The latest...
I removed the support brace from the engine lid and slotted the brackets for easy on/off installation. I also had to trim the ring part of the air cleaner to bring the air cleaner down just a tad. It all fits nicely when I close the lid.

In the engine compartment I added a wide mesh steel grate over the exhaust ports...not really necessary, but to me it looks more finished. Also re-installed all the headight stuff.

The steel bumpers were off my 74, so I went ahead and welded all the holes for the bumper tits. I also cut the front bumper and installed a grate....it will do for now, I'm not sure what my final product will look like once the car is painted.

it'll look swell. that's one slick carb throttle linkage.

k

Well, the saga continues...
Brakes are all bled and hard as a rock..had to swap out one of the calipers because it had a pinhole in the piston boot.

I'm very close to starting the engine for the first time. I went ahead and added two mechanical gauges to the engine (water and oil) since my Ghetty dash gauges are getting a v-8 tuneup from Mark914.

The motor cranked for the first time yesterday. Fuel pump isn't turning on so I have to chase that issue down and I've got to figure out how to at least static time the engine...you can't see the timing marks. I've heard there is a trick to adding a hole in the trunk somewhere above the tranny inspection hole and being able to find TDC from there.

There is something very un-natural about adding coolant in the engine bay of a 914...just as wierd to see you have a water dripping from your Porsche.. Easily fixed, but still very wierd!!

The previous owner of my project car is/was a bit crafty. After chasing down the wires trying to see why the fuel pump was powering up, I discovered where the PO had installed a hidden sswitch under the dash that breaks the fuel pump circuit...I hadn't recognized it before becuase the switch part hadn't been installed yet...the wire had been cut and connectors had been added.

It lives....after some small diversions, the 305 V-8 roared to life for the first time. The first thought that came to me was "OH MY...., What have I created?" This should be a kick to drive.

Timing: I have to set the timing and I'm stuck. I don't want to just set the timing by ear...no timing marks visible that I can see. Any suggestions? I can figure out when I'm close to TDC via rockers and compression stroke, but that still doesn't help when there are no marks visible. Looking for ideas?

make sure your brakes work - stock or 911 - make sure they work well - good pads, good rotors, no dragging, no air in lines - as you are gonna want that thing to stop. jim

Just pull the drivtrain & time it out of the car! You got the skills & you can figure out the timing marks for next time. A bit of work but heck your used to pulling motors

I agree, don't time it by ear.

If you use a piston stop you can establish perfect TDC and mark it under the car. I've marked the balancer (on the bottom) and the flywheel via the hole in the bottom of the trans and either works fine. A timing light with an advance dial makes it easier.

It's annoying to time it under the car, but it works.

To make a piston stop you can take the center out of a spark plug and weld in a bolt with the head cut off. Then round the end so it doesn't damage the piston. You can determine the length with the engine close to TDC then check the depth of the piston through the hole. It will get you pretty close.

Basically you want the length to be just long enough to mark a spot on one side of TDC where the engine won't turn any more. Then spin the engine all the way around and mark the other side of TDC. The center between those two marks will be TDC. Just be careful not to slam the piston into the stop, rotate it slowly.

Absolutely. New rotors, bearings, new pads, new fluid, and stainless lines. Brakes have been adjusted and pedal is good and hard. The calipers appear to be in good working order and the piston seals look good...as well as the MC. I figued I'd get it on the road to see how well things work, then decide what upgrades to the braking system will be needed.

Stopping is important

I can't believe I didn't think about making a mark on the flywheel BEFORE I put the engine in. Hopefully I won't have to pull the motor for a while. Jamie...you should hear this thing...unbelievable!

Thanks...I'm pretty sure I follow your line of thinking. Along that line of thinking, I wonder if this would also work.

Connect my cylinder leakage kit up to #1 and find either side of TDC on the compression stroke. Turn engine one way leakage out of carb (watch meter) intake opens. Turn the other direction...leakage out exhaust (watch meter( exhaust valve opens. Make a mark for both sides of TDC as you mentioned. Divide in half=TDC.

Another option: I could probably watch the valves open and close (#1), mark both sides of TDC and divide in half.

What do you think...am I on the right track?

