I knew it wouldn't be long. Jamie with one 914? I don't think so.

Good find!

How do you tell if a '74 is an LE? I have a parts car that is a '74 2.0 with center console, lettering on the side, no vinyl on the sail panels, factory sway bars, etc. It is lime green...The PO rear-ended a car, but besides some front end damage it is really straight...and it really, truly has absolutely no rust.

I'll feel guilty if I've been swiping parts off rare car to keep my '75 on the road...

Couple easy things to check. Does it have sway bars? If you can feel under the rear quarter where the lower vinyl piece would go can you feel holes. If it is an LE there are no holes. So if you can feel where they filled the holes that is an indication. Also the LE has 2 extra metal pieces up front that attatch to the front LE valance. These sit close to the front of the suspension behind the front bumper. Check out Jeff's link http://members.rennlist.com/914_canam/

Congratulations. That is another early one. Funny thing the earliest ones are all creamsicles. Original engine should be near GA012400 but may be in the 12300's. What is the body #?

Engine is GA 00562
Chassis #749551
Vin#4742914409

I hope the enigne is th original. You have me worried now. Guess I won't know until the COA comes in the mail. Here are some pics of the rust around the battery tray. Also I pulled the rocker on one side. Lots of orange underneath
Also a pic of the rust in the rear trunk (not to bad)

Congrats again Jamie.... You have a lot more to work with than mine...

BTW, your Vin#4742914409, mine is 4742914391, just 18 numbers apart....

-- Rob

Very cool Rob! Hey here are a few pics of my front spoiler. I don't think it is a OE one but got replaced at some point. Aren't there supposed to be some numbers on the backside?

Jamie, Nice find. Congrats.
Hey I have a drivers side front fender. Removed the correct way.
Call me if you need one.
CCLINFENDERBENDER

I'll let you know Craig. Not sure if I am better of replacing the whole thing or having the current on fixed. Wish I had a body guy close I knew? Anybody know of one close to Corvallis that is reasonable???

Sorry Not. The OE piece was resin injected and has destictive ridges (2 per side)
where it seems they shot into the mold.
Ill see If I can find a pic.

Is Visalia, CA close ? Jamie, the fender doesn't look that bad...it's amazing what you can straighten with a body hammer and body anvil.

I have literally never used a body hammer & Anvil. I'd hate to use this car as my practice . It is so tight up in there too I can't imagine it would be easy.

Its really not that hard. The same fender on our newest car looked like that and it straightened pretty well with some ball peen hammers. It is pretty close now. The question is where to go if you get really close, shrinking disk and really nice or a little bit of filler?

There isn't any harm in trying it; Its only metal. Worst case you can replace the fender or have professional try after you if you can't get it done to your satisfaction.

What is the best way to get the filler on there out so I can really see the damage?

Map gas it just until it starts to form small bubbles then pop it off with a screwdriver. the heat will relase it and if it cools it won't reattatch but it won't break free from the surrounding bondo as easily as it will when still hot. Oh and do'nt catch it when it falls

Jamie...remember this fender, you should...you helped me load this pile of parts. Using body hammers and anvil ($20 kit from harbor freight) I was able to completely reform the fender with practically no plastic filler. Yours doesn't look that bad at all from the pics.Click to view attachment After Click to view attachment

Ohhhhhtay! I'll go to harbor freight tommorow & get the body anvil & hammers. I surely can't do any worse than a clutz like you Mark . Okay that is a joke I just couldn't resist

Seriously I will give the body work a try. I guess if I screw it up I can always replace the whole dang piece which I considered anyway. So I will see what I can do. I guess I'll have to start an official Creamsicle Restoration thread

What is map gas & where do i find it?

[quote name='JRust' date='Oct 17 2008, 07:00 PM' post='1092327']
--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(scotty b @ Oct 16 2008, 07:20 PM) </div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->
Map gas it just until it starts to form small bubbles then pop it off with a screwdriver. the heat will relase it and if it cools it won't reattatch but it won't break free from the surrounding bondo as easily as it will when still hot. Oh and do'nt catch it when it falls
[/quote]

What is map gas & where do i find it?
[/quote]

Methylacetylene propadiene burns higher temp then propane, but for this use propane would be perfectly fine, the extra heat from Mapp isn't necessary. Lowes, HomeDepot etc sell them in small cans I would strongly recommend one of the torch heads with an ignitor button on it too.

Okay I went to home depot & got the Mapps just like in the photo above. It works great for loosening everything up. Got it bubbling then used a screwdriver to scrap the filler off. IT was very thick in places. I would say 3/8 of an inch in spot . I also went to harbor freight yesterday for the body hammer & tools. I forgot to take pics before I went to work on it. IT went pretty well & I can see I should be able to get things pretty close. I will definately need finish work by a pro but mostly because of the weld mixed in. I'm not sure how but it looks like it cracked in a long line? Was cut? Anyway there is some weld from just above the tire forward. Then there is a break with some brass weld(?) just above the front turn signal.

