts fine and runs fine for a few seconds

Any ideas?

Any rate
Hopefully they will fix my truck
and i'll drive back, pickup truck n trailer
and then pickup car

Drex

Well
an exhaust temperature sensor
replacement did no good to fix my F350

Now their replacing the electronics
that attach to the valve cover gasket!

Supposed to be done Monday afternoon
so am planning to pick up parts car
Wednesday

Drex

It doesn't stop, being in the world of 914's adds to the confusion, but it's often fun

Finally got my F350 fixed
Required two valve cover gaskets being replaced

Houston....we have a problem!!!!!
with the parts car that is

Had a heck of a time getting it off the trailer
being's the bottom had dropped out
....but with jacks and two by fours and my
trusty winch...we got it off and into my garage

Drex

That’ll buff right out!

No it won't, don't get the poor guys hopes up too much

Best of luck with the project Dave, love the Willow Green…. Liking those WWII Jeeps as well!

Do you all recommend use the
Special tangerine racing plate
to remove the engine?

or is there an easier way
which doesn't cost $135?

Thanks

Drex

There is, but I'm willing to bet that your next thought after the engine and transmission rolls off the jack and on to you or your friend isn't going to be "I'm still glad I saved that $135."

There are two thoughts on dropping the engine. One is to disconnect all but the last four bolts, jack it up high, secure with jack stands, add a 4x4 or 6x6 to the top of your jack (or the Tangerine plate), remove last four bolts then very carefully wiggle and lower the engine/transaxle.

The other way is to disconnect everything but the last four bolts, take the rear wheels off, drop the car down low until the engine is on a furniture dolly (small size, $10 at Harbor freight), take out the last four bolts, then raise the car. Put blocks in appropriate places so the chassis will not be allowed to drop too far. Two floor jacks and a buddy are helpful.

Both require you to check clearance of multiple parts multiple times. I seem to recall the injectors are one of them.

I have only used the second method. Like many mechanical things, the first time is the hardest. Next time will probably take 1/4th the time.

Note: if you are using a Quickjack hydraulic device, it will not lift a car from the extreme down (wheels off) position, even a relatively light 914 without engine and transaxle without some help from a jack.

There is a great 914 engine removal checklist somewhere out there on the internets was was extremely helpful for this first timer. Take lots of pics and sketch out and label the vacuum and fuel lines, and electrical connections. There are diagrams out there for the first two.

Good luck! Let us know how it goes!

Best $135 I ever spent and I’ve dropped the engine lots of times without one. Once you have one you don’t regret it. They always sell quickly on the classifieds when listed.

Use as needed - get most of your money back when done with it. Win - win.

have car all jacked up to remove engine
followed the 914OWorld technical article
to prepare this to be done.

car kinda looks like the sinking titanic!

i did order the tangerine plate tool
i think i could have done it with the floor jack
and built up blocks on both sides of the engine

while i wait for the tool to arrive
i'll continue to remove parts in the front trunk area

Drex

You may consider cutting the car in half and working from there. Nothing connecting the front and rear can be salvageable anyway

I’d be in for that frunk floor if you don’t need it and it’s in salvageable condition.

Thanks,
Sean

i'm having a little trouble figuring out how to
disconnect the shifting linkage just in front of the engine

the how article shows a later model 914

Drex

i found this picture at:

https://zyyz.com/motorsport/project_914_02_24.htm

thank you for whoever posted it
the credit is your's, not mine

i think it illustrates the shift linkage that is in my parts car
that i'm taking apart

i'm just not sure how to go about it
it needs to be removed before I drop the engine

where does the other end of the short piece go that's at the very bottom go?

anxiously awaiting my tangerine plate tool

thanks for any input

Drex

Figured out shift linkage removal
Was pretty simple

Haven't tackled the gear shift lever linkage yet

The gear shift linkage can stay in the car until the engine is out. It’s a lot easier to remove once the engine is out. And, if it’s in good working order, no need to risk dislodging the clutch tube by pulling it out.

Krazy
i'm not quite following you on this

are you saying that i could have detached
the linkage at the firewall and then lowered the engine?

i'm waiting for the lift plate and the M8 triple square bit

Drex

Tell you what, let me take a look at mine when I get home so I don't tell you wrong.

Yes, my shift rod is still in the car. Click to view attachment

Sorry. Sideways

There is another way to drop the drivetrain that is safe, a bit slower than the Tangerine plate. 2 floor jacks reduce the time needed, and jackstands.

Pull rear wheels, lower the car, locating and resting the drivetrain over a furniture dolly. Chassis is supported on lowered jack stands.
Unbolt the front engine bar (2 bolts), and two rear trans supports (4 bolts)
Use 2 all-thread rods about 18 in long, with washers/wing nuts, one at each front engine bar attachment point.
DISCONNECT THE TRANNY GROUND STRAP
Raise the chassis off the drivetrain.