<What do you think...am I on the right track?>

All of our V8 engines are setup differently, and most have been internally modded so one engine is different from all others. That includes timing.


there's another way.
If your engine is pinging you should retard your timing immediately.
If your engine isn't pinging under full throttle, you can add some advance. I do it in very small steps until I hear a little, then retard back one or two degrees. Now I get no ping under full throttle and maximum power for the given engine setup. Once you've completed that step you can look at your mechanical ignition advance curve and see where the ping was in conjunction with the vacuum advance and adjust accordingly to optimize power across most driving situations. Daily driver or lead foot.... =)

Clear as mud, right?

applicable thread...

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...advance++retard

Great read...sounds like I have a lot to bone-up on to get the motor tuned to its powerband. For starters, I need to find and make a mark for TDC that I can see and I do have a variable timing light so I'll be able to see soon enough what is going on.

The car can now be timed from the driver's wheel well.
How:
Using the driver's side heater cable tube which is no longer used in the conversion I bent it up and toward the engine balancer. I then took a white screw ancor and ground the end down so it would fit in the end of the heater tube with the pointed end right next to and in front of the balancer. I then found TDC and placed some white paint at the end of my new timing pointer representing when the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke. Now, using my adjustable timing, I can dial in a curve and point on the underside of the driver's fender well and time the engine. Actually works pretty good.

Went ahead and adjusted initial timing without vaccumm advance to 9 degrees at 850 rpm. The engine actually is running and starting pretty good.

This weekend, I also stripped the side rockers and the front valance, did any body work necessary and primed them...went ahead and fitted the front spoiler to make sure all fit correctly...I had updated from 75 bumpers.

Here's a quetion: When the motor gets to about 185 the two fans automatically come on. Instead of having both of them come on at 185, what about having just one come on at 185 and place a second sender in the radiator that activates the other fan to only come on say at 200 (or whatever)???? Seems like having both come on at once is overkill.

More progress...
Today, I painted the interior "marathon blue" along with the inside of the doors. I went with single stage on the inside. The outside will be going the same color but base coat, clear coat.

Now I can start putting the interior back in now...acutally looks like its coming together.

Took off the headers because the paint that came on them was not so great and big hunks flaked off when I first started the motor. I thought some paint stripper would take the rest off quickly...I was WRONG. After several coats of stripper only some of it came off. More work than expected.

As soon as I get my gauges back from being re-calibrated...in goes the Ghetty dash.

I've begun installing the interior of the car. And as usual, the targa rear pad was a pita--getting the two 10mm latch bolts and the little screws for hold the bracket plates back on was a joy.

Installed...
rear window, backpad, carpet, seats, seat belts and various interior pieces. I also got started on the Ghetty dash. Gauges should be here right after the holiday (July 4th).

Lots still to do...all that little stuff sure eats-up time. The hardest part for this project is finding all the correct bolts and screws. When I bought this car the interior had already been torn out and many parts missing. I'm finally to a point now that I actually know what parts need to be acquired.

Looking good Mark! I got your air cleaner out yesterday UPS. Not sure if it will make it tommorow or not. With the 4th we will see when it makes it.

Still hoping things will change & you will make the trip for WCR

Doors went back on today...alignment was a piece of cake thanks to the club tip of drilling a small hole in the hinge through the body before pulling the doors.

Interior is just about done. The dash is the big one left and then add a windshield seal.

Looks like I may have to make my own rear valance...really wanted the wide early one found on 70 and 71 cars...of course I'll have to do some alteration to the oem hole and add another.

Momentum is building. the end is in sight.

Some guys double up on the throttle return springs. Just a heads up.


Roger

Hey Roger...Yeah, I'm starting to see the finish line...I want to take it for a . Other than running it in the garage, I don't even know how the trans is going to do or ? I want to make sure she's ship worthy before I paint the outside.

I've got a rear valance that would work. It is on my 74 2.0 car. I'll add the picture I have. You can have it free if you come & take it off It is some aftermarket valance but is in great shape. Not the best picture of it but I can take more if you want.

Huh Come to WCR & get a free Valance. I do really need that to finish my car I guess I will have to go after all

OK

Lookin' good, Mark.

I modified a '72 valance years ago for an ANSA exhaust and am now using it for my V8 conversion. You're almost there!