Anyone have a trick for getting the top of the fender hammered up some. I can't seem to get up there with the hammer or the small anvils. Also the area below the turn signal is bent down a bit. I don't see how to get up there without some long extension to hammer.

I also took it for a 50 mile ride this morning. Drives pretty good but could use a tuneup. Clutch felt good as did the shift linkage. Going to treat the rust in the rear trunk tonight

That kinda sucks. It has quite obviously had a clip spliced in ( poorly ) previously. As for pushing the area above the t.s. up if you have access to a welder it would be easiest to cut a slice in it, following the brass that has been globbed in there, then push the 2 sides up seperately and re-weld it. The brass will need to be completely removed to mig weld it back together. If you can or know someone that can oxy acetylene brass it could be re-welded with brass.

If you don't want to cut and re-weld you will just need to find some way to get in there und knock it into shape.

I don't think it had a spliced section. I really think something cause the cut where they welded. Not sure how but even the weld does not go from the bottom you see all the way to the fron where the brass is. There is a couple inches with no weld between the bottom weld & where the top brass is. I've got a good body guy in mind. He helped me with the restoration of my 73 8 years ago. Not sure if he is still around. I've got to see monday if he is where he was then. I will get this fixed & soon.

I knew you could do it! Great step in the right direction. Some body guys use a "slidehammer" to pull out places where you can't get behind. You can make one real cheap. Since you will be having a body guy do the finish work anyway, he will have a slide hammer. When he is done all you will have at most is just a very thin coat of plastic filler...like an 1/8th of an inch.
Lookin good!

Ah I couldn't tell there were spots with no weld. In that case it was probably hit and to pull it out it was just cut, pulled back closely by hand then re-welded. The brass may have been used to fill in some deep depressions or possibly to fill in where there was a gap. Back to the issue at hand. If you can get hold of a welder, get the panel as close as possible then you could cut out some of the nastier sections and make some patches to clean it up if you so desire.

Okay so I got the fender cutout & replaced thanks to the seattle Work party. Jeff Hines is the man. Between him & Dan Root they got the fender on & very nice. We decided it would be better to replace the area rather than fix it as it was just to hammered. Although we were able to keep all the factory welds in place. It turned out great! I'll need a small amount of filler but just a very small amount. Here are some pics (thanks to John Bovey as I forgot my dang camera).

So what's the trick to using a hammer and a body anvil? There must be a "how to" article here somewhere???

Eric Read

As you can see in the pics the only thing I did was cut. I am the WRONG guy to give advice on hammer & dolly. Although I did pound on the fender before replacing the section. Just to much crappy weld there to start with & damage. I can see how using the hammer & dolly in most situations you can get it close enough. Then a little filler to smooth things out. I am sure some of the pro's will chime in with good advice

Yes but , in your case some else hadn't worked the heck out of yet, only initial damage. good job.

Jamies fender had been heated , hammered ,ground,welded ,brazed, I tried to pound it around , but the metal was already worked to much and it was splitting and tearing holes (thin from grinding).A Lot of the feature in the front section was hammered flat already. With the time we had , this was going to provide the best results and still has the factory attachment points.
and an audience.

here is some good hammer info , cheap;
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=67022

Great job Jeff and Jamie...

Nice job. Jamie, where are you safety glasses?

Here is a pic of my COA from Porsche! Very cool

Matches up with all the info I have so YES!

I haven't done anything to my car lately. I have been getting some parts together. I finally just found an uncracked dash. I just got my new carpet. Thanks to Morph (James & Heidi) along with a new center cushion. I also found a nice set of seats. I also got a new speedometer with everything working . Basically I have everything I need to have a concours stock interior .

Now I get to get back to the body. I'll be pulling the drivetrain over thanksgiving weekend. I need to replace my battery tray. Below is good thank goodness. The motor is pretty solid but leaking. Pretty sure the typical pushrod seals. I'll be prepping the tin for paint. This I will do myself. The rest of the paint is going somewhere to get done. Not sure where yet? Looking for someone local who will give me a nice paint job cheap . Well hoping to find someone reasonable anyway.

Oh I also need to repair the rear trunk hinge. Anyway making some progress while not actually doing alot to my car

One more thing. Has anyone had the negative porsche side decal painted on instead. Would it increase the value as opposed to the common vinyl? Or was this vinyl stock? SO which woul be better? It seems to me the pheonix red would match better if painted with the wheels? Just curious

Talk to mahoney in kelso about the paint. i got his contact info i just did a interior for him.
james

Don't paint it James..it would be non-original, cost a lot more and devalue the car...

