QUOTE(John Jentz @ Feb 12 2012, 01:16 PM)
I have a harness I need to install in my car, can you expand on what you did to pull yours?
The car I pulled mine from was no problem. I just cut the rubber sleeve in the engine bay.
The install will go something like this. It is helpful to have a buddy to help feed the wire in the engine bay.
1st.
Disconnect your battery!Your backpad, center console & any carpet on the center tunnel all need to be removed. You will be running wire down the tunnel with the rest of the wiring. Your car also need to be up in the air so you have access to the the main wiring. This job is easier if the motor is out but that isn't necessary. My motor was in my LE when I did the install.
2nd. Check your defrost harness for any cracks or problems. Lay it out in the interior along the center tunnel to see where it should go. Clip the end with the black plug about an inch wide. Clip the wires 1 ft below & put the clipped end by your battery. You will reattach it once you have routed your wires through.
3rd. Get under your car. Pull the rubber sleeve out of the firewall & the front of the engine shelf. There is a lip to both sides that hold it in place. Get it loose & pull the firewall (bottom end) & roll it back on itself an inch or so. This will clear the hole for you to be bale to feed your wire through to the engine bay.
4th. Pull the little square metal cover at the firewall on the center tunnel. Feed the end of the wiring you clipped through firewall following the main wiring. Once in the engine have your buddy pull through the wiring until it branches. The wiring loom splits as the wires go up to the glass. Feed through what you need to reach the relay board. Remember you still have 1 ft of wire to reattach. So take that into account.
5th. With your wire in the engine bay you need to snake it through with the main wiring through that foot long rubber sleeve. This is the biggest PITA of the project. It is fairly easy to get it started in the bottom. Feeding it through the top is not easy. You can use a coat hanger or something similar. Problem is it is so tight you may scrape your main wiring in there. Not a good idea. In the end I made one cut in the top of the rubber sleeve. Once I made that cut feeding it through became much easier. Once that is through the sleeve. Just push both ends of the sleeve back into their respective holes. Reattach your plug that connects to the relay board.
6th. Take the 2 screws holding the relay board out so you can move it. You need to connect the ground below the relay board. There is the one bolt below with a 10mm nut on it. Attach that & reinstall your relay board. You can plug the defrost into it if you are ready.
7th. Get back inside your car. Route the wiring right next to the main wiring running through the center of your car. Follow it all the way to the fuse box/board. Take the 2 screws holding your fuse box in place. Connect your ground the to bolt on the wall. Another 10mm nut sits on it. I plugged mine to the fuse box where it was plugged into the car I pulled it from. This was to the 5th spot from the right. This is to the row closest to the wall between you & the gas tank. Reinstall the fuse box.
8th. The wiring to your actual switch which branches off next to the wires you just connected to the fuse box. You will route from your fusebox under the dash over next to your radio. The defrost switch sits between your radio & your cigarette lighter. The hole is already in the metal part of the dash. Typically the basket weave will be covering it. You just need to open the hole in the basket weave & install your switch.
Sorry that is really long winded. I guess I should have taken pictures as I went through the process. Didn't think of doing that though