Let's see...
Installed the rest of interior like the door panels, rear view mirror and restored all the latches, liner, rubbers and chrome on the targa lid. Double springs for the carb per suggestion and started to add some BLING to the engine compartment. Still can't decide what valve covers to put on it that will compliment the new air cleaner.

I'm also toying with the idea of making my lid into a double grill...still not sure. The lid already is quite a bit more flimsy without the center support...can't imagine what it would be like if I altered the other side.

Will be able to pickup the deep rear valance from my friend Jamie, do a lttle customizing to the exhaust pipes and on it will go. Even went to the DMV and took the car off a non-op and made it all legal.

Didn't get too much done over the 4th...and then packing for a week to the "soggy side of nowhere." I'm bummed, I'm so close to start driving this thing...a couple more weeks, I could have taken the beast with me. Oh Well, next year.

Well, took a couple of weeks off and travled up to Port Townsend WA and the WCR in Seattle...great times and good people. Was able to get some great ideas from all the neat cars. After riding in Jamie's Buick 914, I've decided I have too bump up the front brakes immediately! Dang...these little cars haul ass with some more horsepower.

Thanks to Jamie, I brought home the valance on his 74 roller. The holes for the dual exhaust lined up pretty good. I know have to decide whether to close up the hole for just one tip or change the tips to fill the hole. Perhaps dual tips, or one larger oblong tip...not sure at the moment.

Installed the Ghetty dash...tomorrow the gauges go in and if all goes well, I'm taking it around the block for it's maiden voyage.

It's licensed and insured now.....

I kind of like the flatter & wider ovaled pipe. I think it would look pretty cool to fill the holes. Dual pies would probably look cool too. Maybe you could give it that dual tip aftermarket look of the anza? Then maybe people would think it was still a VW motor? Then they would go HOLY $hit that is a fast VW

Installing the ghetty dash took much longer than I had expected. I took the time to lengthen the wires that needed to be using the correct colored wire from an old harness that I had been saving just for this. Added the rest of the wiring, like senders for the oil pressure, water temperature, voltmeter, clock and all the lights in the new gauges. I did not cut any of the wires of the 75 project car's dash so the whole dash is reversible if someone was so inclined.
It turned out looking pretty sharp! I have to give special thanks to Morphenspectra (james) for doing an outstanding job covering the dash in leather and of course, BigMark Deisgn for customizing a few of my gauges (added volt and water temp gauges and changed my v-8 tach to a non-silver bullet). I also took his advice and I wired a "fans on" lamp at the bottom of the tach to let me know when the fans come on.

And finally, I DROVE MY CAR TWO FEET TODAY I couldn't get the transmission into reverse to get out of the garage and it was late and I didn't want to start adjusting the linkage. If my memory serves me correctly, I should be able to adjust the shifter my moving it...I'll have to look up which way.

Yes just pull the cover & loosen the one bolt. If it isn't quite getting reverse you'll want to hold the shifter itself in place. Then slide the linkage itself back 1/4-1/2 inch. Start at a 1/4 & see if it's enough. Sounds like you maiden voyage will come tommorow!!!!!

Can't wait to hear about it. Make sure you set up your camera so you can see you face. Be a sweet angle for your first drive The smile you get is one to remember

It's official...the 75 is off its rollers. I actually was able to drive it around the block a few times today. All I can say is "holy sh*@T" I am not driving this thing out of my neighborhood until I beef up the front brakes. This is going to be a fun ride.

On another note, I was suprised when I parked my 75 next to the 74, the 74 sat lower to the ground by about an inch both front and back...I expected quite the opposite and the 75 has lower profile tires (60's compared to the 65s on the 74).

Next step, build a GT grill...I think. Have to search the site for some "how to" write-ups.

Absolutely sweeeeeeeet!

Defiantely beef them up. Also you need to go to way lower profile tires. 205/45's are the stuff man. CONGRATS on being roadworthy! well sorta

Jamie...are you tired of those rims yet...I'm patient.

great job!

Great looking car! I love the interior and would like to see the differences in both of our cars. You rode in Jaime's, how much more power does yours have?