Got it! Kind of figured that but thought it would match better. Doesn't seem like the decal matches the phoenix red that well. Maybe the decal was just faded

Just keep going!

Well I haven't found the original engine. I did find one damn close though. My original case was GA012249. I found one that is GA012267. Not sure if that would be better than the GA out of the 73 that is currently in the car . Unless it is the original numbers matching one I can't imagine it making a difference. Do you think the year specific would make it more desirable?

Either way I am going to buy the motor. Always nice to have a backup .

Where did you get that information/certificate about your car from, I would love to get something like that.

*914 Freak* Be Happy!

Porsche has a 1-800 #. I don't remember where I got it. You just need your vin & they will send it out. Takes 4-6 weeks for it to all go thru. Cost like $75 too but well worth it.

I got a big package today in the mail. It is my perfect new dash . I packaged the sucker back up until I could get to it. Still haven't done squat to my car. Right now it is to damn cold in my basement. 30 degrees outside right now

I think I am going to read up on body work. Any good books out for that? I'd like to do the prep work before paint. I'd also like to take shot at painting the pheonix red on the bumpers, Rockers, Valances & wheels.

Hey, I painted the fairing on my BMW this fall. It took me 4 tries and I'm still not happy with it, but I got sick of trying and it's pretty close now.

Anywhooo... I can tell you a couple things not to do, when preping to paint.
For one thing double check the type of sandable primer you use. Don't use lacquer primer with acrylic paint. I actually knew that, I just didn't think they sold lacquer primer at Napa, and apparently I'm too stupid to look. Every day of my life, I live & learn...

Oh well, nothing sandpaper can't fix...

I have a touch up gun that works pretty good for small areas.

Hey Jamie you should talk to Steve Hebert about painting your car. He was the guy driving the vette at the Falling Leaf Tour drive. Steve has painted several 914's. He did the battery tray reapir on my car and also painted a bug for me. He has done alot of work for Craig and is reasonable on his prices. His shop is in Washougal. Talk to Craig. He's got his number.

Okay so after a while of not doing anything I've started taking parts off. Sending to a shop for paint a week from Wednesday. Pulled off bumpers & valances yesterday along with the rockers. Next saturday out comes the drivetrain. Then it is off to get painted. Will be a good 6 weeks at the shop for paint.

Found a local retired guy who does it in his spare time. He works about 2 days a week is all. So he will go slow but at least I can do a pay as you go with him. Nice and reasonable to work with & does great work. He did a lot of Mopar restorations & I got to look at his photo album. Got to see a very nice 69 firebird resto from start to finish.

While it is at the shop I will be pulling engine tin for powdercoating. Still debating keeping the good running 2.0 motor. Someone had replaced the original motor with one out of a 73. I found a 2.0 motor out of a 74 that is only 19 numbers off my original motor. Not sure if it will make much difference value wise as neither is the original. It would at least be year specific .

From what I saw watching the B/J auction I'd say it's a safe bet & am sure it won't hurt $.

Well I didn't make much progress this morninng. I had a 2 hour window that got interupted a few to many times. Still I just need to disconnect the cv's from the tranny flanges. Then I'm ready to drop it. Not going to happen today as I have to head out for my girls bball games. Here are a few pics just so you know I actually started

Finished pulling the drivetrain today. Only a week late . I also took off the rear bumper & drivers rocker. Wish I had a set of rollers to send the car out on. As the wheels need to come off for paint also. I may pick some up this wednesday when I go to pick up my new 73 2.0 . Here are some pics of the soon to be phoenix red parts. Also nice to see all of these parts show the original Pheonix red underneath the black paint.

Also some pics of the phucking rust on the battery tray & below . It actually isn't that bad. No holes going thru & solid even with the screwdriver test. I allready have a replacement battery tray (Thanks Dan Root). I've got to get all my paint codes for my paint guy too.

It's officially gone! Just dropped it off at the paint guys shop. Looks like close to 3 months than 2. Oh well I just want it to be done right. I'll get some more updates as I go by to check on things

Well there were some serious delays. My paint guy got real sick. Ended up in the ICU for close to 2 weeks. My car pretty much sat for 2 months without anything being done. Not a huge deal as I was resigned for a longer wait than usual. Good news is I am going to see it on saturday. I've got to take over some rollers so I can get the tires off the Mahles before paint. I also forgot to take over my new battery tray & the front Valance. I'll be dropping those pieces off & taking some pictures. Finally starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel Although I still have to put it all back together .

Motor is being rebuilt & will be ready. Transmision is being rebuilt at Evil's clinic. I've got ton's of beautiful parts ready to go back on this baby. It may not be a concours winner when I am done but it sure as hell should place .