It is a M&K sport muffler

http://www.mkexhaust.com/products/911s.html

I have one of those for my GT clone too....

I'm looking at those, but I have done it like this a bunch of times. I put a 120 degree fitting on the adapted outlet and run the scavenge line either forward or back to the driver's side, depending upon the thermostat arrangement.

Thanks, guys. How neighborhood friendly are those?

A: "Wow that car sounds great!"
B: "Nice car but it's kinda loud."
C: "If that A-hole from down the road drives past here one more time I'm gonna throw a brick at him."

Keep it up Joe, good to see your making head way with your ‘hobby’ business

I ran the muffler for a short time in the old 3.0 and it sounded great. Not loud at all. It has that low bellow sound, like a tiger.

I have one on the list for my build but in an "R" version. I live non developement so no neigbor issues anyway.

Thanks. The only other 3.2 914 up here I know of has a twin pipe but I think it's a 911 sport muffler - Dansk probably. He may have even made it himself from an old single out banana. It is LOUD - like race track loud.

I'd love to hear your impressions of the M&K when Joe has finished your 3.2

Turns out that this is the same size as the adapters for the Setrab oil coolers. M22x1.5:-12AN Male.


Is this better?

Suscribed. Lot of good info for a novice like me. Thanks.
Bee Jay

X10

If Bee Jay is a novice, I'm just clueless!

Thermostat location and the first line finished.


Now I have to leave for dinner at my mother-in-law's birthday.

Click to view attachment

Thanks for your patience. I'm back from a much-needed vacation.

The fuel pump is in:

I didn't really want to take the engine back out, but it was only bolted in, not hooked up.

The fifteen minutes it took to pull it back out is already saving time elsewhere.

You can see the new supply line on the cooler. The cooler only recently arrived after being modified for a 914, so having the engine out made it much easier to install. The rest of the tin is on and the wiring is all terminated on the transaxle and starter.

Then I moved on to the scavenge line from the thermostat to the tank. Also much easier with the engine out.

I tested the starter today. It worked fine.

Oil coolers go in next.

Excellent, Joe. I'll be watching the install of the Setrabs with interest.

Looks great Joe. Hope you had a great vacation.

I'm ready to go Zoom-A-Zoom Zoom and Poom Poom

Fabrication of the brackets for the oil coolers:

The two brackets for the top of the coolers are now drying after paint. The bottom brackets will have to wait until everything is done and the muffler hanger is on straight because they get secured to the same bolt as the muffler/header/hanger junction.

I will have to weld a strut between that point and the bottom hangers, but it's all got to be finished and squared up before I can make that weld.

The engine is back in. That should be the last installation for the engine.


James chose rear coolers because he didn't want to cut the front of the car. These four holes are the extent of the body modifications for the rear cooler arrangement.

I'll bolt the coolers in tomorrow.

Yesterday was slow, but all the prep work produced some serious results today.

Here goes the oil cooler install and plumbing.

Don't worry, Adel clamps are on the way. Everything will be well secured. I'm just trying to get oil in the thing so I can finish the wiring and try to start it. Once it's running, it'll be down hill from there.

Here we go....

More:

Very nifty, I like it.

nice nice work.

Joe,
May I ask where you buy your oil lines and fittings?

More importantly, may you answer?

I have a commercial account with BAT Inc in Sarasota.

Y'all forgot the big cup-washers on the transmission mounts ...

Very Clean Joe. It is only a guess but with that dual Setrab, I would think that you would get more cooling than if you had only one that was twice the size. I am curious to see what the running temp will be in the middle of summer. That is a much better set up than what I had, thanks for the suggestion. I am beginning to think you know what you are doing

Hmmm. Let me see if I can find some. They're not in the parts box from the owner.

I'm glad you feel that way.

Are those wheels 3piece or 2.

3 piece from Intro Wheels

I know you're just getting everything in to get it up and running, but I'm curious as to how you are controlling the fans. I skipped the oil thermostat altogether with my cooler out back and plan on triggering the fan from an 18 x 1.5 radiator fan switch set to turn on at 85 deg C mounted in the old idiot light switch location on my 3.0. Not sure if the 3.2 has the same idiot light switch location though.

The fans will be started by a relay that is triggered by the fuel pump relay. Basically, the fans will run when the engine is running, but they will only cool oil when it's flowing to be cooled. The oil thermostat will control flow to the coolers.

The plan for the day was to put power on the car and see if I can talk to the TECgt.

Everything went great until I tried to start the engine. It spins like it has no compression. I put a gauge on three of the cylinders and they make 140 psi.

I was able to talk to the ECU and load a base program. The spark plugs are sparking.

I dumped some fuel in the intake manifold and it doesn't even sputter.

I pulled the intake valve covers to make sure the valves aren't too tight. They're not.

Anyway, the TECgt seems to be working fine. When my laptop is hooked up, you can read all the sensor values. If you put vacuum on the MAP sensor, it shows on the laptop instantly. The same with the TPS, etc. It's cool.


However, I'm having some doubts about the internal condition of this engine. Let me sleep on it.

A couple more:

Hey Joe,

The engine was purchased from DC Auto. According to Robert (the owner) the engine was rebuilt in March of 2009 by Bruce Abbott aka East Coast Bruce. I do not know him but I did check around and he seemed competent. According to Robert the engine has about 100 miles on it. After I bought the engine from them I had some sketchy dealing with DC on subsequent purchases. Parts were sent that were not up to par (ie fuel pump and impeller x2) I will be really pissed if there is a problem with that engine.

The compression test seems about right at 140 on a cold engine though. The installation looks great.

Ouch, hope that it doesn't need to be opened up..

Stand by.....I'm doing a leak-down on 1 and 4 in the next hour.

Hey Joe,

Any advantage in the way you are splitting up the coolers on this one versus the set up you did on mine? Seems like they might get air flowing a little more freely this way. I like it.

OK. It's pretty difficult to argue with these numbers.

1 and 4 were both the same and returned very healthy numbers. 94 and 95 over 100.

I'm going to install the gas tank and get some fresh gas.

Better air flow is the reason I went to this arrangement. So, yes.

FWIW my injectors caused 2 days of headache when trying to get my 3.2 going for the first time after it's rebuild and having sat for a year.

It made noise!!!!


No idle yet........

It runs!!!!



Interestingly, the ignition key doesn't shut the engine off. I had to unplug the harness to the computer.

That's probably a back-feed from the fuel pump relay. I'll find it.


F'in A.

Now that we've passed the biggest hurdle in this build, I stopped to make a list of things that have to be done to deliver the car:

Fix the ECU relay wiring (so it shuts off with the key)
Drive shafts
Tranny linkages
Adel clamps on the oil lines
Tie up all the FI and other wiring
Fab a DFU bracket
Wire the oil cooler fans
Fab a muffler hanger
Finish the bottom bracket for the coolers
MAP to intake manifold adapter
Front decklid
Interior
Air cleaner and piping
Install the MAT sensor
TPS bracket
Breather tubing
Breather filter
Main power wire to the ECU
Oxygen sensor module and wiring
Tachometer



Crap. Back to work.

Rawk! Now I wanna hear it.

Me Too. Kick Ass Joe.