Michael

Although I have not ridden in Mark's I will go out on a limb & say his is faster! I am pushing low 200's I think. I would think a crate 350 puts out more than that easy . I can guarantee it is quicker right this second. I blew a head gasket I think. Hopefully that is all? I should know tommorow it's in the shop

What did you blow? This is a family station. Let's watch the language.

Thanks Michael. It's going to be about 500 miles before I can really get on it. The motor is crate new. The motor has a few goodies inside and is setup to be a high reving motor with the torque curve devolping at a higher rpm. I'm anxious to take it to the truck scales to weigh it against my stock 2ltr. Should be interesting.

You need to be more careful! You were riding in my car when it blew If any of the sicko's get ahold of this we'll have another 30 replies lickity split
Think man! Think

So to clarify! My engine I believe blew a head gasket. I'm hoping that is the extent of the damage

Now I know why GT grills are so expensive...they're a lot of work to put together. After looking at Eric Shea's thread, Pelican's, and a few examples of others who bought or are making them, I said to myself "I can do that!"

I tried to incorporate the ideas that I liked and went off on my own to make my own version of the GT grill. Even though they all look similar from 3' they're not...look close.

Here's my almost finished product. It still needs painting and trim beads on both grills. The grills are not attached yet...
I'll post the painted version tomorrow...hopefully.
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Here is the frame with rounded corners...hopefully to reduce stress cracks.
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To secure the back on the second grill, I welded in a 1" X 18" strip on the underside of the grill and made tabs on the grill by flattening a few areas. The tabs slide into the space between the braces and the strip that I made. No fasterners are needed. The front is secured by the pins of the first grill and a couple of the pins going from the top and side.
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You're looking at the small lip welded on the underside.
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Mark,

Great install and progress thread.

Some day at a future WCR , you me and Jamie will lead the pack.

Thanks Tony! Sounds good...that would be fun. Hopefully, next time I'll have more time to pick your brain....your'e car is so dialed-in. It gives Jamie and I something to shoot for.

Back to our regular scheduled program...
Added some Camp914 bling to the cabin today...Craig's replacement seat handles. If have your seats out...do yourself a favor and pickup a set of these from Craig. You won't regret it.

Also in the mail today from Craig, came the beading I needed to assemble my GT grill...ony available at Camp914. All in all, the grill came out pretty decent. Next time, should be a lot easier.
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The final product....

So..... The Alaskan takes his snowmobile to the mechanic........
Mechanic: Whats wrong?
Alaskan: I think I blew a seal.
Mechanic: I don't want to hear about your personal problems. Whats wrong with the snomobile?

Thank you ladies and germs... We'll be droppin bombs here all weak.


On Topic: Nice build!

Thanks to Nick, his almost new BMW front calipers arrived yesterday. I added a 19mm MC along with some Porterfield pads to go with them. It took a lot of bleeding to get all the air out of the system, but at last...a hard firm peddle. And...they stop great, you would never know the car is carying the extra weight.
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Had to drill out 1/2 of the floor pan welded nuts that hold the bottom part of the rockers on. Installed new t-nuts and checked the rockers for fitment.

Finally had a chance to open it up a bit today...very nice.
Next....install a Holley blue electric fuel pump and regulator

It's starting to look like a car!

"Added some Camp914 bling to the cabin today...Craig's replacement seat handles. If have your seats out...do yourself a favor and pickup a set of these from Craig. "




hmm...you must have hex'ed me...Guess what broke on MY car today when I was out for a drive!!!

Ok..off to Camp 914... ok..Craig's sold another set!

A little more progress...
I took...no, "I drove the car" down to the muffler shop today and had quad exhaust added to the turbo mufflers to fill the valance exhaust holes of the valance that I picked up from Jamie Rust. It turned out really good.
Here's a picture before a valance (used a 71 deep valance), single outlet, then dual.
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Just for fun...let's hear it roar to life! mp3

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After the muffler shop, drove it down to this high tech alignment shop we have in town and they got the car all dialed-in. They also gave the front end a clean bill of health afterwards. The drive home was great...smooth and quite...no more clunk. At least I didn't hear it anymore?

Sounds good Mark! Dual tips fill it perfectly. Wish I was close by so we could race. Of course my car would need to be working right